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Soldering problens


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  • RMweb Gold

I have been successfully soldering for 40 years most recently with an antes 40w iron.

However I have just bought a cheap silverlne 15w iron which I thought would be better for electronics work.

It has a round pin point tip.

But heres the problem.  The very end of the tip won't melt solder or provide heat. It works about 5mm from the point,  but not actually at the point. So I ended up using the sudde of the bit for soldering which is difficult at best!

I have cleaned the tip and tinned it. 

Is it just a poor design or am I doing something wrong? 

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28 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

I have been successfully soldering for 40 years most recently with an antes 40w iron.

However I have just bought a cheap silverlne 15w iron which I thought would be better for electronics work.

It has a round pin point tip.

But heres the problem.  The very end of the tip won't melt solder or provide heat. It works about 5mm from the point,  but not actually at the point. So I ended up using the sudde of the bit for soldering which is difficult at best!

I have cleaned the tip and tinned it. 

Is it just a poor design or am I doing something wrong? 

I too struggle with a round pointed tip. I have a multi-watt iron I bought while in Taiwan (100v so needs a transformer) that does 20w to 60w. With a pointed tip I get nowhere, but as soon as I put back the 'old' angled flat tip in the same iron I have no problems. I put it down to being a design fault. But, there again, I'm no soldering expert.

 

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  • RMweb Gold

You have two problems, I think. The size of the tip and the wattage of the iron. The small tip needs plenty of heat in it to get both surfaces up to the required temperature to melt the solder and create the join, so you will need more than a 15W iron. I use a 25W iron for all my electronic soldering, especially with a small tip of the type required for surface mount components.

 

I'm not an expert, but I do listen to those who are.

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Mick has it I think.  Wattage rating is an indicator of how fast the tip temp. recovers after losing heat to the solder, flux and workpiece.  I saw a video once of a soldering iron fitted with a thermocouple.  The rate of tip temperature decay is remarkable.

 

John

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Virtually all of silverline products are cheap junk. For electronics, get a small spade bit for your antex. You need heat and speed, not hanging around with an underpowered iron. and get cored solder, lead/tin not the lead free rubbish.

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4 hours ago, ikcdab said:

I have been successfully soldering for 40 years most recently with an antes 40w iron.

However I have just bought a cheap silverlne 15w iron which I thought would be better for electronics work.

It has a round pin point tip.

But heres the problem.  The very end of the tip won't melt solder or provide heat. It works about 5mm from the point,  but not actually at the point. So I ended up using the sudde of the bit for soldering which is difficult at best!

I have cleaned the tip and tinned it. 

Is it just a poor design or am I doing something wrong? 

Buy a quality one not a cheaply made one!!

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  • RMweb Gold

 

The heat loss on a low wattage iron (cheap or not) is caused by the buik of the lump of metal on the end of it in the tip. If you file back the tip to lose some of that bulk then heat recovery is improved.

Better quality irons may have lighter tips, but ultimately you can't argue with physics!

 

Mike.

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Quote

If you file back the tip to lose some of that bulk then heat recovery is improved.

many tips are copper coated with iron to give durability. Filing a tip will not be a good idea, get a tip/tips of the right shape.

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