Jump to content
 

Heljan O gauge split headcode box 37 re-run


philiprporter
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
45 minutes ago, philiprporter said:

I see that Heljan have just announced on their Facebook page a re-run of their original split headcode box class 37 in O gauge. Is this regarded as a decent model as it's an old release and Im struggling to find reviews? Best wishes, Phil 

 

This was announced a while ago - Tower have a photo from Telford on their website.

 

I think the original predated this incarnation of the forum but the centre headcode and recent 37/4 used the same basic body so the same comments apply (see thread below).

 

Cab doors, cab windows, side windows and roof have all been mentioned (it came up in the new class 47 thread yesterday coincidentally). It has sold several versions now so presumably most can live with it.

 

Edit: not trying to be negative - just highlighting what to look for in threads if you are bothered.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Hal Nail
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, philiprporter said:

I see that Heljan have just announced on their Facebook page a re-run of their original split headcode box class 37 in O gauge. Is this regarded as a decent model as it's an old release and Im struggling to find reviews? Best wishes, Phil 

I have one on order but did

debate whether it was better to spend a bit more on the ex JLTRT version.  I had a suspicion when it first came out that they had used the CADs from the then Bachmann 00 model of the time as there seemed to be some common bits that both had got not quite right. According to Tower the new release will have a better undeframe than the first release which was a bit detail light. The nose side grilles are not great but PHD do them and the roof fan panel grille can be replaced by an etch brass one from Shawplan. That aside it looks ok, As my user name suggests I am a big class 37 fan so a bit picky on some of the details but most people will be happy with it out of the box.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The model from the first run is ok, I got the green small yellow ends but for me it lacked something I can’t quite put my finger on it. I did have to renew a split cog virtually straight away. When I saw they were re running it I was going to get a br blue one but for the money I may just respray my green model. If you’re a 37 fan have a good look at it before you buy I would say as the JLTRT is a more accurate shape, but then you have to build it and will set you back best part of £900 to wheel and motor it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

 

This was announced a while ago - Tower have a photo from Telford on their website.

 

I think the original predated this incarnation of the forum but the centre headcode and recent 37/4 used the same basic body so the same comments apply (see thread below).

 

Cab doors, cab windows, side windows and roof have all been mentioned (it came up in the new class 47 thread yesterday coincidentally). It has sold several versions now so presumably most can live with it.

 

Edit: not trying to be negative - just highlighting what to look for in threads if you are bothered.

 

 

 

 


I can’t live with it :diablo_mini:

Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, blueeighties said:

Just out of interest for all of the detail doom mongers......BR blue and large logo 37116 have already sold out on pre orders from Heljan. They can't be that bad then! :D

It is when you see it, certain liveries make the issue more obvious, but it they are all the same then it becomes less of a problem I guess.

 

It wouldn't look good if the 37/4 had the issue corrected when it stood next to a 37/0 - but accept the fault and perpetuate it and you're onto a winner.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
3 hours ago, blueeighties said:

Just out of interest for all of the detail doom mongers......BR blue and large logo 37116 have already sold out on pre orders from Heljan. They can't be that bad then! :D

 

On that basis I must make a point of watching love island!

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, delticfan said:

Is the 37/0 split head code just a rerun of the 2010 model.

Not quite,  it has the chassis from the later 37/0 with narrower fuel tanks and the pub from the 37/4. The body shell is unchanged. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, 37114 said:

Not quite,  it has the chassis from the later 37/0 with narrower fuel tanks and the pub from the 37/4. The body shell is unchanged. 

I have the old green one and I’ve never really liked it can’t put my finger on it so I’m going to respray it into br blue instead of buying the new one. Might use the cash get two 47’s these look good.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • RMweb Premium

Hi 

 

I have the BR green version of this model.

Should both of the tail lights be lit at once for light engine working for the 1960 s or only one?

And should there be a white marker light at the front ?

 

thanks

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, 21C123 said:

Hi 

 

I have the BR green version of this model.

Should both of the tail lights be lit at once for light engine working for the 1960 s or only one?

And should there be a white marker light at the front ?

 

thanks

 

Roger

Can’t speak for the 37 but on a Deltic which being an EE product of the same era the tail lights are turned on from a single switch in the cab and both are lit at the same time. I’ld go for both on together. The only front light will come from behind the route indicators ie. on a split headcode two bulbs in each box or one bulb per roller blind. The tail lights don’t switch colour they are a red lense with a bulb behind hit. Hope this helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 30/11/2020 at 10:41, 21C123 said:

Thanks, I’ll leave the tail lights alone then. Maybe brighten up the headcode lights as they are very dim. 
 

Rogrr

 To  be realistic the headcode lights were very dim in daylight (and not much better in darkness!). 

 

To my eye most models have these lights far to bright. They were barely visible.

Edited by admiles
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, admiles said:

 To  be realistic the headcode lights were very dim in daylight (and not much better in darkness!). 

 

To my eye most models have these lights far to bright. They were barely visible.

Totally agree, imagine two 40 watt rough service bulbs behind a mostly black blind.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

With the latest split headcode 37, I am finding to get the body back on (after removing it for doing up/weathering etc) it is a really, really tight fit. So tight in fact it isn't easy to get it back on. In fact, with the latest lights fastened on the body (standard for all HJ O gauge locos now) it just seems to be so tight. My lights have come loose after all the messing around! Has anyone else struggled with this?

In a test a few weeks ago, the only way I could get the body back on was to turn the loco upside down and use the weight of the chassis for it to drop in but even that was a struggle and then removing it again was so difficult ( I felt I was going to pull the fuel tanks off as that was the only way I could grip it!).

I have even tried filing some excess plastic off the insides of the body but still far from ideal.

Any thoughts anyone.....??

Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, deltic17 said:

With the latest split headcode 37, I am finding to get the body back on (after removing it for doing up/weathering etc) it is a really, really tight fit. So tight in fact it isn't easy to get it back on. In fact, with the latest lights fastened on the body (standard for all HJ O gauge locos now) it just seems to be so tight. My lights have come loose after all the messing around! Has anyone else struggled with this?

In a test a few weeks ago, the only way I could get the body back on was to turn the loco upside down and use the weight of the chassis for it to drop in but even that was a struggle and then removing it again was so difficult ( I felt I was going to pull the fuel tanks off as that was the only way I could grip it!).

I have even tried filing some excess plastic off the insides of the body but still far from ideal.

Any thoughts anyone.....??

I have had the body on and off mine a few times while I was doing the detailing work, it was a tight fit but not unreasonably so? This might sound a stupid question but are you putting the chassis back in the right way round (i.e. no 2 end chassis to no 2 end body) as they do only fit one way? Can you pinpoint where it is tight/post some pics?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Firstly - Thanks for your reply.

 

I am putting it on the correct way around - just to confirm.

 

I think the problem is I'm trying to put an original class 37 body (which I had already spent absolutely ages doing up, painted, weathered etc) onto the new class 37 chassis and there seems to be fractionally less space available - especially nuts (inside) on the end of the buffers - hard to believe!! 

I can get the body on (just) but separating it again is very, very difficult.

As I said it seems to be more tight at the ends because the new chassis has the headcode lights as a block at each end.

I have recently filed off some of the insides of the body (where it isn't seen) to try and help.

 

When I put the new body back on it is fine (but still very tight) - it just seems the tolerances are fractionally less on the old body.

 

Probably a bit more filing needed in truth but not ideal.....

 

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, deltic17 said:

Firstly - Thanks for your reply.

 

I am putting it on the correct way around - just to confirm.

 

I think the problem is I'm trying to put an original class 37 body (which I had already spent absolutely ages doing up, painted, weathered etc) onto the new class 37 chassis and there seems to be fractionally less space available - especially nuts (inside) on the end of the buffers - hard to believe!! 

I can get the body on (just) but separating it again is very, very difficult.

As I said it seems to be more tight at the ends because the new chassis has the headcode lights as a block at each end.

I have recently filed off some of the insides of the body (where it isn't seen) to try and help.

 

When I put the new body back on it is fine (but still very tight) - it just seems the tolerances are fractionally less on the old body.

 

Probably a bit more filing needed in truth but not ideal.....

 

Ah, then that is probably the problem. Heljan have changed the chassis since the releases since the original release (something to do with the fuel tanks) so as you suggest the block maybe slightly different. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, 37114 said:

Ah, then that is probably the problem. Heljan have changed the chassis since the releases since the original release (something to do with the fuel tanks) so as you suggest the block maybe slightly different. 

The chassis block is the same and the fuel tanks being underneath don't come into it. It is a strange one but just slightly tighter tolerances it seems. It'll teach me to try and put an old body on a new chassis! Atleast it goes on and with continued filing here and there I will improve the fit no doubt

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...