RMweb Premium Colin Posted August 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 21, 2020 Here's a couple I made earlier - as supplied, both bodies were in a rather off-putting mid green, but a few minutes with Halfords rattlecans soon sorted that. The only modifications I have made to the bodies are to fit some brass buffers from the spares box and handrails to the NLR tank. Chassis mods include removing some sandboxes from the J69 and modifying the NLR loco to the correct single slidebar, plus a little filing and fettling of both locos to get the ride height right. At this point I must come clean and confirm that Charlie (L49) is actually a good mate of mine so any recommendations from me might be viewed with scepticism - all I'll say is that I'm happy with them! 6 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 "modifying the NLR loco to the correct single slidebar, " How did you do this please? Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Colin Posted August 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, 45568 said: "modifying the NLR loco to the correct single slidebar, " How did you do this please? Peter C. Hi Peter This was easier to do than to describe, I think! I must stress that this is very much a bodge, but conveys a reasonable impression from normal viewing distance IMO. Basically I superglued a small piece of L-section Plastruct to the top of the crosshead to convert it to a single slidebar type. I tried to use a small piece of brass strip without success, so taking the view that as the loco won't be hammering round my layout at speed, I decided that plastic would probably be sufficiently durable for a low-mileage shunter and definitely worth trying. Once the glue had set and the crosshead seemed secure, the lower slidebar was simply snipped away and the plastic motion bracket shortened, then I very carefully reshaped the bottom of the crosshead with cutters and files. I found to my relief that the modified crossheads were both hanging correctly from the remaining slidebar and that the chassis still ran smoothly. My Xuron rail cutter was perfectly adequate for the job and suffered no damage, the metal used by Electrotren seems almost flimsy. It might be easier if I took a couple of close up photos if you wish, I have another unmodified chassis which could provide a useful comparison. Edited August 23, 2020 by Colin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Thanks for that Colin, I will give it a try when I can get some plastruct. I have recently finished a J68 and the NLR tank, like you I was quite impressed by them. I am thinking of putting an article on the builds in 'Kit and scratchbuilding', and will post pix on here when I have some. Thinking of suggesting the Caledonian '498' dock shunter as a possible model for the Electrotren chassis, double slidebar too! Cheers from Oz, Peter C. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 On 19/08/2020 at 02:13, Timill said: I'd think an RTR J72 should be a better fit... I have no idea about availability, living as I do in Tennessee these days... It is better for wheelbase, readily available, and there's a choice. Both mechanisms will probably require a little overall length reduction to fit into the slightly shorter J67/69 body, very simple on the older version, not looked at the new but unlikely to be problematic. Fitting and securing these mechanisms into a body not designed to take it: test your skills! Bachmann have recently upgraded the J72 model with a conventional wiper pick up DCC ready mechanism. That's at regular new RTR price. Most likely to deliver good appearance, a clear cab interior for a start. Then there's a pile of the previous Bachmann split chassis version available cheap s/h. As a relatively light mechanism this has decent longevity, a little cutting is required to adapt it to take a DCC decoder if that is required. Not up to modern appearance standards, the mechanism fills the lower half of the cab, and this cannot be eliminated. AVOID: the earlier Mainline version, easily recognised by the visible intrusion of the motor block into the upper half of the cab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Colchester had an allocation of J68 including 68638 in 1955, one of the passenger loco with condensing pipes which CDC produce. By 1955 most of the class had the condensing pipes removed, LNE standard buffers fitted and bunker plated over all of which I've changed on the model. Other than the above, the photos show the model as received. I've obtained a J69 chassis and 15mm/10 spoke wheels from SE Finecast, excellent service with next day delivery. The chassis does need slight but very easy alterations, to fit the CDC J68 body. The challenge is fitting a motor and tomorrow's task is to fabricate a frame to the small Mashima motor I have in stock. A few photos of progress. Paul 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuhig Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 On 25/06/2020 at 04:59, Downer said: I understand the J69 body - which looks great - is designed for the older Terrier chassis. Was that ever released with a DCC socket? One of the old Terrier chassis I just bought had, most annoyingly, a chip soldered on and resting in the smokebox.. I presume one of the reasons the new Terrier chassis was intriduced was for a DCC socket? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuhig Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 (edited) On 18/08/2020 at 21:13, Timill said: I'd think an RTR J72 should be a better fit J69: 6'4"+7'6"=13'10"; coupled wheels 4'0" nominal J72: 6'8"+7'0"=13'8"; coupled wheels 4'1.25" nominal I have no idea about availability, living as I do in Tennessee these days... Top: Bought a scratch built J69 on a J72 chassis a while back. Middle: Old basic Wills Finecast kit. Bottom: J65 converted from a J72. Prefer Charlie's J69s and am working on 4xJ69 1xJ68 & 1xJ65 (CDC sell J65 and F4/F5/F6 Gobblers etc. with chassis on shapeways.com. Material and detail is not imho as good but love them all nonetheless)! CDC are producing lined out J69 with correct midway ross pops for BR(GE) Ultramarine Blue and Apple Green too. Edited August 30, 2020 by SDuhig 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDuhig Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 (edited) On 18/08/2020 at 21:13, Timill said: I'd think an RTR J72 should be a better fit J69: 6'4"+7'6"=13'10"; coupled wheels 4'0" nominal J72: 6'8"+7'0"=13'8"; coupled wheels 4'1.25" nominal I have no idea about availability, living as I do in Tennessee these days... Bought a scratch built J69 on a J72 chassis a while back. Prefer Charlie's J69s and am working on 4xJ69 1xJ68 & 1xJ65 (Have a J65 converted from J72 as well.. Edited August 30, 2020 by SDuhig 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 Following on from my notes above, I've now completed the Wills etched chassis, including wheels, coupling rods and motor. Wiring up for another day! I made the chassis as instructions for the motor to drive the rear set of wheels as for the Wills J69. This looked possible for the CBC J68, but ultimately motor wouldn't fit. So I had to cut out and move the centre chassis stretcher, to enabled the motor to run off the centre set of driving wheels. By also carefully reaming out the inside of the boiler/firebox the motor just fits, as seen in photos. Paul 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) The J68 is nearly finished, just got front number and shed plates to fix, varnish and glazing. Although CBC say the body is ready for lettering I did give it a quick spray of black to cover the print shading you can see in the earlier photos. It has been enjoyable little project and gives me another Colchester based loco. Next project is a Thompson B2 4-6-0, which may take a little longer! Paul Edited September 8, 2020 by PaulG Updated photo just glazing and weathering to do 11 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 14 hours ago, PaulG said: Next project is a Thompson B2 4-6-0, which may take a little longer! Paul Like this??? From Hornby B1 and B17 parts. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 In contrast to Paul G's J68, mine on a Hornby 'Terrier' chassis. Very cruel close-ups, to my human?? eye it looks the part in a layout setting. The body moulding required a little bit of fettling for clearance to achieve a good fit on the chassis, and I took some time trying to get the best fit of the cab roof. good value for money IMHO though. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Cheers from 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) For completeness, a couple of pix of the NLR tank. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Edited September 8, 2020 by 45568 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Colin Posted September 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 8, 2020 9 hours ago, 45568 said: Like this??? From Hornby B1 and B17 parts. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. Very nice, Peter - where did you get the NER pattern tender? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, 45568 said: Like this??? From Hornby B1 and B17 parts. Cheers from Oz, Peter C. That's the plan, but I've got a DMR Products kit from Chris at Phoenix. It's possibly COVID-19 mk2 lockdown project! Your loco is a good incentive to start sooner, it looks excellent. Edited September 8, 2020 by PaulG 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 9 hours ago, Colin said: Very nice, Peter - where did you get the NER pattern tender? Hi Colin, Many years ago,(30?), I built a B2 using the Crownline B2 conversion kit, a Replica B1 body and a Hornby tender-drive B17..! The Crownline kit gave some whitemetal castings to covert the Hornby LNER tender body to an NER 4125 gallon type, with the cut-off raves. This fitted on to the Hornby chassis, which had the wrong wheelbase, but things were a little easier back then!! When I started this conversion, I used that same body on the latest B1 tender chassis, it looks the part and gave a little continuity between the two models. Hornby have a beautiful and accurate NER 4125gal. tender behind the Q6. I was lucky enough to pick up a cheap Q6 non-runner from Oz Ebay with this tender. I found the problem and sold the loco. body/chassis on UK Ebay for more than I paid, so I have the tender to use behind the next conversion, 61616 " Fallodon", which I remember from my Ladybird Book of British Locomotives!!! Dave Alexander used to do NER tender kits, and DJH have them in their range but do not sell separately. If you are really good with brass I believe Arthur K has etched kits in his range? Hope this helps, Peter C. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45568 Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 9 hours ago, PaulG said: That's the plan, but I've got a DMR Products kit from Chris at Phoenix. It's possibly COVID-19 mk2 lockdown project! Your loco is a good incentive to start sooner, it looks excellent. Hi Paul, I believe the B2 kit is very good, but etched brass is way beyond my soldering ability. I have looked in vain for a B2/B17 brass chimney for my conversions. I obtained a lost wax example from PDK models but it did not seem quite the correct shape to me. On the loco. above, I cut the chimney from an old Hornby tender-drive B17 smokebox and filed it to fit the B1 'box. still not quite right but... If DMR had their B2/17 chimney available separately it would be ideal. cheers, Peter C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 Hi Peter Regarding my comment about the B2 being a COVID-19 mk2 project, the UK Government have announced further restrictions this morning! I haven't looked too closely at the bits in the kit, but have collected a number of photos, Yeadons and other books on the B2 when I do start. The B2 class were concentrated at Colchester for a time and it was a shame both Bachmann and Hornby decided to model a B1 and one of the companies model the B2. York Modelmaking have made for me windows for Colchester Jun signal box (I couldn't find anything of the correct pattern "off the shelf") and I've made a start on the station canopy, so plenty to do! Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LondonCharivari Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Following the Hornby Magazine article on the J69 I decided to pick up the J68 (GER C72) in GER blue. I'd been considering it for a while, but held off as I was quite curious how the livery application would be. Having seen the magazine article it looked pretty good, so I took the plunge and I'm very happy with it. I'll do some touching up of the white roof and the buffer beams, and I'll go over the number plates with something from Narrow Planet and it should look tip top. There's a bit of pixilation on the GER lettering and number plate, but it's not obvious from a normal viewing distance (I might see if I can overlay some Fox transfers over the GER, but it's definitely nit picking on my part). It arrived sans front vacuum pipe (I'll nab one off the donor Terrier) and one of the lugs cracked as I attached it to the Terrier chassis, but to no obvious ill-effect. Some pictures below if anyone else is curious, with the usual caveat that under the strong light and cruelly close up it highlights blemishes that aren't obvious to the Mark One Eyeball. In normal viewing you really struggle to realise it isn't a rtr item, and as a GER fan, it really does look like a cracker, even on a Terrier chassis. Now I just need to work out how to cram some DCC sound into the little fella... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold D9020 Nimbus Posted February 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2021 I notice that the body is significantly longer than the "Terrier" — the tension-lock coupling is almost hidden by the buffer beam, yet it (the coupling) projects quite significantly on the Terrier. Have you tried it on the track, and coupled to something? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 On 22/02/2021 at 15:40, D9020 Nimbus said: I notice that the body is significantly longer than the "Terrier" — the tension-lock coupling is almost hidden by the buffer beam, yet it (the coupling) projects quite significantly on the Terrier. Have you tried it on the track, and coupled to something? A bit late, I know, but I've just been playing with my own J69 (seeing how it looks with a pair of Hornby 6-wheelers) and I came across this thread. The rear coupling is fine, but the front coupling is a bit far back. When coupled to the Hornby coach, they're buffer to buffer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Lamb Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 On 20/04/2021 at 14:28, HonestTom said: A bit late, I know, but I've just been playing with my own J69 (seeing how it looks with a pair of Hornby 6-wheelers) and I came across this thread. The rear coupling is fine, but the front coupling is a bit far back. When coupled to the Hornby coach, they're buffer to buffer. The solution is to use the front hole in the Terrier chassis, but instead of fitting an original coupling take an NEM box and drill through it near to the rear and fit this. It will put the bar of the coupling in the correct place. You will need to cut back the lugs on the plug in coupling as the screw will foul these. This means you need to glue in the coupling to hold it in place. Bernard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian D Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 There follows a short video of my J67/1. This is a sofar un-numbered early BR loco. Speaking of numbers, I would be hugely grateful if anyone can provide a suitable number or point me in the direction of finding one. Regards, Brian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulG Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Quote Speaking of numbers, I would be hugely grateful if anyone can provide a suitable number or point me in the direction of finding one. Regards, Brian. Brian, Have you a copy of Yeadon's and RCTS "Green" bible for the class, as the class was very complex? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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