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West Canal Sidings - University portable shelf layout.


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After several days of frustration, a new relay (from my spares box) and a different Bluetooth unit (also an old spare). I am making progress on the control system. 

I have started as I mean to go on and everything is colour coded, labeled and cable managed in clear runs so that faults are easily traced. 

 

It may seem a bit extreme but in my experience wires soon turn into rats nests and it becomes increasingly difficult to trace runs. 

20200818_232408.jpg.1ec6f4cf0e940b1bd605379ee4664388.jpg

 

I've also 3d printed some brackets that  hold the lenz base unit to the baseboard and allow me to swap it between the main and uni layouts. 

20200818_173247.jpg.a44353eb7489333a95a6a9176f473156.jpg

Finally I have cancelled the rest of my track order from Liverpool as after a month I still haven't received it all and they think it may be another week or two. I want to get some scenery done before I go to uni again so I have ordered the rest of the track from a smaller shop with no back log and it should arrive in the next few days. 

 

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The rest of the track has now arrived and I've begun cutting it to size. Hopefully I'll get it glued down this weekend. 20200820_130411.jpg.5d09435f741870a01e7f7845ce88295b.jpg

I've also decided to cut a hole in the backboard on the right hand side so that at a later date I can add a removable fiddle stick or cassette to allow "through running" when I have space.  This cutout will be underneath the bridge shown in the cad files earlier in this thread. 20200820_130033.jpg.f4812c265d66c13e7b9402960f1e8e79.jpg

Finally I've been 3d printing brackets for the rest of the servos and I'm progressing with the phone app and arduino code so that it should all be working by the time the track is laid. 20200820_130402.jpg.907f91525ac1e8d89b45fc1f42d6fe60.jpg

Thanks, 

David 

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All of the point work has been wired up and glued down, tomorrow I should get the rest of the track glued and then I can flip the boards and wire in the buses and hopefully start motorising points. 

 

On that note I've finished writing a simple phone app that sends Bluetooth commands to the arduino... 20200822_202838.jpg.42a2a7bb4c711ec5e18a05ab6ace18ef.jpg

 

The buttons along the bottom change colour and correspond with green being straight ahead and red diverging. 

 

There is also a light switch in the top left which controls the relay for the lighting bus. 

 

You may also note I've made a br totem with a name for the layout. This may change however for now it's 'west canal sidings' My idea is that they are ex br sidings now privately owned/ leased from br. Any other name recommendations are welcome but I am quite happy with this. 

 

I think I might make this layout a little less built up than planned as I am really happy with the country side look I've begun to achieve on my large layout  nothing major but perhaps a few more grassy mounds and trees will appear. And I may imply the larger factory building is off scene instead of having a wedge of it at the front of the layout. 

 

Sorry for the wall of text. One last question for this evening. I quite like the look of the Dapol semaphore signals and would like to use one or two for this little layout to add some extra interest.  The sidings themselves will be operated by ground frames and probably won't even have shunting signals. However I was thinking some signaling might look nice on the 'mainline' at the back of the layout. Either just before the road bridge at the far right or just before the tunnel / entrance to the sidings in the centre. What signals would be prototypical? There is a trackplan and ideas of the building layout in previous posts of the trackplan on the screenshot above doesn't help. 

 

Thanks for looking, 

David 

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Looking very good! Wish I had the wherewithal to create ad-hoc apps like that. I think there's scope for 1-3 Dapol signals plus perhaps two dummies.

 

The station would probably have had a distant, home, and starter in each direction, plus a subsidiary to signal from the platform to the yard and a shunting signal from the yard to the platform. I've wanted to have a go at sketching signalling diagrams for ages, so thanks for the pretext. Not to scale, these are the signals and points (and facing point lock on lever 5) that would probably have been operated by the signalbox:

 

 

image.png.bdb44b436718a08b8aa7627ae6477a61.png

 

The numbering is semi-realistic for a lever frame, I think - in reality they wouldn't be numbered 1-10 with no gaps, there'd be two or three spare levers in the middle somewhere.

 

Signal 8 you'd definitely want, for signalling trains from the platform to the fiddleyard

 

Signal 7 is a subsidiary signal, for trains going from the platform to the yard. I think you could either

- scratchbuild or kitbash a dummy subsidiary signal onto the post of signal 8

- omit Signal 7 and use Signal 8 for movement into the yard - not particularly realistic but a good compromise

 

Signal 2 could either be in the scenic area or assumed to be further back out of sight. If it's in the visible area it would be positioned so approaching drivers can see it.

 

Signal 3 could either be in the scenic area or beyond the backscene. it wouldn't get used much unless you're using the fiddle stick.

 

Signal 4 is, I'm not 100% sure of the correct name for it, a yellow shunting signal. It only applies for movement over the crossover. When the crossover points are normal trains can pass it at danger to get to the other side of the yard. When the route is set over the crossover, trains leaving the yard must wait for it to clear.

 

Signals 1, 9 and 10 would definitely be well outside the scenic area.

 

There would probably be a small signal cabin, big enough for a 12-lever frame, somewhere near the fiddleyard end of the platform.

 

I have no idea how the ground frame would be set up - I some of the points could've been operated with an individual lever near the point blades!

 

If you really felt adventurous, you could add a page to the phone app representing the 10+ levers in the signalbox, and operate signals that don't physically exist… ;)

Edited by BusDriverMan
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Without wishing to pour too much cold water, I’m doubtful about the need for signals.

 

To me, this place looks more like the middle, rather than the end, of a block section, so would more likely involve a GF, released by a key on the token. Even if it was possible to ‘lock a train in’ and release the section back for through trains (a facility that some places like this had), I still don’t think it needs signals (maybe a couple of shunting signals if the railway is in a profligate mood).

 

But, signals do look good!

 

One dodge might be to assume a passing loop on the ‘main’ just off stage right, and that this lot is ‘within station limits’ For the block post controlling that. That might allow the home signal for trains coming from the left to poke up from behind the scenic blocker road bridge on the left.

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Thanks for the advice re signals.  I can see that there may not be a need for any however I think I'll work in a back story to allow for one or two as I do quite like the Dapol ones and I have other plans for the main layout. 

 

This weekend I've managed to get the track glued down. Now I just have to start tackling the wiring. Most of the droppers are already in but just dangling loose under the board, however I'm sure I've missed a few too.20200823_171706.jpg.873e725023696a7d5f2fdf9935987254.jpg

I've ran a coach around by hand for a while and it all seems good. Just needs wiring up before the first loco testing. 20200823_171708.jpg.8160830141ea12936c75bcd6ff7129ca.jpg

The join in the middle as well as the track that runs to the edge of the board allowing for a possible future "fiddle stick" are soldered to dcc concepts pcb sleepers which are glued and pinned down. 20200823_173233.jpg.3d6d66b02a255af258ef148c26360865.jpg

I then cut through the rails and filled them down and it seems to have worked well. 

 

That's all for now. Time to do some wiring. 

 

Thanks, 

David

 

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Need for Signals:

Your best bet for a back story is that the points are too far from the box to operate directly (>350 yards) but well within the distance for pulling a signal.  There were plenty of examples of GF operated points protected by box worked Signals on the GWR network. 

Using BusDrivers diagram, you could have 5, 6 and signal 7 operated from the GF with 3 and 8 operated from the box.  If a shunt arm for 7 is too difficult to add to a Dapol signal, it is legitimate to have a ground disc at the base of the post.

i would suggest that 2 is off stage (and 9).

Paul.

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sHi all, 

I've had a change of location to the gfs house ( in a covid bubble) but I've managed to get the wiring completed. 

 

All of the track now has droppers and every point is motorised and has live frogs. 20200826_132859.jpg.e3e70995047b11d5ba0ae4cf36ba4fed.jpg

I've tried to keep wiring as neat as possible. The lenz dcc system clips Into the bottom of the board and is removable and there is a chocolate block plug and socket at the baseboard join. 20200826_132914.jpg.9fd8f7538f3d1c106463fd76eb94c86b.jpg

It all seems to work well and the phone app is now working too. 

 

I'm loving having a portable layout as this week I've been working on it at the other half's house and next week it'll be coming on the family holiday to see my grandparents. My grandad got me started on railways and one of the reasons for this layout is so I can take it to show him. 

 

Also it's great taking photos outdoors. 20200826_133140.jpg.eaf56d82f7c578c7ba166d827d3535dd.jpg

 

The baseboards are working quite well and whilst the join works very well for track allingment I'm having a few issues when inverting the boards to form a box. 

 

The allingment dowels work great when used normaly but trying to line them up blind into each backsene when making the box is a nightmare and Ive scratched the backsene more than once. I'm considering replacing the dowels with removable bolts and wing nuts. The theory being they can be removed when flipping the boards over so there is nothing pointy to catch on the back scenes, and also I should then be able to bolt the box closed instead if relying on the allingment dowels catching in there corresponding holes in the back scene 

 

I hope to paint the tracks this afternoon and then I'll be all set for scenic work hopefully. 

 

Thanks for looking, 

David 

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Track all airbrushed this afternoon. 

 

I decided to try something different from sleeper grime and used vallejo earth brown airbrush paint. I think it's their game air range. 

I think it came out quite well. The rails will probably get another coat after they're ballasted. And I'll be weathering the ballast too but for a base weathering colour this works well and it gave great coverage Iver all of the soldered wires and pcb sleepers. 20200826_141559.jpg.913e0dfb991f1815d26284ade70b020e.jpg20200826_141602.jpg.4c1d06a9de8df55988c293af99c726ae.jpg20200826_160851.jpg.3acef9ceb4c39c285955b4bece4fe2bc.jpg

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Well, the layout has survived the journey to suffolk and all works well. 

 

I've brought it mainly to show my grandad but I've also got a box of scenic materials with me so some work may be done. 

 

In a last minute change I hammered out the brass dowels and put in some m8 bolts that I had ground the ends down on. 

 

They work pretty well for alignment with a little bit more effort compared to the dowels, however they don't rip the backsene when trying to align the upside down board to form a box and they allow the box to be bolted securely closed for storage and transport. 

 

20200829_123440.jpg.bd3e6fc21cc9d050d81bda4e13636a3c.jpg

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I've managed to get some work done on this layout whilst I've been visiting family here in Suffolk. 

 

I began by ballasting with woodland scenics fine buff ballast and then weathering with a mix of vallejo earth brown and some black acrylic. 

 

I also painted the boards black. 20200830_143358.jpg.97b533b9055ef02082fcb03f5e442211.jpg

 

I then spent a couple of afternoons with a scalpel and a plastic tube scribing cobble stones and blocks using das clay. 20200902_145057.jpg.befb2aef18e242671af97dff5615733d.jpg20200902_145057.jpg.befb2aef18e242671af97dff5615733d.jpg

1/2

20200902_145052.jpg

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I then set about painting the stones with acrylics and using various washes to weather them. 

Static grass Was also applied in some areas to show where the cobbles had become overgrown. 20200902_230536.jpg.e7394cd08b0e73b2f5ab15874efc2783.jpg20200903_101919.jpg.d1620b864c7352785a51545ee26ab12b.jpg20200903_211518.jpg.1be568a78f252e6a7625a2ce9f0dc114.jpg

 

Finally, the full story is on my main layout thread, however I visited the local model shop here and left a few hundred quid lighter but with this lovely dcc sound class 40.20200903_130108.jpg.339b7a401ff9d5365d332910fa8fc346.jpg

That's all for now, 

David 

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20200907_182941.jpg.72f3189f1b494a6e195c48aeddc3a3ad.jpg20200907_182953.jpg.7d23327788fb4e911b1bcb1303849c71.jpg20200907_182958.jpg.3986c84f5a5d1a31b3b2c4a0918702e4.jpgA Little bit of work done this afternoon. 

 

I've mocked in the retaining wall and raised area. 

I've mostly followed my design however it's not completely accurate. I've left a blank section in the corner that can be brick wall around the shed. Every where else I'm thinking of putting stone. 

 

I've cut the slot in the raised section that is meant to suggest the track turns to the right and continues off however I'm not sure if I like it "in the flesh" and I'm not sure I can make it look believable. 

 

I think I might just plug the hole and put some removable buildings on the raised area and leave the viewer to decide where the mainline runs after it goes under the buildings. 

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I'm in myast week before I go back to uni so it's a bit hectic but I want to get some of the messier jobs done before I bring the layout down south. 

 

To that end, I have just started detailing the canal/dock floor, allowing me to pour resin this week so any leaks don't get resin on my uni carpets. 20200913_102725.jpg.60f4987b3a0c937adc60fd37b5e6112d.jpg

 

I've also started mocking in the station so I don't have to make room for any sheets of foam to bring with me. 

 

I began by drawing a line with a pen and my longest coach, I then used a scalpel and chizel to remove ballast clean against this line. 

 

This morning I have glued in some foam support strips20200913_105911.jpg.5a8ee87e6abf44926d7f514a7600ff66.jpg

I then marked the top of platform by painting the top edge of the platform wall and pressing the sheet into the wet paint. 

This allowed me to cut the top sheet. 20200913_111136.jpg.e86a28180643ace0a2c3bea0e265c822.jpg

Still along way to go but it's a good start, 

Hopefully more progress later. 

Cheers, David

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Work has continued on the canal/dock. 

I began by painting and staining matchsticks to glue in as upright supports or fenders. 20200913_151445.jpg.c92458b64df3bad273014f034b6809c7.jpg

 

I then taped up the front of the layout and mixed up the resin20200913_153343.jpg.4ea0539c156cc83242f869dd24196a68.jpg

All was going well and the resin poured quite deep. Then after it settled it started leaking..... 

I had glued behind the rear edge of the canal bed and glued over the bottom edge of tape so all should have been good.

 

However, I forgot to glue under the top edge of the tape, so when it got wet the tape came unstuck from the edge of the canal board allowing resin to flow underneath the board and onto the floor. (the tape was glued to the frame board and there was a gap between the frame board and the canal bed.) 

 

Anyway after some swearing and many different efforts I finally plugged the gap with some clay and it has now started to cure. I can see alot of tidying up to be done tomorrow evening when it's cured. 20200913_165506.jpg.2dd9563daad69dce6c1cc621d5759aa0.jpg

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This evening I have continued mocking in the station area using foam board. 

 

I took the dimensions from my Cad drawings and cut out the main shapes. 

I then trimmed them to fit the board perfectly. 

 

I used hot glue to glue it together with various strengtheners.

20200913_210628.jpg.cd0f80287dfeb9e2e5adb903c6ef93e1.jpg

I had drawn the steps in at 2mmx2mm  however I ended up cutting notches in my 5mm foam board so they are about 2.5mm ish. I could 3d print more accurate steps however for now I think this looks good, and they allow me to add different textures easily and create a worn look. 20200913_214924.jpg.d44f1a8006e844aac0c0605c12d8fa39.jpg20200913_212129.jpg.829914ce2f8531d38e39cb2ecb663295.jpg20200913_214928.jpg.9cc3d25f4bede01d0d0d6bd18352e59a.jpg

Thanks for looking,

David 

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well, im now in portsmouth back in my student home and the layout has made the journey too.

i thought id better update the thread on what i got up to just before leaving.

 

to begin with i carved the resin flush with the board as it had bowed out in all of the leaking saga. i then sanded it up to 2000 grit  to make it flush and smooth.20200914_154923.jpg.b41322b897d32dfa16b86efe810a5f54.jpg20200914_161550.jpg.0fbc7f3530c4a70272f8e9532e028056.jpg

once this was done i gave it a cleanup and painted the edge of the board.

 

20200915_151359.jpg.71d517ffc8250e5c4bea992ab0305c11.jpg

i think it looks quite good, i may add ripples at some point.

you can also see in the above photo that i replaced the foam on top of the hidden sidings with a peice of hardboard. this also has a strip of 9mm ply as a stiffener. it is a little overkill , however i think i am leaving this section removeable so i can have taller buildings up there and still fold up the main boards.

 

finally i added a small mirror under the bridge. its not perfect but it has to be semi permanent in case i ever want to extend the rails through the hole in the backsene through the bridge. it gives the ilusion that the track and station continue under the bridge.20200915_172421.jpg.3c5f84e2a1428de28ddf702cb305caa7.jpg

thanks for looking,

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys, I apologise for the silence, I've had the layout out  for a little running session and I've been working on some metcalfe bench kits. 

 

Today I started thinking about the station and actually got some work done. 

 

I am using the same plasticard from my main layout for the paving.

 

I began by modifying the ramp, as I had cut it on a diagonal and have decided to make it at a right angle to the track. 20200928_150503.jpg.61d4a43a3056849e7128e9ffca81f157.jpg20200928_152309.jpg.c68a6fd5c12668364b87372fe81d0d6a.jpg

This was  done with some more foam board to make a frame and then the plasticard can be glued on top. 

 

I then cut some paving plasticard to shape and glued it down. I've left a gap along the front edge to allow for large square slabs. There will be some fencing along the back of the platform. 20200928_155335.jpg.cc97245b7915481538d896b7cba25b27.jpg

Finally here is a of one of the metcalfe bench kits. 20200928_160848.jpg.2482141a5edf44a7ea3802027cc1fda9.jpg

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Hi all,

I recently purchased a new camera so I've been looking at work I can do with the materials I've got (i.e. I'm broke). Inbetween all of the practicing (playing ) I've been doing with the new camera I've managed to start framing in the shed. I've decided this will be a botch job lean too that the workers threw up in wood and corrugated tin/ iron . To begin i have set out making up a matchstick frame , hopefully it should look quite good all weathered up, and you should see it through the door / windows.P1010428.JPG.64c8e2ddeaa743c2ba82a8cf2d17e754.JPGP1010521.JPG.e902d5d251f3048f6e34b2490a7bfdfc.JPG

 

 

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The shed has been airbrushed an undercoat of us earth brown. i have also ordered some plasticard and other modelling materials to hopefully do some more work on it later in the week.P1020581.JPG.6766205c06e4ac0261ad0bd797267983.JPG

in the meantime ive started work on the retaining wall, there will be a more detailed video on my youtube channel at some point. i have decided to continue the theme used for the wharf wall , a mix of large sandtone blocks and smaller rocks possibly flint. there will be some brick thrown in too.P1020614.JPG.1a4816f188e6b4f6b61de43db0027022.JPGthis is the scribed clay, obviously alot of work needs doing but its a start.P1020585.JPG.5aa34af97b116e71bbc418f9e383e9e0.JPGIm still unsure what to put in the front oval on the right board. Im thinking a tank of some sort would look good between the two sidings , and there is a small warehouse going in the front corner of the left board at the end of the canal. i feel like it is a lot of space and dumping a large building there feels like a cop out and it would need to be removable anyway. perhaps a road or yard of some sort?. timber and coal merchant or scrap yard ?  any and all suggestions welcome, Regards ,

David

Edited by Horsehay Railway Modeller
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  • 3 weeks later...

I hadnt realised how long ago it was I'd posted on here. I've made some good progress. I've pretty much finished the retaining wall, added lighting and a roof to the shed, and scratchbuilt a new warehouse building based on my origional plans . I've also fiddled with the positioning code for the point servos and upgraded the throw wires. hopefully i'll get some photos of all this up over the next few days. below is a  teaser photo before i get my sd cards organised and compress a few photos. (ps  the window frames for the shed arrived today)

 

 

 

 

 

 

P1030319.JPG.fb2be43ba946b39482745ae51000642f.JPG

 

 

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