Nearly 60 years old,But scrubs up well. A Triang 3mt story

[cypherman]

Hi all,

Well after a hard fought fight with a very recalcitrant chassis that just would not work. I managed to fix all it's problems. That story is in another thread. Any way here is the almost finished article. The only things to do are to change the number and then spray it with matt varnish. This engine came from multiple sources. The body shell came from 2 body shells which were hacked about to make one good body. The good green body and chassis from the single 3mt pictured were made into one engine(That's another story) and the rest became what you see here.

So what happened:

The black 3mt with the damaged rear mounting donated it's chimney and right hand step to the other almost complete black body. 

Chassis used was completely rebuilt with new valve gear, pick ups and bogie/pony trucks, new motor and complete set of new wheels plus new isolating centres.

Body has been painted in 2 tone satin and matt black.

Engine has been lined out in early BR livery Number is wrong and will be changed when time permits.

Windows have been glazed.

Real coal has been added to the engine. Here is a tip since the engines bunker is large and empty I cut up a piece of sponge and inserted it into the bunker. It is help in place with a drop of pva glue. It is light and can be cut to what ever size you want and is easy to do.

Front and rear vacuum pipes fitted.

Scratch built front and rear lamp brackets 

Added front lamp set for local passenger service.

Whistles were cleaned as they basically were black with grime.

There is a slight warping at the front of this engine. But that is very common with the older versions. The later ones sorted this out by putting the fixing screw through the front into the chassis instead of down the chimney. Plus used better plastic.

This is by no means a Bachmann 3mt and it has all it's original flaws. But I have enjoyed the challenge of rebuilding this engine far more than going out and buying a new one.

First pictures are what I started with. then the rest are how it is now.

Edited June 19, 2020 by cypherman

[LNWR18901910]

18 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

Well after a hard fought fight with a very recalcitrant chassis that just would not work. I managed to fix all it's problems. That story is in another thread. Any way here is the almost finished article. The only things to do are to change the number and then spray it with matt varnish. This engine came from multiple sources. The body shell came from 2 body shells which were hacked about to make one good body. The good green body and chassis from the single 3mt pictured were made into one engine(That's another story) and the rest became what you see here.

So what happened:

The black 3mt with the damaged rear mounting donated it's chimney and right hand step to the other almost complete black body. 

Chassis used was completely rebuilt with new valve gear, pick ups and bogie/pony trucks, new motor and complete set of new wheels plus new isolating centres.

Body has been painted in 2 tone satin and matt black.

Engine has been lined out in early BR livery Number is wrong and will be changed when time permits.

Windows have been glazed.

Real coal has been added to the engine. Here is a tip since the engines bunker is large and empty I cut up a piece of sponge and inserted it into the bunker. It is help in place with a drop of pva glue. It is light and can be cut to what ever size you want and is easy to do.

Front and rear vacuum pipes fitted.

Scratch built front and rear lamp brackets 

Added front lamp set for local passenger service.

Whistles were cleaned as they basically were black with grime.

There is a slight warping at the front of this engine. But that is very common with the older versions. The later ones sorted this out by putting the fixing screw through the front into the chassis instead of down the chimney. Plus used better plastic.

This is by no means a Bachmann 3mt and it has all it's original flaws. But I have enjoyed the challenge of rebuilding this engine far more than going out and buying a new one.

First pictures are what I started with. then the rest are how it is now.

That looks pretty impressive! I know it's a commonly-asked question, but does it work?

[cypherman]

Hi LNWR,

Yes it works. There is  thread here where I asked for electrical help for the chassis. It kept shorting out. Took me about a week to get it running right. Now it goes like all the clappers.

[Middlesea John]

Way way back many centuries ago, not long after Railway Modelling began......well in the 80s and early 90s, I used to have a stall every year at the Hull Model Railway Show, which was then held in the grandiose surroundings of Hull City Hall.  There's a photo of one such show in the July 2020 Railway Modeller where you can see me, though not at my stand.  Anyway, to get to the point, what I did was to detail and otherwise improve ready to run models.  I succeeded, among others, with a Hornby Dublo 2-6-4T, A Kitmaster/Tri-ang 2-6-0 and two early Hornby M7s.  Of course super-detailed RTR models became the norm and my Southern collection now mostly consists of models  far better than I could hope to achieve.  For the last couple of years my project was a Tri-ang 2-6-2T.  I had it re-wheeled by the late Brian Latus and added all sorts of bits and bobs.  I was (and still am) quite pleased with it and I'd be happy for it to run round Ladycross now and again........except for one thing.  I can't get the front buffer beam to the right height - it's soo high   I'll try to dig it out; I think it's at home somewhere, not locked down at the Hull MRS clubroom and put some pictures on if I can.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  The buffer beam is too high by the way.  Thank you and thanks especially to Cyberman for the inspiration for another lockdown project !

[cypherman]

Hi Middlesea,

Is it too high because of the warping issues the older body shells have at the front of the engine raising the front buffer beam in the process. The all seem to warp upwards at the front raising the buffer beam height. This one I have done has warped a little. Which I must admit I had not noticed before I started. I have considered getting an old body with warping issues and trying to see if applying heat to it would let you straighten it out. Or is it too high generally front and back.

I look forwards to seeing your 3mt.

Edited June 19, 2020 by cypherman

[BernardTPM]

All the old Tri-ang locos (and most of the rolling stock) had buffers set too high to create clearance for bogie and pony mounted couplings so they would run onto their inclines without any chance of the coupling 'grounding' on the underside of the bufferbeam.

[Middlesea John]

I've found it ! Deep in the jungle of boxes.  The problem was that I've shortened it to near correct length - mainly behind the buffer beam and as such the body didn't fit  horizontally onto the chassis.  I did a load of carving/sawing/hacking/throwing etc until it did.  I now realise x years on that I'd glued the buffer beam on an angle so the buffers were pointing slightly upwards. I (not very) carefully snapped it off and I'm going to try again.  I'll take a photo if it works.  Thanks for the suggestions guys.

[Middlesea John]

Here we are.  I've now renumbered it (again) to 82012, which was an Eastleigh loco in 1962 and added a bit more weathering.  I think I've got it to sit level at long last.  A bit of padding with plasticard did the trick.  Hopefully it will make a few appearances on Ladycross (Railway Modeller July 2020).

[cypherman]

Hi Middlesea,

Lovely job on the 3mt. I like your weathering. Or is that just dust from storage.......

[Middlesea John]

Cheeky monkey it's weathering !  Although you do present a challenge - to model a layer of dust that's been on something stored for the winter in a shed or depot !