Graham108 Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I'm using an old H&M Duette which must be around 50 years old now. Only one of the transformers works, which is OK for me, and I've just tested the 12v accessory connections and they work as well. But I'm really in need of knowing what type / size of plug should be used for a tight fit please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 23, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2020 40 minutes ago, bartram108 said: I'm using an old H&M Duette which must be around 50 years old now. Only one of the transformers works, which is OK for me, and I've just tested the 12v accessory connections and they work as well. But I'm really in need of knowing what type / size of plug should be used for a tight fit please. I have an old H&M catalogue which shows that they were once available, but it doesn't give the size! Usually banana type plugs, the normal size of which are 4mm diameter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 I'm pretty sure the early version used 1/8 inch connectors, a tiny bit bigger than 3mm. 3mm banana plugs can be found. Test the size with a drill bit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Cane Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 The type of plug I have always used in the H&M sockets is known as a wander plug Various sites still have these including this example on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/174318850674?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174318850674&targetid=908661474856&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007109&poi=&campaignid=10195651586&mkgroupid=107296210212&rlsatarget=pla-908661474856&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113687781&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpXJTaSCl98UMcfM7uqV0lvM12ieq7fEGKlx8uHI8qvqfmAbGRticvUaAlrpEALw_wcB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Yes, they are what I used until they got lost. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Cane Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Having looked more closely 3mm banana plugs are more cost effective !!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 One side failing sounds ominous. Do the AC and DC uncontrolled outputs both work? If so its probably the rheostat wire support which may be asbestos has disintegrated. No big deal but I would have the top off and do a visual test on the internal wiring. The more common fail is the rectifiers, selenium? fail. There are some excellent rectifiers about 12 amp on eBay for about £2 which bolt straight in and work fine just using the case as a heat sink. You could use a 2 Amp for 75p but you need a £3 heat sink so to misquote Mr pres dent its Fake Economy. There was some lethal insulation around circa 1975 which sort of falls off as if its been attacked by acid. We had some in some UK made flourescent lamps made 1975, had to scrap all 16 or so. In many cases the 1950s insulation seems fine but I still change it if there is any doubt. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted June 25, 2020 Author Share Posted June 25, 2020 19 hours ago, DavidCBroad said: One side failing sounds ominous. Do the AC and DC uncontrolled outputs both work? If so its probably the rheostat wire support which may be asbestos has disintegrated. No big deal but I would have the top off and do a visual test on the internal wiring. The more common fail is the rectifiers, selenium? fail. There are some excellent rectifiers about 12 amp on eBay for about £2 which bolt straight in and work fine just using the case as a heat sink. You could use a 2 Amp for 75p but you need a £3 heat sink so to misquote Mr pres dent its Fake Economy. There was some lethal insulation around circa 1975 which sort of falls off as if its been attacked by acid. We had some in some UK made flourescent lamps made 1975, had to scrap all 16 or so. In many cases the 1950s insulation seems fine but I still change it if there is any doubt. Not had chance to test the AC output yet - will try later. Thanks for the other replies - I'll check size with a drill bit (with the unit unplugged!) and I'll get some appropriate plugs from my local electrical shop (if it's open again yet). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
H2O Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 19 hours ago, DavidCBroad said: "... asbestos has disintegrated. No big deal ..." I agree with the rest of the post but the quoted 2 phrases above don't seem to fit together very well. If the part is asbestos and has disintegrated I'd junk (I mean dispose responsibly) the controller and buy or use something less harmful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 What happened with mine was the wire of the rheostat on one side wore through, resulting in very non linear speed response from the locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suzie Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 The duette has a split winding transformer, one winding used for the DC output and one controller, and the other transformer winding used for the AC output and the other controller. 'Wander' plugs were the plugs to use for this, and you can probably make 3mm plugs fit by opening them out a little. 1/8" is 3.175mm so not much bigger. I think there might be a little opportunity here to 3D print a suitable plug based around 1/8" brass cotter pins. much like the originals were made. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) I use a Clipper controller as a power source, with 4mm banana plugs for both 16vac & 12vdc (colour coded, of course). Edited June 25, 2020 by Stubby47 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted June 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2020 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAMMANT-AND-MORGAN-CONTROLLER-ACCESSORY-PINS-15V-AC-12V-DC-POINT-MOTORS-LIGHTING fit really well. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 (edited) That link doesn't work for me. Can you post the item number? Don't worry, I've found it. 164221350779 Edited June 25, 2020 by smokebox 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richyc Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253375502633 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted June 27, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 27, 2020 Yep that is it - I did ask about 90Degree fittings but I guess they could be home modified if space tight. Got two pairs and work perfectly. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted July 10, 2020 Author Share Posted July 10, 2020 OK so I've now checked the AC outlet and it's working fine. Bu I have another question - which of the sockets are +ve and which -ve please? There's nothing on the unit to identify this and I wouldn't want to wire anything up the wrong way and cause a problem somewhere. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeremyC Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 (edited) I assume your question regarding +ve and -ve refers to the DC sockets (otherwise the question makes no sense). On mine the +ve is the rear most one (which seems counter intuitive). One assumes they were all the same Edited July 10, 2020 by JeremyC Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham108 Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 On 10/07/2020 at 17:45, JeremyC said: I assume your question regarding +ve and -ve refers to the DC sockets (otherwise the question makes no sense). On mine the +ve is the rear most one (which seems counter intuitive). One assumes they were all the same Many thanks for the info Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave B Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 (edited) If you are going to mess about with the insides of a H&M Duettee, be aware that the rheostat is wound on something that looks awfully like flaky asbestos. It is actually described as asbestos in a user manual, but in those days, "asbestos" was sometimes used generically for any heat resistance mat material. Edited February 26, 2021 by Dave B add a word Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted February 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 27, 2021 7 hours ago, Dave B said: If you are going to mess about with the insides of a H&M Duettee, be aware that the rheostat is wound on something that looks awfully like flaky asbestos. It is actually described as asbestos in a user manual, but in those days, "asbestos" was sometimes used generically for any heat resistance mat material. For the sake of safety, anything that 'looks like' asbestos, should be treated as if it is asbestos. The answer is for someone to pay for one to be tested. However the problem is that proper testing would cost vastly more than the controller is worth! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted February 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 27, 2021 On 24/06/2020 at 03:55, Tony Cane said: The type of plug I have always used in the H&M sockets is known as a wander plug Various sites still have these including this example on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/174318850674?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174318850674&targetid=908661474856&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007109&poi=&campaignid=10195651586&mkgroupid=107296210212&rlsatarget=pla-908661474856&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113687781&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpXJTaSCl98UMcfM7uqV0lvM12ieq7fEGKlx8uHI8qvqfmAbGRticvUaAlrpEALw_wcB In the good old days we (my Dad really) used to push the wire into the hole and hold it there with half a matchstick (used, generally). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Just use some short lengths of 1/8"od brass tube or rod with a piece of single strand wire soldered around the middle to stop them from falling into the unit. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dorset Wanderer Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 Just used a matchstick with the wire wrapped round- worked 20 years for me. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now