Mark Saunders Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Ruston said: I thought I'd just see what mine would look like with a Lambton cab. The cab isn't fixed down, hence the gap. Hmm... No, I think I prefer the standard cab. Soeaking of which, in the RT Models detailing etches there is a cab rear. The problem is I can't get the plastic cab rear out. It's firmly glued in and woud be a massive butchery job to cut it all out. Dave the Lambton cab looks the part to me and think it would look good running with some NCB 13 ton hoppers, just need the Parkside BR one to modify! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 2 hours ago, Mark Saunders said: Dave the Lambton cab looks the part to me and think it would look good running with some NCB 13 ton hoppers, just need the Parkside BR one to modify! The cab isn't mine. I built is as a commission for someone, so it definitely won't be going on my loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 The tank/boiler now has replacement steps fitted, plus a lamp iron and is now finished. I'm on with the cab and have just fitted the etched window frames. Once the glue has gone off I'll file the plastic of the cab to match them. I'm still waiting for wheels and chassis. I've just noticed that one of the front buffers has become loose. I should have Araldited them in, instead of superglue! 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 I retained the original moulded Hornby steps on the tank sides because I wasnt confident of being able to secure the RT replacements well enough to survive for long in such a vulnerable position. How have you secured yours? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 2 hours ago, mike morley said: I retained the original moulded Hornby steps on the tank sides because I wasnt confident of being able to secure the RT replacements well enough to survive for long in such a vulnerable position. How have you secured yours? A blob of Araldite. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 10 hours ago, Ruston said: A blob of Araldite. For delicate items, if possible I solder them to a brass pin or length of wire this can be superglued through a tight hole or bent over and araldited inside. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Down_Under Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 Hey Ruston, Loving this build. Vast improvement and already capturing the bulk of the real thing. Thanks for taking the time to show us all how you did it. Got two in the stash to do some day. J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 12, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 12, 2020 I am very happy that you did not bottle it on doing the orange - it's going to look great. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 12, 2020 Share Posted July 12, 2020 19 hours ago, Ruston said: The tank/boiler now has replacement steps fitted, plus a lamp iron and is now finished. I'm on with the cab and have just fitted the etched window frames. Once the glue has gone off I'll file the plastic of the cab to match them. I'm still waiting for wheels and chassis. I've just noticed that one of the front buffers has become loose. I should have Araldited them in, instead of superglue! Love the window frames. Pity there isn't a 7mm version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 On 27/06/2020 at 07:30, avonside1563 said: Here’s some cab detail of Wimblebury to start with How much of the pipework is to do with heritage passenger regulations? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) I'm really not sure about this now. The lining wasn't perfectly straight to begin with but once gave it a coat of varnish to seal it, some parts wrinkled. I'm not going to do it again though. If it can be hidden by weathering then OK but if not, I'll repaint it in a plain green livery. In fact it's not just the lining. It's the whole thing. I guess it seemed like a good idea at the time. I've got some wheels and now I'm just waiting for the chassis kit and a gearbox. Edited July 18, 2020 by Ruston 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 18, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 18, 2020 Don’t torture me with threats of green liveries! I had a mare with varnish and transfers this week too. Ended up redoing the same pieces 3 times. Have left it alone for now and will attempt klear and then spray it to see how that goes. Someone on here recommended leaving transfers for at least a week before varnishing. I think it’s looking gaudy at the moment which is likely what you are finding off-putting, but genuinely I think you should stick with it as the details, weathering and toning down will bring it all together. When I did that Lambton style 0-6-0 it was far too bright, but with matt coat, weathering washes and soot powder I was really happy with it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike morley Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Try grubbying it up a bit (or perhaps a lot) and see how you feel about it then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 Whilst in the " nothing to lose" mode: go the whole hog and letter it "PEPPER". Apply Matt varnish and then let it harden for several weeks. This can then be "knocked back" with 2000 grade used wet and / or a fibreglass pencil before adding the usual layers of grime. Selective rubbing can be used to eliminate the wonky bits of lining and the letters should just appear as a ghost in the weathering. Unless someone has definite first hand experience, I remain unconvinced by the black suspecting that it was actually a dark dirty MOD green. Pepper#4 was bought directly from the WD by the opencast contractors and I can't see that it would justify a full repaint. The photos of the jinty suggest that it was still in its BR black and had had the side tanks painted over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 19, 2020 Author Share Posted July 19, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, doilum said: Whilst in the " nothing to lose" mode: go the whole hog and letter it "PEPPER". Apply Matt varnish and then let it harden for several weeks. This can then be "knocked back" with 2000 grade used wet and / or a fibreglass pencil before adding the usual layers of grime. Selective rubbing can be used to eliminate the wonky bits of lining and the letters should just appear as a ghost in the weathering. Unless someone has definite first hand experience, I remain unconvinced by the black suspecting that it was actually a dark dirty MOD green. Pepper#4 was bought directly from the WD by the opencast contractors and I can't see that it would justify a full repaint. The photos of the jinty suggest that it was still in its BR black and had had the side tanks painted over. It looks black to me, in the 3 colour photos that I've seen. These photos are all from 1968/69 and by then it was over 25 years old and would have likely been in need of a repaint before that time. I'm not putting PEPPER on it as there's no sign of it in the photos. It may have had it at one time but not when the photos I've seen were taken. I'll be having some PEPPER transfers made for the B4 0-4-0T that I'll be having for the layout but not for the Austerity. Edited July 19, 2020 by Ruston 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 It's funny that the livery shown in 'Ruston''s photo looks really garish but all over yellow locomotives don't. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 1963 and before the orange and black paint job. https://rcts.zenfolio.com/industrial-and-light/industrial-steam/other/hA88A99EB#ha88a99eb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ruston said: 1963 and before the orange and black paint job. https://rcts.zenfolio.com/industrial-and-light/industrial-steam/other/hA88A99EB#ha88a99eb Any idea of the colour? Still wearing the WD paint? Apparently the Pepper locomotives were overhauled in house at British Oak. Can you confirm? Edited July 20, 2020 by doilum Text error Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 On 18/07/2020 at 18:18, Ruston said: I'm really not sure about this now. The lining wasn't perfectly straight to begin with but once gave it a coat of varnish to seal it, some parts wrinkled. I'm not going to do it again though. If it can be hidden by weathering then OK but if not, I'll repaint it in a plain green livery. In fact it's not just the lining. It's the whole thing. I guess it seemed like a good idea at the time. I've got some wheels and now I'm just waiting for the chassis kit and a gearbox. I always think the brighter liveries can look challenging until they receive some weathering, and then everything tones together nicely. It will be fine. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 As Stuart (Barclay) said. The other factor here are those shiny wheels and rods which draw the eye a bit too easily. It'll come together. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted July 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 21, 2020 I agree. dumb down the tyre rims, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockalaucher101 Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Can I ask where you sourced the smokebox door? I have checked the RT Models site and it's not included in the detail parts... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted July 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 21, 2020 I think this one hasn't appeared in-thread yet. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Corbs said: I think this one hasn't appeared in-thread yet. OK, definitely not green!! Is it blue?? The orange on the tank looks much more yellow than the smokebox front. Ruston can claim that his lining is prototypically correct. I might still be tempted to add the Peppers lettering for historical context rather than accuracy. Overall I am surprisingly impressed by the standard of turnout. Definitely worth modelling. Edited July 21, 2020 by doilum Additional information Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted July 21, 2020 Share Posted July 21, 2020 Did you buy that off ebay Corbs? Seem to recall it was on fairly recently Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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