TomJ Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 I know they say there’s no such thing as a stupid question - but this might be pushing it! I’ve always used Peco point motors but on my new micro layout it seems a bit OTT and considering mechanical operation - piano wire or similar. But I can’t work out how to connect the wire to a micro switch to change the frog polarity. I don’t mean how to wire the switch and frog. I mean how do you actually connect the point wire to the switch so both move at the same time? Any suggestions gratefully recieved! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d00m Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 if piano wire is under baseboard, simply fit a right angled crank to the wire connected to the points. The end not connected to the wire acts on the microswitch suitably mounted under baseboard next to points. Alternatively connect operating end of piano wire to the toggle of a DPDT switch. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM42 Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 I would use the action of a switch to operate the points through the wire Easier and more reliable. Andy 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomJ Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 Thanks. That’s sort of what I was planning. But how do I connect the wire to the switch. I can’t find any that have some suitable connection for this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted June 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2020 (edited) Wire in tube. Using 0.6/0.7 mm piano wire and styrene tube. This layout is EM gauge so the shorter throw means the omega loops are needed, may not be necessary in 00. Drill a 1 mm hole through the slide switch pass the wire through and bend over the end to retain it. These are double pole switches so one pole set the frog polarity and the other is used to show turnout direction on a mimic diagram. The switch with two wires is controlling the two halves of a double slip (makes life so much easier in EM to separate the two halves) Edited June 28, 2020 by dhjgreen 1 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 It is necessary to drill the switch lever to take the operating wire. I arrange things so that the operating wire also operates a microswitch. (The type with a lever - some have a roller on the end of the lever- these are probably better.) This sort of thing (first eBay listing - no connection to the seller). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Straight-Hinge-Lever-AC-DC-Micro-Switch-Limit-Switch-V-152-1C25/221119571705?hash=item337bc0e6f9:g:3qUAAOxyNa9SIAtG 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 3 minutes ago, dhjgreen said: Wire in tube. Using 0.6/0.7 mm piano wire and styrene tube. This layout is EM gauge so the shorter throw means the omega loops are needed, may not be necessary in 00. Drill a 1 mm hole through the slide switch pass the wire through and bend over the end to retain it... So much preferable to point motors for yards and similar locations where you to be present at the location to actually see the locos and stock to make the moves. Has all the virtues: reliable, quick to install, cheap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godders Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 41 minutes ago, dhjgreen said: Wire in tube. Using 0.6/0.7 mm piano wire and styrene tube. This layout is EM gauge so the shorter throw means the omega loops are needed, may not be necessary in 00. Drill a 1 mm hole through the slide switch pass the wire through and bend over the end to retain it. These are double pole switches so one pole set the frog polarity and the other is used to show turnout direction on a mimic diagram. The switch with two wires is controlling the two halves of a double slip (makes life so much easier in EM to separate the two halves) Please explain why EM is different to: 00, H0 or any other gauge. Cheers Godders Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted June 28, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2020 (edited) DELETED - Sorry! Edited June 28, 2020 by JDW Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godders Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 I think you need to check the facts before making such statements. This is not true in the case of 4-SF (00-SF), which have exactly the same clearances as EM. Also if this were true N gauge would be better because the clearances are smaller than either 00 or EM. The fact of the matter is it doesn't matter what the gauge is from an electrical point of view. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 A friend of mine has a 7mm exhibition layout that uses these: https://ngtrains.com/shop/product/blue-point-turnout-controller-5-pack/ I was very impressed with the performance. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 3 hours ago, dhjgreen said: Wire in tube. Using 0.6/0.7 mm piano wire and styrene tube. This layout is EM gauge so the shorter throw means the omega loops are needed, may not be necessary in 00. Drill a 1 mm hole through the slide switch pass the wire through and bend over the end to retain it. These are double pole switches so one pole set the frog polarity and the other is used to show turnout direction on a mimic diagram. The switch with two wires is controlling the two halves of a double slip (makes life so much easier in EM to separate the two halves) By some stroke of serendipity, these switches have the same throw as an O gauge peco point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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