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only one way to find out. somebody give to give it a go as a board joiner go and review it.

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10 hours ago, sir douglas said:

only one way to find out. somebody give to give it a go as a board joiner go and review it.

Unfortunately I'm not at the baseboard building stage yet, still working on the railway room, otherwise I would give them a go.

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On 30/06/2020 at 08:44, rab said:

 

https://www.facebook.com/108165737600070/posts/128343342248976/?app=fbl

This came up on Facebook. I wondered if it would be any good

for joining baseboards

They need to be fitted at the bottom of the board structure.  My gut feel is that it would allow too much play at the top without a solid subframe to hold everything very level.  Traditional sprung catches will be easier to fit (unless there is a need to keep sides of the board free of additions).

Paul.

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3 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

They need to be fitted at the bottom of the board structure.  My gut feel is that it would allow too much play at the top without a solid subframe to hold everything very level.  Traditional sprung catches will be easier to fit (unless there is a need to keep sides of the board free of additions).

Paul.

 

There is nothing to stop you fitting them wherever they would be most effective,

ie where the spring catches would normally be.

Obviously if there is a need to keep the sides 'clear', then traditional dowels, and

nuts and bolts might still be the best solution.

  • Agree 1

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Nuts, bolts & dowels are IMHO, the tried & tested method. If you break one of those snazzy-looking joiners, you're up Effluent Creek without a paddle. Spares on the 'Flintstones' model is-are available from your local DiY store. 

 

The one thing I haven't tried yet, are the wedges as used by double glazing fitters. Has anyone tried them yet?

 

Ian.

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