Jump to content
 

Simple to use Common crossing jig


hayfield
 Share

Recommended Posts

The EMGS jigs arrived this morning so i have started with the v jig. this is my 2nd and 3rd attempt, i got the filing wrong on the 1st one. I have plenty of stainless steel rail and was surprised how easy it was to solder, mind you i am using some pretty beefy acid flux.

Going to put the common crossing jig together this evening.

 

 

 

IMG_20200706_145604.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

From the photo it looks like you have butt joined the blades together, though it also looks like you have spliced both together

 

In 4 mm scale I do the simple splicing method as the method of filing both sides of the leading rail can hardly seen especially when using the finer gauges

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to have to experiment. I am following the EMGS instructions, both rails filed on the inside edge, 1 halfway and the other fully.

Any advice welcome.

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are doing it the correct way, but then  only one rail has a blunt end at the tip, the other is spliced into the side of the other rail with about 4 or 5mm between the 2 tips

 

6.JPG.7f21aff3cd8062a8bc8169b89345b98c.JPG

 

You can just see the bottom rail let into the side of the top rail

Edited by hayfield
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, hayfield said:

 

6.JPG.7f21aff3cd8062a8bc8169b89345b98c.JPG

 

As an aside, where do you get the flat bar for the crossing gauge, in the background?  I can find bar @0.8mm thick (but I guess that would be for P4 ?)  but I'm after 1mm thick for OO-SF / EM.  I've  looked on eBay and a general Google but with fruitless results.

 

Cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
3 hours ago, down the sdjr said:

I am going to have to experiment. I am following the EMGS instructions, both rails filed on the inside edge, 1 halfway and the other fully.

Any advice welcome.

 

Have a look at the second post in this link from Martin on the Templot Forum (I highly recommend you join up if you haven't already, it's free).  It's shows where to bend your rail before filing.

 

https://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=359&forum_id=1

 

Cheers, Dubs

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tim Dubya said:

 

Have a look at the second post in this link from Martin on the Templot Forum (I highly recommend you join up if you haven't already, it's free).  It's shows where to bend your rail before filing.

 

https://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=359&forum_id=1

 

Cheers, Dubs

Thanks Dubs,

That is really helpful. I saw the instructions mentioned bending the rail, was not sure what that meant.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Tim Dubya said:

 

As an aside, where do you get the flat bar for the crossing gauge, in the background?  I can find bar @0.8mm thick (but I guess that would be for P4 ?)  but I'm after 1mm thick for OO-SF / EM.  I've  looked on eBay and a general Google but with fruitless results.

 

Cheers

 

1 mm is from the EM gauge society, the one in the photo was milled for me by a friend quite a few years ago

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Grovenor said:

Metric feeler gauges usually have one at 1 mm.

This was going to be my next question. I am stuggling to find something 1.2mm for 00 gauge.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
13 minutes ago, down the sdjr said:

This was going to be my next question. I am stuggling to find something 1.2mm for 00 gauge.

 

Drill out the rivet on feeler gauges for easier use. You can use 2 together to make any thickness you like -- 0.8mm + 0.4mm = 1.2mm. If you rub them with a magnet they will be magnetized enough to stick together.

 

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rovtop-Feeler-Stainless-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B074J3GWH1

 

Martin.

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, down the sdjr said:

This was going to be my next question. I am stuggling to find something 1.2mm for 00 gauge.

 

 

Buying a set of check rail gauges which ironically were produced for 00-SF but as Martin tells us are also spot on for 00

 

Rightly or wrongly I had a length of aluminum milled to 1.25 mm (give or take a few thou. SMP used to include a simple aluminum gauge  10.5 mm wide by 1.25 mm thick

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
15 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

 

Buying a set of check rail gauges which ironically were produced for 00-SF but as Martin tells us are also spot on for 00

 

My existing check rail gauges were bought for OO-SF, 2 x long in steel and 2 x brass squares.  I got them years ago from a guy called Russ Simpson in the US along with my original roller gauges. Unfortunately the steel pair are rather pitted due to my liberal use of flux, so I'm looking to replace them.  The EMGS have the longer steel one for a fiver but as mentioned above a set of feeler gauges will be ideal.

 

Cheers

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Tim Dubya said:

 

My existing check rail gauges were bought for OO-SF, 2 x long in steel and 2 x brass squares.  I got them years ago from a guy called Russ Simpson in the US along with my original roller gauges. Unfortunately the steel pair are rather pitted due to my liberal use of flux, so I'm looking to replace them.  The EMGS have the longer steel one for a fiver but as mentioned above a set of feeler gauges will be ideal.

 

Cheers

 

 

 

Are they roller type gauges?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
6 minutes ago, hayfield said:

 

 

Are they roller type gauges?

 

Yes, they're in with these along with those I got from C&L.

Which has got me wondering if Mr C&L might like to stock the flat check rail gauges?

 

IMG_20200707_084840080.jpg

Edited by Tim Dubya
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the correct ones, both check rail gauges and 00SF track gauges by the look of it

 

As for the pitted ones, would a fine sand remove the raised pits on the gauge without thinning the gauge too much, keeping it within the +/- tolerances 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, martin_wynne said:

 

Drill out the rivet on feeler gauges for easier use. You can use 2 together to make any thickness you like -- 0.8mm + 0.4mm = 1.2mm. If you rub them with a magnet they will be magnetized enough to stick together.

 

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rovtop-Feeler-Stainless-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B074J3GWH1

 

Martin.

I think a proper metric set has more useful sizes, eg

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-51701-Blade-Metric-Feeler/dp/B015GVU9LW/ref=pd_sbs_60_4/261-9220183-9562009?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015GVU9LW&pd_rd_r=f7cbedbc-faa4-4b2b-b86f-31c4531d266e&pd_rd_w=gpGXF&pd_rd_wg=kcTSw&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=433D7288QH1RAEWAE2NY&psc=1&refRID=433D7288QH1RAEWAE2NY

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I re did a few vs this morning, much better to the side rather than butted. I have not finish filed these yet or cut the nose. Just experimenting really but each one is getting better.(i think).

IMG_20200707_163146.jpg.55ecf28fb7b0fe1f0b41375c550aeeca.jpg

 

I also made up my common crossing jig.

 

IMG_20200707_192328.jpg.f91f6ba1acf2b2dc9094a2556b65fe2f.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...