ianb3174 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 My biggest youngster has a few 3D printers but I'd have to make the files for him to print, and know very little about making a suitable drawing. I have tried. Presume you are using S Scale Society chairs? Yes they are society chairs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted August 3, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2020 You might try contacting this guy on Shapeways, who produces various chairs for 7mm scale: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/otr 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Lacathedrale said: I wonder if 3D printed chairs would work for those specialist versions? The SSMRS stores has 28thou nickel silver strip for such requirements. It sits under the rail and can be glued to the timbers and the crossing nose soldered to it. Then you can hack about the uppers of the Society chairs to represent the crossing chairs. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 This is what I plan to do in this turnout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 (edited) A stern beating and thinly veiled threats have seen the track gang crack on tonight. Crossing half completed and lovely fine clearances. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Who needs all those fancy chairs anyway. The check rail chairs are cut down standards, alternating between the stock rail and the check rail. the check rail is held in place by 3 chairs over its 5 sleeper length whilst the stock has 2. Then half chairs complete the job. They seem to bond together well with the solvent. A similar process was used on the crossing though it was a bit fiddly to make in situ without jigs. Does this class as ‘experienced’? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSi Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 On 02/08/2020 at 20:05, ianb3174 said: -- There is no appreciable ingress of the glue into the foam layer as far as I can tell. PVA glue dries on the surface over time and forms a very secure bond. I've built temporary structures for sizing etc and they are very robust -- Thanks! Looking forward to seeing the layout finished -- something I've always failed to accomplish pekka Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 9, 2020 Author Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) The permanent way department. led by Arthur Bodgett and his assistant Josiah Scarper have been making the most of the good weather and beer bonus to crack on with the crossover. The inspector was pleased with their efforts. It's quite therapeutic this S Scale. I was musing about the need to make the majority of this from scratch and wasn't phased by it at all*. Loco's may cause me a bit of grief, not having done anything more technical than put a kit body on a RTR chassis. I've got the basic understanding of how to make a coach and buildings are the same in any scale. With 3D printing and laser cutting the tasks should be that much easier, or is that cheating? One question, would my crossover have lengthened wing rails to form the check rails? Or considering this isn't meant to be anything but a rural backwater siding would my version be the common practice? *ok, maybe a bit Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 5 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted August 9, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2020 1 hour ago, ianb3174 said: With 3D printing and laser cutting the tasks should be that much easier, or is that cheating? Only if you think so. How you go about your modelling is entirely up to you! Quote One question, would my crossover have lengthened wing rails to form the check rails? Or considering this isn't meant to be anything but a rural backwater siding would my version be the common practice? I think you gave it right for most prototypes: check and wing rails would be standard components, supplied directly from some stores. But as always, your prototype may vary, and either ask a person knowledgeable about that company, or look at photos from the right era, if you wish to be precisely right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 22, 2020 Author Share Posted August 22, 2020 (edited) Been busy with a myriad of other tasks recently so not much got done. Then the Gazette dropped through the door and I found a bit of momentum. I was watching a fancy setup with a milling tool to cut/shape turnout blades and realised it would take me years to acquire such a machine and get to use it proficiently so I broke out the trusty file and started shaping my own. Then I realised I hadn't put a set bend in the stock rail. I didn't want to remove the whole stock rail after just glueing it down so I've tried to craftily reprofile the blade. No one will notice (I hope) and fewer will be appalled by its omission (I'm sure). The next task is to design/make a robust link between said blade and the TOU pin. I have some ideas, one being a flat section of brass with a hole that sits over the pin then bends upwards 90 degrees and then 90 degrees flat so it sits under the rail. It would extend under the stock rail to prevent it from lifting. There is enough play in the plastic tie bar to alleviate any stresses in use (he hopes) and could be easily maintained without removing the turnout (he's confident). Enough gin soaked ramblings, compare and contrast with your own efforts and offer some critique. Tomorrow I shall be looking at my tax refund and asking why they send a cheque on a Saturday knowing full well that I can't get it in the bank until Monday now. I think another stores order is in 'order'. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 It looks as though you've saved the day. :-) But you might have to check for a wee bit of gauge narrowing when the other stock rail is in place. I think I would just have lifted the errant stock rail and put the set in. Plastic chairs on plywood are quite easy to pop off the sleepers with a sharp blade like a razor blade, and re-stick down when the rail had been bent with the offset. But your trackwork is looking very good. Jim. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 I might actually take it up and put the bend in. Seeing as the Templot plan is clearly screaming at me to do it, and telling me exactly where. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
flubrush Posted August 23, 2020 Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) Another thing that might help you in your tracklaying is the 28thou nickel silver strip in the SSMRS Parts List. This strip can be used under crossings with bits of the plastic chairs to disguise them. But I also liked to use one or two bits as slide chairs, sticking them down to the ply sleepers with Araldite and soldering the stock rails to them. I was always a bit worried with the stock rails over the plastic slide chairs being free to wave around in the breeze. :-) Maybe not so bad in short switches like "A" size, but when you venture into longer switches like "C" and "D", there's a fair length of unsupported stock rail. One metal slide at the toe of the switch and one or two spaced along the length of the switch helped to tie things down. Ot there's the brass slide chair in the lost wax casting of the chair sprue, but that could get expensive with only one slide chair on each sprue. :-) Jim. Edited August 23, 2020 by flubrush Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted August 23, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2020 42 minutes ago, flubrush said: I was always a bit worried with the stock rails over the plastic slide chairs being free to wave around in the breeze. :-) Maybe not so bad in short switches like "A" size, but when you venture into longer switches like "C" and "D", there's a fair length of unsupported stock rail. Hi Jim, Ian, Stock rails can be fixed firmly to moulded slide chairs using Loctite 435 adhesive. See this post from Paul Boyd: https://85a.co.uk/forum/view_topic.php?id=3257#p24474 cheers, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 2 hours ago, flubrush said: Another thing that might help you in your tracklaying is the 28thou nickel silver strip in the SSMRS Parts List. This strip can be used under crossings with bits of the plastic chairs to disguise them. I've used some of this on the crossings. I've also added my set bend to the stock rail now. Looks a lot better and I'm a lot happier. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 (edited) Looking a lot like a real crossover now. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 11 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timber Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 track work looks fantastic 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Really lovely stuff - did you use a jig for the vee rails? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted August 30, 2020 Author Share Posted August 30, 2020 I only used the Templot plan, a file and some pliers. A jig would be lovely but not necessary. To solder the V I use blutack to hold it while I align it and apply solder. A slightly (very) maverick approach but still 100% better than ready made track. On my other thread Drakelow (currently EM-SF) I used jigs for the turnouts and was happy with the consistency. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) I've been quiet for a few weeks due to a rejig of my cellar office/workshop/nerve centre which left my workbench under a pile of things to sort, and didn't get sorted in a timely manner*. Now it's clear enough for a resumption of services. Anyhow, there were some juicy society kits in a box just waiting to be bodged. But what to begin with? An underframe kit? The society plastic wagon kit? Maybe "get on with that track"? I have got the switches to add to the turnouts and a bit of plain track still to lay. I was briefly seduced by some 1/32 modelling which seems a related scale for some odd reason. I then mused about what 1/128 scale may look like before a cul de sac of what ifs, like realising metre gauge in 7mm is very close to 22.42mm. Before all that, a wagon, properly... *work nonsense mainly, a terrible affliction that should be avoided. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted November 17, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2020 7 minutes ago, ianb3174 said: like realising metre gauge in 7mm is very close to 22.42mm. Indeed. 0m is a commercial scale, with track at 22.5mm gauge, which is compatible with S: “Toby” from East Lynn made a progression around a Swiss outline layout at the Northampton exhibition circa 1997/8... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSB Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 24 minutes ago, Regularity said: Indeed. 0m is a commercial scale, with track at 22.5mm gauge, which is compatible with S: “Toby” from East Lynn made a progression around a Swiss outline layout at the Northampton exhibition circa 1997/8... The Bemo 0m range actually users a slightly narrower gauge with finer wheels standards than earlier models. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) Enough excitement for one evening as I manage to fold up some brass without over bending it, ream out some holes without destroying the entire etch, superglue bearings in place without dropping one on the floor (progress) and not sticking my fingers together. I also found some very thin wire for the rocking W iron (wasn't expecting to) and marvelled at how it all might fit together. Tomorrow I begin my search for brake gear instructions. Runs a dream through the crossover though, which is the main thing Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 Replacing lost image 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosedale Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 Great stuff Ian! The S Scale standards are really good and work well. I'll e-mail you the RCH instructions by the way. Regards, Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianb3174 Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 (edited) A sudden rush of blood to the head last night and I finished laying the timbers at the far end of the cameo. Mainly due to my work lamp having a failure and not being able to source a replacement bulb (the only excuse, weak, but I'm sticking by it). I might have a go at putting in some scenic features as well, as long as this work nonsense doesn't impede on my time too much. Edited April 17, 2022 by ianb3174 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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