RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted July 31, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2020 11 minutes ago, davidbr said: The London Road RSU is very good and easy to change the voltage. I made a label for the different combinations which people might find useful: I saw that on your photo earlier and was going to try and replicate it as it's very neatly done. Thank you for posting the original as it were Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 31, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, davidbr said: The London Road RSU is very good and easy to change the voltage. I made a label for the different combinations which people might find useful: Did you create the original version with 2.5v missing off it? I remember downloading it off another forum (I think *think* Scaleforum) but was unable to thank the person who originally came up with it. First thing I then did was add the 2.5v option, then print out and stick on my unit. I think it's the single most useful accessory for this RSU. Edited July 31, 2020 by 57xx Clarity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted July 31, 2020 Share Posted July 31, 2020 5 hours ago, 57xx said: Did you create the original version with 2.5v missing off it? I remember downloading it off another forum (I think *think* Scaleforum) but was unable to thank the person who originally came up with it. First thing I then did was add the 2.5v option, then print out and stick on my unit. I think it's the single most useful accessory for this RSU. Yes, I did. Well remembered! I made the first one using the LRM instructions which omitted 2.5v. Someone told me the arrangement so I added it to the label. The image should fit a sticky Avery label - 10 to an A4 sheet. Sorry, but I don't know the Avery code. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted July 31, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2020 5 minutes ago, davidbr said: Yes, I did. In that case, thank you David! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 On 31/07/2020 at 11:16, Bucoops said: I saw that on your photo earlier and was going to try and replicate it as it's very neatly done. Thank you for posting the original as it were Much neater than my hand scrawling with a permanent marker! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 8 hours ago, doilum said: Much neater than my hand scrawling with a permanent marker! A bit like mine too!! Both on top and on the front case. Works for me! Regards Deano. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 9 hours ago, Deano747 said: A bit like mine too!! Both on top and on the front case. Works for me! Deano. I really like the way you have drawn the links across the sockets, I might do something similar. One of my (minor) irritations with the LRM unit is that the power and footswitch cables always get tangled in their box when I put it away, does anyone have any comment on the wisdom (or otherwise) of converting one or both cables to plug and socket - I was thinking something like a IEC C13 'kettle' lead? Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpgibbons Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 My LRM RSU was supplied at my request with the arrangement you describe, so that I could use a standard female PC mains lead with an Aussie plug. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted August 16, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 16, 2020 I've done a couple of small bits so far with my RSU but time allowed a bit more today so I did the roof vent for my Drewry 04. The metal plate is still a work in progress - I need a countersink bit for steel. When It's done I'll do a proper photo of that. This humid air has made it go rusty already... I've used solder cream for this part, you can see I've already put spacing strips in and then rolled it. Then another amount of cream applied - I used my rolling bar to hold the roof up as of course it's curved. It's stainless steel but has just enough magnetic properties for the magnet to gently hold it. Then away with the RSU. You see a couple of places where I forgot to take my foot off the pedal first - still learning! 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted August 19, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 19, 2020 On 16/08/2020 at 16:42, Bucoops said: Then away with the RSU. You see a couple of places where I forgot to take my foot off the pedal first - still learning! I still do it now and again, seems to be a long built in reaction to using a conventional soldering iron. I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted August 19, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 19, 2020 45 minutes ago, 57xx said: I still do it now and again, seems to be a long built in reaction to using a conventional soldering iron. I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there. Totally agree - although there was still minimal cleaning needed for it. I'm getting the hang of the syringe thing doing some 4mm ventilators. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted August 19, 2020 Share Posted August 19, 2020 12 minutes ago, Bucoops said: I'm getting the hang of the syringe thing doing some 4mm ventilators. I wish that I could !! The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle. Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!? John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium polybear Posted August 20, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 20, 2020 9 hours ago, cctransuk said: I wish that I could !! The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle. Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!? John Isherwood. Or try larger needles - all easily available on ebay. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 10 hours ago, 57xx said: I think you might be able to get away with half the amount of solder cream there. I agree. A blob in each corner and another in the middle of each side. It isn't necessary to solder all the way round, just enough to attach the part. If you use minimal solder - cream or tinning - then there will be little or no cleaning up to do. There is a general tendency to over-do the amount of solder and in many cases, much less can be used. You will save money as well as solder and be able to make more models! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted August 20, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2020 11 hours ago, cctransuk said: I wish that I could !! The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle. Does anyone know of a brand that will come out when the plunger is pressed?!? John Isherwood. How old is your cream? Somewhere someone said it can dry out. I've had my tube for a couple of years but only recently opened it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Just now, Bucoops said: How old is your cream? Somewhere someone said it can dry out. I've had my tube for a couple of years but only recently opened it. It's several years old now - but it was just the same when I bought it; old stock? I've even tried mixing some cream with additional liquid flux, but I can't seem to get on with solder cream at all. I mostly use my soldering iron, but when I do use the RSU I use cut slivers of solid solder. John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Or just tin one surface with the 40W iron using 145 degree solder..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpgibbons Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 On 20/08/2020 at 06:50, cctransuk said: The solder cream stubbornly refuses to proceed down the needle. Most likely it has dried out - the usual shelf life of solder paste is 6 months. I revived mine with flux, but like others here I have had mixed results. It does seem to need more voltage than ordinary 145 solder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I have made a 30 minute guide to resistance soldering which is now available on Virtual Scaleforum 2020 The video is here: https://www.scaleforum.org/demonstrators/david-brandreth-resistance-soldering/ Everything else on offer at Scaleforum can be found here: https://www.scaleforum.org Just for today, questions can be asked on a special part of the Forum. The link is at the top of the Scaleforum page. 1 3 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 On 16/08/2020 at 16:42, Bucoops said: I've done a couple of small bits so far with my RSU but time allowed a bit more today so I did the roof vent for my Drewry 04. The metal plate is still a work in progress - I need a countersink bit for steel. When It's done I'll do a proper photo of that. This humid air has made it go rusty already... I've used solder cream for this part, you can see I've already put spacing strips in and then rolled it. Then another amount of cream applied - I used my rolling bar to hold the roof up as of course it's curved. It's stainless steel but has just enough magnetic properties for the magnet to gently hold it. Then away with the RSU. You see a couple of places where I forgot to take my foot off the pedal first - still learning! For info, I cover my steel plate with tin foil and slide thin card between. a) the foil helps prevent it rusting and b) the card helps to prevent it acting as a big heat-sink! Regards, Deano 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted September 27, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 27, 2020 On 26/09/2020 at 11:34, davidbr said: I have made a 30 minute guide to resistance soldering which is now available on Virtual Scaleforum 2020 The video is here: https://www.scaleforum.org/demonstrators/david-brandreth-resistance-soldering/ Everything else on offer at Scaleforum can be found here: https://www.scaleforum.org Just for today, questions can be asked on a special part of the Forum. The link is at the top of the Scaleforum page. Nice video David, I was having flashbacks to the thread when seeing things like your solebar jig, very simple but ingenious. I like your miniature vice, where is that from? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 1 hour ago, 57xx said: Nice video David, I was having flashbacks to the thread when seeing things like your solebar jig, very simple but ingenious. I like your miniature vice, where is that from? Thank you. I am glad you liked the video. It went down well on Saturday at Scaleforum and will be available, as someone put it, ad nauseam! The small vices I picked up from a second-hand tool shop, sadly no longer. The chap tried selling the business but there was no interest which I find a sad comment on life. However, you can see them again on the w/e 17/18th October when Missenden Railway Modellers are putting on a virtual Weekend. I have set out my tool box for everyone to see. There will be much more, different to most offerings. Details are here: https://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/index.php/autumn-weekend-2020-online-event/ I hope people will put it in their diaries and spread the word. Modelling events are a rare species at the moment. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyH Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) On 26/09/2020 at 11:34, davidbr said: I have made a 30 minute guide to resistance soldering which is now available on Virtual Scaleforum 2020... Thanks David, great video, really useful. Atb andy edited as codes working Edited October 3, 2020 by AndyH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 (edited) Having watched David's contribution to virtual Scalefourum I was inspired... to use the laser cutter! A laser cut front panel in a laminated plastic that gives a similar effect to Traffolyte - I'm not sure I'm very fond of either colour scheme (the only material that was available to me), but the yellow has worked better. The black (cut using the same settings, but without any additional experimentation) hasn't quite engraved as deep, but I suspect there is enough of a witness mark to guide a scraper to deepen the engraved lines a little. Jon Edited September 29, 2020 by jonhall 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbr Posted September 30, 2020 Share Posted September 30, 2020 On 28/09/2020 at 01:24, AndyH said: One minor point, the RS links in the pdf need updating, I think they have changed their product codes. Hi Andy. Glad you found the video useful. Which codes are you saying are incorrect? I have checked them and they all appear correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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