tubs01 Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 So a few hours ago I was taking the chassis off my two Hornby 0-4-0s. A D class and smokey joe. Then I wondered what the D class would look like with outside cylinders. So i cut off the front ladders and voila.Along with that i sanded the roof smooth, and sanded down the buffers so they weren't glossy anymore (seriously why dont Hornby just use metal buffer heads? it can't cost that much.)I did all this so i though why not try and make it into a semi realistic free lance industrial loco? Since it would be nice to try my hand at detailing, and what would be a better start than the infamous 0-4-0? I can always buy another if it goes wrong. I think this could serve as a nice guide for younger, not so experienced modellers like myself on how to detail cheap locos without having to use loads of specialised equipment, e.g. power tools. At the moment I'm thinking of sanding down the moulded handrails and replacing them with ones made from paperclips, and perhaps some new, larger buffer heads made from poster pins? If anyone knows any other ways i could detail him up and just generally make him more realistic, please tell me. I'm sorry if this post isn't that well written, I'm not very good when it comes to large blocks of text. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 That's exactly what I am doing right now! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 I'd be inclined to beef up those cylinders a bit. They're rather weedy for such a chunky loco. Something tubular maybe 1.5-2 x the current diameter would, I think, look about right. Some lamp irons made up from staples would make things look a little "busier" above the front buffer beam and on the bunker back. Drawing pins are one option for big buffers. Another is slabs of thick plasticard (or similar) to represent dumb buffers, which many industrials had, although the Hornby model is, perhaps, a bit modern for such crudities. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 It looks pretty good with outside cylinders, gives it the look of a dock shunter or something, I might try that conversion myself. In addition to the suggestions above, one idea might be replacing the moulded handrails with separately fitted ones. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 9 hours ago, PatB said: I'd be inclined to beef up those cylinders a bit. They're rather weedy for such a chunky loco. Something tubular maybe 1.5-2 x the current diameter would, I think, look about right. Some lamp irons made up from staples would make things look a little "busier" above the front buffer beam and on the bunker back. Drawing pins are one option for big buffers. Another is slabs of thick plasticard (or similar) to represent dumb buffers, which many industrials had, although the Hornby model is, perhaps, a bit modern for such crudities. Yeah the cylinders are a bit too small for my liking. I'm thinking about finding a way of using the cylinders from the kitmaster pug, since then the valve gear would look a little more realistic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 4 hours ago, HonestTom said: It looks pretty good with outside cylinders, gives it the look of a dock shunter or something, I might try that conversion myself. In addition to the suggestions above, one idea might be replacing the moulded handrails with separately fitted ones. I do plan on replacing the handrails at some point, I was thinking about using paperclips since my friend has made some decent handrails from paperclips in the past. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, tubs01 said: I'm sorry if this post isn't that well written, I'm not very good when it comes to large blocks of text. Looks like your doing alright to me my friend. Interesting work and well presented keep it up I'm looking forward to what's coming next Steve Edited July 7, 2020 by Londontram Spelling corrections 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 1 hour ago, Londontram said: Looks like your doing alright to me my friend. Interesting work and well presented keep it up I'm looking forward to what's coming next Steve thanks! when i got the notification saying you replied i was expecting it to be you having a go at me so it was a nice surprise! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 With not much effort or skill you could even have an 0-6-0. Here's mine 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 Update time! New buffers, coal and a driver! plus a slimline coupling 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 8, 2020 Author Share Posted July 8, 2020 You can also see the drawing pin heads which will be used as bufferheads Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 Not been much change since the last update, so here's another project I'm working on.I'm trying to find some way of making a bogie that can swivel while taking up almost 0 space. If anyone has any ideas, they would be much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 3 hours ago, tubs01 said: Not been much change since the last update, so here's another project I'm working on.I'm trying to find some way of making a bogie that can swivel while taking up almost 0 space. If anyone has any ideas, they would be much appreciated. For that particular case, I'd be looking at pivoting a long, flat arm from a point roughly centred between the driving axles. I haven't got a Hornby 0-4-0 chassis for reference, but it looks from the photo as if there'd be enough clearance between rail tops and chassis bottom for a strip of brass or .040" styrene sheet. That way you don't have to worry about fitting stuff into the limited space under the front of the loco, and you'll probably find the bogie wheels will track better with a generous swing radius. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TangoOscarMike Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 6 hours ago, tubs01 said: Not been much change since the last update, so here's another project I'm working on.I'm trying to find some way of making a bogie that can swivel while taking up almost 0 space. If anyone has any ideas, they would be much appreciated. With those dimensions, maybe it doesn't need to swivel. Consider the 0-6-0s, that have much longer wheel bases without any side-play. I suggest you put the original 0-4-0 on a curved piece of track, and turn it left and right about a vertical axis. The amount of movement you get should give you a clue as to how much swivel you need - maybe none. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted July 11, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hi, Just a suggestion, but would it be worth trying a conversion to an 0-4-2st? When the Caley first ordered theirs the first two (nos. 262 and 263) were built with a trailing axle, full cab, and bunker. Initially they worked the Killin Branch until replaced with larger, and heavier, locomotives. If you Google 'Caley Pug' you should find some options and ideas. In practical terms you could look to mount the axle with enough sideplay to avoid building a bogie or pony truck. Have a look for pics of a Hornby 14xx/48xx tank to see what I mean. Hope that's of use. Regards, Alex. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justang Posted July 11, 2020 Share Posted July 11, 2020 2 hours ago, Alex TM said: Just a suggestion, but would it be worth trying a conversion to an 0-4-2st? When the Caley first ordered theirs the first two (nos. 262 and 263) were built with a trailing axle, full cab, and bunker. Initially they worked the Killin Branch until replaced with larger, and heavier, locomotives. If you Google 'Caley Pug' you should find some options and ideas. The cab design of the Caley 262 class is quite similar to the cab on a Triang Nellie. One could put a Nellie cab on a Smokey Joe to make a model similar to the prototype. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 5 hours ago, TangoOscarMike said: With those dimensions, maybe it doesn't need to swivel. Consider the 0-6-0s, that have much longer wheel bases without any side-play. I suggest you put the original 0-4-0 on a curved piece of track, and turn it left and right about a vertical axis. The amount of movement you get should give you a clue as to how much swivel you need - maybe none. I tested it on some second radius and it did swivel a little bit. There's not really much room underneath the chassis due to the cog fitted on the front axle Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 3 hours ago, Alex TM said: Hi, Just a suggestion, but would it be worth trying a conversion to an 0-4-2st? When the Caley first ordered theirs the first two (nos. 262 and 263) were built with a trailing axle, full cab, and bunker. Initially they worked the Killin Branch until replaced with larger, and heavier, locomotives. If you Google 'Caley Pug' you should find some options and ideas. In practical terms you could look to mount the axle with enough sideplay to avoid building a bogie or pony truck. Have a look for pics of a Hornby 14xx/48xx tank to see what I mean. Hope that's of use. Regards, Alex. I have actually made an 0-4-2 before from an 0-4-0, however it was the GWR 101 instead of the 264. As for converting it into a Killin pug, There doesn't seem to be enough room at the back. I have seen it done before, but it's way out of my skill. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 11, 2020 Author Share Posted July 11, 2020 The bufferheads I used before (the heads from some drawing pins) were a bit too big, so for the whille, the modified D class is without bufferheads. I'm going to order some Hornby screw link couplings for decorating, and I'll probably see if I can find some vacuum pipes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 I dont know who did it others on here will know but a few years back you could buy a resin body shell for the Killin pug I've no idear if it's still available. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 (edited) On 11/07/2020 at 14:29, tubs01 said: The bufferheads I used before (the heads from some drawing pins) were a bit too big, so for the whille, the modified D class is without bufferheads. I'm going to order some Hornby screw link couplings for decorating, and I'll probably see if I can find some vacuum pipes. I remember reading somewhere about someone using a hole punch on thin plasticard to create buffer heads, but can’t remember if those were for wagons or a loco. Might be worth trying if the drawing pin heads looked a little too big? I do like the look of your 0-4-0 though - looking forward to seeing how you progress it! Steve S Edited July 13, 2020 by SteveyDee68 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted July 13, 2020 Share Posted July 13, 2020 10 hours ago, Londontram said: I dont know who did it others on here will know but a few years back you could buy a resin body shell for the Killin pug I've no idear if it's still available. It's a Dean Sidings kit. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted July 13, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2020 47 minutes ago, HonestTom said: It's a Dean Sidings kit. At some point it should be available through Phoenix Precision, as they took over the range. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 Tiny Update: New coupling has been glued to the D class 'Jack' bc the old one fell off and I think my mum hoovered it up. As for the 2-4-0 smokey joe, that project has been put on hold. i have an idea to 'remake' an 0-4-2 from a gwr 101. I say remake because I have done it before with exact same body. It just needs a new chassis then I can add the trailing wheel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubs01 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 So, another project. It's not really much of a 'project' mind you, I'm just going to be repainting a Hornby 101. I've made a mockup of what it's going to look like which is attached below. Feedback appreciated. -Tubs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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