How not to solder, American style.

[Theakerr]

Haven't got round to watching the Ken Paterson video yet but over the years he has done some pretty neat stuff including a lot of things that are a bit 'off the wall'.   IMOHP NA layouts tend to jammed full because they tend to be operations focused.  Some do it very well

 

some not so well.  It should also be remembered that some pretty good stuff comes out of the US, Kadee Couplings, Woodlands Scenics and I think it fair to say DCC and again IMOHP often initially poo pooed because it is American.  Right now i can think of at least two that seem to be studiously being ignored.  Specifically the ready made point system that allows for one extra track in the same length for a storage siding, something I would have thought of great interest to UK modellers with their smaller spaces.  Then there is the vacuum pipe/brake system that actually couples the pipes together.  I would have expected this to have taken off in the UK where there is a great focus on detail, especially the EM and P4 People and the 'Scale' 00 People

[doilum]

Thanks for posting. For the first time I feel like a soldering "god".

For the benefit of those new to soldering or plucking up the courage to have a go, this is an almost perfect how NOT to do it lesson. Take the RSU demonstration:

Clean both the strip and the tube. Apply flux to the tube and tin with the tiniest amount of solder. Apply flux to the strip, earth, and hold the tube in place with s lolly stick or similar. Zap with RSU and watch the tiniest seam of solder appear. Perfect job. 

Using acid flux on a complete running loco????? 'Fraid not! The only way to neutralise the flux is with CIF or similar and copious amounts of water otherwise all the mechanism becomes the victim of the green gunge.

The only purpose of this rant is for the benefit of those just about to try soldering for the first time.

Edited July 14, 2020 by doilum
Additional information

[brossard]

I think anyone who is the least bit serious about railway modelling needs to get comfortable with soldering.  At the very least, wires need to be attached to track.

 

The ability to construct an etched brass kit is an achievement for any modeller.  You do need some basic instruction.  I recall eating up Rice's Etched Chassis Construction book and followed his advice to the letter to get started in soldering.  Worked a treat.  I no longer use acid flux, preferring the non acid type.

 

John

[F-UnitMad]

2 hours ago, Theakerr said:

Specifically the ready made point system that allows for one extra track in the same length for a storage siding,

Maybe something's being lost in the description, but can you explain further, because I for one don't know/can't visualise what you're on about?  

[57xx]

15 hours ago, doilum said:

Clean both the strip and the tube. Apply flux to the tube and tin with the tiniest amount of solder. Apply flux to the strip, earth, and hold the tube in place with s lolly stick or similar. Zap with RSU and watch the tiniest seam of solder appear. Perfect job. 

 

Large blobs of wasted solder aside, his main failing there, IMO, is using the RSU probe like a regular soldering iron/arc welder and taking it to the work whilst live. He should be applying the probe, then tapping the footswitch to zap it, not getting into some weird contorted position to keep his foot permanently on the switch and then touching the work piece creating a load of sparks.

 

When doing small detail parts, you can use the probe itself as the holding tool. One quick tap of the pedal and the detail is attached exactly where you want it, no risk of it moving.

[doilum]

1 hour ago, 57xx said:

 

Large blobs of wasted solder aside, his main failing there, IMO, is using the RSU probe like a regular soldering iron/arc welder and taking it to the work whilst live. He should be applying the probe, then tapping the footswitch to zap it, not getting into some weird contorted position to keep his foot permanently on the switch and then touching the work piece creating a load of sparks.

 

When doing small detail parts, you can use the probe itself as the holding tool. One quick tap of the pedal and the detail is attached exactly where you want it, no risk of it moving.

Agree entirely. I recall the first time I tried to fix a handrail knob ( in the theory a perfect task for the RSU) and watched the tiny casting evaporate in a big white flash. It is all about learning about what it WON'T do. 

[pete_mcfarlane]

If you want decent lead free solder, try some of the stuff with a small percentage of silver in it. I've been using this for a couple of years, and have really good results. 

 

I got mine from CPC and it was about £50 for a big reel, which at the current rate of progress should last me at least another 5 years of etched kit building.