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In Support of 'O' gauge in Dorset


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Ahh, Obviously scanned pwr's message too quickly, so one could say even worse if you buy

fully finished RTR. Although forgive me as my Dapol '00' purchases have been either kits,

or unpainted. I obviously spend too long with my nose in a pile of bits.

 

A few '00' Ratio kit built wagons in the background, BUT :-

 

I have started the Parkside 16ton steel mineral, quite a lot easier to see !!

 

IMG_3975.JPG.887b3029d147a71758739e39ce22c00e.JPG

 

Must remember to clean my glasses !!

 

Geoff T.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

With Lock-Down end in sight I need to push on with this Club Test Loop.

I always intended on having strong fencing along the 'plank', one club member has

a 4-6-0 and it must be secure from being accidently knocked off the plank to the floor.

I pre-drilled holes to give an interference fit on 65 x 3.35 nails. Nail heads are cut off

and I used a 4" all steel 'G' clamp to press in, leaving 6 Ft scale (42 mm) high. When all

the grass edging is in place I'll string these posts with 15 lb fishing nylon. Still not certain

about the number of strands, somewhere between 8 and 10 depending how quickly I

get tired of doing it !!

 

Nails just resting in the drilled holes.

 

IMG_3995.JPG.513c0041f36e5ffebb067a7d648b9517.JPG

 

All pressed in and roughly painted

 

IMG_3999.JPG.42c1c50b3961e69685c3e22e5b68482e.JPG

 

Here the 'grass' is still wet with PVA/Water

 

IMG_4004.JPG.ea559a6117d51969fceff437eadc390d.JPG

 

I'm running low and last evening had to buy several different scatters. Can't do much more until they arrive. Had to use 3 different traders to get all the differing products, it'll be like Christmas this coming week !! 

 

Geoff T.

Edited by Dad-1
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Thank you Gentlemen for the 'Likes'.

Obviously unable to do more 'grass' laying until my additional supplies arrive. What I have

done over the weekend is prepare the next middle board by drilling another 36 holes, cutting

the heads off the required nails and press into place. Finally paint the varnish with dark earth

coloured paint.  Next, tomorrow I shall add the sand based 'gravel' alongside the ballasted

track ready for the arrival of my replacement scatter.

 

Perhaps tonight I'll find that part built 16 ton mineral, I've forgotten how far I've got !!

 

Geofft.

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I've a long way to go with these wagons. However more grass edging laid today.

This is to try and embarrass myself so much I keep working on it.

 

IMG_4014.JPG.be2053ff59ca39d48f891f8525151582.JPG

 

I've also booked the West Bay, Bridport "Salt House" for a club open day come mini exhibition

on 8th August. Fingers crossed nothing happens to our Pandemic progress.

 

Geoff T.

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For reasons that it's difficult to pinpoint I've been rather slow in getting on with this

project. Last evening I added the last few detail parts to my Peco PS30 16 ton mineral

wagon build. Now to check out what running number I'll be using.

Another annoying discrepancy came to light when I checked out the decal sheet. It

immediately struck me that the decal sheet had floor located hopper markings , then

the numbering sequence was 'wrong'.  After having made about 30 '00' kits of 16 tonners

you get to know the ranges for diagram 1/108 wagons. The numbers on MY decal sheet

were for diagram 1/100 Slope Sided 16 ton minerals AND the sheet was marked as being

for a PS73 kit ???? I checked my last Peco issue advertising leaflet and there is no PS73

kit shown.

Is this wrong sheet by accident or design ???? Are they getting past, or future decal sheets

packed by accident, or just using up what is on the shelf ??

As I've said earlier I've had SO many minor problems on my small 'O' scale journey into

wagon kits that I'm happy it's a very limited project. More minor faults than in more than

150+ '00' wagons.

Anyway, painting starts this evening.

 

Geoff T.

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In my experience with 7mm kits, you always have to be prepared to adapt scrap etches etc... to complete the model to a particular prototype. Some producers supply instructions that, at a glance, appear entirely interchangeable with the local Chinese takeaway flier. It's part of the 'fun'. 

 

Cheers 

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  • 2 weeks later...

H Woodyfox,

 

I've had a look through your work, me I'm keeping well away from Brass !! 

 

That non-matching decal sheet easily made up a number set suitable for a Pressed Steel

made wagon from 1950, B75442.

The last decals went on tonight and had a Microsol treatment so I couldn't touch the exterior.

Being impatient I decided to weather the interior and just add rust dabs on exterior hinges.

Those rust dabs will be much less obvious when I weather the chassis and outside.

 

IMG_4022.JPG.d58c5f235e5b2b5878b56835f96ebed3.JPG

 

Geoff T.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've still not finished my wagons. I keep jumping from project to project, one day some will be finished !

Here is a short video of a walk-down the clubs 16 foot plank.

Is it becoming almost a layout ??

The difficult decision is how to work the points ? I'd go digital, but it's been built for the club so others

requirements are significant. Questions now being asked.

 

I will admit much of my time has been spent working on 4 mm scale ! 

 

 

Geoff T.

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I've now progressed to a test of patience job, in fact the last significant component before I'll say this

Club's test loop is finished.

I'll start with a question. Has anyone found a fast setting glue that'll hold Nylon fishing line ??

My testing job is stringing all the fence posts. I've found even a fair quality superglue is poor at setting

and in particular holding nylon fishing line to steel fence posts. I start with a knot to tie on then add

some Loctite, this just about works because of the knot. I loop around each nail (That's what my fence

posts are) and then loop around a couple of times on the last post and add superglue. I've found that even

after being left overnight the glue can't stop the wrap-around from gradually unwinding it's self !!

The greenish fishing nylon doesn't look right so I'll be finishing each wire with a coat of aluminium paint

to look like galvanised wire.

 

 

 

IMG_4045.JPG.c792232e308843f8971c4e5eb559a9c2.JPG

 

I thought I'd mention a 7 mm building kit supplier '422 Modelmaking' that I've come across. They

do several kits in resin, with 3 small huts at very affordable prices. I chose the corrugated tin hut,

very simple and the parts need some fettling, but at just under a tenner I don't think you'll find

better. Certainly they met my requirements and here are a couple of photos. I've not finished it

yet, more painting to do. The ridge is my own addition where a thin kebab section fills the ridge

and then covered with a watered down PVA soaked strip of newspaper. Currently just painted

with aluminium paint.

 

IMG_4046.JPG.0bfe26f947f333a48f0546ff1f641d5f.JPG

 

IMG_4047.JPG.843c2b6e176ddfb9b6bb2e3c457603eb.JPG

 

It's final resting place to be arranged later when the base will be sealed into the ground.

 

Geoff T.

 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Adrian,

 

I need to replace my glue dispenser so I'll give Gorilla a try.

Over 250 feet of fencing wires to add, that's why I kept to only 7 strand fencing.

 

Geoff T.

Edited by Dad-1
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  • 3 weeks later...

While I was unhappy with cyno glue working on nylon fishing line under tension I drifted off

to do more 4 mm scale stuff. Today was foul, to keep myself busy indoors I took one board

into the kitchen to finish the fence wiring.

To photograph I put one wagon on to help show up the fine fence wires.

 

IMG_4062.JPG.da747a733a57bae72e70f2209d8498de.JPG

 

To save my sanity I've put just 7 strands. Now I see that I've not painted all the track !!

Still loads to do 

 

Geoff T.

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On 30/04/2021 at 17:51, Dad-1 said:

I've now progressed to a test of patience job, in fact the last significant component before I'll say this

Club's test loop is finished.

I'll start with a question. Has anyone found a fast setting glue that'll hold Nylon fishing line ??

My testing job is stringing all the fence posts. I've found even a fair quality superglue is poor at setting

and in particular holding nylon fishing line to steel fence posts. I start with a knot to tie on then add

some Loctite, this just about works because of the knot. I loop around each nail (That's what my fence

posts are) and then loop around a couple of times on the last post and add superglue. I've found that even

after being left overnight the glue can't stop the wrap-around from gradually unwinding it's self !!

The greenish fishing nylon doesn't look right so I'll be finishing each wire with a coat of aluminium paint

to look like galvanised wire.

 

 

 

IMG_4045.JPG.c792232e308843f8971c4e5eb559a9c2.JPG

 

I thought I'd mention a 7 mm building kit supplier '422 Modelmaking' that I've come across. They

do several kits in resin, with 3 small huts at very affordable prices. I chose the corrugated tin hut,

very simple and the parts need some fettling, but at just under a tenner I don't think you'll find

better. Certainly they met my requirements and here are a couple of photos. I've not finished it

yet, more painting to do. The ridge is my own addition where a thin kebab section fills the ridge

and then covered with a watered down PVA soaked strip of newspaper. Currently just painted

with aluminium paint.

 

IMG_4046.JPG.0bfe26f947f333a48f0546ff1f641d5f.JPG

 

IMG_4047.JPG.843c2b6e176ddfb9b6bb2e3c457603eb.JPG

 

It's final resting place to be arranged later when the base will be sealed into the ground.

 

Geoff T.

 

Hi Geoff,

Been following your thread with interest love the simplicity of the loop and your kit building.

I to highly recommend 422 modelmaking from Hull, he has built my signal box, goods shed and station building.

I to also have a small shed from him to build. Great work

Regards

Julian.

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