97xx Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 I have found a few comments relating to the above where the thread on the crankpin isn't cut close enough to the boss to allow the threaded bush to be done up properly. Having waited an eternity to receive them, it seems they're unusable. I am using the correct slotted Markits driver, and there is no doing them up 'a touch more'! Looking at the attached, could anyone confirm that this is a known issue? In other words, I'm not missing something obvious am I? Thanks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
97xx Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) Have come up with a solution that doesn't require sending back and more time wasted: Bit of 20 SWG copper wire inserted into crankpin spinner, and cut to be just proud. Top hat slid onto wire and located onto prongs of spinner Counterbored with No. 1 centre drill (.125" shank, .047" dia pilot) Top hat nuts now do down right onto crankpin boss. (Sorry images not in right order... ...but you'll see the outcome) Edited July 18, 2020 by 97xx Added size details for centre drill 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted July 18, 2020 Share Posted July 18, 2020 Counterboring works for me. I just use a small drill bit in a pin vice while holding the crankpin in another one. It doesn't need much. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 18, 2020 I had this issue, thankfully not with all of them, and I like this solution. Whatever you do, DON'T try and screw them too tightly, you will break the crankpin off. (how do I know this...?) I have also had a similar issue with the crankpin not screwing fully into the wheel. Similarly this can be cured by counter-boring the wheel, and/or running a 10ba tap through the wheel, in case the thread isnt fully cut. Cheers, Dave. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
97xx Posted July 18, 2020 Author Share Posted July 18, 2020 (edited) Not only has the producer a serious attitude problem, the product is not fit for purpose. Why should we waste our time fixing something we have paid someone else to produce? Edited July 18, 2020 by 97xx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 While I sympathize with your minor inconvenience with these crank pins it's hardly worthy of a personal attack on the proprietor of the cottage industry who supplied them - a polite email requesting a replacement set is likely all that was required. The hobby would be all the poorer for it if suppliers such as this were to throw in the towel - something I'd think we can all agree on. Paul A. 2 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
97xx Posted July 21, 2020 Author Share Posted July 21, 2020 19 hours ago, JimRead said: Hello 97xx, I had some of these didn't like the way they worked. I used them on an 0 gauge little loco with old Hornby wheels, the crank pins screw into the threaded wheels and I Araldited two others into the plain bore ones. I got some nuts slightly bigger than the thread and soldered them in using the old bits of paper idea, worked a treat and so simple. Cheers - Jim Good point Jim - I have to say the top hats are a little deep for my liking and I too have eyed up my supply of 14BA nuts... I could try to shorten the top hats but that means another round of counterboring and this might end up with too few turns to be secure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Most of my locos cost me less than a set of these crank pins. I have used Triang coupling rod screws with small, 10ba ? washers for the past 30 odd years on Romford wheels. Counter boring may work for the experts but I can guarantee I would destroy the nut, have the nut fly across the room never to be seen again, and drill a hole in my finger if I tried it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I have to say I'm quite happy with the standard ones, and just a washer or sliver of brass tube to retain the rod. The more complicated something is the more likely it is to go wrong! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swanriverwine Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Hi all, reading through your comments has certainly answered a few questions I had of my own, in particular salvaging Sharman wheels with broken studs. Recently purchased set of Gibson wheel crankpin screws, bushings and nuts only to find the nut slip on the screws hence no fastening. There is a thread form visible so I tried them on the Romford Super Deluxe Crankpins and to which they fit precisely, I can't find the thread size of the Romford product so I assume they are 14 BA. I'm aware looking at the dimensions they can be used together. I've looked at the dimensions which doesn't explain why Gibson Nut don't work on a Gibson screw, Gibson screw is 0.95mm while the Romford is 0.98 Diameter. Physically it does explain that the Gibson 1mm nuts fit the 14BA screw. Anyone have such problems and how did you solve it. I'm reluctant to contact Gibsons as his telephone manner is not what I expect from a customer focus business. I have used on a number of occasions of many years these screws and nut without any problem which seem to have accrued in recent times. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Moore Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 I have tried them once & I wouldn't bother again. They are over fussy if I am honest I think the standard crankpin he does is just fine & have used these many times over the years without issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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