RobinofLoxley Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 Only recently I was reading about how easy the chassis was to reassemble when replacing the plastic drive bushes. However I took the precaution of making some notes, but they didnt help me as I have had 2 tries to reassemble but the loco stops after about 1cm as the wheels lock up. Does anyone have a plan of the position all the wheels should be in when reassembled as I could be on trial and error for days. A pair of photos would be beyond useful, thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amand Posted July 19, 2020 Share Posted July 19, 2020 Depending upon the age of the model the ends of the wheels and axles will either be plain round tubes (one with a gear moulded on), or have square centres. Either way when the wheels on one side are at either 12 o'clock (or 6 o'clock) the other side wheels should be at either 3 or 9 o'clock - that's 90 degrees difference. Mechanically it doesn't matter which side leads. The plastic axles with square centres are the easiest to set up, as the 90 degree increments are pre-defined. However, the axles are prone to cracking down the sides, which can result in wheels locking up, or falling off. Just a hairline crack can give issues. If the wheels are not a tight fit on the axles and they are the square centre ones then contact Bachmann in Barwell, asking for "axle isolators". If the axles are round then try Peter Spares, though I could see axles for the Manor loco there was nothing for the Hall. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinofLoxley Posted July 19, 2020 Author Share Posted July 19, 2020 OK so set them 90 degrees apart. They have square centres and seem to be a good fit - quite hard to push home but not requiring a hammer! I will post success/failure in a day or so. Many thanks. No sign of axle cracks, I had the whole thing in bits to have a look; I think the old bushes had cracked, the loco had been stored not used (allegedly, but no sign of discolouration on the wheel contact surfaces so maybe true) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 20, 2020 Share Posted July 20, 2020 As far as I know Bachmann axles had square ends. It was the original Mainline axles which had round ends The wheels on the round end ones slipped round and get out of synch, while the square ends don't slip but the wheels fall off within 30 minutes of being taken from the box in the case of the last new one I had. Basically if one of these splt chassis locos ain't broke don't fix it. It will break soon enough. However you have passed the point of no return. so... Be careful with lubricant, any non conductive oil will quickly cause problems. I fitted pickups from the chassis halves to the wheel backs on my surviving Bachmann split chassis locos, Manor, Lord Nelson, B1, as long as the wheels are a good fit and the pickups pressure not too great it can make a huge difference, tens of hours trouble free running. I haven't done a Hall but either I drill and tap the chassis halves to take phosphor bronze strips or hang them on the valve gear so they bear on two wheel backs and against the chassis. Washers to control end float on the axles is also a good idea if you don't have set track points. Your wheels sound like they are a good fit but if the wheels are a loose fit then either it needs new axles or it is probably beyond saving. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinofLoxley Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Thanks for both sets of comments. The loco is running Ok now with Armand's advice, many thanks, although I notice a slight wobble. Probably one set of wheels is slightly out of alignment but its hard to spot which set as it rolls by. Of more importance is getting the thing to stay on the track, as the front bogie is far too light and jumps off if one of the neighbours coughs. The tender is prone to derail too. My track laying isn't the best but my tender drives will do 25 laps (at least 500M) without derailing. There doesnt seem to be an off the shelf solution so I suppose I will look to lead flashing or something to fashion a weight that can hang on the front wheel pair of the bogie. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 Only just read this but if it makes you feel any better my Wraysbury Hall also has a tender that will randomly derail itself. I haven’t found out why yet but I think it is either a back to back issue or the loco draw bar. Meantime it sits in the loco shed yard looking pretty! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR-fan Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 On 25/09/2020 at 02:33, JST said: Only just read this but if it makes you feel any better my Wraysbury Hall also has a tender that will randomly derail itself. I haven’t found out why yet but I think it is either a back to back issue or the loco draw bar. Meantime it sits in the loco shed yard looking pretty! I have had several derail and found that more weight is needed over the front of the tender chassis. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 6 hours ago, GWR-fan said: I have had several derail and found that more weight is needed over the front of the tender chassis. Thanks. I will give it a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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