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Whitemetal Kit Louvers


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Before I build this 4mm 51L NER perishable goods van whitemetal kit, I want to know what you guys do about the louvre vents on the sides and ends. Is it best to drill them out or just paint them to give the appearance of open slots. If you do drill them which tool would be best suited for this as it is a 4mm kit so they need to be cut very finely. Here’s a pic from the wizard models web store

F9DECCE3-3CC2-4F66-86AB-20C49D2D521D.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Steamport Southport said:

I would just leave them. The real slots are very thin.

 

I wouldn't painstakingly paint them but wash a bit of thinned paint into them as a form of weathering. Then wipe clear before it dries so the paint is just in the slots.

 

 

 

Jason

I was actually just thinking that. Thanks

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13 hours ago, niteshadex said:

Before I build this 4mm 51L NER perishable goods van whitemetal kit, I want to know what you guys do about the louvre vents on the sides and ends. Is it best to drill them out or just paint them to give the appearance of open slots. If you do drill them which tool would be best suited for this as it is a 4mm kit so they need to be cut very finely. Here’s a pic from the wizard models web store

F9DECCE3-3CC2-4F66-86AB-20C49D2D521D.jpeg

 

Louvres are rarely, if ever, see-through; they are sloping, overlapping slats.

 

That is why etched-through louvres are so unconvincing - you could not see through the real things, and they should not appear as simple bars across an opening.

 

John Isherwood.

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Usually, something that represents the outer faces of the louvres and darkness in between is fine. In etched kits, bars for the outer faces and black card to stop light showing between. Neatness is perhaps more important than accuracy. I once made actual, slatted louvres for some fruit vans and it didn't look any better than moulded grooves; I could have let in a solid panel with some engraving.

 

The louvre faces in the 51L sample are not so neat. I'd be inclined to cut them out and to substitute a scribed panel. 

Edited by Guy Rixon
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I found that running a sharp soft pencil along the bottom edge of the raised bit and some of the inner face gives an impression of a shadow formed by each slat. Easier than painting, gives a sharper edge.

 

Not my original idea, but I can't remember where I picked the tip up from. 

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