EFE Rail launches Austerities and J94 in 00

[tomparryharry]

I picked up a Mountain Ash No.8 when they first came out. Mountain Ash No.2 (Haulwen ) would make an ideal pairing. Finding a no.8 would be difficult in the extreme, and there's no way I'd submit the poor loco to my 'tender mercies.....

 

Yes, I'd like a few more. I wonder if we could have some, where the shell is unpainted? There could well be a market for that sort of thing. 

[John M Upton]

I would dearly like to see undecorated options for loco models but manufacturers have offered them in the past and now shy away from them, citing extra production costs for smaller sales, etc.

 

Best option these days is to purchase a model that is in a plain base livery with few markings to remove and start from there.

Edited May 9, 2021 by John M Upton

[tomparryharry]

54 minutes ago, John M Upton said:

I would dearly like to see undecorated options for loco models but manufacturers have offered them in the past and now shy away from them, citing extra production costs for smaller sales, etc.

 

Best option these days is to purchase a model that is in a plain base livery with few markings to remove and start from there.

 

I think the largest problem for manufacturers releasing undecorated samples, is the high probability of someone trying to 'pass off' a highly bodged up example of their product as the mass-released article.  We all know about some exquisite artwork, but some will be AAARGH! And, top dollar, as well.... You only have to surf over to 'Bay to see Michelangelo's 'Black Period '. 

 

I should have bought some NQP models from 'The Entrepreneur' when I had the chance. Still, there we go.... 

[Ravenser]

On 07/01/2021 at 19:04, montyburns56 said:

 

It certainly looks like it. Perhaps some clever retailers could sell them together as a pack.

 

 

 

 

 

An outsider's comment:

 

If these shots are the same loco, and the same loco as the EFE model, then the front buffer beam is the same red as the coupling rods. Not yellow as EFE have done

 

The blue is seems a litt;le lighter than EFE's rendering, although I takle the point about bluie fading badly. And the yellow seems rather darker on the real thing. I think it's the yellow that's the real issue. A minor point - the saddle tanks on the real thing seem quite shiny compared to the matt finish of the EFE model.

 

I'm not questioning the authenticity of EFE's livery , which may well be colour matched. It's just that the result on the model sets my teeth on edge on a way I don't recall with any other RTR of recent years, and in a way the more muted pastel effect on the photos of the real thing doesn't.

 

As to remedial action, I can only suggest painting the front buffer beam and buffer stocks in a suitable scarlet, a thin wash of gloss varnish on the saddle tank, followed by weathering. I'm no expert on weathering , but I would be sorely tempted to apply a very thin wash of a more suitable yellow over all the yellow parts to adjust the colour , then perhaps (if I had one) a light airbrush weathering over the whole loco to tone it down

[AY Mod]

3 hours ago, Ravenser said:

If these shots are the same loco, and the same loco as the EFE model, then the front buffer beam is the same red as the coupling rods. Not yellow as EFE have done

 

 

Apart from when it was yellow.

 

 

[woodenhead]

8 minutes ago, AY Mod said:

 

Apart from when it was yellow.

 

 

But EFE have failed to put in the additional lighting on the boiler and the cab roof

[Les1952]

8 hours ago, woodenhead said:

But EFE have failed to put in the additional lighting on the boiler and the cab roof

 

out of gauge lighting at that.....

 

 

[gpplumy]

On 09/05/2021 at 22:50, Les1952 said:

 

out of gauge lighting at that.....

 

 

It folds down when needed

[Ruston]

These things have been available for a while now, time enough for any faults to be revealed. Are they any good as far as the running qualities are concerned? I've heard horror stories about the original DJ Models version, so I am not sure about buying one of these.

I'm looking at the motor in the photo that Porcy posted and it doesn't fill me with confidence. In fact it looks like something out of a Christmas cracker!

 

What do these models weigh, in grammes?

 

Has anyone fitted sound into one and if they have, how difficult a job is it?

 

 

[NHY 581]

I'm curious about these as well. 

 

I really wanted a Mountain Ash no. 8 from the Hattons examples but didn't  take the plunge due to the poor reputation the DJ Models examples had. 

 

Rob. 

 

 

[Steamport Southport]

Mine's fantastic. The only thing I can say is they are a bit expensive compared to other similar models. Things such as the injectors are a bit crude and could have been revamped. I'll replace them with RT Models parts eventually.

 

I got the blue and yellow NCB one and it's not plasticky looking in real life as it looks in some photos. It has a decent finish.

 

I can't help with things like sound as I'm DC.

 

 

I'm afraid I don't have scales. But a quick holding of other models that are at hand. A little bit lighter than a Bachmann 57XX 0-6-0PT and about the same as an Airfix 14XX 0-4-2T. Sorry non GWR modellers, that's what was out. I would say in about the range of a similar sized RTR model.

 

 

 

Jason

[Les1952]

Mine is extremely good- I only have the one of these at the moment.

 

Having said that my main problems with DJM Austerities were 100% self-inflicted, in all cases except one plastic handrails not standing my hamfistedness too well- the EFE has the same weakness.  The one exception was underneath a glass jar of thinners that got knocked off a high shelf and broke.  Moral keep thinners nearer floor level. This one needed a replacement tank from Digitrains and an RT Models Lambton cab.

 

The problems with occasional stalling I had with DJMs passed on to the EFE but have been cured in all instances by fitting a stay-alive, indicating track might have been the cause of the problem rather than the locos.  That also fettled stalling issues with Hornby WD saddletanks which share the roster- now ten sound-fitted strong (1 EFE, 5 DJM and 3 Hornby) with the same number boxed up to go at (mostly Hornby but 2 Dapol and one DJM)...

 

Les

 

Edited July 8, 2021 by Les1952

[samfieldhouse]

It's a shame the drive mechanism hasn't been modified.

 

The issue with my original copy was the 6-wheel drive system. Gradient or no, it was just a pants runner.

I removed the 6 wheel drive system and reduced it to 2 wheel drive, letting the coupling rods do their job, and it runs beautifully. 

To my mind, just massively over engineered.

I'd really like Wagoner, but I have little faith in DJM. I'm just returning an O2 Calbourne as it's arrived with a warped running plate 

[peterfgf]

7 hours ago, samfieldhouse said:

It's a shame the drive mechanism hasn't been modified.

 

The issue with my original copy was the 6-wheel drive system. Gradient or no, it was just a pants runner.

I removed the 6 wheel drive system and reduced it to 2 wheel drive, letting the coupling rods do their job, and it runs beautifully. 

To my mind, just massively over engineered.

I'd really like Wagoner, but I have little faith in DJM. I'm just returning an O2 Calbourne as it's arrived with a warped running plate 

Totally agree. The combination of gears and couplings rods indicates a total lack of understanding of engineering.  I'll try removing the gears on  mine.
Peterfgf

[Ben Alder]

I did the same with my O2 and it has made it a far better runner.

[Porcy Mane]

1 hour ago, peterfgf said:

I'll try removing the gears on  mine.

 

Good Luck. Do let us know how you get on.

 

 

[Paul_sterling]

6 hours ago, peterfgf said:

Totally agree. The combination of gears and couplings rods indicates a total lack of understanding of engineering.  I'll try removing the gears on  mine.
Peterfgf

I know of similar trials Peter, only thing I'd suggest is replacing the coupling rods, as the originals have slack in them to work with the gearing lash, so taking out the gear train will likely expose the slogger in the rods. 

Edited August 20, 2021 by Paul_sterling

[PMP]

 

41 minutes ago, Paul_sterling said:

I know of similar trials Peter, only thing I'd suggest is replacing the coupling rods, as the originals have slack in them to work with the gearing lash, so taking out the gear train will likely expose the slogger in the rods. 

On the Djm J94’s running them without any rods makes no difference to the cogging. The Djm rods are rigid and have virtually no slack whatsoever. You do get a limited improvement by removing some of the gear train on the Djm model.

https://albionyard.net/2017/08/21/removals/

 

I’ve emphasised Djm, as I I’ve no experience of the new EFE version which may have better running characteristics with the new motor.

Edited August 21, 2021 by PMP
Addition

[Paul_sterling]

13 hours ago, PMP said:

 

On the Djm J94’s running them without any rods makes no difference to the cogging. The Djm rods are rigid and have virtually no slack whatsoever. You do get a limited improvement by removing some of the gear train on the Djm model.

https://albionyard.net/2017/08/21/removals/

 

I’ve emphasised Djm, as I I’ve no experience of the new EFE version which may have better running characteristics with the new motor.

 

Just checking on my Dj j94 and it has fore and aft slack, nothing up and down so the rods don't rattle like the 48xx did. But nevertheless has some compensation in the motion for the gears. 

 

Running without the rods I don't think will make a difference, as I think the cogging is entirely caused within the drive train motor and gearbox rather than the rods interfering. Running with the gearbox simplified and with rods however, I think will improve matters. 

 

Thanks. Paul 

[Ruston]

Does anyone know how to get the wheels out of one of these things? Mine is actually the DJM one, but they're mechanically identical, or so I am led to understand. I took off what I thought was a keep plate, but it is only a moulding of the springs and brakes; it doesn't actually hold the axles in.

 

I can see where the split in the chassis is, but both halves of this go completely around the axles, so splitting the chassis wouldn't appear to allow the axlesets to be removed. Were the chassis assembled and the wheels pressed on in the factory?

[Torn-on-the-platform]

Hi all,

 

I wanted to reignite this thread to ask for advice about how best to proceed with my original DJM Wilbert, which went up in a puff of smoke. Soon after purchase it stalled, but a replacement blanking plug was enough to fix this issue. It has run OK ever since until straying onto the same live section of track as my incredibly power hungry Dapol 121. A further blanking plug change has not resolved the matter, not that I thought it would! I assume it is a replacement motor that is needed.

 

The loco did not come with instructions on how to dismantle, so I have had similar issues trying to take it apart as Ruston has outlined in the last post.  I have found the screws underneath which let the chassis come free of the boiler/saddle tanks, but I have not managed to fully separate due to the wiring.

 

I have approached a local model shop who have quoted £30 for repair but caveated that they don't have an account with Bachmann/EFE currently to source spare parts.

 

My questions therefore are:

1. Can anyone advise how the loco comes apart?

2. If I can source the EFE motor from the current model, would it be interchangeable with the DJM one?

3. Would I be better off buying an EFE loco and swapping the chassis over? Most expensive, but most definitive repair if possible.

 

Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help!

 

 

 

Edited August 15, 2022 by Torn-on-the-platform

[No Decorum]

10 hours ago, Torn-on-the-platform said:

Hi all,

 

I wanted to reignite this thread to ask for advice about how best to proceed with my original DJM Wilbert, which went up in a puff of smoke. Soon after purchase it stalled, but a replacement blanking plug was enough to fix this issue. It has run OK ever since until straying onto the same live section of track as my incredibly power hungry Dapol 121. A further blanking plug change has not resolved the matter, not that I thought it would! I assume it is a replacement motor that is needed.

 

The loco did not come with instructions on how to dismantle, so I have had similar issues trying to take it apart as Ruston has outlined in the last post.  I have found the screws underneath which let the chassis come free of the boiler/saddle tanks, but I have not managed to fully separate due to the wiring.

 

I have approached a local model shop who have quoted £30 for repair but caveated that they don't have an account with Bachmann/EFE currently to source spare parts.

 

My questions therefore are:

1. Can anyone advise how the loco comes apart?

2. If I can source the EFE motor from the current model, would it be interchangeable with the DJM one?

3. Would I be better off buying an EFE loco and swapping the chassis over? Most expensive, but most definitive repair if possible.

 

Thanks in advance if anyone is able to help!

 

 

 

I have four DJM models, three of which I have fitted with decoders (including Wilbert) and they all work well, although I admit they are not used much. The fourth is an utter dog, so I shall be very interested in the discussion I hope you will have started. They all have what I regard as shortcomings which haven’t been addressed by the EFE version so I haven’t been tempted by the latter. One of the worst features is the difficulty of getting inside them, as you have highlighted. In fairness, DJM is far from being alone in this. With regard to question 1, see the illustration below. You’ll have found out the hard way that it isn’t as easy as it is made to look! Question 2 – it seems as if you would need at least a new motor mounting bracket and cradle.

 

Incidentally, I also have one of the original Dapol models. Its low-speed running is exemplary and was breathtaking at the time. If it ain’t bust, don’t fix it.

[Ruston]

22 hours ago, Torn-on-the-platform said:

My questions therefore are:

1. Can anyone advise how the loco comes apart?

2. If I can source the EFE motor from the current model, would it be interchangeable with the DJM one?

3. Would I be better off buying an EFE loco and swapping the chassis over? Most expensive, but most definitive repair if possible.

If you don't use DCC then you don't need the blanking plug. Cut it off and solder the wires direct to each other. It can't blow up if it isn't there. If that doesn't fix it, and if it is a duff motor, go on ebay and search for 8mm Dia. Coreless motors. They're about £3 each direct from China, postage free. The worm from your existing motor will come off with some persuasion and can be refitted using threadlock. I actually replaced my motor with a larger 5-pole motor but that was before I discovered the coreless motors on ebay.

 

As no one ever replied to my question I went in and pulled the thing apart anyway. The wheels pull off easily and are just as easily put back together and are also self-quartering. I binned all the useless gears and kept only what was needed to drive the centre axle. Washers were put between the chassis block and wheels to eliminate the excessive side play. I then fitted a set of RT Models etched rods and now the loco drives on the rods, instead of a load of gears. It doesn't jam or make excessive noise and runs perfectly. I also stuck a  load of lead in the tank so that it can now pull a decent load, unlike the out-of-the-box effort, which was pathetic.

 

Smithywood Coking Plant No.2.

Edited August 16, 2022 by Ruston

[Torn-on-the-platform]

Thank you No Decorum and Ruston! I had heard that these generic Chinese motors were good, but that was from a 'polarising' youtuber. I will give this a go when time allows and report back. This may well be beyond my capabilities, but is worth a try.

[No Decorum]

11 hours ago, Ruston said:

If you don't use DCC then you don't need the blanking plug. Cut it off and solder the wires direct to each other. It can't blow up if it isn't there. If that doesn't fix it, and if it is a duff motor, go on ebay and search for 8mm Dia. Coreless motors. They're about £3 each direct from China, postage free. The worm from your existing motor will come off with some persuasion and can be refitted using threadlock. I actually replaced my motor with a larger 5-pole motor but that was before I discovered the coreless motors on ebay.

 

As no one ever replied to my question I went in and pulled the thing apart anyway. The wheels pull off easily and are just as easily put back together and are also self-quartering. I binned all the useless gears and kept only what was needed to drive the centre axle. Washers were put between the chassis block and wheels to eliminate the excessive side play. I then fitted a set of RT Models etched rods and now the loco drives on the rods, instead of a load of gears. It doesn't jam or make excessive noise and runs perfectly. I also stuck a  load of lead in the tank so that it can now pull a decent load, unlike the out-of-the-box effort, which was pathetic.

 

Smithywood Coking Plant No.2.

An excellent job, if I may say so. If my eyes don’t deceive me, that injector is from RT Models too – the originals were one of the weak points of the originals and very obvious when not painted black.