corsair Posted February 6, 2023 Share Posted February 6, 2023 Does any one know we’re the square plastic bit goes that’s in the accessory bag thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted February 6, 2023 Author Share Posted February 6, 2023 15 minutes ago, corsair said: Does any one know we’re the square plastic bit goes that’s in the accessory bag thank you Little rectangular thing with moulded bits on it? It's the representation of the inside valve gear. Goes between the frames, under the boiler. There's a small flat area it sits on. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsair Posted February 7, 2023 Share Posted February 7, 2023 4 hours ago, Steamport Southport said: Little rectangular thing with moulded bits on it? It's the representation of the inside valve gear. Goes between the frames, under the boiler. There's a small flat area it sits on. Jason 4 hours ago, Steamport Southport said: Little rectangular thing with moulded bits on it? It's the representation of the inside valve gear. Goes between the frames, under the boiler. There's a small flat area it sits on. Jason thank you for that very helpfull Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 26, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 26, 2023 As there’s no info in the data sheet supplied has anyone worked out what the pads on the end of the pcb are? I can see speaker + & - but I’m wondering if any of those are positive and ground contacts for stay alives? It appears to be R + F (R rear?) & R + F (F Front?) Assuming it’s a generic board at a guess they would be, + = positive R = red / tail light W = white / headlight. Can anyone confirm that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted February 28, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 28, 2023 On 26/02/2023 at 00:52, PaulRhB said: As there’s no info in the data sheet supplied has anyone worked out what the pads on the end of the pcb are? I can see speaker + & - but I’m wondering if any of those are positive and ground contacts for stay alives? It appears to be R + F (R rear?) & R + F (F Front?) Assuming it’s a generic board at a guess they would be, + = positive R = red / tail light W = white / headlight. Can anyone confirm that? Thanks are due to Muz for confirming the info on the circuit board with the factory. He has kindly supplied this reply from them. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meatloaf Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 What are the chances of a Hornby TXS decoder fitting in here with the smallest sugarcube speaker? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 16, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2023 On 16/08/2022 at 20:38, Ruston said: If you don't use DCC then you don't need the blanking plug. Cut it off and solder the wires direct to each other. It can't blow up if it isn't there. If that doesn't fix it, and if it is a duff motor, go on ebay and search for 8mm Dia. Coreless motors. They're about £3 each direct from China, postage free. The worm from your existing motor will come off with some persuasion and can be refitted using threadlock. I actually replaced my motor with a larger 5-pole motor but that was before I discovered the coreless motors on ebay. As no one ever replied to my question I went in and pulled the thing apart anyway. The wheels pull off easily and are just as easily put back together and are also self-quartering. I binned all the useless gears and kept only what was needed to drive the centre axle. Washers were put between the chassis block and wheels to eliminate the excessive side play. I then fitted a set of RT Models etched rods and now the loco drives on the rods, instead of a load of gears. It doesn't jam or make excessive noise and runs perfectly. I also stuck a load of lead in the tank so that it can now pull a decent load, unlike the out-of-the-box effort, which was pathetic. Smithywood Coking Plant No.2. Dave, did you by any chance note the diameter of the axles, please? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 53 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said: Dave, did you by any chance note the diameter of the axles, please? Thanks. 'Fraid not, Cap'n. Not in measuring them anyway. They looked to be 3mm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 16, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2023 3 hours ago, Ruston said: 'Fraid not, Cap'n. Not in measuring them anyway. They looked to be 3mm. Thanks, that's still helpful. Do the axles run in bearings of some kind or directly on the metal of chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 16, 2023 Share Posted November 16, 2023 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said: Thanks, that's still helpful. Do the axles run in bearings of some kind or directly on the metal of chassis? I'm not sure now. It's been some time since I had it apart and I get confused with what I did to what loco. I don't remember if I posted anything of it in my Industrial loco workshop thread or not. Edit: Here, on page 17. Edited November 16, 2023 by Ruston Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 16, 2023 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2023 Thanks Dave. Having found the photo of the dismantled DJM chassis, it confirms my fears. From what can establish, the only thing different from the EFE ones is that a different motor has been used, which is reported as better quality. I have a DJM body and RT chassis kit, in order to do one in P4. If converting an EFE example offered a quicker or easier route, then I might well have availed myself of one of the half-price ones currently on offer from Kernow Model Centre. As such, I think I will stick with 'Plan A'... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Covkid Posted November 17, 2023 Share Posted November 17, 2023 I watched Sam's video of the blue and yellow version yesterday, with a predictable outcome from him. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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