Jump to content
 

Tulloch Bridge, West Highland Line, Mid 2000's - Present day, 4mm Scale


Rammstein2609
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

I seemed to have used up all of my energy working on the fiddle yard baseboards yesterday so spent this morning glueing all the window frames to some acetate sheet, cutting them out then fixing them onto the station building model.  They were rather fiddly to get to a point I was happy but I've still managed to get some glue on the acetate sheet.  From normal viewing distances it's not noticeable so I think I'll leave the windows as they are for now.  The crude close up shots below don't help the matter but you'll have to trust me that it looks much better in the flesh.

 

Despite trying hard to match the green as best as I could, I still felt this was too dark compared to the prototype but now that the white window frames are in, I think it looks like a pretty good match.  Not perfect but close enough for me.

 

Cheers
Martin

IMG_3801.JPG

IMG_3802.JPG

IMG_3803.JPG

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

Progress has slowed recently but I've managed a few hours this week working on the roof structures for the station and signal box.  I've designed a joist system for the station roof to make it more rigid but also to allow me to recreate the exposed joist ends which are a visible characteristic of this type of building.  The ends are a little complicated as there are various angles to take into consideration but it all went together smoothly and has resulted in a roof shape I'm happy with.

 

IMG_3811.JPG.b9512cbf5d40252dfe11f223af5c3851.JPG

IMG_3812.JPG.56986e2f7fa35fb7ce88793443ade6c3.JPG

IMG_3810.JPG.11422fda317f6071b5db8fec203424ab.JPG

 

I've used 0.4mm board over the joists to create a nice flat surface to fix the roofing tiles to and this also stops the whole roof structure sagging like a banana when it is removed from the building.

 

IMG_3820.JPG.ad988153ef160f24d2cc361c8613170d.JPG

 

I managed to get some time this morning to spray the two main colours for the underside of the roof.  There is some touching up required on the green edges but this will be an easy job for a later date.

 

IMG_3822.JPG.80a087707f7faf1d73ddf232243fca75.JPG

 

Lastly, my previous version of the chimneys involved over 20 individual laser cut parts to build a single unit which was a real pain to build.  I've taken some time to design the two different chimney types in 3D CAD and they are currently printing on my 3D printer at the moment.  The plan is to paint these up before securing to the roof then the roofing slates can be attached to finish the whole thing off.  

 

chimneys.PNG.7261495905aad06f2cd46207c9126ff0.PNG

 

Thanks

Martin

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

Here is a quick update on the 3D printed chimneys.  The first batch suffered from sagging issues so I adjusted the orientation and supports before printing another batch and I'm happier with these.  There are some rough looking areas in the cruel close up photos but they look great in the flesh.

 

IMG_3836.JPG.b171306cbd0eee4e9568de14735ad6c7.JPG

 

Here are a couple of comparison shots against the first version of laser cut chimneys.  The laser cut version does look good but is an absolute pain to build with over 20 individual pieces per chimney.

 

IMG_3841.JPG.6b1d8742d7cf67c0f50f5ee04622e508.JPG

IMG_3842.JPG.72df3aa82901740beff775540b85d77c.JPG

 

Next on the list is to get these painted up, glued to the roof then I can commence adding the roofing slates.

 

Cheers

Martin

  • Like 6
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

Another quick update on the station building.  Work has been busy this week and I've been staying away from home so decided to take a modelling bag with me.  I only managed to slate half of the roof and install the chimneys but some progress is better than none.

 

After the other half of the roof has been slated I'll add the flashing and ridge caps before adding the guttering and downpipes then the building will be ready to fix to the layout.  I'll weather the whole layout as one rather than individual pieces so everything blends together better.

 

Thanks
Martin

IMG_3872.JPG

IMG_3873.JPG

IMG_3874.JPG

  • Like 17
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

Another quick project on my lunch break today was to design some benches for the platforms.  I have based these off the benches currently at Crianlarich station as I had several photos and measurements taken on a recent visit and they looked fairly simple.  I've gone down the 3D printed route for these as I thought it would be quicker and simpler to achieve vs laser cutting.

 

126702606_crianlarichbench.PNG.80ade1e7ebda1fa302df4346715a2162.PNG

DSC_0471.JPG.9f37a2edc1886456653f7916bedc9dac.JPG

 

The result is almost there but there is a fair bit of warping and as this is a rough test piece I didn't spend too much time cleaning off extra material where the supports connected with the main structure.  The white frame is 0.5mm thick as are the bench timbers so warping was to be expected.  I may now design a laser cut bench as a test to see how it stacks up against the 3D printed version. 

 

IMG_3883.JPG.f6ff8ef7ffcaf75d19f062a25a3f6dec.JPG

IMG_3884.JPG.3abdf14643ec2ec0f0171e6e81c9295f.JPG

IMG_3885.JPG.f90d313406e1b9c111d5aaaab2f22114.JPG

 

I couldn't resist quickly painting one up and posing it next to the station building for size comparison.

 

IMG_3887.JPG.7435f8c21ce65edea1bafe783062973f.JPG

 

Cheers

Martin

 

 

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
4 minutes ago, Rammstein2609 said:

 I've gone down the 3D printed route for these as I thought it would be quicker and simpler to achieve vs laser cutting


… and probably a lot easier (for more than one or two) than evergreen plastic strip.  It really is fascinating how new technologies are changing modelling and it’s skill sets.
 

They look impressive.  

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

I've been brainstorming different ideas for the layout legs with the main requirements being they had to be light weight and not take up too much space.  The idea is that this layout will be able to fit into the back of my car with fiddle yard, legs, rolling stock and the other usual bits and pieces which are needed for a layout.

 

1664606339_Screenshot2021-09-19at15_58_25.png.d1536dc177f257bc18f1bb9764915896.png

 

After looking at several solutions I've decided to use Ivar side units from Ikea as the main leg design with some laser cut ply bits which will act as the interface between legs and baseboards.  I've used the 30 x 124cm Ivar side units for the fiddle yard legs and used the 50cm versions for the scenic board.  This looks to be an expensive way of building layout legs however when I calculated the timber I would need at todays retail prices and the time I would need to actually build the legs, the Ikea solution actually came out cheaper and much more convenient.

 

IMG_3904.JPG.1be30715617400c5389467ca85a04b33.JPG

IMG_3911.JPG.87a13352981b70c99ddb8c47db5c2fa6.JPG

 

I've had to design three different interfaces so far for the following:

- end of straight baseboards

- middle of straight baseboards (over joint)

- middle of curved baseboards (over joint).

 

IMG_3914.JPG.4ba4176a6c77d36ee52052d576f68188.JPG

IMG_3913.JPG.5d4a8963c06c989f014603785874f29b.JPG

IMG_3916.JPG.7b411bed32f55c4b3ee576a35a85e7c4.JPG

IMG_3915.JPG.02cc322832163a58e5f85e7287930fa4.JPG

 

This design allows for the laser cut interface parts to slide under the baseboard on the inside then a 6mm bolt will be driven through from outside the fascia to fasten the legs onto the board.  The legs have 6mm insert nuts built into the interface so there's no need to mess around with wing nuts or similar under the baseboards.

 

IMG_3912.JPG.0b280f0d506605d736386698f33f0748.JPG

 

I still need to measure up the scenic board to design the interface pieces which will work with it.  Once I've built these parts, I'll work out what height I want the layout to sit at then I can cut however much material is required off the bottom of the legs.  Once this has been done I intend to use 8mm insert nuts with threaded feet to allow adjustment of the legs at exhibitions on uneven floors.

 

Thanks

Martin

 

Edited by Rammstein2609
Add missing photo
  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Bin there done that!  It’s a good solution. 
One word of warning, having cut the top rail off mine the side legs can splay out. I assume because the middle rails are not glued in place. 
So . . . add some glue if you go past the bottom rail, or try to pin with a crossed pins (though they don’t go far into the leg) or add your own rail from (say) 4mm ply.

Paul

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

Bin there done that!  It’s a good solution. 
One word of warning, having cut the top rail off mine the side legs can splay out. I assume because the middle rails are not glued in place. 
So . . . add some glue if you go past the bottom rail, or try to pin with a crossed pins (though they don’t go far into the leg) or add your own rail from (say) 4mm ply.

Paul

Hi Paul

 

This thought had crossed my mind.  I’ve got some suitable ply which can be used to brace the legs at the bottom once material has been removed.  I may look into the plausibility of routing out a rebate to accept the ply just as IKEA have manufactured these units.  I’ll post a update once I’ve figured this out.

 

Thanks

Martin

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 19/09/2021 at 20:54, jeff mcghie said:

How are you bracing the legs to stop the whole thing collapsing like a house of cards before the complete circuit is built?

Hi Jeff

 

At the moment, my limited testing shows that the 6mm bolts used to fasten the legs to the layout hold strong enough until the whole layout is connected together however I am planning further testing to see whether I need to bolt on some kind of cross bracing piece to hold it all steady.

 

The plan is to bolt the leg assemblies to the relevant baseboards first then connect everything together.  It’s a little more tricky than the leg assemblies I used on Ketton Cement but I’ve gone down this route to save space and weight in the car when transporting the layout.

 

I’m working away from home this week so will try and take a series of photos at the weekend of how everything bolts together once I’ve finished the scenic board legs.

 

Thanks

Martin

Edited by Rammstein2609
Spelling
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

I never got the chance to put the fiddle yard up on its new legs over the weekend due to other things getting in the way but I did manage to produce the two RETB boards today which are needed for the layout.  I've used the same design as my test boards from last year but I've refined them a little.

 

IMG_3949.JPG.ae612b6accb6c66c213b7cc53b1f6bfe.JPG

 

The main structure uses a laser cut 0.8mm board with brass tube legs, 1.8mm LED and printed RETB sign.  This was designed in Powerpoint and printed on photo paper then sprayed with dullcoat to seal everything.  The sign has double sided tape applied to the back before being cut off the sheet.

 

IMG_3951.JPG.cfcf530872d7971d6e44ce93ac7652d4.JPG

 

The brass tubes are superglued to the back of the 0.8mm board and the LED is glued into the rectangular slot.

 

IMG_3952.JPG.144997a1d3baaf33d811e19d930c0bbb.JPG

 

The LED legs are bent sideways so they connect to the brass tubes, excess trimmed away then soldered.

 

IMG_3954.JPG.ef0c7747968760aab8de4f7c704cc682.JPG

 

The boards are then sprayed grey all over then the fronts painted black.  The LED has some black paint added to the top to represent the hood but I still need to add another coat to reduce light bleed.  Once the paint has dried the printed sign is stuck down using the attached double sided tape.  The edges are sealed with a quick coat of black paint, this also hides the white edge of the photo paper.

 

IMG_3953.JPG.f091cd415f4b929c5ec6555cb0a6acf3.JPG

 

Finally, wires were soldered to the brass tubes then everything was hooked up to my test rig.  My ATtiny85 RETB control board is switched using a relay connected to my DCC servo & relay decoder.  I have uploaded a quick video to YouTube showing the final result:

 

 

I'll add these to the layout over the next few weeks and get everything wired up before cracking on with the scenic work.

 

Thanks

Martin

  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All

 

This past weekend was spent on the demo stand at the Furness MRC exhibition in Barrow where I was able to crack on with the roof of my station building and also the signal box roof.  I finished adding all the slates and added the lead work around the ridges and chimneys.  This was achieved by using Tamiya masking tape cut down to a suitable width before being cut into smaller sections which would allow a small over lap at each end as per the real thing.  Unfortunately the roof sustained a small piece of damage during the journey home but a quick fix will resolve this thankfully.  I just need to get working on the guttering and down pipes before fixing the building to the layout.

 

Cheers
Martin

IMG_4045.JPG

IMG_4046.JPG

IMG_4041.JPG

IMG_4042.JPG

IMG_4040.JPG

IMG_4044.JPG

  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 19/09/2021 at 17:56, 5BarVT said:

Bin there done that!  It’s a good solution. 
One word of warning, having cut the top rail off mine the side legs can splay out. I assume because the middle rails are not glued in place. 
So . . . add some glue if you go past the bottom rail, or try to pin with a crossed pins (though they don’t go far into the leg) or add your own rail from (say) 4mm ply.

Paul

I've finally had the chance to figure out a solution to this issue and have now successfully cut all the Ivar legs to length and added the bracing back in.  I didn't want to change the aesthetic of the legs so designed a laser cut template to be used with a router and 30mm bush.  Once the legs had been cut down I used this template to route out a new slot in each leg to accept the original cross brace which was carefully removed from the parts of the leg which had been cut off.

 

1789335449_routertemplate.png.eadba1a7126962d05acb4dc6a9622931.png

 

The image above hopefully shows the process of how I've achieved this:

1, Flat pack template cut on the laser

2, Template built up (view from the top)

3, Template built up (view from the bottom)

4, 30mm guide bush in router base

5, Router used in laser cut template which is slipped over the end of the leg

6, New slot routed out to accept original cross brace.

 

While cutting the leg heights down I also took the opportunity to add adjustable feet.  For this I've used 6mm insert nuts with 6mm threaded adjustable rubber feet purchased from eBay for around £10 for 24.

 

1268008251_adjustablefeet.png.cb41276d86db5c2e834812aa5093c51e.png

 

The image above shows the process of adding the adjustable feet:

1, 6mm insert nut and adjustable foot

2, Drill an 8mm hole in the centre of the base of the leg

3, Screw the insert nut into the 8mm hole until flush with the base of the leg

4, Insert adjustable foot 

5, Foot fully inserted.

 

I'm rather happy with the results now so I'm now ready to connect all baseboards together and test the fit and finish.  I'll need to wait until the weekend to try this out unfortunately then I can get cracking with laying track in the fiddle yard.

 

Cheers

Martin

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

I managed to get some time this morning to add removable cross bracing to the straight board legs and set the whole layout up for the first time.  I was pleased to find that it all went together absolutely perfectly first time, so all the planning and measuring paid off.  I was also able to set the whole thing up on my own in under 10 minutes then pack it all down again just as quickly which bodes well for exhibitions.

 

The scenic board is solid when the legs and cross braces are attached.  Due to the height, it is a little wobbly on its own if pushed but once everything was bolted together to create the whole layout then everything is solid and not going anywhere.

 

Now that everything fits together, I can crack on with track laying when I get some free time.

 

Thanks
Martin

IMG_4071.JPG

IMG_4073.JPG

IMG_4074.JPG

IMG_4076.JPG

IMG_4077.JPG

  • Like 13
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Hi All

 

It's been a while since I updated this topic as there hasn't really been any progress since the last posts.  There have been a few false starts on laying track in the fiddle yard but on most of those occasions I just haven't been too enthusiastic about track laying so attempts were abandoned.  Having recently organised my home office, I have created some space to setup a table in order to complete some modelling tasks whenever free time allows.  Today I decided that I wanted to lay the track on at least the left hand curves of the fiddle yard and I have managed to do just that.

 

I'm using Peco code 75 with curved turnouts for this but soon realised there isn't much of a curve to these.  My initial plan was to handbuild some turnouts for the curved baseboards but in the end decided to go for speed and easy setup.

 

The plan is to mirror the track layout of these curved boards on the opposite boards and just have straight tracks on the straight baseboards resulting in a pretty basic fiddle yard.  Once all the track is laid I will then cut all rail gaps required to incorporate block detection and also ABC braking modules but more on that when I get around to that part.

 

Thanks
Martin

 

 

IMG_4562.JPG

IMG_4563.JPG

Edited by Rammstein2609
Re-upload photos
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi All

 

Things have gone a little quiet on the layout front as things seem to be really busy at the moment.  I managed to finish laying the fiddle yard track a few weeks ago with the exception of the tracks which connect to the scenic board.  These will require a little bit of baseboard sanding to align the rail heads.

IMG_4635.JPG.dd88f8bc06128c38d69882297e34c194.JPG

IMG_4636.JPG.deaad8ff6bb3df9009b3fa6847d23f31.JPG

IMG_4637.JPG.65d3b0ff6c48744ca9b4c721c4cb225d.JPG

 

 

 

 

Any modelling time I have had over the last couple of weeks have turned to modifying some rolling stock.  There originally wasn't so much of an urgency to work on these items but now the layout has its first exhibition invitation for later this year, I thought I would start early.

IMG_4672.JPG.af773367c04e03b32d4d2df6831f0fd8.JPG

 

 

I've also been working on some neat little frog juicer units as well as a new LocoNet input/output control panel board.  This allows for the use of physical push buttons on control panels but also the use of DCC throttle use and JMRI use when it comes to changing turnouts and setting routes - more on that later!

IMG_4667.JPG.7a930bb4d72940219435169acf379c97.JPG

IMG_4505.JPG.73f2b873c835d74fddc1152c38ac7598.JPG

 

 

 

I'll be on the Scottish Modellers demo stand at Model Rail Scotland this weekend with some of my buildings, footbridge and rolling stock so if you're attending feel free to pop by and say hello.

 

Thanks

Martin

Edited by Rammstein2609
Re-upload photos
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi All

 

I’m pleased to say that Tulloch Bridge is at Model Rail Scotland this weekend!  Well, the scenic section is.

IMG_4678.JPG.ac500a56ad24b7e7d178cacd4b645bec.JPG

 

 

The Scottish Modellers demo stand ended up being a lot larger than we had booked so I’ve filled a space with the scenic board where I will be working on the scenics over the course of the weekend.

 

Pop by and say hello if you’re at the show.  Stand C22, top left corner of the hall.

 

Thanks

Martin

Edited by Rammstein2609
Typo
  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...