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Tenshodo (Pacific Fast Mail) GP35 Restoration


Barclay
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I seem to be drawn to battered junk models like a moth to a candle flame, and this certainly fits the description. Once someone's (expensive) pride and joy, this one has fallen on hard times. To be honest it looks like it's been trodden on then thrown out of the window into a swamp. Still, only $50, although the postage to the UK; tax; and UPS admin charge ramped that up considerably...

 

The plan is to fix its issues, get it running nicely, add a little extra detail, and, eventually, a paint job so it can run on the US layout I haven't yet built. I'll be needing advice too as my knowledge of US stuff is very limited.

 

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Edited by Barclay
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The GP35 wasn't the most loved of the 4-axle EMDs, but did usher in the appearance that would be continued, more or less, into GP40 and GP50. My own limited experience of US brass models is that they aren't great runners, and tend to be noisy. By 2020 RTR standards, the performance is a bit agricultural. 

 

Do you have a roadname in mind?

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On 18/08/2020 at 19:00, Oldddudders said:

The GP35 wasn't the most loved of the 4-axle EMDs, but did usher in the appearance that would be continued, more or less, into GP40 and GP50. My own limited experience of US brass models is that they aren't great runners, and tend to be noisy. By 2020 RTR standards, the performance is a bit agricultural. 

 

Do you have a roadname in mind?

Santa Fe - all the way ! Some sort of waterfront/carfloat type switching layout in the San Francisco Bay Area. Mid '70s. That's the plan anyway... 

I borrow this from the RRPictureArchives website, duly credited, but will happily remove if required. A great resource by the way. 

 

 

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Edited by Barclay
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Under test the motor ran quite roughly and I suspected a broken wire in the armature, but some fiddling, including the brush connections, suddenly had it running smoothly, so perhaps there was a conductivity issue somewhere in the brush/spring assembly. 

 

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The transmission is a gear tower to the rear truck, which has a layshaft with steel worm gears to each axle. An underfloor shaft with universal joints connects the 2nd truck, which has the same layshaft/worm arrangement. Very nicely engineered and none of it looked like it had ever been used. It was also completely dry of lubrication and perfectly clean. Quite stiff though.

 

Today everything has been stripped down and Brasso applied to the gears before powering them up with a rubber wheel mounted in a Dremel. I always run in metal gears with Brasso and it does pay dividends. After thorough cleaning it was all re-assembled and lubricated with a light oil.

 

A length of neoprene tube has been used to connect the motor to the transmission, and it runs !

 

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It's quite smooth but not very controllable at low speed. I think the old motor doesn't help, it draws a lot of current. I don't know how much, my multimeter only goes up to 250mA, and it barely runs off-load on that.

2 options have been suggested - pop in a can motor, easily done, I've got one I can try. The other is to 'supercharge' the motor with Neodymium magnets, which apparently makes a huge difference. I might try both, I certainly can't leave it as it is because while that Powermaster can deliver the current, I don't think the electronic handheld controllers I use on my layout will cope with it at all well, and I do want to use it for switching on a small layout. It might never be as smooth as my Atlas/Kato RS1 but it does need to deliver - its days as a shelf-queen are over !

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So, back on the superstructure, there are some things to resolve:

 

The cab is only joined to the body at the roof, and it's not straight at the moment. I also have concerns about the nose - I don' think it's completely straight either, not fully vertical in other words.

The roof hatch is loose at one end. 

 

 

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On the roof there's a blob of solder I don't like. It's not thick but could do with being removed. I did consider Cannon and Co. fans and they are very good, but I've decided to stick with these - I have more or less decided to keep the loco reasonably original - if I was to start smothering it with aftermarket parts then I think it will lose something.

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The radiator grilles and what lies behind them (shutters?) are missing, although I do have a frame in the box. The handrails, of course, need straightening and some of the stanchions re-soldering. In terms of improvements the cast steps aren't great either, and I'm starting to covet the etched ones made by Cannon and Co. I think they at least would be a simple and worthwhile addition.

 

 

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But first, a much needed clean. An overnight soak in white vinegar followed by a scrub with an old toothbrush and cream cleaner has things looking much nicer....

 

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Meanwhile, a Mabuchi can motor that once worked the door mirror of my old Mercedes was temporarily installed, wedged into place, and with a Pentroller providing the power, the performance was very decent, enough to make me think I can get away with keeping the rest of the powertrain. An even bigger can motor has been ordered from China, 5 pole skew wound, with double shafts, and room for a large flywheel. Fingers crossed that my £2.71  will prove to be money well spent !

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  • 2 weeks later...

This week the cab and short hood have been persuaded to play nicely and the whole lot soldered back together in a straight line. The roof panel is a very hefty chunk of brass and my 60W iron was having none of it. I ended up supergluing it back on, so I hope it holds. The fibreglass brush was plied energetically on the roof to smooth the solder blob, and the one radiator grille frame that I had was re-attached together with a section of grille taken from an A1 Models etch. A matching frame has been made for the other side but doesn't yet have rivets as the brass is much too thick to use the rivet tool, so I haven't installed it yet, while I ponder the options.

 

I've just read an article on upgrading a GP7 in Railroad Model Craftsman and the new radiator grilles installed by the modeller allow you to see through the loco. Can anyone tell me if this is possible on a GP35 if the radiator slats are open, as it's something I would like to incorporate on this if it's appropriate?

 

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The new motor came from China in record time. It is a black 5 pole can approximately equal in size and shape to a Mashima 1833. A flywheel was ordered from Branchlines, which also came very quickly, so today a brass cradle has been soldered up for the motor, with a piece of rubber sheet at the bottom to deaden vibration. It bolts to the loco so the original motor could easily be re-instated in the future if required. I don't have a US layout (yet) so for testing a length of Peco Streamline was laid on my EM gauge layout  and energised with jumper wires. Running? Superb I am pleased to report, although the flywheel doesn't make a lot of difference despite its size - I think there is a lot of friction in the drivetrain. No, still not quite as good as the Atlas/Kato RS-1 but most acceptable.

 

 

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  • 5 months later...

I've not done any more actual work to this loco but at some stage this summer, having sorted the last few issues (steps, handrails, etc) I would like to paint it, so I'm looking for a good match for Santa Fe blue and yellow, that I can obtain in the UK. On another thread Long Island Jack has shared a Microscale document that gives equivalent colours to the old Floquil range from other manufacturers and Model Master Blue Angels yellow and Insignia Blue are recommended. Just interested to see what others are using?

 

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  • 3 months later...

Well I've invested in the paints described, so we will see in due course if they are a reasonable match for the Microscale decals.

 

Meanwhile, much pondering on the steps of this model. I don't want to change much on this loco. because I like it as it is, a nicely detailed model, but 'of it's time' i.e. about 1966, just like the real GP35 !

 

The one thing that really offends me is the steps - it's not just that they aren't see-through, but they are completely the wrong shape:

 

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It's a pain ordering bits from the U.S. but I eventually found a Cannon step and tread set for a GP38-2 for sale in the UK and bought it. Unfortunately the steps seemed rather too short and comparison to drawings suggested that the GP38-2 steps are indeed shorter than those on the GP35. More procrastination until I eventually admitted defeat and ordered a set of GP35 steps from Plano Model Products in Texas. When they arrived this week I compared them to the others and found they weren't any longer, which was puzzling. Of course they are designed for a  R-T-R model so I guess they have to match that.  In the end I decided to keep part of the cast step for the sake of continuity, which also makes up the missing length. I cut the rest away with a piercing saw, and a cutting disc in a Dremel, and then superglued the new steps over the top. Not ideal but it looks a great deal better and appears to work:

 

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Slowly but surely this project is grinding towards the paint shop...

 

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The pilot beams, with new steps attached, have been araldited to the loco.- they were formerly secured by bolts but these were very visible. In the same way a bolt has been soldered inside to secure the rear of the body to the frames, enabling the bolt holes in the side of the loco. to be filled. The Plano step etch also included perforated cab steps so these have been fitted in place of the plain ones that were on the loco.

 

On the number boards, beading, or whatever it is (rubber seals?) has been added with 0.33mm brass wire. I think I'm running out of things to do now so we might not see it in brass again...

 

I have some Kadee no.5 couplings to install, but after paint. I haven't decided yet whether or not to keep the dangly bit that allows automatic uncoupling !

 

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Edited by Barclay
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Hi there,

This has been most interesting to follow, you’ve done a great job.

Re: the Kadees, may I suggest leaving the dropper (fake air hose) in place?

This is the thing that facilitates the hands free coupling and uncoupling as both pieces of rolling stock require it for the magnet to work.

If you cut it off, you are forced to only use a skewer for uncoupling etc.

The appearance is improved of course and if you don’t really do much switching, the skewer method may be satisfying for you.

Just my thoughts, no worries if your preference is different.

Cheers,

John

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Thank you. The U.S. layout I intend and hope to probably build would be very small, and all switching! having said that my U.K. EM gauge layout is all shunting too and I use 3-link couplings on that so I must be a glutton for punishment. Undecided at the moment. 

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I will definitely try this - as I say I am used to 3-link so I don't think this would be too onerous.

 

Since my U.S. layout, tentatively titled Pier 101, doesn't exist yet, I have time to see what works for me !

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After a final clean up the loco. has received a light coat of Halfords grey primer. Always sad to cover up brass but it has to be done !

 

This weekend I hope to test the Model Master colours that Microscale suggest as likely substitutes for the real Santa Fe colours. I'm hoping that since it's Microscale they will at least be a reasonable match for their decals. I now learn that Mech Models have true Santa Fe colours from 2 different manufacturers, though they are acrylic and I have always worked in enamels so we will see how it goes. 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Barclay said:

After a final clean up the loco. has received a light coat of Halfords grey primer. Always sad to cover up brass but it has to be done !

I can remember many years ago the partner of one club member commenting on some freshly painted brass engines a member was displaying. “Oh look, now Fred’s engines look just like Harry’s nice plastic ones”.

It all went very quiet after that…

 

Cheers,

 

David

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  • 2 weeks later...

The Model Master paints look right, colour-wise to me. The blue sprayed on very nicely. As there is such a small amount of yellow the plan was to mask off the ends and brush paint it on , the paint being matt shouldn't give brush marks I thought (On my British engines I always brush paint the black parts after spraying body colour, and it works just fine). However the yellow paint proved quite difficult to work with - sticky and gloopy with no covering power at all. I realised I would have to spray it and masked up the loco. completely using Tamiya tape on the important bits. Then the ends had a quick dust of primer followed by a coat of a slightly paler Humbrol matt yellow to act as an undercoat. Even then the Model Master yellow took several coats to build up any colour at all. Finally it was done, with just a few bits to do with the brush, such as the area round the fuel filler which should be partly blue. I had put on a coat of Humbrol gloss varnish to the blue but I am inexperienced with varnish and it came out somewhat patchy. I am now hoping that the Humbrol 'Clear' I have just bought will unify everything and make it nice and shiny before I apply the decals. otherwise it will be a bath of cellulose thinners and start over. Dirty steam engines are much less bother !

 

 

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Decals - First side done and the Microscale decals match the paint perfectly, so a result !

 

Microscale decals, especially with the aid of some softener just sit into the body and really do look like they are painted on.  So fragile though - it was impossible to do even the shorter lines without the decal breaking up. A frustrating time but got there in the end. Just the other side to do now, plus the side frames on the chassis structure. Annoyingly this loco. is allocated to Bakersfield and that is one name that isn't on the decal sheet. Does anyone know what the tiny yellow writing is both above and to the left of the 'S' in the prototype picture I posted earlier in this thread? there is tiny yellow writing on the sheet and I would ideally get it right.

 

Finally it will need I suppose a protective coat of varnish. The paint is enamel plus Humbrol Gloss-cote, also enamel. However that didn't give a great finish and I'm tempted to try their 'Clear' which is ready thinned and is an acrylic. Then I've read lots of horror stories of acrylic causing enamel to craze and that would be very bad after all this work. Any experiences out there?

 

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I am happy to be corrected but it either says 'FIRE EXTINGUISHER INSIDE' or 'ENGINE COOLING WATER' going the markings in broadly the same place on a couple of my GP's

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  • 3 weeks later...

With the decals done it was time to protect them with varnish, and I was very worried about ruining what I had managed so far. Finishing was a lengthy process and the further you get the more you worry about wrecking it all! Johnson's Clear floor varnish was recommended, lightly brushed on over the decals. I actually used Humbrol 'Clear' gloss varnish, which is allegedly a model equivalent of the Johnsons product. It worked. After that it was time to weather. The whole platform, pilots, and step assembly is technically blue, but doesn't appear very blue in photo's, so was airbrushed with a dirty blackish brown until most of the blue was covered. Then a lighter, dustier brown colour was misted over the trucks and tanks, then the parts of the body that seem to accumulate the most dirt - around air intakes, the forward part of the roof including the cab roof, and the lower cab sides. Pale grey weathering powder on the areas that the crew walk on made them look well used, black panel wash in the fans and exhaust, and an AK weathering pencil (gunmetal) was used to chip the steps to make them look like bare metal was showing through in places (hopefully).

 

After that all the final details, well as many as I could face, including glazing, wipers, number boards, window frames (open), and hoses (black wire insulation on Gibson short handrail knobs). At last I was ready to try to return to June 1974, a summer's evening in California, and my Pentax loaded with Kodachrome. Only problem, I have no American layout, yet, so these had to be taken on my UK EM layout, firmly set on the banks of the River Mersey...

 

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The loco. could really use some EMD makers' plates, but Microscale put those on a separate sheet (they aren't fools are they?) so they will have to wait. Also those things that look like coloured bar codes will have to be made somehow. Are they some sort of automated engine identification system? I also need very fine chain across the end handrails but don't have any at present.

 

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A question - a lot of the ATSF loco's I have seen in photo's have an orange beacon on the left side of the cab roof. I don't think I can see one on 3303 but perhaps it's there - were they universal in the mid- 70's?

 

 

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The final finish wasn't varnished because I like the weathering to be matt but the paintwork to still be shiny in places, but time will show how durable it is.

 

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Decided to do away with the droppers on the couplings.

 

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Well that's my first US loco. finished, but there's a fair amount more conversion fodder in the loft. However what I really need to do now is build a layout !

Edited by Barclay
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Your choice of road number is interesting. 3303 had been 1303, and was then 2803 when remanufactured as a GP35U in 8/84, but the paint can hardly have been dry when it was wrecked and written off in El Paso 1/85. 

 

 

 

Edit : Getting the numbers in the right chronological order!

Edited by Oldddudders
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14 hours ago, Oldddudders said:

Your choice of road number is interesting. 3303 had been 1303, and was then 2803 when remanufactured as a GP35U in 8/84, but the paint can hardly have been dry when it was wrecked and written off in El Paso 1/85. 

 

 

 

Edit : Getting the numbers in the right chronological order!

Wow - didn't know that !

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