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Lincs Auto Coupling


Yan

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  • 11 months later...

Thank you to everyone who visited my Lincs demonstration over last weekend at the Warley National show. I have now sent out details to all who filled in the form with their email addresses - if I've missed anyone or you should have received an email from me but didn't, please let me know.

 

Regards

 

Richard

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Electromagnetic uncoupling.

Since I took over the manufacture and marketing of the Lincs AutoCoupler some modellers have asked about the use of electromagnets for uncoupling. I have always used permanent magnets on my own (4mm scale) layout and recommend the Model Signal Engineering (now marketed by Wizard Models) Sprat & Winkle permanent magnets in the Lincs coupler kit instructions.

I was always aware that electromagnetic uncoupling is possible and, in fact, my predecessor as the proprietor of Lincs used to sell electromagnetic uncouplers, which I believe he assembled himself from the raw materials. Unfortunately, he didn't transfer either complete magnets or manufacturing instructions when I took over the business. The initial volume of orders for the coupler kits was greater than I expected, so I was kept busy for many months just fulfilling coupler kit orders and it wasn't until last year that I was able to investigate the suitability of various proprietory electromagnets. The results I obtained were very mixed and it wasn't until fairly recently that I found and tested a suitable product.

 

Consequently, I can now recommend the MSE electromagnetic uncoupler PK MAG, as listed on their website http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/ProductsFound.php?pTXID=831817&pFirst=1&pPTy=ACB at a current price of £7.50 each + P&P. This uncoupler requires a 12v DC supply, but it operates at a fairly high current compared to 12 volt loco controllers. The circuit breaker on my 12 volt 2 amp supply kept tripping during the testing and I recommend a power supply of minimum 5 amps at 12 volts and push-button (push-to-make) or spring-loaded switch operation of individual uncouplers as required. Be sure to use switches rated at 5 amps minimum. Many miniature push-buttons are only rated for less than 1 amp and I burnt out two of them before realising what the problem was.

 

Full instructions for fitting the uncoupler under the track are included with the product. This uncoupler has been totally successful and reliable in my trials on 4mm stock fitted with Lincs couplers. I have no reason to believe that it would be any less successful with 7mm stock, although I have been unable to test this as yet.

(The power supply which I am using at present is the Sentient CCTV 12v DC 5 amp power supply from Maplin Electronics (code N63JN), which has 4-off 2.1 mm coaxial outputs. This unit has performed all that I have asked of it during demonstrations at the Warley National NEC show this year).

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I didn't see your stand at Warley, perhaps if I had sat and read the programme properly, before setting off around the Hall, I would have seen you were there - Then again I may not have 'seen' you as there was a few people around your stand area - in retrospect, lokking at the Hall plan.
I have dabbled with the Linc's system, and think it good, though a couple of minor problems, which I can't remember now what they wereI'm still looking for something that meets 'my' requirements.

Somebody on RMWebb borrowed my Linc's etches etc., and a wagon already set up to show the system works, I still await it's return.

 

Anyway, best wishes, I believe it to be a viable uncoupling system, and with electromagnets, not permanent, has a lot going for it.

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Consequently, I can now recommend the MSE electromagnetic uncoupler PK MAG, as listed on their website http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/ProductsFound.php?pTXID=831817&pFirst=1&pPTy=ACB at a current price of £7.50 each + P&P. This uncoupler requires a 12v DC supply, but it operates at a fairly high current compared to 12 volt loco controllers. The circuit breaker on my 12 volt 2 amp supply kept tripping during the testing and I recommend a power supply of minimum 5 amps at 12 volts and push-button (push-to-make) or spring-loaded switch operation of individual uncouplers as required. Be sure to use switches rated at 5 amps minimum. Many miniature push-buttons are only rated for less than 1 amp and I burnt out two of them before realising what the problem was.

 

 

Following the recent change of website, this link will not work. It will redirect you to the new site, but not the actual product. Enter PK MAG in the search box to find it.

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  • 1 month later...

I didn't see your stand at Warley, perhaps if I had sat and read the programme properly, before setting off around the Hall, I would have seen you were there - Then again I may not have 'seen' you as there was a few people around your stand area - in retrospect, lokking at the Hall plan.

I have dabbled with the Linc's system, and think it good, though a couple of minor problems, which I can't remember now what they wereI'm still looking for something that meets 'my' requirements.

Somebody on RMWebb borrowed my Linc's etches etc., and a wagon already set up to show the system works, I still await it's return.

 

Anyway, best wishes, I believe it to be a viable uncoupling system, and with electromagnets, not permanent, has a lot going for it.

 

You have a PM. Apologies for my glacial modelling progress, I am basically working on a loco shed layout at the moment so couplings had been relegated down the list - but that isnt really a good enough excuse for the length of time I have had them.

 

However, I have done something in the last few weeks!  At the same time as borrowing your bits, I also boughts a couple of kits, so having compared everything and constructed a few, I have done a few experiments.  I have done 2 vans, and a pair of coaches.  Unfortunately so far it has shown the issue I thought it might for bogie stock - namely needing huge amounts of transition curve so as not to uncouple when the first vehicle is entering the curve and the following one is still on the straight.

 

On the flip side, they will go round a 3ft radius curve without issues (once on a fixed radius, and this doesnt look anywhere near the lower limit for them), and with the couplings at the suggested 1.5mm beyond the buffers, though I think this could be reduced.  I really like the pivot design, which makes them very free moving for the coupling up. The vans I have fitted run faultlessly, and the couplings while not being quite as invisible as AJs are not far off, and without being as delicate. 

 

This test has been with the coupling mounted to the body, and there is room under a Hornby LMS none gangwayed coach for the pivot mechanism and counterbalance to sit in there without getting in the way of the bogie at all. I am tempted to try one the other way up, mounted on the top of the bogie, but am sceptical this will work, as the coupling needs to sit against the underside of the bufferbeam, yet the bogie will follow the track (currently using the Hornby bogies. A sprung bogie may be different, but will still have a variable relationship with the bufferbeam to a certain extent.  Once coupled and under tension it may well do the trick though.

 

post-130-0-20962900-1515709014_thumb.jpg

 

More experiments will occur in due course...

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If the coaches are in rakes, I would be tempted to have some form of 'Hook & Eye' arrangement fitted to the bogies within the rakes,  not sure about the ends though, that is dependent on the minimum radius your using. 
As your coaches are long (by my pre-grouping standards)  I would still try and fix the couplings to the bogies, I'm sure I've read somewhere, though so long ago, about fitting Linc's to bogies.

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These do look quite neat! What do you use on a Loco? The nice thing about S&W is I've used just a loop, but I wouldn't have thought that would have worked here?

 

 

Yes, they can be used with 1 coupling fixed (and this is suggested in the instructions) so that wouldnt be a problem.

 

If the coaches are in rakes, I would be tempted to have some form of 'Hook & Eye' arrangement fitted to the bogies within the rakes,  not sure about the ends though, that is dependent on the minimum radius your using. 

As your coaches are long (by my pre-grouping standards)  I would still try and fix the couplings to the bogies, I'm sure I've read somewhere, though so long ago, about fitting Linc's to bogies.

 

I agree that they don't necessarily need to be used within a rake, but the principle would still be the same.  I'll have a play with mounting on the bogies then - there are some (mark 1s spring to mind) which dont have a flat bufferbeam, but there may be scope for a flat wire just behind the bufferbeam to keep the height right, but that can be dealt with later if initial experiments work!

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  • 3 months later...

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