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Palbrick B Diagram 1/024 in 7mm scale


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After I had produced the Palbrick B in 4mm scale, I was asked by a forum member who has purchased a lot of my earlier kits if I could scale the wagon up to 7mm scale as he works in both scales. I was a bit reluctant to consider this as it isn't as easy as it sounds. Holes end up the wrong size as do fold lines and slots for tabs. I looked at it for a while and decided it might not be too difficult with this wagon as it is a fairly simple model to build and the original 4mm design was actually intended to be a kit for the 'less experienced modeller' to try to kindle some interest in kit building in metal rather than just opening a box for an rtr model.

 

Anyway, I 'bit the bullet' and redrew the artwork at the new scale and had a test etch produced. It went together surprisingly well but there was, as usual, the plethora of little tweaks here and there which were needed to get everything to fit properly. This is the result of the first test build.

 

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I have just finished assembling the second test build which has come out quite nicely.

 

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I don't normally build much in 7mm scale being principally a 4mm scale modeller but I'm quite pleased at the way this one has come out. The castings for the buffers and the vacuum cylinder are from NMRS . I made the vacuum pipes from a broken guitar string and the springs and axleboxes along with the coupling hooks and screw link coupling parts are all part of the etch. 

I've made the Tie bar as part of a bearing retainer component so that the wheels can be removed to simplify painting and for later maintenance.

 

Ian

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This is a very good initiative Ian.  Is the underframe detailed?  I always run the vacuum pipe on my wagons.

 

I do have a niggle and that is with the vacuum hose or "bag".  These ran under the buffer beam.  I suggest you take look at the Slaters product.  It has a cast piece under the buffer beam, a spring and QR connection, also cast.  There is also a cast bracket that seals the vacuum when the wagon is at the tail end.

 

Here's a pic showing the Slater's design:

 

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The bracket is peeping out behind the left buffer.

 

Here's an example of my underframe detailing attempt (different van from above):

 

P1010211.JPG.789a741c0a2e641582e03f787a49d713.JPG

 

ATB

 

John

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Mark, I will make this model available to others who want it, but only in the form of 'etches only'. This will allow the modeller to choose whichever type of buffers, vac cylinder and vac pipes they want to use. If you would like one pm me for details.

 

John

 

I take your point on the vac pipe, but not all wagons had the 'under slung' pipe. This is on a Trestrol A0/E0.

 

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You are however probably correct for the Palbrick but it is a simple enough job to solder a bit of scrap fret behind the hole for pipe and fill the hole with solder. You can then fit whatever type of pipe you want. 

 

I haven't detailed the underside of the wagon, I didn't see any point but again, there is nothing to stop you doing that if you wish to.

Here is a picture of the brake gear and vac cylinder showing some of the underside as it stands.

 

_MG_6481b.jpg.45d2b34718eeeeee9ae03f46820195d1.jpg

 

 

 

Ian

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Now you've taught me something, about Trestrol's anyway.  My era is 1962 ish so that's where my knowledge lies.

 

I have built a lot of wagon kits from various sources and usually find myself scratchbuilding underframe details.  You are right about modifying the kit for the underframe detail desired.  The kit buyer will probably be going to Slaters for wheels, so he may as well buy in the other bits as well.

 

I would have a bash at your kit when you are ready.

 

John

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Hi John

 

PM me and I'll send you the details if you want to go on the list. I model early 60's myself so I only produce things which were still around at that time and when you look around it is amazing how much really old stuff was still in service in that period.

 

A couple of members have asked me to post pictures of the two sheets of etch, so here they are.

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The N.S. sheet is roughly A4 size and the brass one is slightly smaller.

 

Ian

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I've been having a rummage looking for parts for the kit.  I think that the following are required:

 

3 hole disk wheels.  I found a Peco set in my box of wonders, but of course Slater's do them (7122)

 

Couplings: I like Dapol's screw link, ready made and good value IMO.  If you want, Slater's do a set that requires assembly (M7023 in the Loco fittings section).  I see there are hooks on the fret, handy for the spares box.

 

Buffers:  Looking at Paul B's site, some have RCH type (71561) as shown above.  Others are fitted with BR Oleo (71572).  Both can be sourced at Slater's

 

Vacuum Pipes:  Slater's again (7165).  These use a spring to connect the pipe to the QR connector to give a flexible assembly.  I don't like solid pipes.

 

The only thing that I think is not readily available from Slater's as far as I know is the vacuum cylinder.  You can request a plastic fret from Slater's.  I have made these in the past.  I found a W/M cylinder from another kit.  CRT kits do a coach cylinder which is close enough:  https://www.crtkits.co.uk/product.php/395805/

 

Did I miss anything?

 

John

 

 

 

Edited by brossard
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Hi John

 

The cylinder I used was from NMRS  http://www.nmrs-models.co.uk/ and he calls it a Python wagon cylinder. It isn't listed in the catalogue but he is happy enough to supply it if requested. The buffers are also from NMRS and are listed as F013 in his catalogue. I used Slaters wheels on this model but everybody has their own preferences. I tried a different make a couple of years ago when I did a 7mm kit for the HUO 24ton hopper wagon and they were awful. They ran out of true so the wagon rolled along like a drunken sailor but I can't remember which make they were. I replaced them with Slaters and it ran perfectly.

 

Ian

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You are right about people and their preferences.  We all develop our faves with experience.  Another reason to let the Palbrick builder source his/her own parts.

 

Thanks for the NMRS link, I don't think I have seen them before.

 

When changing from 4mm to 7mm, there is a definite learning curve to finding suppliers of bits and bobs.

 

John

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