Guest WM183 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by Guest Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted September 3, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 3, 2020 6 minutes ago, WM183 said: I have already added a brass smokebox dart and replaced the broken leaf springs So - what is the best way to stick these to the engine? I have used superglue in the past but always feared it snapping loose. What do you all do to mount new fire iron hooks and lamp irons on stuff like this? I have a bit of a thing about smokebox darts - there are some ropey castings around. The Dapol plastic are actually pretty fine but brittle bitnive bought a few at that pricd I used to like ones by GWR castings but I doubt they are still about. Which are you using? I just use bog standard Wilko superglue applied on a pin for small details or canopy glue for my figures. They should be protected in the cab so a relatively light fixing is fine just to stop them falling over. Btw dont drop those Modelu men - they dont bounce! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 I use a lot of CA (Zap A Gap medium) for sticking details. However, I always try to find a way to pin as well. I don't like butt joints. If there's a lot of surface area CA by itself will take a LOT of force to remove it - how do I know? For fire irons, I have had the Springside set which is mostly white metal - quite useless. Try to find something in a more robust material such as etched brass. Even plastic works well. Good to see you are consolidating things. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bell Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Hi Amanda, I have followed your recent threads with interest. I sense you are coming to a decision about what you want now. So it is onwards and upwards. Good luck with your plans. Cheers David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baggies1961 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Hi Amanda, Glad the plan is coming together, following with interest. Plan reminds me of a certain Cornish station. Regards Julian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 4, 2020 Share Posted September 4, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Happy Hippo Posted September 6, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 6, 2020 On 04/09/2020 at 15:03, WM183 said: I have installed the fire iron brackets and the lamp irons on the rear of 5717, and have also painted most of the ashpan black - that weird copper colour isn't my thing. Most loco ash pans of my acquaintance are rather rusty. I suspect that the coppery colour was Dapol's interpretation of this. Great work on the modifications. I doubt whether any normal modeller is going to take a vernier gauge to the smoke box dart and tell you it's too short. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Here's a tip: I have started using a black sharpie instead of chemical black for metal parts. It is easier, cheaper and less toxic. John 2 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 5 hours ago, brossard said: Here's a tip: I have started using a black sharpie instead of chemical black for metal parts. It is easier, cheaper and less toxic. John I've done that particulary for the black panels on which Wagon numbers are painted! Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Do you not need to mask? The sharpie is also useful for painting black strapping on wagons. I find I have more control than a brush. I just use a piece of plastic card as a mask. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 28 minutes ago, pwr said: I've done that particulary for the black panels on which Wagon numbers are painted! Paul R I did the same but, after a while, the black ink started to 'bleed through' the white number transfers, After that i went back to black paint! Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Hmmm. I have tried painting black panels but I found the masking relatively involved and hard to prevent bleed under. For me, it is easier just to use the black transfer material supplied by Parkside. As for ink bleeding into the lettering, would a coat of gloss varnish or perhaps Kleer before lettering, stop that? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) ARedacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 6 hours ago, brossard said: Hmmm. I have tried painting black panels but I found the masking relatively involved and hard to prevent bleed under. For me, it is easier just to use the black transfer material supplied by Parkside. As for ink bleeding into the lettering, would a coat of gloss varnish or perhaps Kleer before lettering, stop that? John Are you using a top quality masking tape? Frogtape is good or better still, pay a visit to an automotive paint supplier. The tape sold in DIY stores and car accessory shops now tends to be pretty dreadful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted September 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 7, 2020 Masking tape is up there with traffic wardens and facebook. The only thing worse than trying to get a decent paint finish, is getting a decent paint finish and then promptly peeling it off again. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 3 hours ago, WM183 said: I just freehand the black panels with my usual "black", Vallejo Panzer Dark Grey. I am pretty sure the actual works would do likewise, so if the edge is not razor sharp straight? It's ok. The sharpie for metal detail bits is genius though! I might have known you would have a good method for the patches. That is a good looking brake, whose kit is it? I recently finished the Slater's LMS 20T brake. Sorry about the digression, my fault I think. My comment was about metal bits that need to be blackened, not patches. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WM183 Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) Redacted Edited April 12, 2023 by WM183 Redacted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Ha ha. As I thought. I am relieved to know that I am not the only one who struggles with Parkside's plastic step hangers. I have built 3 Parkside brakes (LNER Toad E, Southern Pillbox and GWR AA19 Toad ( for a friend)) and had to make the hangers from brass strip in every case. Slater's give you lost wax brass step hangers which are sooooo much better. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 20 hours ago, Marshall5 said: I did the same but, after a while, the black ink started to 'bleed through' the white number transfers, After that i went back to black paint! Ray. I don't seem to have had that problem - probably due to varnish? Paul R 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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