LPG TTAs

[Rick_Skateboard]

Hello All,

 

I'm planning to convert some TTAs into LPG TTAs, and I was wondering if there was any advice out there?  The layout I want to build is roughly based on the Highland Mainline, and below is a picture of a BP LPG tanker at Inverness.  I don't know if there's any kits or parts available, other than some Genesis tank end covers that I already have.  I'm happy to scratch build bits working from photos and as usual Paul Bartlett's website is the obvious place to look.  So if anybody could offer help with the following questions it would be appreciated.

 

I'm not sure which model would be best to start with; a Bachmann air braked TTA?

Is there a conversion kit or parts available?

Are there any suitable transfers available for the livery?

Does anybody have any drawings or details of the visible differences between compressed gas tanks and liquid fuel tanks?

 

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Rick

[Flood]

I used a couple of Bachmann TTAs to make mine. Looking at Paul Bartlett's photos some of the builds had more rounded ends than a "standard" tank e.g. https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/smbplpg/e35e0bf2d, others were similar end curvature to a "standard" tank e.g.https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/smbplpg/e5fbceaa. When I say "standard" I mean an approximation of that which Bachmann have modelled, I could well be wrong and this is just a trick of perspective.

 

I used the Genesis ends, 10thou microstrip for the side hatch runners and 5 thou brass sheet for the hatch itself. The Anti-overrunners are from plastikard, I think the top vents were upside down roller bearing covers with the axle hole filled in. I made all the transfers myself apart from the data panels, maintenance panels, BP signs and numbers which were Fox. The BP signs are slightly too big, I've since bought a sheet of Fox N gauge TEA transfers which come out slightly smaller. The orange stripes were masked at 4mm wide, this initially looked too narrow so I increased them to 5mm which then looks too wide when the other transfers are added. One of them is being altered back down to 4mm wide (scaled from photos) the other has been sold as is, I only need one.

 

Please see the attached photo of mine, they have now been weathered, along with the jpg images for the transfer sheets I made.

 

 

 

 

 

If you print using Gimp you can scale the image to any size you wish, hence the dimensions on the bottom of each sheet.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Flood
Change in width of orange band

[Fat Controller]

Very nice work; I remember similar vehicles being repaired at Wagon Repairs, Stoke. They used to have spectacular flares when they purged the tanks before doing any welding..

[Rick_Skateboard]

Thanks Flood, that's really helpful.  Your tanks look great!  Did you print the transfers yourself?  It's not something I've ever tried before, but I do have some transfer paper somewhere.  Any advice?  I only have a fairly bog standard printer at home.

 

Cheers,

 

Rick

[Flood]

Those shown were done with Craftovator inkjet transfer paper from ebay on a home HP printer. I bought a 5 sheet pack of both white and clear paper about 5 years ago and I'm still using them. The HP was bought after windows 10 refused to recognise my Epson D88 and the quality is slightly blurred when viewed close to. Earlier this year I had increasing problems with the HP so bought an Epson XP-8600, the print quality is now back to a reasonable standard.

 

HP printers are deskjet whereas Epson are inkjet. I don't know the technical details between them but I know that Epson printers produce better quality for me.

 

Print the transfer on the best setting available. As I said before I use Gimp, it's a free image manipulation package and you can scale your objects to virtually any size. If drawing your own the make them big to get the quality required and then shrink them when printing. To actually create the text or other transfers I still use Microsoft Paint, you don't need anything fancy. After printing don't touch the printed image at all, cut to a reasonable size around the images and spray with a coat of varnish to seal the ink. This saves the rest of the sheet for another day and cuts down on spray varnish. Leave for a day to dry to make sure then just apply as per normal waterslide.

 

Another tip. I find that black print is fine on clear transfer paper but any coloured print is "washed out". I always print colour transfers onto white transfer paper and then cut very carefully around the transfer as required.

 

Another, another tip. Humbrol spray can varnish seems to attack the printed transfers (and some paint surfaces). I've had no problem using Railmatch spray or Testor's Dullcote. If you use an airbrush that's probably a pretty safe bet. I have used acrylic spray before but with the transfers being waterslide I'm not sure how stable acrylic is, I prefer to varnish the transfers using enamels.

Edited September 13, 2020 by Flood

[Gibbo675]

On 12/09/2020 at 00:17, Flood said:

 

 

 

If you print using Gimp you can scale the image to any size you wish, hence the dimensions on the bottom of each sheet.

Hi Flood,

 

Top marks to you for generously sharing your artwork for others to use !

 

I had better tell you that I am impressed by your models also.

 

Gibbo.

[Flood]

Just for completeness, I managed to have my LPG tank returned to me after 9 months and after one hour, Tamiya masking tape and brand new P360 wet and dry the wagon has had 1mm removed from the top of the orange stripe. Perhaps most people won't even notice but I think the proportions now look so much better. It just needs a bit of weathering blowing back in to finish.

Edited April 3, 2022 by Flood