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Mousa models Mk1 sides - Mk1 RF to start


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Having done a cut and shut BFK from Bachmann coach sides am now moving on to replacement etched brass sides.... another BFK, an RF and an RBK all using Bachmann Mk1s as donors. Thanks @billbedford

 

How have others done these please - Complete replacement of existing sides or mounted the etches on to the sides?

 

Got to source other components... the Frogmore door hinges look good, any other recommendations please?

 

Cheers

 

Phil

 

 

Edited by Phil Bullock
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3 hours ago, Daddyman said:

This is how Larry Goddard does it, and my intention was to follow him, removing the whole side: 

http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/lner-constituent-coaches.7602/

 

The hinges are good, yes - drill 0.5mm for the locating spigot. 


A very useful link many thanks

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On 18/09/2020 at 08:52, Daddyman said:

This is how Larry Goddard does it, and my intention was to follow him, removing the whole side: 

http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/lner-constituent-coaches.7602/

 

The hinges are good, yes - drill 0.5mm for the locating spigot. 


Cheers

 

As there will be quite a bit of handling....exhibition layout stock...am going to try sticking them on to Bachmann sides. On an initial look they will still be within the roof gutter so should not be too over width....

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Posted (edited)

Diagram 17 RF is first to run in the Newton Abbot - Newton le Willows motorail. A blue grey CK was lurking in the projects box so that became the donor victim.

 

The construction of Bachmann MK1s lends itself well to this process ....it can be broken down in to roof, sides and floor/ends. The sides have had all raised details removed and the first one has had the window apertures opened up to align with the Mousa models side....Bachmann and Bill used the same measuring tape, dimensions all align nicely. 
 

Planning on fitting hinges and door stops then painting before adding door and grab handles which were bare metal. Glazing to go inside the etched sides , as they are so thin the hassle of flush glazing might be avoided.

 

Roof to be redone too....no more ribs in this restaurant!

 

8642F786-513B-4EEF-9F93-70438F81976B.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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Posted (edited)

The moment came to test my sanity and attach the side....

 

Decided best plan was to reassemble sides roof and floor to keep all square. Put masking tape in at top and bottom of side in case of glue ooze. Rolled some tumble home in to the etch using SWMBOs rolling pin...,,

 

And applied super glue gel generously to coach side before offering up etch using roof gutter and ends for alignment. Rather pleased with how the etch has gone on... and managed to avoid sticking myself to assembly, just a bit of glue on surface of etch but nowt that won’t polish off. 
 

Now for the other side....

2D5C373E-8045-4FD6-B168-302D0B8A4356.jpeg

DA48626F-5E28-4619-BBF1-9ACF6B5CBCB9.jpeg

Edited by Phil Bullock
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Evostik is usually the glue to use. Beware extremes of temperature as the brass and plastic will expand at different rates and may result in fracturing the super glued joint. Evostik has a bit more give in it.

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2 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said:

Looking at end on photo a touch of glue needed on lower corner.....

 

Phil,

 

I would try and get a little more of a curve into the second side - that will help the top and bottom corners conform to the profile of the donor coach.

 

I have fitted Comet etched sides to a good many donor coaches; I was not initially happy with the increased width as a result of applying the etch over the moulded side.

 

My standard practice now is to remove the entire sides between the inner faces of the end mouldings. I then file the edges of the ends to remove the thickness of the etched sides.

 

In order to locate the etches and provide a strong bond, I glue a strip of plastic section along the eaves, under the gutter.

 

The lower edge of the etched side can also be strengthened / stiffened by soldering a strip of brass to the inside, in order to bring the thickness of the new sides up to that of the original plastic side.

 

In this way, the re-sided coach ends up exactly the same width as the original donor coach.

 

A little more work but, IMHO, well worth it.

 

John Isherwood.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, MikeTrice said:

Evostik is usually the glue to use. Beware extremes of temperature as the brass and plastic will expand at different rates and may result in fracturing the super glued joint. Evostik has a bit more give in it.

 

1 hour ago, cctransuk said:

 

Phil,

 

I would try and get a little more of a curve into the second side - that will help the top and bottom corners conform to the profile of the donor coach.

 

I have fitted Comet etched sides to a good many donor coaches; I was not initially happy with the increased width as a result of applying the etch over the moulded side.

 

My standard practice now is to remove the entire sides between the inner faces of the end mouldings. I then file the edges of the ends to remove the thickness of the etched sides.

 

In order to locate the etches and provide a strong bond, I glue a strip of plastic section along the eaves, under the gutter.

 

The lower edge of the etched side can also be strengthened / stiffened by soldering a strip of brass to the inside, in order to bring the thickness of the new sides up to that of the original plastic side.

 

In this way, the re-sided coach ends up exactly the same width as the original donor coach.

 

A little more work but, IMHO, well worth it.

 

John Isherwood.


Many thanks Mike and John.

 

Definitely on a learning curve here. 
 

Mike .... read the comments re both glues .. had the superglue to hand so went for it. The etches will also be pinned to the plastic by the yet to be added hinges, door and grab handles so I think it will have to go some for the glue bond to fail. Will report back and say you were right if it does.....

 

John.... many thanks know you have done a few. First test shot here so forgive learning curve, confidence building here. Never resprayed a blue/grey so keen to get to that point, no point in making more work at this stage if I can’t get a decent finish. At least two more to come .... BFK and RKB ... and don’t forget on Abbotswood these pass the viewers at 1ft distance at a scale 60 mph....

 

Thanks again both

Edited by Phil Bullock
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46 minutes ago, Phil Bullock said:

Never resprayed a blue/grey ...

 

In my experience - years ago - getting the white lining to look straight / consistent is the challange.

 

John Isherwood.

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5 hours ago, Phil Bullock said:

Diagram 17 RF is first to run in the Newton Abbot - Newton le Willows motorail. A blue grey CK was lurking in the projects box so that became the donor victim.

 

The construction of Bachmann MK1s lends itself well to this process ....it can be broken down in to roof, sides and floor/ends. The sides have had all raised details removed and the first one has had the window apertures opened up to align with the Mousa models side....Bachmann and Bill used the same measuring tape, dimensions all align nicely. 
 

Planning on fitting hinges and door stops then painting before adding door and grab handles which were bare metal. Glazing to go inside the etched sides , as they are so thin the hassle of flush glazing might be avoided.

 

Roof to be redone too....no more ribs in this restaurant!

 

8642F786-513B-4EEF-9F93-70438F81976B.jpeg

Hi Phil

 

Diagram 17 from a Lima cut and shut from a RB and CK. There is more than one way to peel a potato (a vegan version of the skinning a cat expression, we don't want to upset people do we).

001.jpg.faf3389933767a0f8fee7579f1995c4f.jpg

002.jpg.db8e5bc6d6dcfefc8775c2c4d99097f1.jpg

 

Now will I be brave enough to do a similar job on the new Hornby RB and a CK.

 

I am always interested to see how other people have approached making stuff that has not yet been done by the RTR boys and girls.

 

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Nice one Clive, am now on to looking at the roof and underfloor kit. Roof configuration for mine will be as built so everything on the CK roof has to come off.... vents, rain strips, filler and... ribs.

 

under floor kit is harder to tie down.....

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The famous Parkin book on MK1s useful also RF 325 was a Royal train vehicle for many a year so pictures of gas boxes and fridge vents and extra battery boxes fairly easy found.    The Parkin supplement  on back cover has a low lit RF in Maroon showing 4 gas bottles on kitchen side and how vents sit .   

All looking good and happy modelling!

Robert   

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Posted (edited)

So decided to avoid 325 and go for 324.... there were not that many that hadn’t been converted to other diagrams by 1970 but 324 was a blue/grey dual heat VB vehicle riding on commonwealths so probably not altered much from as built.

 

Will do roof vents as per as built diagram .... @Robert Shrivesthanks for that, have the main book which doesn’t have a lot... but don’t have the supplment.

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Here’s yesterday’s progress with sides attached and roof  stripped of detail and primed. Hunting for the underframe detailing.... have got sufficient Bachmann battery boxes but can anyone recommend a source of gas bottle cupboards please?

 

 

732ABBAC-B2BD-4F7A-A744-ED461CFEFF2B.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Cheers Tony ... but not the easiest for comms I guess. Any way have answered my own problem... photos suggest the underfloor gubbins on the RF is the same as the RU and I happen to have one of the original Bachmann maroon RUs sat in the spare coaches box - badly weathered - so will cannibalise that one.

 

Can use the interior too.....

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Posted (edited)

Cheers @MJI those are the ones. Stripped some off an RU for the moment  and have now asked Bacchy if they have any spares. Where did yours come from?

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1 hour ago, Phil Bullock said:

Cheers @MJI those are the ones. Stripped some off an RU for the moment  and have now asked Bacchy if they have any spares. Where did yours come from?

 

My own moulds, needed them for older RTR detailing, gave up hunting so made my own, not brilliant but look OK.

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