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Tool or Method for Boring Horizontally Through Laid Track Webbing??


Ray Von
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Firstly, is webbing the right term?!  I mean the plastic that forms the sleepers and the support for rails in most track.

In my case, N gauge flexitrack.

 

Having laid down track, pinned it and then added third rail detail - my layout plan changed and I added a set of points parallel but behind these four sections of track.  The problem was that the points were going to be controlled by brass rod o at baseboard level, so I needed to get a tunnel of over 1mm diameter through the plastic.

IMG_20200918_195139027.jpg.0f53af8104640fc4b1c69bb4d25a5170.jpg

 

I have managed to do it, but I'm not particularly proud of my method for doing so - basically inserting a scalpel blade at alternating sides of the rail until plastic finally gave.  Not my best work, and I did accidentally scratch the top of the rails a few times before using a piece of plastic packaging as a guard.

 

Here's the "tunnel":

IMG_20200918_195225035.jpg.f2d12728f5b80daababfd4fd4cc36919.jpg

It worked - technically, but if I ever have to do this again does anyone have any ideas?  I thought about a heated wire to make an initial hole and then feeding through some kind of a flexible abrasive wire or cord to form a neat aperture?

 

Edited by Ray Von
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Well as the old man said when asking for directions,  I wouldn't start from here! 

Inevitably our plans change, so things like this have to be incorporated. I wouldn't use anything to melt it as in would worry it would go to far.  You have probably done the best you can.  Dodd you consider going underneath the baseboard?

Ian

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Why not simply drill a hole with a pin vice or Archimedes drill 

 

If you require a 3/4th rail why not try using Peco's IL-120 conductor rail chairs cut down, and a smaller code of rail ? Full instructions on the rear of the pack I know the pots are too big but in the absence of anything else ?

 

 

 

 

Edited by hayfield
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2 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Well as the old man said when asking for directions,  I wouldn't start from here! 

Inevitably our plans change, so things like this have to be incorporated. I wouldn't use anything to melt it as in would worry it would go to far.  You have probably done the best you can.  Dodd you consider going underneath the baseboard?

Ian

Thanks Ian, that was my original plan, and I did install rods under the board - as it was 1mm rod it tended to bend at the right angled sections, rendering it unreliable.

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3 minutes ago, hayfield said:

Why not simply drill a hole with a pin vice or Archimedes drill 

 

If you require a 3/4th rail why not use Pecos IL-120 conductor rail chairs and code 60 rail? Full instructions on the rear of the pack

 

https://peco-uk.com/products/conductor-rail-chairs?_pos=2&_sid=4e010e2e0&_ss=r

 

https://peco-uk.com/products/code-60-flat-bottom-rail?_pos=1&_sid=4e010e2e0&_ss=r

The holes I needed were horizontal and at baseboard level the Archimedes drill couldn't approach the track at anywhere near the necessary angle, especially between lines.

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4 minutes ago, hayfield said:

If its the hole in the baseboard that needs to be made oval, buy a drill bit that cuts sideways ( Dremel do them), look for side cutting drill bits

Thanks, I do have a Dremel and find it invaluable - would such an attachment fit in the space between my lines though?

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Am I correct you want a slot under the tiebar ? If so drill a pilot hole with the point in place, remove the point use the cutter or router unit to open out the hole. I bought a standard Dremel drill and I think a side cutting drill was included, plus a router attachment (Plastic head)

Edited by hayfield
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If I'm reading the problem correctly, then either a gun drill if you can get the right combination of diameter and length, or as a simpler and cheaper method, get a length of steel rod of the correct diameter and file a cutting edge on the end and feed it slowly through.

 

Mike.

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I think what's needed is some sort of blade that is VERY slim (from top to bottom) starts at a point then levels off keeping a sharp edge along the horizontal plane. I used an 11 scalpel blade, which is about thirty degree angle.

Edited by Ray Von
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On second thoughts.   Have you one of those flexible shafts, if so put a drill bit of the correct size

 

Or use one of those larger Swann Morton blades with a long thin blade, see below buy the better quality handle and blade. the fourth from either the right or left blades, don't buy the thin scalpels

 

s-l300.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Ray Von said:

I think what's needed is some sort of blade that is VERY slim (from top to bottom) starts at a point then levels off keeping a sharp edge along the horizontal plane. I used an 11 scalpel blade, which is about thirty degree angle.

 

 

With scalpels I use a number 10a but the blades will break too easily

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Bit of brass tube the same diameter as your smallest soldering iron bit, flatten it at one end (and file it to size if necessary), bend the end over at 90deg and use it as a hot chisel.

 

But be quick ! (And try it on a bit of scrap first !!)

 

Edit - on reflection Enterprisingwestern's long thin drill bit is probably less hazardous !

Edited by Wheatley
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2 hours ago, Wheatley said:

Bit of brass tube the same diameter as your smallest soldering iron bit, flatten it at one end (and file it to size if necessary), bend the end over at 90deg and use it as a hot chisel.

I'd be inclined to use the brass tubing that will finally be used as the 'tool'. Take a short piece, bent 90-degrees (or less if access is good) and wire-wrap it to the soldering iron tip (while cold of course!). Once hot, push the brass tubing end through the flexitrack webbing under the rail, rail-by-rail. When all rails are done, you should be able to push your final brass tube under all the tracks.

 

Ian

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I have previously used a #11 blade in a scalpel handle as the angle is good, but heated it up first with a hot soldering iron or more recently a hot air blower  to help it melt through rather than cut. Too much cutting pressure risks damage to the tracks

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I would have used the hot wire technique and then used some tubing to run the wire through, otherwise it  runs the risk of gumming up with ballast.

 

As most ready to lay track comes with sleepers that are too close together, I now cut away the webs and lay them individually. Tedious but worth the effort IMHO. Dead frogs are going to be eliminated too. Unfortunately, the one point I've laid and ballasted is dead frog so a mini pneumatic drill is necessary....

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