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3x PRMRP TTA Tanks Build


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Hi, 

I'm busy with several projects on the go at the moment. 

From the completed: A DJH Brush type 2:

IMG_20200727_174704.jpg.b57a6d8df1d9e6430af7bc875241641f.jpg

 

A Hymek type 3 from a Blue Flyer body and PRMRP conversion kit plus bits of scratchbuilding:

IMG_20200727_174619.jpg.ca5b4a4d2d17aa67caf3c2cd8b16a0a8.jpg

 

More to follow. 

 

Cheers 

 

Edited by woodyfox
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I've also completed a BR brake van based on an example at Darlington in '78 (Slater' s kit slightly adapted) :

IMG_20200719_160108.jpg.d7686d0a98b63df2289c9269f51103ee.jpg

Also now very close to completion are 3 TTA tanks based on Powell Duffryn built examples. These are PRMRP kits with adaptions and a bit of scratchbuilding to suit. I plan to build another 6 of these to form a rake depicting the transport of kerosene:

 

IMG_20200913_115602.jpg

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I've also just started on a PRMRP 37/0 kit. This is real challenge and is already a highly enjoyable learning experience! 

I'll proceed through this build with some detail. It's a basic kit and much effort is required to achieve a decent looking EE type 3. I'll post images of progress a little later. 

I also have a PRMRP class 40 and Easybuild 108 in the queue. I'll probably stagger the start of these and work on all 3 at once. 

 

Cheers

 

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Thanks Dougal. The TTA's have their primer and top coat on now and i hope to get some transfers on this weekend. 

The 37 comes with a partially formed body shell. The first thing to sort is the right width across the central areas of of the body. This, hopefully sorts the roof arc profile. The max width of a 37 is 8ft 10 and a quarter (ish) which equates to about 61.9mm. I made up some frames from scrap etch that measure a tad under to allow for the thickness of the etched sides (x2). These will be soldered inside the body and will help to add a bit of rigidity. 

IMG_20200727_175006.jpg.e4378333d0983156e3f9fb19410f746f.jpg

IMG_20200913_150110.jpg.3bb59104d296a724da57264414812dd4.jpg

 

Next job will be chassis. 

 

Cheers

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The inner bogie frames are of a generic length and need to be reduced in length. This is straightforward if you use the cast outer bogie sides as a guide. They are marked and cut via etched lines with a decent blade:

IMG_20200919_102113.jpg.3cac1aadbc4292c97f62e28df211db97.jpg

 

The centre axle holes are elongated to allow for compensation. The outer axles are accomodated within saddles that need to be folded and soldered onto the main inner frame at the correct wheelbase distance. I used the bogie outer frame as a guide again. IMG_20200919_121750.jpg.8869566ba4f0dc4354a0078b27db9991.jpg

 

The centre axles will have slightly deeper bushes to allow a spring wire to ne soldered to them. These are from Eileen's. The centre axle hole above is covered with permanent marker ink to stop the bushes being soldered when the spring wire is attached. 

 

Cheers

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Spring wire added and bushes soldered in:

IMG_20200920_131741.jpg.510e2303337214f63ee8e7c83830debf.jpg

 

The holes for the bushes need opening outva tad as do the holes for the motor in the top saddle. These will be primed and sprayed with matt black (with the TTA's) before motor fitting. The axles have been test fitted and run nice and smoothly. 

Next step will be outer bogie sides. These are white metal castings in two pieces with brake cylinders (12) and cab steps. They'll have to be a bit of extra detailing here to make them look like EE co-co bogies. 

 

Cheers

 

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The outer bogie castings need some tidying and straightening. This PRMRP kit is one of those where the need to refer to detailed images is absolutely essential. The obvious parts that will need to be fabricated are the pipe runs off the brake cylinders, handbrake chains and linkage and brake shoes and gear. I can't see that any means have been provided to secure the outer frames to the inner chassis yet. They may be in the kit somewhere? But that may be a consideration too.. 

IMG_20200920_131826.jpg.0580eaecb5c2e9ef45d67f9c3503d878.jpg

IMG_20200920_131801.jpg.cc28caec5674120f9d6093d6fa4bf7d8.jpg

There is also a fault with the step etches. The brass is very thin on the fold lines and one side frame on a step had been 'etched' so thin that it had fallen away. This will be an additional scratchbuild. There is also no means of attaching the folded up steps to the bogie frame and the cylinder for the centre axle is under the top step so fettling and offering up will be the game of the day! 

All great fun.. 

Cheers

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A short break from 37 bogies and a start on the rather laborious task of adding transfers to the TTA's. 

IMG_20200926_172014.jpg.8d08d92680260df8991ac3dea2de5440.jpg

Here is one side almost done. There are just overhead warning flashes to add near the ladders and vehicle numbering on the TOPS data panel. I also need to source the numerals for the tank ends. These are the taller type font numbers. I've added the plate for them as per prototype:

IMG_20200926_174758.jpg.5f50934c841719f7491965024a5a07aa.jpg

 

Cheers

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The 37's outer bogie frames are done as far as possible upto being able to fit them onto the inner chassis:IMG_20200927_153802.jpg.75b78af8e4e80fe4d7ea9d9076408cbc.jpg

The hand brake chains will need to be blackened. Once the sides have been offered upto the inner frames with wheels, i can think about brakes and other detailing. Everything was soldered on and should be solid enough to survive the scrubbing they need. 

Cheers

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5 hours ago, 37114 said:

Good luck with the class 37 build, looks a fun project. Very impressed with the class 31, and lovely weathering

Thanks. The DJH stuff makes up into lovely models but take a long time and a lot of effort! 

The 37 presents a few problems that will give a great sense of achievement when it's finished. 

The TTA's are far from a beginner's kit too and need loads of work to get them to look OK. The tank ends are big white metal (possibly pewter?) castings that were pitted and not rounded. The below image shows the amount of filler and rubbing down needed. 

IMG_20200814_105108.jpg.18540a514d7852bcacb00936e1f0c212.jpg

 

Cheers

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12 hours ago, woodyfox said:

Thanks. The DJH stuff makes up into lovely models but take a long time and a lot of effort!

I still think their 47 is the best of the various efforts including JLTRT and that 31 captures the look well for me as well.

 

Were they behind the Tower warship? I've got one in my stash to do one day.

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25 minutes ago, Hal Nail said:

I still think their 47 is the best of the various efforts including JLTRT and that 31 captures the look well for me as well.

 

Were they behind the Tower warship? I've got one in my stash to do one day.

Yes, the Tower Warship is DJH origin i think. The heavy pewter casting (otherwise known as the file destroyer) will be a beast of the thing to work on I would imagine!

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When I opened out the rad fan hole in the casting for the 31, it took about 2 hours solid of grinding and filing. I also possess a mini-drill and I went through virtually all of my grinding stone attachments and several coarse sanding drums too. I eventually resorted back to coarse hand files. 

You can be pretty brutal with the casting and it's a huge heat sink when soldering! I used a two part epoxy to attach the roof panels on the 31. I've previously built a Brush 4 from DJH and soldered the roof parts using a blowtorch without any damage to the pewter!

The Brush 4 (now sold on) is below:

 

1021024167_47end.jpg.1cd48235fe47ad2734de0b0e2cbdf4b2.jpg

I learned a lot from building this one when tackling the 31.

The etches and castings from DJH really are high quality and you get a proper heavy weight machine with real presence when complete. 

 

Cheers

Edited by woodyfox
Typo!
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Hi,

The TTA's are ready for a coat of Dullcote prior to weathering:

IMG_20200930_162212.jpg.7463395c1acd824fd706a991d00eeaa8.jpg

 

Work turns back to the 37. I've begun to motorise the chassis. A simple method to produce a quiet motor/gear relationship is to angle the motor so that the mesh adjusts slightly. This is simply done by adding a brass or plastic shim between the motor and frame top as below:

 

IMG_20200930_161934.jpg

I've also blackened the wheels prior to motorising. Next job Delrin fitting. 

Cheers 

Edited by woodyfox
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A consideration when fitting the Delrin is how to fix the drive gears to the axles. There is normally not much room on the motored axle with the main gear and Delrin cog alongside each other. The glueing of the plastic cog onto the steel axle without gumming up the axle is a difficult process. My solution is to file a slight flat on the axle and drill through a 0.7mm hole. Repeat for the cog. Reassemble the axle and gears and thread a 0.7mm wire through the holes with a dab of super glue on. Once set trim down the wire:

IMG_20200930_164617.jpg.311dedf92e621b94a2a58841c12074fe.jpg

IMG_20200930_165732.jpg.d684858bfa953292d4b70bee553656c7.jpg

 

This is repeated on the other axle and gives a trouble free traction. 

 

Cheers

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Bogies are progressing. I found some etches that fold to U shaped channels. This is mentioned in the instructions (must read them more often...!). I soldered these to the ends of the inner chassis and then (following filing and constant offering up and measurement) soldered the bogie sides on. I tinned the brass cross channels with 188 solder and then used 70 deg to attach the sides, holding all square with Blu-tac. 

IMG_20201002_172801.jpg.02b92849d3ac370eee26f4c91929d6d0.jpg

IMG_20201002_172726.jpg.5ca39031d5d85b52247d5ce10b5f8cde.jpg

 

They look a bit low on detail for me so next job will be extra detailing. I've got some white metal brake gear in the spares box and i'll have a go at scratchbuilding some slack adjusters too. The guards supplied are chunky white metal, so i might try to scratch together a brass alternative here too. 

 

Cheers

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Here's a small shed that i scrarchbuilt from plastic sheet just as a small distraction when kit building hits a problem needing thought:

IMG_20200930_162302.jpg.956b15efcbb0606b8e590be165f6a50e.jpg

This is copied from a single image of a small shed sat next to a 'box (now defunct) in Hull. I tried a technique i read by a French structure modeller on using a fine brass wire brush to create woodgrain on plastic. It actually works OK. 

Cheers

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Making it up on the hoof with what i have to hand i've made a start on the slack adjusters for the 37. From the instructions with the kit, i get the idea that there isn't much room when bogies swing near the centre tanks. This means i won't be trying to replicate exactly from images but i'll try to create an impression that's acceptable when weathered and viewed at a normal distance. 

Anyway here's the materials of choice - some scrap etches and 0.7mm wire. IMG_20201003_090015.jpg.695023c9d166df29691d3a53188748ed.jpg

 I found some etches that look like linkages for brake gear (possibly DJP 35t tank wagon left over?). These have been trimmed and i've soldered some 0.7mm wire with elongated loops into the etched grove. These will be filed down to attempt to represent the rods that poke out betwixt wheel and outer frame. I need 8 and these have been measured to be double ended for chopping in two. 

IMG_20201003_095807.jpg.6238e7707667219325da6a8d8946faf0.jpg

 

Just as an aside, when i'm soldering small bits like these i wear one of these on my steadying (left) hand. They are called Airman's Gloves (RAF issue) and can be bought on Ebay for about 25 to 30 pounds. The leather is thin enough to aid sufficient dexterity but will resist a 450 deg iron for about 8 to 10 secs. More than enough time to solder small items. 

IMG_20201003_095825.jpg.f76e8695bccffc440b0d4caac2f070b9.jpg

 

Cheers

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The white metal brake gear i have needs quite a bit of adaption to fit. Then it needs to be secured along with the other bits and still look acceptably realistic without taking an age to complete. I've plumped for drilling the inner frames and threading through 0.7mm wire. This will provide a solid frame to hang brakes and other bits on. IMG_20201003_120347.jpg.6f3bafafee34b829e016fea552199833.jpg

First brake block added. The rods and slack adjusters will slide on to this wire too gradually building up detail. The thin brake was soldered on with 70 deg and a 450 deg iron with a very swift wipe with the iron tip! 

Cheers

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One side of one bogie completed. 0.7mm wire used for all the brake gear etc.. It won't survive close inspection, but it's an improvement! 

IMG_20201003_131937.jpg.f0d230b5e219b515e343978a535ec196.jpg

 

IMG_20201003_142000.jpg.a61d4b0b59e6cbe70d1024f64a596ccc.jpg

I also added some 0.3mm wire to represent the airlines visible at the front and rear of a 37 bogie. 

 

Cheers

Edited by woodyfox
Forgot some info
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TTA's are almost complete. Just a bit more weathering and a wheel clean needed:

IMG_20201006_171206.jpg.07ac71649ed2207c17142e3253365894.jpg

BPO60677. 

IMG_20201006_171201.jpg.f12c9aee6ff08dc020009d50320fb429.jpg

BPO60692

IMG_20201006_171157.jpg.3933a6aee11a8aea5341de881380a1b4.jpg

BPO60681

IMG_20201006_171152.jpg.1643a913b08dcda5d68c4ba1406a16a3.jpg

And all 3 approximately where i plan to have a terminal siding on the layout. 6 to 9 of these are going to look really good trundling around. 

Cheers

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  • woodyfox changed the title to 3x PRMRP TTA Tanks Build

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