3x PRMRP TTA Tanks Build

[woodyfox]

Decent progress on the 108 cars. The early stages are all about preparation. The four sides have hinges and stops fitted. The ends have unnecessary mouldings removed. The roofs have been marked and drilled for the vents to be fitted later. The cabs have also been prepped with holes drilled for the wipers and the cab glazing sanded to size to fit later. I'm now ready to begin assembling the cars:

 

 

One cab and side and one end and the other side are married first (on a glass plate). I then (once welded) run a fillet of. 4mm plastic rod on the inside to strengthen the joint. These will be left overnight to properly harden before the two sections and roof are brought together. 

Cheers 

 

[woodyfox]

The roofs are on the two cars. I used MEK and reinforced with 0.4mm rod again. These will be left a couple of days now to set hard while i do the bogies and get on with the 37. 

 

 

For some reason one roof sits nice and flush but the other is about 1mm proud in the centre area. This is easily sorted with sanding and filler. 

I'm now in mid ponderance around fixing the floors onto the bodies. Easy Build keep mentioning sagging floors once all the underfloor detail is added so I'll have toadd a cross brace to the car sides and install a captive nut to hold it all straight. Long bolts are supplied and I've added the matching nuts into the roof channels in case i have to use them. My alternative will probably be these (shown with the supplied bolts):

 

These nuts and bolts are salvage from some long disposed item. I'll reduce the length of the longer ones and solder the nuts to some brass cross bracing - well that's plan A! 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

Before axles are mounted they need to be blackened:

Blackening kit ready:

 

And 30 minutes later... 

 

Blackened wheels buffers and couplings. Two pairs of the couplings will be used on a parcel van i have in the queue. 

 

Cheers 

 

[woodyfox]

The three non-powered DMU bogies have been made up. One minor deficiency of Easy-Build DMU's are the poor representation of brake gear. 

The triangular shapes are all that is present in the kit for brakes. When i built the 101 i spent some time on representing the brakes and the bogies looked much better for it. 

I've cut some strip about 3mm wide from 1mm plastic sheet. These were cut into 14mm lengths to represent the hangers. The Easy-Build brakes were glued to these. I also cut some 2mm wide strip from a. 8mm sheet and heat curled these. They will be chopped up into pieces to represent brake blocks. Above is the 32 blocks needed for a 2 car set. I had to scracth up 2 blocks as there were only 30 supplied in the kit. 

Next job will be trimming, drilling and detailing the brakes then fitting to the 3 bogies. I'll have to add some support to the bogies to hang the brakes on. The motor bogie brakes will be fitted once it's been completely built with Delrin fitted etc.. 

 

I've also completed the first sanding of the 37 cabs and noses. The noses look OK, but a further layer of filler has been applied to the cab roofs. 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

Classic 7mm kit building moment for  me:

The DMBS, driver's side........ 

I realised the coolant filler was in the wrong place! It's the kind of thing that will niggle me so correction required. 

Half an hour later and it's in the right place! Just need to smooth off the old filled in hole... 

On a positive note, the roof profile is done on the DMBS 

Now i can concentrate on the bogies again. 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

I've now almost completed the bogies. Upto final build fittings (speedo cabling etc..) and painting. I've probably invested around 16 hours into this part of the build alone but i think the final result will be worth it. 

The brakes have been better detailed with hangers, blocks and some linkages added as extra to the kit. 

 

The motor bogie build is going well and I've had the powered axle running. There is a significant error in the kit here that is easily overcome. The brass channel below sits below the motor and has the brass gear turn within it. The issue is that the grub screw sits too proud and thus catches the bottom edge of on side of the channel thus preventing a full rotation. 

The gear can be moved a few mm either way but it should sit centrally on the motor shaft gear and the grub still hits the etch edge. The solution is to disassemble (screws/nuts) and cut out a section of the edge to allow free running. It takes about 5 mins. 

 

Motor bogie has been reassembled and runs well. Just need to fit pick-ups on this and the DMBS leading bogie and brakes on the motor bogie. 

Cheers

[pwr]

You've made a good job of those bogies!

 

Paul R

[woodyfox]

Hussar! The DMBS has sat on its bogies for the first time. I'm able to check bogie swing/clearance, motor swing, squareness, ride height and step positioning. The cab steps are good and i can mark the motor bogie for the alignment of the van steps. 

Pick ups are a work in progress as are the brakes on the motor bogie. 

I have also made good progress on the 37 profiling too:

No1 end

No2 end. 

The below shows the very slight slope now from back to front on the cab roof:

 

Might look like a EE type 3 now... 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

108 DMBS van steps. 

Images of the prototype show the van steps are longer than the cab steps to span the double doors with 3 support struts as opposed to two on the cab steps. Easybuild supply step etches only like those of the cab however, you get twice as many as you need! 

I have modified these to represent those of the prototype a little more closely. I cut one strut off one of the etches and folded up the steps on both (repeat for other steps). I then took the 'scrap' strut and used it as a brace to solder the two sides together:

 

I then cut some wood to length and width (lollipop stick) and rounded the facing corners. These were glued to the folded etch steps. I also added some rivets as per prototype. Here are the completed steps with the correct number of struts and (roundabout) the correct length:

 

Cheers

 

[woodyfox]

The bogies are now done bar the pick up wiring. They'll be collection from both DMBS bogies. The differences in the cab and van steps can be seen as per below:

 

I've also got the windscreens fitted on the 37 too. There is much fettling required here due to my previous cab roof surgery:

 

Next stages:

Body to solebar fixing on the DMU. 

Sanding the filler on the 37 windows. 

And i'm midway through building a Parkside SPV diag 1/800.

Cheers

 

[woodyfox]

Hi, 

DMU progress. 

I've attempted a new way to obtain a captive nut effect for attaching the solebars to the vehicle bodies on the 108. The issue of captive nuts for me are:

1. It is a nervy job soldering a steel nut precisely over a hole on a sheet of brass by getting a good bond and not flooding the nut thread with solder. 

2. The DMU cars are plastic and bonding brass firmly enough to it would involve using a two part epoxy that is messy and wasteful. 

3. The brass holding the nut would require further strengthening to provide sufficient support. 

 

So i opted for this method involving soldering lengths of 1.5mm brass wire in parallel to the sides of the nut:

These were the superglued to a base of 1.5mm plastic that was cut to the width of the doorways on the cars (15mm) and to the width of tge bodysides for later bonding. I then added further plastic pieces to lock in the brass wire and nut. This was left overnight to harden off. It was then fitted into the cars as below:

 

These are bonded in using MEK and extra plastic support packing. This will be left another 24 hours to harden. The nuts are now solidly captured in the bracing which should be strong and barely visible when the cars are complete. 

I also cut down the length of the bolts to further enhance appearance:

The cut off bolts were added to my scrap metal pile. This is all my plastic, and metal waste. I've saved it all to eventually make into scrap metal loads for 16 tonners. 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

Class 37 fuel tanks are now fitted. These have been braced with scrap brass strip underneath and on on the sides so that weights can be added. 

 

I fairly happy with progress and how it looks when sat on the bogies:

 

Just detailing, the nose ends, buffer skirts and buffer beams to do now. Then i'll need to add the rad fan and scratch up some cab desks etc.. 

Cheers 

[Hal Nail]

That really looks the part. I think your right hand nose edge above the two side grills just rises up slightly towards the front - easy to file level now but the sort of thing that would stand out after painting!

 

I hope you dont mind me saying I liked the idea of real wood steps on the dmu but I think they are too thick and look over scale for me which is a pity when the rest is so good.

 

Dont like picking holes but two things that are easily fixed now!

 

 

Edited November 17, 2020 by Hal Nail

[woodyfox]

9 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

That really looks the part. I think your right hand nose edge above the two side grills just rises up slightly towards the front - easy to file level now but the sort of thing that would stand out after painting!

 

I hope you dont mind me saying I liked the idea of real wood steps on the dmu but I think they are too thick and look over scale for me which is a pity when the rest is so good.

 

Dont like picking holes but two things that are easily fixed now!

 

 

Yes. I'll check the nose. And you are right about the steps on the DMU. The steps are also too close together which adds to that effect i think. 

 

I'll see if i have some thinner wood and change them. I don't think the spacing between them can be altered too easilt though. 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

3 hours ago, woodyfox said:

Yes. I'll check the nose. And you are right about the steps on the DMU. The steps are also too close together which adds to that effect i think. 

 

I'll see if i have some thinner wood and change them. I don't think the spacing between them can be altered too easilt though. 

 

Cheers

I've altered the steps. I've used the same wood as it's only 1.3mm which equates to around a shade under 2ins in 1:1 scale. This is thinnest wood i have to hand and now I've managed to heighten the upper step they look much better. Thanks Hal Nail. I just need to touch up the paint work now:

 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

12 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

That really looks the part. I think your right hand nose edge above the two side grills just rises up slightly towards the front - easy to file level now but the sort of thing that would stand out after painting!

 

I hope you dont mind me saying I liked the idea of real wood steps on the dmu but I think they are too thick and look over scale for me which is a pity when the rest is so good.

 

Dont like picking holes but two things that are easily fixed now!

 

 

I also checked the slope on the 37 nose and its fine - possibly the angle of the image? 

 

Cheers

[Hal Nail]

1 hour ago, woodyfox said:

I also checked the slope on the 37 nose and its fine - possibly the angle of the image? 

 

Cheers

Steps look good!

 

I did wonder if the nose thing was distortion on the pic as its right on the edge. Just thought worth saying something its one of those things that if you noticed after painting would niggle!

[woodyfox]

Another evening of contemplation beckons (perhaps a large armchair, pipe and brandy should be sought). The issue is to backdate the PRMRP 37/0 to a pre-refurbed buffer beam as per this image (sorry for the graininess!). 

 

This is what the buffer beam post refurb looks like on my 37:

 

So far i've made a template from thin brass which due to the several curves of the buffer cowling on the original is a weird shape when flat:

 

Now i need to decide how i'm going to add the cowling and buffer housings. PRMRP supply oval buffers and I have already sourced large round Oleo's as replacements but the holes in the beam are way too large (of course). There's also a gap to fill between the beam and cowling. Lots to ponder before the next step... 

Cheers

[37114]

2 hours ago, woodyfox said:

Another evening of contemplation beckons (perhaps a large armchair, pipe and brandy should be sought). The issue is to backdate the PRMRP 37/0 to a pre-refurbed buffer beam as per this image (sorry for the graininess!). 

 

This is what the buffer beam post refurb looks like on my 37:

 

So far i've made a template from thin brass which due to the several curves of the buffer cowling on the original is a weird shape when flat:

 

Now i need to decide how i'm going to add the cowling and buffer housings. PRMRP supply oval buffers and I have already sourced large round Oleo's as replacements but the holes in the beam are way too large (of course). There's also a gap to fill between the beam and cowling. Lots to ponder before the next step... 

Cheers

Hi, Nice build so far, fair do's for taking this kit on. 

If you are planning to stick the buffers on front of the skirt they will stock out too far;

Not sure what make of buffer you are using but if they have a separate head, one thing you could do (which mimics reality to an extent) is to drill a hole in the  skirt you have made for the buffer shank to pop through. Fit the buffer through the hole then solder the skirt to the nose. Then add the buffer head to the buffer.

 

 

[woodyfox]

13 hours ago, 37114 said:

Hi, Nice build so far, fair do's for taking this kit on. 

If you are planning to stick the buffers on front of the skirt they will stock out too far;

Not sure what make of buffer you are using but if they have a separate head, one thing you could do (which mimics reality to an extent) is to drill a hole in the  skirt you have made for the buffer shank to pop through. Fit the buffer through the hole then solder the skirt to the nose. Then add the buffer head to the buffer.

 

 

Yes, that was my initial thought. The problem is all the different curves and angles and achieving that in brass. The buffers are PRMRP ones with separate heads. I'm inclined towards using plastic and filler and building up and taking back layers to achieve the right profile. This will allow me to mark and redrill the holes in the beam for shanks. 

Cheers

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Just found your thread, although a 4mm chap myself, there is some very useful and interesting content on it.

Consider a bulk purchase of like and craftsmanship/clever applied to each stage.

I'll be following with interest.

 

Mike.

[woodyfox]

Work on the 37 buffer skirts is ongoing. I soldered in the buffer shanks. These are lost wax castings and all 4 needed drilling out to make them work well. I used bits of plastic for packing and forming overlaid with filler. This has all been filed and sanded back to form the correct shape. Here it is with the second level of filler waiting to dry before sanding back again. 

 

I've also started on the DMU cab desks too. These are fairly generic as supplied so I've altered the handbrake wheels to a more 108 style and made up some dials that are a bit more 3d. The throttle and gear changer will have a handle fitted somehow too. 

The small brass discs i'm using for the dials are cut from DJH marker light etches. 

 

Cheers

[woodyfox]

DMU desks complete bar the painting. These shouldn't look too bad when viewed through the cab side windows. 

 

The 37 cowling has moved onto the stage where i can do the rest of the nose end detailing. There will be some odd patching to do here and there with filler. Fitting the buffers temporarily helps me to see if i have achieved the 'if it looks right, it is right' impression i strive for:

 

Cruel close ups but at least it shows the crudeness i had to resort too in order to 'unrefurbish' this kit.. 

 

Cheers 

[pwr]

It is certainly beginning to look the part

 

Paul R

[woodyfox]

Back to the DMU today. Buffer beams fitted along with shank extentions. I've also fitted the handrails and remaining cab door hinges. 

 

Now, anyone who has built a 7mm kit will, almost without fail, have encountered the following type of issue:

 

One of the exhaust stack castings hadn't formed properly. The castings supplied by Easy-Build are generally really good but the odd one probably slips through.. It was an easy fix:

 

I cut off the deformed end. Filed flat and drilled out a 1.6mm hole. Cut some 1.5mm brass wire to act as a plug and cut some 1.6mm i/d brass tube to match the length of the other stack. I inserted wire into drilled hole and tube onto wire and all done:

 

I drilled out the other stack to 1.6mm to match. Should look OK now. I also drilled out the other ends of the exhausts to 1.5mm to accept some wire that will form the exhaust from under the car. I thought it would be easier before they are fitted on the vestibule end. 

 

Next up is fitting the stacks and destination boxes. Then it's the partitions etc.. 

 

All good fun! 

 

Cheers