woodyfox Posted December 2, 2020 Author Share Posted December 2, 2020 Lots of progress over the last few days. The internals of the DMU cars has commenced. I have decided to glue the made up partitions to the cross bracing/floor attaching points i installed earlier. These are ideally located. I will make up strips of plastic with the seating glued on as removable units that will slot into the tags on the partition bottoms. I've also added some plastic strip to the roof channel that will represent the strip lighting fitted to refurbished sets: I've also made up a box from plastic sheet that fits inside of the fuel tanks on the 37. This was heavily reinforced with strip as it is full of small steel ball bearings. It had a lid glued on once full. It weighs about 750g and will add somewhat to the tractive effort.. The 37 noses are also in mid-decoration. I have fitted some scribed brass sheet to represent the centre doors pre-refurb. The WTT boxes will have some covers made up to go on them probably with the obligatory 4 zeros as common per the period modelled. There's quite a bit of filler around the boxes that needs smoothing off. Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Looking good. I made up my own 'OO' for my Heljan 37 in MS paint which came from a cropped photo I can PM you the file if it helps? 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 1 hour ago, 37114 said: Looking good. I made up my own 'OO' for my Heljan 37 in MS paint which came from a cropped photo I can PM you the file if it helps? 37114 - could I beg a copy too please? Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 1 hour ago, pwr said: 37114 - could I beg a copy too please? Paul R And me too please! Thanks. I got some from EBay due to the font being very hard to copy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, pwr said: 37114 - could I beg a copy too please? Paul R 1 hour ago, woodyfox said: And me too please! Thanks. I got some from EBay due to the font being very hard to copy! Sure, I will sort out sending them over later on tonight as I have the file on a different PC. Just to add they look quite effective if you are able to get some thin perspex to go over the top of them: Edited December 3, 2020 by 37114 clarity 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
47606odin Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 Should it not be 0O00 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 2 hours ago, 47606odin said: Should it not be 0O00 ? The majority were 4 0s. Both sides of my headcode boxes came from the same picture so they are definitely accurate 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 7, 2020 Author Share Posted December 7, 2020 DMU progress. The seating and other innards are now complete. From previous experience I have found it's good to have an assembly/disassembly sequence for adding figures etc.. Here's mine: The seating and cab parition are built as removable units. The vehicle is modified to accept the units in slots with securing wires and using tabs and nuts/bolts. Here's the cab unit fitted. Leading seat units fitted into the tabs. All are marked as you have to visualise it all the right way up. All seating units fitted. A staple shaped piece of 0.3mm wire is placed between the seat units to keep stop them sliding inwards. The floor is added. This one (DMBS) needs two short bolts in the door vestibules and a short swinging lug under the cab to keep it secure and flat. And with bogies on. The sole bars have been added via plastic strips with Slater's rivet detail sheet sections added where noticed on the prototype. Once all has been painted the vehicle should look OK. Cheers 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 Class 37 ends have been detailed. The WTT boxes will be added last with describer digits inserted. This will be a NE based loco. I need to research either Thornaby or Hull based ones around 74/75. I have an image of a split HC one at Darlington around 75 still in green somewhere. Might be a good one to do. Next fuel tank detailing. Cheers 4 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 10, 2020 Author Share Posted December 10, 2020 Class 37 is getting close to the painting stage. The bogie clearance and swing is good at both ends. The handbrake chains have been cut and attached to the link tabs and are clear of the body too. The kit may have some issues but it builds into something that actually looks like an EE type 3. I now need to complete the buffer beam pipework and build the cab units and have them removable. Final touches from painting will be fitting the rad fan and rubber air pipes/MU jumpers on the beams. Cheers 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 Credit it to you, that has to be one of the best builds I have seen of that kit, your mods do make a massive difference. 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 19, 2020 Author Share Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) The DMU is only a few paces off the painting stage. I have spent the last week on underfloor stuff. Lots of extra bits of detailing has been added via referral to images to increase the illusion of complexity. The DTCL is very simple and sparse. I searched the Easy-Build CD for DTCL underfloor diagrams to no avail and there are very few images that show DMU's side on. So some of this was best guess from grainy zoomed in images. Below the DMBS gear is so cramped and detailed in reality that the model detailing could go on forever. Mine is designed purely to please my own eye: Next buffer pipework and then vestibules and mid-unit coupling. Cheers Edited December 19, 2020 by woodyfox Edited for typo 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted December 19, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2020 DMU undergubbins and point rodding fall into the same category for me, as long as there is enough there to make it look as though there is enough going on to be prototypical then I'm OK with it. Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 Hi, The 108 buffer beams are taking shape. Images of refurbed units show one vac pipe swung up to one side rather than downwards and this has been replicated: The vac pipe is up there possibly to give easier access to an air pipe cock that's visible in some images. I assume this is a control air supply for multiple working? Anyway, Easy-Build don't supply the fitting so i made one. I followed a method i used on the TTA's. This is pretty simple and, once painted is fairly convincing. First cut a short length of brass tube (i'm doing one for each end) : I also have a length of brass wire that is a, snug fit in the tube and a finer piece for mounting. Then the tube is soldered onto the thicker wire: Next job is to file the wire on one side of the tube flat from both sides so it is flat in the middle when compared to the position of the tube. A flat face is then filed on the tube at 90 degrees to the flat on the wire. The wire on the other end of the tube is cut near to the tube and filed to be slightly proud of the tube end. This represents the bolt head on the end of air cocks. Next job is to place in a vice and drill through the middle of the flat filed on the tube with a bit size the same as the thin wire diameter. It must be kept in mind that the shut-off handle on the cock is on the left side when filling the flat on the tube. The thin wire is threaded through the hole and soldered. Everything is then trimmed to size. One side of the thin wire is left straight to be threaded through the beam for securing. The other side is cut back to about 5mm and is then bent over to represent the 'hang' of a small rubber air pipe. A silicone tube will be threaded onto this. The thicker wire part that was filed flat is bent up to represent the air cock handle. Here they are all cleaned up. These are far more robust than white metal castings and will look OK for me when fitted and painted. Cheers 3 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6775 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 DMU is looking ace, I have a 101 I really need to get done and off the WB so will be using some of your pictures & ideas. I have gone down a similar route with the bodies being removeable. Hopefully spend some time on it over Christmas. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 34 minutes ago, D6775 said: DMU is looking ace, I have a 101 I really need to get done and off the WB so will be using some of your pictures & ideas. I have gone down a similar route with the bodies being removeable. Hopefully spend some time on it over Christmas. Thanks. I've found with this one that I've struggled to keep the floors flat. They've tended to bend downwards, especially when i did the underframe constructuon using MEK solvent and superglue. I assume the chemicals cause minor contractions? Anyway enjoy the build - this is my second one and i really love tackling them. Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
D6775 Posted December 20, 2020 Share Posted December 20, 2020 I got stuck so it went back in the box, subsequently loads of other stuff has come in and been prioritised. I need to get 2/3 wagons done and finished then I'll really push on with it. There are 5xMK1's in a similar situation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 20, 2020 Author Share Posted December 20, 2020 21 minutes ago, D6775 said: I got stuck so it went back in the box, subsequently loads of other stuff has come in and been prioritised. I need to get 2/3 wagons done and finished then I'll really push on with it. There are 5xMK1's in a similar situation. The 101 is a slightly more complicated kit than the 108 and seems to have few updated features being one of the newer kits. I'm hoping to do another later this year - but i have a seed planted that might adapt it to be a class 111. I would also like a few Easy-Build MK1's too eventually. From the new year i've got a PRMRP 40 to build, 3 more TTA's, a BDA and a vanwide. I'm also planning a scratchbuild of a rake of 27t iron ore wagons that may happen this year. Longer term is a Class 104 and some more type 1 and 2 diesels (cl 14, 17 24 and 25). All such requires funds of course! On another side, i'll be starting to build pointwork for the planned layout in the garage in the new year ready for the warmer weather when it can be laid. The baseboards were built last summer and i'll have a roundy with space for a station and two decent freight loading/discharge points. The plain track is sat waiting for spring in a box.. Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 The 108 is now complete to the point where it needs painting. This will have to wait for warmer weather. I decided to try small neo-magnets for coupling between the cars. This is experimental and entirely new for me. There are two sheets of 1mm plastic between the magnet faces and this might be enough to keep the cars together. The road test this year will be interesting. I've boxed in the magnets and made a 1.5mm square rod that passes through a 2mm hole in the buffer beam. The beam has a vertical hole drilled through it (and the hole). A length of wire is then passed through the hole and the rod thus capturing the magnet coupling. The drawgear effort is spread across the entire rear of the car. The wire passes into the main rear end of the car for about 25mm so hopefully will take some decent stresses whilst being pulled. The hole in the rod the wire passes through is about 0.5mm larger than the wire. This allows easy movement in all directions to compensate for poor track riding. When painted black under the vestibule it should be hardly noticable. Next project: Another 3x TTA's from Pete at PRMRP. These will be added to the 3 already built as kerosene carriers: These are not the easiest kit to build but look great when finished. Here's what comes in the package (all x3): I'll be adding bits etc.. to make them into the TTA type i require based on images from Paul Bartlett's site as before. Cheers 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Interesting use of the magnets, I was amazed how strong the Neo magnets are, I used them to secure the handbrake operating linkage on my class 37. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted January 1, 2021 Author Share Posted January 1, 2021 22 hours ago, 37114 said: Interesting use of the magnets, I was amazed how strong the Neo magnets are, I used them to secure the handbrake operating linkage on my class 37. Yes the magnets i'm using was actually one that snapped in half when sat on a steel sheet. Today's progress on the tanks is all about preparation. There are missing rivets on the sole bars that need adding if that's your thing. Theses are aligned to the suspension holding mounts so are fairly easy to mark and press out: The square parts either side of the W iron hold the suspension mounts. These are measured against the outer solebars that are laminated on later. Marked out for embossing. There are only 6 rivets to do. Rivets added. Not perfect but will be fine under several sprays of paint.. Another preparation is the tank ends. These castings vary in quality and time spent filing, filling and smoothing now will be rewarded with a better looking wagon later: The ends are best viewed from two aspects. The ends that need to be nice and smooth and the inside rim that has the tank wrapped around it. I've concentrated on the ends first by rough filing, sanding with 400 grit, a wipe with IPA then a smooth over with filler. These will be left for 24 hours at least before smoothing off. Cheers 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 I do like these kits, I have several myself. Nice work. Dougal 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted January 2, 2021 Author Share Posted January 2, 2021 The next stage on the build is etch tidying and folding. The TTA's are very different on each side, therefore it's really important at this stage that the sides are clearly identified. I've laid out and marked the appropriate parts with a blue or black pen dot. The permanant marker pen is easily removed later with IPA. The etch folds are quite fine and delicate. The top of the chassis has two sections that require folding out to 135 degrees from flat to accommodate the tank. The fold needs to be really square here so the tank fits neatly and squarely in its final position. Next job is to mark out the sole bar locations on the chassis and solder in place. Cheers 5 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Just a minor diversion from the TTA's today. I decided to have a go at making some crossing V's for the springtime track laying. These are two 8/1 V's for a curved crossover with C blades. I've built a flat 4 foot by 2 foot board to build the turnouts on as i'll need 3 crossovers in total. I plan to have 8 turnouts and 1 set of catch points in total. I'm using C&L componants and their flexible track in the plain areas. Cheers 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 New toy just arrived. This is the Hakko FX888D. It's a 70w, 480 deg max machine. I ordered a 3.2mm bit with it so, hopefully, it will pack a punch. Not seen these before but they are top in reviews just above the Weller equivalent which was my initial intended replacement. All you really want from an iron is plenty of sustained warmth at the tip so fingers crossed! The TTA build was put on hold due to my old soldering station developing a non-repairable fault last week. I should be back on with it this week. Cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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