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3x PRMRP TTA Tanks Build


woodyfox
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Lots of progress over the last few days. The internals of the DMU cars has commenced. I have decided to glue the made up partitions to the cross bracing/floor attaching points i installed earlier. These are ideally located. I will make up strips of plastic with the seating glued on as removable units that will slot into the tags on the partition bottoms. I've also added some plastic strip to the roof channel that will represent the strip lighting fitted to refurbished sets:

IMG_20201202_155621.jpg.d438ef3e8cffc35597b6c4d915f17740.jpg

IMG_20201202_155628.jpg.6b6a317ffc241a85ad8dc65235ff43d0.jpg

 

I've also made up a box from plastic sheet that fits inside of the fuel tanks on the 37. This was heavily reinforced with strip as it is full of small steel ball bearings. It had a lid glued on once full. It weighs about 750g and will add somewhat to the tractive effort.. 

IMG_20201202_155902.jpg.d543a26f34ef92db20b0df3ca456ea13.jpg

 

The 37 noses are also in mid-decoration. I have fitted some scribed brass sheet to represent the centre doors pre-refurb. The WTT boxes will have some covers made up to go on them probably with the obligatory 4 zeros as common per the period modelled. 

IMG_20201202_155719.jpg.5d830d5781038269b00fda6d5977bdc1.jpg

 

IMG_20201202_155719.jpg.5d830d5781038269b00fda6d5977bdc1.jpg

 

There's quite a bit of filler around the boxes that needs smoothing off. 

 

Cheers

IMG_20201202_155801.jpg

IMG_20201202_155712.jpg

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1 hour ago, 37114 said:

Looking good. I made up my own 'OO' for my Heljan 37 in MS paint which came from a cropped photo  I can PM you the file if it helps?20201121_062519.jpg.6451a4e647e42f66e82ca177699b600e.jpg

 

 

37114 - could I beg a copy too please?

 

Paul R

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3 hours ago, pwr said:

 

 

37114 - could I beg a copy too please?

 

Paul R

 

1 hour ago, woodyfox said:

And me too please!

Thanks. I got some from EBay due to the font being very hard to copy! 

Sure, I will sort out sending them over later on tonight as I have the file on a different PC.

 

Just to add they look quite effective if you are able to get some thin perspex to go over the top of them:

20201105_055941.jpg.3fa15cb9621a691e6b57208361528061.jpg.b8ca2b7117c316f94166156333cb0dab.jpg

Edited by 37114
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DMU progress. The seating and other innards are now complete. From previous experience I have found it's good to have an assembly/disassembly sequence for adding figures etc.. Here's mine:

IMG_20201207_122639.jpg.031721e98fa2f58a0f022d46b69e1412.jpg

The seating and cab parition are built as removable units. 

IMG_20201207_122703.jpg.31d8df10d8bd6feccec099cefe6c87bd.jpg

The vehicle is modified to accept the units in slots with securing wires and using tabs and nuts/bolts. 

IMG_20201207_122801.jpg.2a024aec2cf849055a2a5f570e2928c3.jpg

Here's the cab unit fitted. 

IMG_20201207_122908.jpg.63d4f4c2ee8494f0deccf0d7bda8893c.jpg

Leading seat units fitted into the tabs. All are marked as you have to visualise it all the right way up. 

IMG_20201207_123129.jpg.bab3f7e6a5cca9261dd60299e889feee.jpg

All seating units fitted. A staple shaped piece of 0.3mm wire is placed between the seat units to keep stop them sliding inwards. 

IMG_20201207_123507.jpg.c5af607081dd14f4b61003850b194b3c.jpg

The floor is added. This one (DMBS) needs two short bolts in the door vestibules and a short swinging lug under the cab to keep it secure and flat. 

IMG_20201207_123848.jpg.f9acb0da204c05574d7ae4464744034a.jpg

And with bogies on. The sole bars have been added via plastic strips with Slater's rivet detail sheet sections added where noticed on the prototype. Once all has been painted the vehicle should look OK. 

IMG_20201207_123911.jpg.841499b04f4714e5d5a5080a7881c745.jpg

IMG_20201207_123855.jpg.0c9fdf59735d3c065af647d16df9fb47.jpg

 

Cheers

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Class 37 ends have been detailed. The WTT boxes will be added last with describer digits inserted. 

This will be a NE based loco. I need to research either Thornaby or Hull based ones around 74/75. I have an image of a split HC one at Darlington around 75 still in green somewhere. Might be a good one to do. 

IMG_20201208_164015.jpg.7d0b4f0500a0af5a152637457d967724.jpg

 

Next fuel tank detailing. 

 

Cheers

 

 

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Class 37 is getting close to the painting stage. The bogie clearance and swing is good at both ends. The handbrake chains have been cut and attached to the link tabs and are clear of the body too. 

IMG_20201210_162345.jpg.a857a1932a7f43115fc0678aa7179cbf.jpg

IMG_20201210_162355.jpg.99682cc4e292b9f3969b422094fd9f79.jpg

IMG_20201210_162415.jpg.08e60e281575c56012e034468c4d64c5.jpg

 

The kit may have some issues but it builds into something that actually looks like an EE type 3.

 

I now need to complete the buffer beam pipework and build the cab units and have them removable. 

Final touches from painting will be fitting the rad fan and rubber air pipes/MU jumpers on the beams. 

 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

The DMU is only a few paces off the painting stage. I have spent the last week on underfloor stuff. Lots of extra bits of detailing has been added via referral to images to increase the illusion of complexity. 

IMG_20201219_102516.jpg.43bbf281f56ea40e00c8c765099c5269.jpg

IMG_20201219_102432.jpg.b34b17a202e227884c45b44f6b1cca99.jpg

The DTCL is very simple and sparse. I searched the Easy-Build CD for DTCL underfloor diagrams to no avail and there are very few images that show DMU's side on. So some of this was best guess from grainy zoomed in images. 

Below the DMBS gear is so cramped and detailed in reality that the model detailing could go on forever. Mine is designed purely to please my own eye:

IMG_20201219_102548.jpg.7deb93b8f1c184eaf70e83d56b615fe4.jpg

IMG_20201219_103050.jpg.319e29d247f6c64f026f2a0cff25ced3.jpg

IMG_20201219_103119.jpg.28d7232a83f8360676a25b5145b6d830.jpg

 

Next buffer pipework and then vestibules and mid-unit coupling. 

 

Cheers

Edited by woodyfox
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Hi, 

The 108 buffer beams are taking shape. Images of refurbed units show one vac pipe swung up to one side rather than downwards and this has been replicated:

IMG_20201220_120158.jpg.b13bfe6501c2a273f00a19cf1a877a7a.jpg

 

The vac pipe is up there possibly to give easier access to an air pipe cock that's visible in some images. I assume this is a control air supply for multiple working? Anyway, Easy-Build don't supply the fitting so i made one. I followed a method i used on the TTA's. This is pretty simple and, once painted is fairly convincing. 

First cut a short length of brass tube (i'm doing one for each end) :

IMG_20201220_113034.jpg.fc96c61efe9d9e59259641d524ab759f.jpg

I also have a length of brass wire that is a, snug fit in the tube and a finer piece for mounting. Then the tube is soldered onto the thicker wire:

IMG_20201220_113453.jpg.42b9c0e22d3652aa68b235d935923778.jpg

 

Next job is to file the wire on one side of the tube flat from both sides so it is flat in the middle when compared to the position of the tube. A flat face is then filed on the tube at 90 degrees to the flat on the wire. 

IMG_20201220_114009.jpg.a31c7e6e3e15359e46e32008c8ead4b3.jpg

The wire on the other end of the tube is cut near to the tube and filed to be slightly proud of the tube end. This represents the bolt head on the end of air cocks. Next job is to place in a vice and drill through the middle of the flat filed on the tube with a bit size the same as the thin wire diameter. It must be kept in mind that the shut-off handle on the cock is on the left side when filling the flat on the tube. 

IMG_20201220_114625.jpg.facb56a7ab3df8a232e4ba36c67b3a80.jpg

 

The thin wire is threaded through the hole and soldered. 

IMG_20201220_114936.jpg.50ef3ec3ed0c95351f43b0bad7a612af.jpg

 

Everything is then trimmed to size. One side of the thin wire is left straight to be threaded through the beam for securing. The other side is cut back to about 5mm and is then bent over to represent the 'hang' of a small rubber air pipe. A silicone tube will be threaded onto this. The thicker wire part that was filed flat is bent up to represent the air cock handle. 

IMG_20201220_120001.jpg.f71d29cf0e15a297f57c21d70e5c1376.jpg

Here they are all cleaned up. These are far more robust than white metal castings and will look OK for me when fitted and painted. 

Cheers 

 

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DMU is looking ace, I have a 101 I really need to get done and off the WB so will be using some of your pictures & ideas. I have gone down a similar route with the bodies being removeable. Hopefully spend some time on it over Christmas.

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34 minutes ago, D6775 said:

DMU is looking ace, I have a 101 I really need to get done and off the WB so will be using some of your pictures & ideas. I have gone down a similar route with the bodies being removeable. Hopefully spend some time on it over Christmas.

Thanks. 

I've found with this one that I've struggled to keep the floors flat. They've tended to bend downwards, especially when i did the underframe constructuon using MEK solvent and superglue. I assume the chemicals cause minor contractions? 

Anyway enjoy the build - this is my second one and i really love tackling them. 

Cheers

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21 minutes ago, D6775 said:

I got stuck so it went back in the box, subsequently loads of other stuff has come in and been prioritised. I need to get 2/3 wagons done and finished then I'll really push on with it. There are 5xMK1's in a similar situation.

The 101 is a slightly more complicated kit than the 108 and seems to have few updated features being one of the newer kits. I'm hoping to do another later this year - but i have a seed planted that might adapt it to be a class 111. I would also like a few Easy-Build MK1's too eventually. 

From the new year i've got a PRMRP 40 to build, 3 more TTA's, a BDA and a vanwide. I'm also planning a scratchbuild of a rake of 27t iron ore wagons that may happen this year. Longer term is a Class 104 and some more type 1 and 2 diesels (cl 14, 17 24 and 25). All such requires funds of course! 

On another side, i'll be starting to build pointwork for the planned layout in the garage in the new year ready for the warmer weather when it can be laid. The baseboards were built last summer and i'll have a roundy with space for a station and two decent freight loading/discharge points. The plain track is sat waiting for spring in a box.. 

Cheers 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The 108 is now complete to the point where it needs painting. This will have to wait for warmer weather. I decided to try small neo-magnets for coupling between the cars. This is experimental and entirely new for me. There are two sheets of 1mm plastic between the magnet faces and this might be enough to keep the cars together. The road test this year will be interesting. I've boxed in the magnets and made a 1.5mm square rod that passes through a 2mm hole in the buffer beam. The beam has a vertical hole drilled through it (and the hole). A length of wire is then passed through the hole and the rod thus capturing the magnet coupling. The drawgear effort is spread across the entire rear of the car. The wire passes into the main rear end of the car for about 25mm so hopefully will take some decent stresses whilst being pulled. The hole in the rod the wire passes through is about 0.5mm larger than the wire. This allows easy movement in all directions to compensate for poor track riding. 

IMG_20201231_105509.jpg.005e3662ee8fad80f7225dba28406f01.jpg

When painted black under the vestibule it should be hardly noticable. 

 

 

Next project:

Another 3x TTA's from Pete at PRMRP. 

These will be added to the 3 already built as kerosene carriers:

IMG_20201006_171152.jpg.36b38f39ceb4353572fae6d397e2497c.jpg

 

These are not the easiest kit to build but look great when finished. 

Here's what comes in the package (all x3):

IMG_20201231_104807.jpg.6a588da7361d9e723d8b5b987a130661.jpg

 

I'll be adding bits etc.. to make them into the TTA type i require based on images from Paul Bartlett's site as before. 

Cheers 

 

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  • woodyfox changed the title to 3x PRMRP TTA Tanks Build
22 hours ago, 37114 said:

Interesting use of the magnets, I was amazed how strong the Neo magnets are, I used them to secure the handbrake operating linkage on my class 37.

Yes the magnets i'm using was actually one that snapped in half when sat on a steel sheet. 

 

Today's progress on the tanks is all about preparation. 

There are missing rivets on the sole bars that need adding if that's your thing. Theses are aligned to the suspension holding mounts so are fairly easy to mark and press out:

IMG_20210101_103818.jpg.2751c1db8c5f7c7591c64de52f2d23eb.jpg

The square parts either side of the W iron hold the suspension mounts. These are measured against the outer solebars that are laminated on later. 

IMG_20210101_103902.jpg.e67e218cdb5658825119118f61f8107e.jpg

Marked out for embossing. There are only 6 rivets to do. 

IMG_20210101_105520.jpg.ddc47eac09c89e7e4e71421989535ff4.jpg

Rivets added. Not perfect but will be fine under several sprays of paint.. 

 

Another preparation is the tank ends. These castings vary in quality and time spent filing, filling and smoothing now will be rewarded with a better looking wagon later:

IMG_20210101_105715.jpg.fa5484dc5f747d440e120fbfd9e15eff.jpg

The ends are best viewed from two aspects. The ends that need to be nice and smooth and the inside rim that has the tank wrapped around it. 

I've concentrated on the ends first by rough filing, sanding with 400 grit, a wipe with IPA then a smooth over with filler. 

IMG_20210101_112302.jpg.76b022b686a8648a4fcf6ae40ed858fd.jpg

These will be left for 24 hours at least before smoothing off. 

 

Cheers

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The next stage on the build is etch tidying and folding. 

The TTA's are very different on each side, therefore it's really important at this stage that the sides are clearly identified. I've laid out and marked the appropriate parts with a blue or black pen dot. 

IMG_20210102_114359.jpg.7a8b87dab6cfd051d6b33070babf4cda.jpg

 

The permanant marker pen is easily removed later with IPA. 

The etch folds are quite fine and delicate. The top of the chassis has two sections that require folding out to 135 degrees from flat to accommodate the tank. The fold needs to be really square here so the tank fits neatly and squarely in its final position. 

IMG_20210102_114421.jpg.e829cd2f6c7e6a0b48ae6bb1716aad34.jpg

 

Next job is to mark out the sole bar locations on the chassis and solder in place. 

Cheers

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Just a minor diversion from the TTA's today. I decided to have a go at making some crossing V's for the springtime track laying. These are two 8/1 V's for a curved crossover with C blades.

IMG_20210103_120649.jpg.b7ca956f9acb6a5de03ab5d3cf4ab18d.jpg

 

I've built a flat 4 foot by 2 foot board to build the turnouts on as i'll need 3 crossovers in total. 

I plan to have 8 turnouts and 1 set of catch points in total. I'm using C&L componants and their flexible track in the plain areas. 

Cheers

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  • 2 weeks later...

New toy just arrived.

IMG_20210113_135733.jpg.0b57eeaaac86728690536c55c350f823.jpg

This is the Hakko FX888D. It's a 70w, 480 deg max machine. I ordered a 3.2mm bit with it so, hopefully, it will pack a punch. Not seen these before but they are top in reviews just above the Weller equivalent which was my initial intended replacement. 

All you really want from an iron is plenty of sustained warmth at the tip so fingers crossed! 

 

 

The TTA build was put on hold due to my old soldering station developing a non-repairable fault last week. 

I should be back on with it this week. 

 

Cheers

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