Bachmann Class 20’s

[TravisM]

With Bachmann doing a new model of the Class 20/3, do you think their present offering will possibly be upgraded to the same standard at a later date?  I must admit that I do like the Class 20 that Bachmann do at the moment but apart from no lights, I really can’t see anything wrong with it.

 

I know that those with superior knowledge will point out loads of different details, but does that not apply when you apply the 3ft rule?

[w124bob]

My issues with the cl 20 are minor, bogies look a bit one dimensional, cab removal is almost impossible on 5 of the 6 I have and the disc version needs the disc thickness reducing. That's easily done with a few file strokes, same with the spigots that hold them on. The only other comment is that no two seem to run the same, a quality dcc chip helps but there does seem to inconsistency even with locos from the same production run. It is however one of Bachmanns oldest designs and apart from the change to the glazing, dropping the sliding cab windows is the only cosmetic thing they have done. Fitting better Oleo buffers lifts the model and I detail the buffers beams as well , I don't use the standard coupler, a full set of pipes really sets the loco off. I model pre TOPS so don't need working lights, the real thing were feeble anyway so I'm pretty much satisfied.

Edited September 27, 2020 by w124bob

[Roy Langridge]

On 27/09/2020 at 09:38, w124bob said:

My issues with the cl 20 are minor, bogies look a bit one dimensional, cab removal is almost impossible on 5 of the 6 I have and the disc version needs the disc thickness reducing. That's easily done with a few file strokes, same with the spigots that hold them on. The only other comment is that no two seem to run the same, a quality dcc chip helps but there does seem to inconsistency even with locos from the same production run. It is however one of Bachmanns oldest designs and apart from the change to the glazing, dropping the sliding cab windows is the only cosmetic thing they have done. Fitting better Oleo buffers lifts the model and I detail the buffers beams as well , I don't use the standard coupler, a full set of pipes really sets the loco off. I model pre TOPS so don't need working lights, the real thing were feeble anyway so I'm pretty much satisfied.

Not had a problem getting the cabs off any of mine to fit lights etc. and I have 13 of them spanning early to more recent releases. Running is pretty standard as well with me running them mostly in pairs. 
 

Either you have been unlucky or me lucky. 

 

Roy

Edited September 28, 2020 by Roy Langridge

[Iskra]

22 hours ago, Roy Langridge said:

Not had a problem getting the cabs off any of mine to fit lights etc. and I have 13 of them spanning early to more recent releases. Running is pretty standard as well with me running them mostly in pairs. 
 

Either you have been unlucky or me lucky. 

 

Roy

 

I only have 2 factory fitted DCC class 20's. Individually they run great, but as a pair things are not so good, so I rarely do it.

[Roy Langridge]

1 minute ago, Iskra said:

 

I only have 2 factory fitted DCC class 20's. Individually they run great, but as a pair things are not so good, so I rarely do it.

When you say not so good, do you mean they are not speed matched etc.?

 

Mine are fitted with LokSound V5s or DCC Concepts Zen218s, always as matched pairs.

 

Roy

[Zunnan]

I have to admit, of the 4 I have all of them are so far apart performance wise that it took a LOT of patience to speed match them for DCC. On DC, none of mine have characteristics anywhere near one another. They are so varied that instead of speed matching them to one another, I speed matched each one to the same class 37 before pairing up two of them.

 

Speed matching to a different reference worked for three of them, but the fourth is so variable in its running that you can speed match it and 30 minutes later it'll be miles out once its warmed up; unless I park it near where the radiator is overnight, in which case give it 5 mins to cool down and it'll be completely different again. Their inconsistency isn't even consistent among when they were made. My slowest runner is a newer 21pin model, as is the quicker one. The two in between are both 8 pin yet on DC even these two still lap my 6x4 test layout around 6 seconds apart at 50% power. The difference in flywheels between batches also serves to make their running characteristics really quite different. I find it better to keep the 8pins together as a pair as they are mechanically identical and use the 21 pins individually being as one of the 21 pins is a royal Jekyl and Hyde seemingly depending on the weather.

 

Dismantling them has never been an issue for me, lord knows they've been apart more times than the neighbours motorbike over the years.

[MikeParkin65]

On 29/09/2020 at 20:05, Zunnan said:

I have to admit, of the 4 I have all of them are so far apart performance wise that it took a LOT of patience to speed match them for DCC. On DC, none of mine have characteristics anywhere near one another. They are so varied that instead of speed matching them to one another, I speed matched each one to the same class 37 before pairing up two of them.

 

Speed matching to a different reference worked for three of them, but the fourth is so variable in its running that you can speed match it and 30 minutes later it'll be miles out once its warmed up; unless I park it near where the radiator is overnight, in which case give it 5 mins to cool down and it'll be completely different again. Their inconsistency isn't even consistent among when they were made. My slowest runner is a newer 21pin model, as is the quicker one. The two in between are both 8 pin yet on DC even these two still lap my 6x4 test layout around 6 seconds apart at 50% power. The difference in flywheels between batches also serves to make their running characteristics really quite different. I find it better to keep the 8pins together as a pair as they are mechanically identical and use the 21 pins individually being as one of the 21 pins is a royal Jekyl and Hyde seemingly depending on the weather.

 

Dismantling them has never been an issue for me, lord knows they've been apart more times than the neighbours motorbike over the years.

Maybe I have been lucky but I have 2x20's, one from the first batch of 8 pin and the other a later 21 pin. Both fitted with Hornby TTS and both happily run coupled together.