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Tools, Jigs, and Things...


-missy-
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9 minutes ago, Valentin said:

Julia,

 

It is not clear from your picture if there is some protection under the plastic sheet, to protect the milling bed and the milling bit. If not, is it not necessary? I always use a scrap piece of ply but I would happily not use it as it doesn't help much when I try to align the part I want to mill.

 

Valentin


You need something if you’re cutting right through. I think I can see the edge of a sacrificial piece of something at the extreme right hand edge of the picture where the step clamp is visible also. 

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1 hour ago, Valentin said:

 

It is not clear from your picture if there is some protection under the plastic sheet, to protect the milling bed and the milling bit. If not, is it not necessary? I always use a scrap piece of ply but I would happily not use it as it doesn't help much when I try to align the part I want to mill.

 

As a rule it is wise to have a sheet of something under the job.  Ply,  aluminium,  MDF, Tufnol etc.  This can be bolted or clamped to the bed without the clamps interfering with the cutting. Double sided tape is very useful for holding the sheet being cut onto this. For metal I use the Diall stuff and use a hair dryer to get it unstuck afterwards. Maybe something less grippy for plastic but I have not done much of that. 

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13 hours ago, -missy- said:

 

.... One thing I have fund is really useful when cutting thin sheet material is 3M re-positional spray mount. Its great at holding material down while cutting.

 

 

The adhesive can be easily dissolved using IPA when finished.

 

Julia :)

Good to see you posting again , Julia.  There are tips here that don't only apply to 2mm model lers. Since you stopped writing your own blog, I've often wondered what you did with Highclere.

Mike

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On 02/10/2020 at 07:34, -missy- said:

[...]

I will start off by adding this...

 

image.png.09523d1918d5431e61aeb3890a66038a.png

 

I recently ordered a countersink tool from APT tools which was added onto an existing order. I have always struggled to de-burr really small holes as most countersinks cannot cut small holes. This countersink looks like it will cut right down to the point. Available in 90 deg and more traditional 60 deg angles.

 

[...]

 

This is an amazing tool - I didn't even know such things exist, soooo much better than an oversized drill bit. I purchased one, not from APT but from Drill Service (Horley) and I tested it on some scrap brass and P/B. I kept using it as it was so satisfying to see how well the BA12 bolts "sunk" into the holes :)

 

And there is a countersink tool on each end of the rod!

 

Thanks again, Julia, for bringing this tool to my attention!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 06/10/2020 at 11:53, -missy- said:

 

Fit that and you will never be constrained to using 1/8" shank dia tools anymore! It makes the machine seriously more flexible when it comes to what and how you cut things.

 

https://www.usovo.de/en/c/cnc-technology/proxxon-mf70-accessories?language=en

 

J.

Julia, will this spindle mod take 0.5mm HSS drill bits with the same size shank?

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14 minutes ago, Valentin said:

Julia, will this spindle mod take 0.5mm HSS drill bits with the same size shank?

 

Hi Valentin.

 

The spindle mod upgrades the milling machine to accept ER11 collets. It will therefore give you the ability to take a wider range of tools.

 

image.png.edb2305e0c8f576c44d190c92b75a1ca.png

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collets/ER11-Collets/ER11-Collets---Metric

 

Plenty of suppliers of ER11 collets as they are pretty standard, ranging from cheap Chinese to high quality precision manufactured types.

 

Julia.

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  • 1 month later...
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That looks great Julia. Do I take it the automated part is the relational rotation of both shafts and tooth cut depth and feed rate are manual? Brilliant whatever, more power to your elbow.....

 

Bob

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On 19/10/2020 at 18:44, -missy- said:

.... The parts were printed on a FDM machine. It makes producing parts for these mods so easy!

 

I don't follow this thread regularly - all this mechanical 'know-how' is a bit lost on me - but I was interested to see that you use a 3D printer for making some parts.

 

I find 3D printing enables me to build models I couldn't have dreamt of before.  Now, I have started using the printer to make detailed overlays, over brass components.   This approach means that I still have the pleasure of creating robust and well-weighted models.  I call it my 'hybrid' construction method.

 

Happy New Year :)

 

Mike

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16 hours ago, Izzy said:

That looks great Julia. Do I take it the automated part is the relational rotation of both shafts and tooth cut depth and feed rate are manual? Brilliant whatever, more power to your elbow.....

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob.

 

Yes, you are absolutely correct. I didn't want to overcomplicate it by automating anything else other than the rotation. Its not that hard to set the depth etc.

 

13 hours ago, MikeOxon said:

Now, I have started using the printer to make detailed overlays, over brass components.   This approach means that I still have the pleasure of creating robust and well-weighted models.  I call it my 'hybrid' construction method.

Mike

 

Hi Mike.

 

I am a firm believer in what you say there. Its all about using the right manufacturing method to get the right results. There are far too many people out there who rely on one thing like 3DP to make as much as possible when a different method would produce far better results.

 

Julia :)

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  • 4 months later...
On 07/10/2020 at 14:15, richbrummitt said:

I found that despite the serial number on my MF70 machine I required the earlier Usovo ‘tuning spindle’ than the splined one. It would be worthwhile finding out (by opening up the head of the mill) what you need before ordering. 
 

[...]

 

I am determined to get ER11 collets for my Proxxon MF70. First step is to get one of the tunning spindles from USOVO. As the serial number on my machine is well above 22852, I was literally "one click away" from ordering the "Tuning spindle for Proxxon MF70 (with a serial number > = 22852)" when I remembered this post.

 

Below are some pictures of the spindle in my milling machine. I can't see a simple way to remove the bearings in the body. The mod is not cheap at €109 + P&P's. Am I safe in assuming the spindle advertised by USOVO for my serial number will fit the machine?

IMG_20210509_125351.jpg

IMG_20210509_125714.jpg

IMG_20210509_125727.jpg

IMG_20210509_125442.jpg

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6 hours ago, Valentin said:

 

I am determined to get ER11 collets for my Proxxon MF70. First step is to get one of the tunning spindles from USOVO. As the serial number on my machine is well above 22852, I was literally "one click away" from ordering the "Tuning spindle for Proxxon MF70 (with a serial number > = 22852)" when I remembered this post.

 

Below are some pictures of the spindle in my milling machine. I can't see a simple way to remove the bearings in the body. The mod is not cheap at €109 + P&P's. Am I safe in assuming the spindle advertised by USOVO for my serial number will fit the machine?

IMG_20210509_125351.jpg

IMG_20210509_125714.jpg

IMG_20210509_125727.jpg

IMG_20210509_125442.jpg


I believe so. You’ll need the one for higher serial numbers (more expensive one). The earlier machines did not have the black splined part at the top like yours has, hence the difference. 
 

My usovo spindle was supplied with replacement bearings. However, the size was a match for what was in, so if you cannot get them out I would assume it will still fit. You will also need to find spanners to fit but these are a normal metric size - 17 or 19mm (can’t recall). 
 

I think you already realised that you need to buy any collets you want separately. I bought the few I knew I would use at a substantial saving compared to a set. 

Edited by richbrummitt
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9 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

 

[...]

 

I think you already realised that you need to buy any collets you want separately. I bought the few I knew I would use at a substantial saving compared to a set. 

 

I knew the collets are not part of the USOVO sale. The plan is to get them from this trader.

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Hi.

 

From my experience, the bearings are a light press fit into the cast housing. I ended up finding a length of brass rod that fitted through the centre of the bearing and lightly tapping them out from the opposite side through the second bearing.

 

Julia :)

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11 minutes ago, Valentin said:

Are the bearings supplied with the new spindle a better quality than the existing ones? Is it worth replacing them?

 

Hi Valentin.

 

I don't know. I replaced them with some branded bearings (SKF). They are a standard size.

 

Julia.

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The first thing I noticed after filling in the delivery address was a reduction in price, from €108.99 to €91.59, most likely the German VAT. I shall see how this 'translates' at the Post Office.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 08/10/2020 at 07:36, -missy- said:

image.png.672954f1ad9f7138b2a729004e310365.png

 

 

 

Hi Julia,

 

Are those two brass components in your picture the 6mm OD x 1mm pitch 'trapezoidal thread' anti-backlash nuts sourced from China you mentioned in a previous post?

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Regarding the milling cutters I understand that the 'uncoated' ones are for machining non-ferrous materials. There are mainly two types: HSS and solid carbide, the latter being approx. twice the price. Apart from having a longer life, are there any other advantages of a carbide cutter, when used to mill small brass rods and bars?

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22 hours ago, Valentin said:

Regarding the milling cutters I understand that the 'uncoated' ones are for machining non-ferrous materials. There are mainly two types: HSS and solid carbide, the latter being approx. twice the price. Apart from having a longer life, are there any other advantages of a carbide cutter, when used to mill small brass rods and bars?

 

Carbide needs a rigid machine and high speeds to deliver its benefits. The MF70 is hardly the most rigid thing in the world but I think that up to 3mm it handles carbide OK. If you plan to put bigger cutters in your ER11 spindle then you need to reassess the question. Sorry I don't have any simple answers.

 

For my lathe I am now using HSS cutters (6mm and 10mm) and they work very well. I did manage to snap a tooth off a carbide cutter in the lathe when it dug into the work. I've also snapped a 3mm carbide cutter in the MF70 - I think it was too much vibration and an overhanging workpiece that caused it.

 

I tend to keep my cuts light but I gather there is another issue called 'rubbing' that relates to running milling cutters without enough cutting demand on them.

 

Fun isn't it?

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On 10/05/2021 at 11:56, Nimbus said:

 

I'd be interested to know whether any post-Brexit import gotchas arise, as this is a mod I'm interested in too.

 

The Nim.

 

I can't believe something good came out of Brexit! This is a first for me. No import duty fees, nor Post Office charges! Exactly two weeks after placing my order with USOVO, the postman dropped the parcel on my doorstep. Is it luck, or will this be the norm for imports from EU?

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6 minutes ago, Valentin said:

 

Is it luck, or will this be the norm for imports from EU?

It is short term expediency which seems to work both ways at the moment (although the sender still has the chore of completing a customs declaration). We have been told here in Belgium that the "full-monty" of charges will be applied from 1 July, but I think that in the UK the implementation date may have been put back (three further months?). If you order from an approved importer (eg Amazon or Aliexpress), my understanding is that they will add the required charges to your original bill and you should get an undelayed delivery.

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