Tools, Jigs, and Things...

[Valentin]

I have removed the old shaft - 60 in the picture below - from the milling machine, but the "bushing" (or "distance piece" as it is named in the Usovo instructions) - 104 in the picture below - remained captive between the two bearings - 103 in picture below. I would leave them as they are and insert the new tuning spindle but, as you can see, one of the bearings is already fitted to the new shaft and I am worried I may break something.

 

How shall I remove the old bearings and the spacer from the milling machine's body?

 

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Valentin

[Nigelcliffe]

5 hours ago, Valentin said:

 

I can't believe something good came out of Brexit! This is a first for me. No import duty fees, nor Post Office charges! Exactly two weeks after placing my order with USOVO, the postman dropped the parcel on my doorstep. Is it luck, or will this be the norm for imports from EU?

 

Sounds like luck, or tax error by the seller.  

For lower priced items (£135), the seller should collect the VAT for the UK authorities and pass it over.   For higher price, its the person importing it.   

 

 

 

[-missy-]

6 minutes ago, Valentin said:

How shall I remove the old bearings and the spacer from the milling machine's body?

 

Hi Valentin.

 

They should tap out. Use a length of brass rod to reach the bearing and then tap gently with a hammer.

 

Julia.

[Crosland]

Application of duty and VAT on postal imports, where it isn't collected by the seller, has always been a bit hit and miss. I suspect the extra volumes to be processed after Brexit means it will move more towards "miss"

 

[Valentin]

4 hours ago, -missy- said:

 

Hi Valentin.

 

They should tap out. Use a length of brass rod to reach the bearing and then tap gently with a hammer.

 

Julia.

 

Thanks, Julia, it was easy to remove the bearings.

 

It seems I need to purchase a pair of 17mm spanners to tight the collet. I tried by hand but I couldn't get the nut nowhere near enough to even slightly grip a 1.5mm drill bit in the 1-1.5 ER11 collet. Is this expected?

[D869]

1 hour ago, Valentin said:

 

Thanks, Julia, it was easy to remove the bearings.

 

It seems I need to purchase a pair of 17mm spanners to tight the collet. I tried by hand but I couldn't get the nut nowhere near enough to even slightly grip a 1.5mm drill bit in the 1-1.5 ER11 collet. Is this expected?

 

Are you using the collet and nut correctly? - you need to clip the collet into the nut before putting the nut onto the collet holder. ER collets have a groove that engages with the nut. It doesn't work if you put the collet into the holder and then put the nut on.

 

My collets (ER16, not ER11) are stamped with a decreasing range, e.g. 7-6mm . The nominal size (the one you choose when ordering) is the higher number. When inserting drills etc that match the nominal size they are a close fit and sometimes won't go in unless I first unscrew the nut a bit to release the collet properly. You should be able to tighten the nut by hand and get a noticeable grip... but don't try to cut metal like that - tighten it properly.

 

Going all the way to the lower end of the range will need more effort (and probably a spanner) and is not the best way to use collets anyway.

 

[Valentin]

15 hours ago, D869 said:

 

Are you using the collet and nut correctly? - you need to clip the collet into the nut before putting the nut onto the collet holder. ER collets have a groove that engages with the nut. It doesn't work if you put the collet into the holder and then put the nut on.

 

[...]

Yes, I did it as explained in the instructions:

 

How you should use ER Collets

Inspecting the inside of our ER collet nuts reveals an internal flange that has been machined eccentric to the main axis of the nut. This is not a machining error but is designed that way to lock onto the groove of the collet and aid its release from the chuck body.

For this feature to work properly, the collet must be mounted in the nut first before fitting the assembly into the chuck body. To mount the collet in the nut, insert it on an angle, turn slightly and push it into the nut until it clicks into place on the eccentric flange. The cutter may now be fitted and the assembly tightened hard into the chuck body.

To remove the cutter, slacken and undo the nut until resistance is felt. Then, using a collet wrench, further undo the nut until the collet is released from the chuck body. Removal of the collet from the nut is the reverse of the mounting procedure.

 

Could be a compatibility issue? ER11 mod from Isovo is not compatible with the ER11 collets from ArcEuroTrade?

[Valentin]

False alarm!

 

Apparently, not having Weetabix for breakfast does negatively impacts one's strength.

[Izzy]

I have an ER16 collet chuck on my smaller lathe and although you can tighten up by hand to a certain extent whatever the diameter of the work relative to the collet size they really need to be fully tightened with a spanner etc. This is especially so if they are used to hold cutting tools such as slot drills. end mills etc which are not locked into the tool as with end mill collet chucks, (many cutters have a thread on the shank to match a similar one in the collet and are self-tightning to prevent them just spinning around if the end cap isn't fully tightened). This is of course mainly on 1/4" shank and above cutters.

[Valentin]

On 08/10/2020 at 07:36, -missy- said:

 

Hi Rich.

 

The original uses plain bushes (blue) and some steel profiled plates (red) on the ends,

 

 

I replaced these with some profiled Brass plates with a way of mounting some thrust bearings (2 on each axis).

 

 

As for the area where the leadscrew nuts live, I basically chopped out the mounts for the nuts and replaced them with some brackets made from Aluminium allowing for some adjustment to make sure there was plenty of opportunities to make sure things aligned well.

 

 

It seems to work well.

 

Julia.

Hi Julia,

 

Any chance to get these pictures back? I would like to convert my MF70 to CNC, but I must first reduce the backlash as much as possible - any other information related to the specs of the nuts will be greatly appreciated.