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North End Road - WCML in N


DavidMcKenzie
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Pleased to see your making progress, the initial photos look good - and don't be too hard on your woodworking skills, your scenic and railway modelling make up for anything you feel you might not have right ... although to me, it looks good, its functional and it works!

 

That last picture, really gives an idea of where your going and it really will look good I think!  What are you using as a (temporary?) stand/base for the baseboard?

 

Rich

PS - Different to what we were messaging about the other day, but I have started a new thread (see signature) for my so-called 'quick' US-based layout!  Not replacing the UK plans, just something to keep me occupied!

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2 hours ago, njee20 said:

I was a huge fan of Maid’s Morton, so looking forward to this. I’m 99% set on code 40 (with copperclad turnouts) next time out, definitely worth getting some to appraise!

Yes, I'd agree with both comments! 

 

Having been practice building some 2mm Finescale pointwork this summer, ready for the main UK-based layout to start (hopefully next year) the visual difference with Code 40 is definitely worth it.  I'm using standard Peco on my small American project that is now underway, but primarily to use it up so its not wasted!  But I certainly wouldn't use it on the British model again, it would constantly nag away at me that it doesn't look right!

 

Rich

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On 11/10/2020 at 21:39, njee20 said:

I was a huge fan of Maid’s Morton, so looking forward to this. I’m 99% set on code 40 (with copperclad turnouts) next time out, definitely worth getting some to appraise!

Thanks for the kind comments about Maid's Morton, it was painful having to break it up. But at least I've got the next project underway now. I've taken the plunge and code 40 is ordered for the layout. Will post progress once it's arrived. 

 

All the best

Dave

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On 11/10/2020 at 20:40, MarshLane said:

Pleased to see your making progress, the initial photos look good - and don't be too hard on your woodworking skills, your scenic and railway modelling make up for anything you feel you might not have right ... although to me, it looks good, its functional and it works!

 

That last picture, really gives an idea of where your going and it really will look good I think!  What are you using as a (temporary?) stand/base for the baseboard?

 

Rich

PS - Different to what we were messaging about the other day, but I have started a new thread (see signature) for my so-called 'quick' US-based layout!  Not replacing the UK plans, just something to keep me occupied!

It is a temporary solution and it won't work once wiring and points motors are in, but for now it's sitting on a fold up camping table. Allows it be stored on a shelf above the bed and I just get it down when I am working on it (or later playing :)). I think I need to add some collapsible legs that are fitted to the bottom of the baseboard when I find time. 

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I've made a little more progress, I have mocked up some tunnel walls to get a feeling for spacing and heights etc. 

 

IMG_20201020_163350.jpg.bec17aee8a8858e00d3df2c038463598.jpg

 

A shelf also went in to give something for buildings and greenery to sit on at the raised layer at the back to give some 3D and depth to the model. 

 

IMG_20201020_163402.jpg.d8b9554d361f2fad0946564f608a7310.jpg

 

The positives from the mock ups that are likely to stay are the height of the raised area and the layout and the angle/position of the tunnel, tracks and walls.

 

The bits that will change are the type of tunnel mouth, the circular mouths look more realistic, I think at least, (see below for a mock up sitting in the wrong place) and the colour of the walls. The red brick just stands out too much and looking at photos from a lot of the WCML (especially around north london) the brick work is much darker. A darker and less red background will also distract less from the trains and one of the things that worked well on the last layout was the 'less is more approach' and letting the trains take center stage.

 

IMG_20201020_163416.jpg.fec54e4212bc575a8cb52118ef760156.jpg

 

Final picture is from flickr and a reference for both the colour and type of tunnel mouth. I am not sure I will achieve that view exactly and I am not modeling a real spot, but I like the feeling of this photo, not over crowded or complex and the train is taking center stage. 

 

 

90020 KNL 0800 MAN-EUS 11-1-90

 

 All the best,

Dave 

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23 hours ago, DavidMcKenzie said:

I've made a little more progress, I have mocked up some tunnel walls to get a feeling for spacing and heights etc. 

 

 

 

A shelf also went in to give something for buildings and greenery to sit on at the raised layer at the back to give some 3D and depth to the model. 

 

 

 

The positives from the mock ups that are likely to stay are the height of the raised area and the layout and the angle/position of the tunnel, tracks and walls.

 

The bits that will change are the type of tunnel mouth, the circular mouths look more realistic, I think at least, (see below for a mock up sitting in the wrong place) and the colour of the walls. The red brick just stands out too much and looking at photos from a lot of the WCML (especially around north london) the brick work is much darker. A darker and less red background will also distract less from the trains and one of the things that worked well on the last layout was the 'less is more approach' and letting the trains take center stage.

 

 

 

Final picture is from flickr and a reference for both the colour and type of tunnel mouth. I am not sure I will achieve that view exactly and I am not modeling a real spot, but I like the feeling of this photo, not over crowded or complex and the train is taking center stage. 

 

 

 

 

 All the best,

Dave 

 

Looks nice, but as a fellow WCML modeller, I am biased!

I agree about the brickwork. I assumed that engineer's blue brick was widely used around there. When until I studied them more closely from my own photographs of Primrose Hill tunnels, I found that the brickwork looks like a mixture of different types (some yellow brick) blended in with years of dirt.

Talking of Primrose Hill tunnels, you can have the artwork for mine on South Hampstead if you want. These are taller & slimmer than any model ones I have seen for sale. They were traced into Illustrator from photos, so the dimensions are as close as I can get them.

I am happy to laser cut them (if my cutter still works - I've not used it for over 6 months :blink:), but this would be in 2mm acrylic because I have a cheap cutter & that's what it works best with. The brick courses would also have too much relief for 2mm scale.

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On 21/10/2020 at 16:26, Pete the Elaner said:

 

Looks nice, but as a fellow WCML modeller, I am biased!

I agree about the brickwork. I assumed that engineer's blue brick was widely used around there. When until I studied them more closely from my own photographs of Primrose Hill tunnels, I found that the brickwork looks like a mixture of different types (some yellow brick) blended in with years of dirt.

Talking of Primrose Hill tunnels, you can have the artwork for mine on South Hampstead if you want. These are taller & slimmer than any model ones I have seen for sale. They were traced into Illustrator from photos, so the dimensions are as close as I can get them.

I am happy to laser cut them (if my cutter still works - I've not used it for over 6 months :blink:), but this would be in 2mm acrylic because I have a cheap cutter & that's what it works best with. The brick courses would also have too much relief for 2mm scale.

It is terribly kind of you to offer the art work, but I am trying to avoid modelling a specific location because of the limited space I've got. The board is 1.6 meters long, but by the time the backscene is in there is less than 1.5 meters of space. Even in n gauge a real location in 1.5 meters doesn't leave a lot of railway, especially when I'd really like the challenge of including a station. 

 

I have been enjoying following your progress with South Hampsted. It's a great spot for a layout. 

 

All the best,

Dave

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A mock up of the tunnel mouths with darker bricks looks a lot better. It needs tidying up a bit, but I think it looks a lot better than the red brick. 

 

The first bit of code 40 track is made, it does look better than the code 55 (both shown together below). I don't know if it is an absolute must for a good layout, I am sure in a lot of case code 55 would look just fine. But with a small layout like this it's the kind of thing I am enjoying trying. I have not finished the points yet, but I think the difference there might be bigger. 

 

IMG_20201023_182225.jpg.0239ebf9c2ad6428eb4627db40b53cbe.jpg

 

Luckily the IPL cricket is on at the moment, it's good to have something to listen to whilst detailing all of these sleepers :).  

 

IMG_20201023_092928.jpg.7e37607d2b9d7a73a28f58e44e0329d5.jpg

IMG_20201023_092941.jpg.e5a96209bee47fa10018afffcfdac910.jpg

 

All the best,

Dave

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The thing for me with code 40 isn’t so much the sleeper spacing or the reduced rail height (although both are brought into stark relief by your comparison picture!) but as you say on turnouts being able to have long, flowing formations. 

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I managed to catch the virus that's going around so it's been slow progress over the last week or two. But the flexitrack sections are now complete and have some base colour ready for further detailing later. 

 

The sections of track got laid in roughly the right place just to double check my calculation of required lengths was ok. 

 

IMG_20201106_094053.jpg.67191bf60530b51f4cdae9adf6dd6603.jpg

 

The next job will be to get the points built. I am looking forward to this after reading the above comments, but i have the feeling my soldering skills might get put to the test after reading the instructions :)

 

I also need to check if pecos fishplates will work to join the sections of track or if I will need to find another solution there. 

 

All the best,

Dave

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18 minutes ago, njee20 said:

Conventionally one doesn’t use any joiners at all, pretty sure the Peco ones won’t fit. You can stagger the rail joints to keep everything aligned.

 

That's a great tip, thanks a lot. Makes a lot of sense as well now you say it, do you know how the rails would be joined electrically? Does each section have it's own feed? Or is a little join made? 

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Hi Dave,

Sorry to hear you've caught this awful thing. Hope your improving and doing ok? Take care of yourself and the family.  Agree with Duncan on the electrics.  I usually do two or three feeds from the bus bar to each rail - that way if any come unsoldered anytime after you've painted the track, it should causes limited (if any) problems.

 

Rich

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Don't worry about your soldering. I am sure you wouldn't be thinking about building points if you were not up for the challenge.

 

The only problem will be when you look at code 55 or N gauge pointwork, your attention will be drawn to how far the check rails are from the running rails.

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On 06/11/2020 at 08:53, DavidMcKenzie said:

I managed to catch the virus that's going around so it's been slow progress over the last week or two. But the flexitrack sections are now complete and have some base colour ready for further detailing later. 

 

The sections of track got laid in roughly the right place just to double check my calculation of required lengths was ok. 

 

IMG_20201106_094053.jpg.67191bf60530b51f4cdae9adf6dd6603.jpg

 

The next job will be to get the points built. I am looking forward to this after reading the above comments, but i have the feeling my soldering skills might get put to the test after reading the instructions :)

 

I also need to check if pecos fishplates will work to join the sections of track or if I will need to find another solution there. 

 

All the best,

Dave


The soldering with regards the Finetrax turnouts isn’t too involved. The first part is to do with strengthening the switch rails before filing down and so doesn’t need to be too elegant (although youre soldering will get prettier with practice). The challenge with the switch rails is ensuring you have a nice smooth point without filing too far through the rail.

 

the other soldering part is securing the inner part of the switch blade to the plate which then attaches to the slide bar. Again, the finishing filing is more critical. 
 

After I did one it all became clear. I’d say patience whilst filing is the absolute key. 
 

The other thing I do with the turnout kits is dab a bit of paint on each sleeper of the baseplate which corresponds with the colour of the appropriate chairs in the instructions, if that makes sense. I.e. the sleepers that require a red chair are dabbed with a red spot of paint. It means you don’t need to keep referring to the instructions when attaching the chairs. 

EDIT: image attached. You can’t see the yellow dabs very well but they are there...

image.jpeg.4473b4ea0c1783724081ad0e7ea466b3.jpeg

 

best

 

Scott. 

Edited by scottystitch
Addition of picture.
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On 20/10/2020 at 15:50, DavidMcKenzie said:

Very curious to know what ideas you are having Graham, something interesting no doubt. I hope you are keeping well. 

 

All the best,

Dave


hi Dave, 

 

 for once I’m going simple, After seeing your track i think I’m going to give code 40 a go, looked on the fine scale site and absolutely love the large radius points, Two track main line with a goods loop I think. 

Graham. 

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