About to assemble my first Parkside kit... any advice appreciated!

[alexl102]

I’ve decided I finally need to get onto painting and assembling a couple of  Parkside kits I’ve had laying around for a while. 
One is a box wagon onto which I’d like to put the logo of a business my grandfather used to own, the other is a PMV that I've modified to represent an industrial coach similar to those on the Middleton Railway so it will be painted maroon using Halfords plastic primer and car spray paint. 
 

Whilst these kits are probably very basic for the serious modeller, it’s a first foray into kit building for me and I would like to do a few afterwards. However, I am quite nervous about assembling them as I feel like it’s probably quite easy to mess up and end up with a body that isn’t straight or a mis-aligned chassis that won’t run smoothly.

 

I would be really grateful for any tips you have for a first-timer, including: 

- what order to assemble the kit in

- how to ensure that everything is straight and properly aligned

- the best type of Liquid plastic cement to use 

- how to hold parts in position whilst the adhesive sets

 

And any other wisdom you may have gained! Thanks so much in advance.

[Pete the Elaner]

Parkside kits go together well & for this reason, I believe they are a good introduction to kit-building. Enjoy building it.

I've always followed the assembly instructions. I prefer to use plastic weld because it holds the parts together well & goes off very quickly.

[jcm@gwr]

I would agree with Pete, follow the instructions, also use a liquid solvent weld,

Humbrol Liquid Poly works, and is easily available, but I would use a smaller

brush for precision work.

 

Also, I would advise using something flat to assemble it on, plate glass (old shelf)

worktop off-cut, etc, much easier to maintain a flat chassis. 

[ikcdab]

Hi Alex, if you are going to start kit building, this is a very good place to begin. The Parkside kits are very good.

For assembly order, follow the instructions.

Clean up any flash with a fine needle file and dry fit all parts first.

The most critical thing is getting the chassis true so that all 4 wheels are on the ground at the same time.  Definitely use a bit of glass as a surface for this.  I just use an empty picture frame.

I think it's best to glue one chassis side first and let it set completely. Then add the second side. You have to make sure the wheels stay free and also all in contact with the ground. I would dry fit it all first, fitting the bearings with liquid poly. You might have to push the bearings quite deep into the axlebox to keep the wheels free. Once happy, fix the second chassis side with minimal solvent and stand right way up on the glass with a light weight on the vehicle floor to keep it true. Once set, you can reinforce the bond with a bit more solvent. If you find the chassis isn't true during dry assemble, a bit of filing along the top edge of the chassis member can help.

If you can get the chassis true, then the rest of the body is easy.

As for solvent, mekpak is the best, otherwise known as butanone. Apply it with a thin paintbrush and capillary action will draw it into the joint.

Generally the solvent sets really quickly and finger pressure for a few moments is all you need. Do however avoid getting solvent on your fingers otherwise you'll get fingerprints on the plastic.

Be a little careful with car spray paint as it can be a little thick. Hobbhh spray paint is finer if you can get it in the right colours. 

Plastic wagon kits are addictive!

Ian

[Free At Last]

I had trouble inserting the wheel bearings, when I finally did they were skew-whiff. Put me off doing another one, but I would like to.

[Paul Cram]

I was never able to build rigid chassis square enogh to get good running which is why all my stock is compensated/sprung.

[ikcdab]

1 hour ago, Free At Last said:

I had trouble inserting the wheel bearings, when I finally did they were skew-whiff. Put me off doing another one, but I would like to.

I clean out the hole with a 2mm drill done very very gently in a pin vice. Then add a few drops of solvent into the hole. Leave for a few seconds to soften the plastic, then gently push the bearings in. They need to go fairly deep.

[ikcdab]

1 hour ago, Paul Cram said:

I was never able to build rigid chassis square enogh to get good running which is why all my stock is compensated/sprung.

Haha. I was always told that compensation is not a solution to an out of true chassis!

[Paul Cram]

4 minutes ago, ikcdab said:

Haha. I was always told that compensation is not a solution to an out of true chassis!

The body and floor are square and therefore the w irons are. The difficult bit of getting the W irons all perfectly square and inline is removed.

It doesn;t have to be very far out for it to fall off when rigid.

Edited October 4, 2020 by Paul Cram

[Enterprisingwestern]

 

Searching "Parkside" on the forum will save us going repetitively going over old ground.

 

Mike.

[griffgriff]

1 hour ago, ikcdab said:

Haha. I was always told that compensation is not a solution to an out of true chassis!

Trouble is.... you build a plastic chassis Square and the next time you look at it there’s a good chance it isn’t
 

Griff

[ikcdab]

4 minutes ago, griffgriff said:

Trouble is.... you build a plastic chassis Square and the next time you look at it there’s a good chance it isn’t
 

Griff

Ah well, that's why I described above the system I use. It will only warp of there is too much solvent all at once.

Ian

[John Tomlinson]

I'd agree with much of the above.

 

If you can find a piece of flat glass to work on, so much the better. Better still, if you have some graph paper put a sheet under the glass so that you can line things up to be parallel / square as required.

 

Re.wheel bearings, these can be an issue as for optimal running there needs to be a little, but not too much slop in the axles being able to move from side to side. Moreover, the plastic can move a bit over a day or two as the plastic solvent glue evaporates and cures. So much so that free running wheels on assembly may not be quite so free a few days later! Geoff Kent pointed out in one of his legendary wagon building books, that you don't actually need to glue the bearings in, wagons run quite happily in this condition, surprising as it may seem. I've followed this advice for years, and with close on a hundred vehicles from various manufacturers under my belt it does work. Not glueing the bearings in does allow you to get the bearing out and drill the hole a bit deeper if needed, should the solebars mysteriously decide to get closer as the glue cures. Oh, and working in OO using Peco code 75 track I've never used compensation, although I'm sure it can work well in the hands of a skilled practitioner.

 

John.

[Siberian Snooper]

10 hours ago, Free At Last said:

I had trouble inserting the wheel bearings, when I finally did they were skew-whiff. Put me off doing another one, but I would like to.

 

I put a drop of solvent in the hole and then push the bearing in with an old ball point pen. Only problem I have encountered on the very odd occasion is the hole is slack and the bearing drops out,  the cure which works for me is to shave a bit of plastic from a sprue and with more solvent in the hole add the shaving of sprue to the hole and then press the bearing home. Fit the axles and make sure that the wheels are all on the glass plate and the chassis doesn't rock, you don't get a 2nd chance once the solvent has set.