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Building A Modular Branch Line - 00 Gauge


That Model Railway Guy
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Hi everyone!

 

Having spent a bit of time last year putting together my little shunting layout Pickwick Yard, I thought it was time to have a go at something more ambitious. The intention with Pickwick Yard was always to have a small basic layout that would give me somewhere to run trains while I was working on a much larger layout. Having spent plenty of time procrastinating, last weekend I finally decided to just start and now that I’ve made a bit of progress I felt justified in posting about it here. So here goes... :D

 

Unfortunately I don’t have space for a large permanent layout so I’m going down the modular route. Aside from the obvious advantage of being able to put the layout away when the room is needed, it also means I can work on one section at a time in a much smaller space without needing the whole layout setup.

 

Another reason for having a modular railway is so I can set the layout up in a variety of different configurations. This all started because I wasn’t sure whether I wanted an end to end layout or a loop. Originally I had planned to model a branch line terminus but then realised that sometimes I do just like to let the trains run. With a modular layout I can have both depending on what mood I’m in! My aim is to make all the modules interchangeable so that they can be setup in lots of different ways and also means that future expansions should be easy too. (But keep that to yourselves for the moment! ;))

 

As for the actual layout itself, I’m planning to model a small heritage railway. “Oh no!” I can already hear you groaning, but don’t leave just yet! While I imagine there will be plenty of Rule 1 running sessions along the way I do want to try and do this somewhat realistically, so for the most part I’ll be running small industrial tank locos with short rake of Mk1 coaches. The heritage railway itself will be completely fictional but I’ll be taking plenty of inspiration from the various preserved railways I’ve visited over the years as I don't want this to end up looking like a train set!

 

I’ve come up with a rough plan of what I’m hoping to achieve laid out in the images below. Although, when I say it’s a rough plan I mean very rough!

 

Firstly, Stage One includes building the Fiddle Yard, two corner modules and a buffer module. As this is my first proper model railway these boards are fairly simple. With the fiddle yard I can get use to laying track properly and with the buffer and two corner boards I’ll be able to try my hand at some basic scenery. I imagine I’ll learn a lot here with the hope that my skill and technique will improve a lot as I go on.

 

1383248909_ScreenShot2020-10-10at19_12_13.png.bec89df560eca0af2b708dffed2fd030.png

 

Stage Two is to build a double board featuring a station and loco depot of some sort. The track plan is nowhere near finalised on this yet so what you see below is just a rough representation but I’ll be giving it some more serious thought in the near future. By moving the buffer module to the end it effectively becomes the headshunt for the run round loop. This will give me a nice end to end layout to run trains on while I’m working on…

 

1203069574_ScreenShot2020-10-10at19_12_38.png.34e8388ccfbf0bf0ef7217805d4cd982.png

 

Stage Three, where I’ll replace the buffer module for another two corner boards that complete the circuit to join up to the fiddle yard. This now means that the layout can be run either as an end to end layout or in tail chaser mode.

 

999066380_ScreenShot2020-10-10at19_13_26.png.cec418edd4a81242c75485bb59c37c7e.png

 

Stage Four. This is a long way off but it would be nice to eventually have two short scenic boards between the curves at each end to lengthen the run a bit. It would also open up the operating space in the middle and would mean that the layout fitted nicely around the edge of the room it’ll probably be setup in most of the time.

 

612249875_ScreenShot2020-10-10at19_13_53.png.57b6cefec59b477d687420932a6b41d3.png

 

Stage Five and beyond. We’re getting into the realms of fantasy here but in the future there’s no reason why I couldn’t add more modules… perhaps another station or maybe a completely separate self contained layout built to the same standards so that it could join up to this railway in the future.

 

Of course this just demonstrates the most typical way the layout could be setup but since it’s all modular it could be setup in a multitude of ways! Work has already begun on Stage One so hopefully it won’t be too long before I have something to show you. :) 

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I hope that works out for you, great way of easing into the layout! Great way of having terminus and through running.

 

 

The only thing I would consider doing differently is maybe simplifying the 1st version of the fiddle yard to just a couple of points on a tiny board or even just one point so two sidings for the terminus and 1 siding and a through track on the loop.

 

You might find you might need something different when you get the full layout built (e.g. length of sidings, number of trains stored, etc etc) so if you build the station part before the full fiddle yard you'll have a better idea. Or you might even decide a second station in place of the fiddle yard would give you more operational scope.

 

And if you want to have a quick running session with a couple of trains you wouldn't need to bother putting up the large fiddle yard.

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Have you given any thought as to how you will be supporting the baseboards?

 

Modular layouts often feature common size baseboards for storage and transportation, this may not be something you need to consider but weight may be something you do want to minimise so I would recommend open top construction with max 4' length, preferably 3'.

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16 hours ago, StuartMc said:

I hope that works out for you, great way of easing into the layout! Great way of having terminus and through running.

 

 

The only thing I would consider doing differently is maybe simplifying the 1st version of the fiddle yard to just a couple of points on a tiny board or even just one point so two sidings for the terminus and 1 siding and a through track on the loop.

 

You might find you might need something different when you get the full layout built (e.g. length of sidings, number of trains stored, etc etc) so if you build the station part before the full fiddle yard you'll have a better idea. Or you might even decide a second station in place of the fiddle yard would give you more operational scope.

 

And if you want to have a quick running session with a couple of trains you wouldn't need to bother putting up the large fiddle yard.

 

Thanks, I’m definitely hoping to learn a lot as I go and expand my abilities.

 

I did think about starting off with a smaller much more simple fiddle yard initially. In the end though I decided I wanted to build a standard size module first mainly so I could give it a go and sort out any potential problems with the “standard” before getting too far into the project.

 

I guess I’m treating the fiddle yard modules as a dry run for the rest of the layout to see what I’m capable of and to find out if my plan actually works! At the moment everything is just a theory so if I can iron out most of the problems on the fiddle yard boards now, where in the worst case I can always tear everything up and start again, that to me feels more safe than building half the layout and then finding out that there’s a fatal problem that need to be worked around. Essentially I’m hoping I’ll make all the mistakes now so I can learn from them for future modules where it won’t be as easy to correct them!

 

A few extra notes on the fiddle yard:

-I have a load of setrack points lying around that I didn’t want to use on the scenic section so I’ve put them to use here instead.

-One of the few things I know about the station is that I want to run 4 coach trains so the loops in the fiddle yard are enough to accommodate this and a loco - plus a bit extra for safety.

-Also the fiddle yard is actually two boards that will fold in the middle which will be handy for storage and also setup.

 

I do agree though that in the future a smaller fiddle yard board will be useful for quick running sessions so it’s definitely something I’ve thought about. The existing fiddle yard boards could well be reworked to be more scenic modules once I’ve built the rest of the layout too.

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14 hours ago, Jeff Smith said:

Have you given any thought as to how you will be supporting the baseboards?

 

Modular layouts often feature common size baseboards for storage and transportation, this may not be something you need to consider but weight may be something you do want to minimise so I would recommend open top construction with max 4' length, preferably 3'.

 

My current layout is supported on these trestles from Homebase at the moment which seem to be very good so I’ll probably go with these again. They’re pretty study and being mass produced they’re much more consistent than anything I could build - though I may look into attaching adjustable feet to them if I have any trouble with wonky floors!

 

I’ve started building the first of the modules and I can lift it easily with one hand (not that I’ll be doing that when I’ve laid track on it!). But yes, the plan is to keep the boards as light as possible so that they’re easy to move around - although most of the time I’ll have someone else to help me out.

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Well the first steps have been taken this weekend. I’ve been busy making the baseboards for the fiddle yard using 9mm ply and 25mm timber for the frame (cross bracing was added after I took the first photo). I'm pretty happy for my first attempt!

 

1486245199_ScreenShot2020-10-11at17_40_31.png.2043fc0d4ac619b6225c6e563742943f.png

 

Hinges were also added so that the two boards can fold up for storage and thankfully it’s not much trouble for one person to move. It should be even easier once I’ve added support blocks to the ends and a lock to stop the boards from unfolding.

 

For the moment I’ve laid out the track I have just to see the space I’m working with. As helpful as track planning software and templates are, I get a much better feel for the space available once I have a physical thing in front of me like this.

 

1647592827_ScreenShot2020-10-11at17_40_59.png.a79bca91467452947a03ae000db2a6e3.png

 

703764315_ScreenShot2020-10-11at17_40_47.png.b5f42a9cd88b50f9a90c80e049bcaa7b.png

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My immediate thought and suggestion would be to attach at least 4" ( preferably 6" ) sides and ends below track level.  6mm (1/4" ) would be sufficient, screwed and glued and with corners joined with 25mm square the same as you used already.  This will add real stiffness to the length and width and won't add much weight.  You could also add full depth pieces onto the cross braces with cut outs for wiring.

 

This would give plenty of room for point motors etc.  On the scenic boards you can profile the sides and ends for above track-level scenery.

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I’ve done this in 009 using a standard based on the HO Freemo created by the RSTower group. The standard is pretty basic and I’ve used laser cut ends I drew up purely as a dimensioned drawing bought in batches of 24 from Grainge & Hodder.


RS Tower Freemo standard

 

My 009 version, Freem009

 

My Nm version

 

and recently a HOm version using the Freem009 ends.

 

The boards can be whatever length and shape you like but it’s easier to store and transport them if they pack in pairs. 

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11 hours ago, PaulRhB said:

I’ve done this in 009 using a standard based on the HO Freemo created by the RSTower group. The standard is pretty basic and I’ve used laser cut ends I drew up purely as a dimensioned drawing bought in batches of 24 from Grainge & Hodder.


RS Tower Freemo standard

 

My 009 version, Freem009

 

My Nm version

 

and recently a HOm version using the Freem009 ends.

 

The boards can be whatever length and shape you like but it’s easier to store and transport them if they pack in pairs. 

 

Brilliant stuff! I’ve just had a great time reading through your threads - especially the 009 one, that’s given me some thoughts for the future! Superb modelling all round.

 

Funnily enough I’ve gone down the route of getting laser cut endplates too which should arrive in a few days. I was a bit unsure of how well they would work in practice but seeing the success you’ve had with them I’m feeling much more confident now.

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The first batch of laser cut endplates have arrived! I’ll be using these on the end of each module to align the track and bolts when the boards are connected together. It’ll also give the scenery a consistent level at the end of each module too without it looking too uniform (hopefully) as I didn’t want the land to be completely flat at every baseboard join.

 

The bottom one is the standard endplate which will be used on almost every board. It’s also symmetrical so a module can be setup either way round depending on my preference.

 

The middle one is for the fiddle yard. The holes for the bolts and dowels are exactly the same but there was no need for the scenery profile here especially as, when the fiddle yard folds, the peaks would have hit each other, so I kept them flat for simplicity.

 

Finally the top one is an extension for the corner boards so that the scenery still lines up on these wider modules when two are connected together.

 

1724894734_ScreenShot2020-10-16at19_46_27.png.9887f3ce0261365be7edb68db1b6f45f.png

 

Obviously I had more than these made, these are just the three different types. ;) 

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I made quite a lot of progress over the weekend with the track having now been laid for the fiddle yard. It was pretty straight forward although it was my first time using flexible track so I had a bit of an adventure cutting that until I got more confident.

 

467991366_ScreenShot2020-10-19at15_17_30.png.bfd71ba7b972337691ba47d90f1249b1.png

 

Where the baseboards fold I laid the track over the join with each rail soldered to a brass screw underneath. Then once everything was secure I took the plunge and cut all the rails. I’ve done some temporary wiring for the moment to allow locos to cross the gap on each line just for testing but I’ll do something more permanent once I know exactly how I want to wire it up (especially as there’s a possibility I might convert to DCC soon). So far everything’s working great and the Hornby Peckett and Terrier aren’t having any trouble at all.

 

1248469606_ScreenShot2020-10-19at15_17_58.png.2ff6b36ca4c75e08d6241bbc9bcd85e9.png

 

The great thing about starting in the fiddle yard is I can make mistakes here and if in the future I decide it’s not working well, I can easily rip it up or relay it without having to worry about any scenery. I forgot to take any pictures but I’ve also made the square baseboards for the first two corner modules too, so I’ll be laying track on those soon and trying out my endplates for the first time as well.

 

Finally, as if that wasn’t enough for one weekend I also managed to make it down to Spa Valley Railway for a quick ride behind their new resident! :) 

 

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1924454461_ScreenShot2020-10-19at19_31_28.png.85dc63d022a0ab5cd20dd912dfb7d0d6.png

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Hi, I just spotted this article/thread/blog.  I'll follow your build with interest. 

My limited layout is modular, but in my case it rests on a window sill.  From my own experience, I'd mention two things that immediately sprang to mind when reading your entries...

 

1. Are you using the homebase pasting table type things?  I've used those in the past and they seemed a bit flimsy.  If you are using those, it might be worth thinking about bracing the actual tables.  The layout modules might be heavy, and the tables may sag or collapse.  

 

2. How are you joining the track?  are you relying on good clips to line it up, or using fishplates/track clips?  If you are doing a circuit which relies on track clips/fishplates, you need to give some thought about how to release the modules/track from each other when you pack it away, and how to put it back together again.  Mine relies on the fishplates, but because as its a 3-sided thing, I haven't had to worry about the full circle.  Even then, I had to allow a method of of permitting some wriggle room to tease the modules apart from each other.  I now have a sequence that it needs to be dismantled in, and the backboards in one corner are removable first, which gives 9mm free space, which is enough to prize apart the first corner module. The other lengths along the long run can then be slid apart.  I have the modules on lengths of leftover lino from  a bathroom floor job some time back.  These slide with the modules, making the task a bit easier. 

 

Just food for thought, it might save you some grief in the future.   Good luck with the layout! 

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Hi Moon Monkey! Thanks, it’s always nice to hear from others who are working on something similar. Do you have a thread of you own?

 

12 hours ago, MoonMonkey said:

1. Are you using the homebase pasting table type things?  I've used those in the past and they seemed a bit flimsy.  If you are using those, it might be worth thinking about bracing the actual tables.  The layout modules might be heavy, and the tables may sag or collapse.  

 

I’m not using the pasting tables from Homebase, I agree they probably would be quite flimsy. I’m using their wooden trestles which support my previous layout and have so far been quite sturdy. I posted a link to them a few posts ago so if you click that you can see pictures of them but they’re basically A-frames that fold up flat when not in use. Very simple design but cheaper, stronger and more accurate than anything I could build myself.

 

 

12 hours ago, MoonMonkey said:

2. How are you joining the track?  are you relying on good clips to line it up, or using fishplates/track clips?  If you are doing a circuit which relies on track clips/fishplates, you need to give some thought about how to release the modules/track from each other when you pack it away, and how to put it back together again.  Mine relies on the fishplates, but because as its a 3-sided thing, I haven't had to worry about the full circle.  Even then, I had to allow a method of of permitting some wriggle room to tease the modules apart from each other.  I now have a sequence that it needs to be dismantled in, and the backboards in one corner are removable first, which gives 9mm free space, which is enough to prize apart the first corner module. The other lengths along the long run can then be slid apart.  I have the modules on lengths of leftover lino from  a bathroom floor job some time back.  These slide with the modules, making the task a bit easier. 

 

Just food for thought, it might save you some grief in the future.   Good luck with the layout! 

 

I won’t actually be joining the track between modules at all. The baseboards will have alignment dowels built into them along with my endplates so that the track (and scenery) all line up perfectly when bolted together regardless of which combination of modules are setup. But the actual rails themselves won’t have any fishplates so there will just be a tiny gap between each section of track. If my work on the fiddle yard over the weekend is anything to judge by this gap is only a millimetre or two wide, if that, and doesn’t seem to affect locos or rolling stock at all (apart from creating that nice clickety-clack sound!) The main issue as far as I can see will be making sure the rails are always at a standard height across every board so that they don’t “jump” when travelling from one to the other.

 

For packing away - it’ll be a while before I reach a full circle but my initial thought was to unbolt two of the corner modules as one section and slide that out since the railway won’t completely fill the room it’ll be setup in. Once they’re out of the way they can be separated from each other and the rest of the modules can easily be packed up one by one. Sounds more complicated than it is when written down like that but it makes sense in my head. :D 

 

Thanks for the advice and for taking an interest, it’s all very much appreciated. For the most part I decided to just jump in and start building something otherwise I’d never make any progress, so I’m always interested to hear the solutions that others have come up with so that I can implement (steal) them myself along the way! :) 

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Fair enough, I can see why you’d not want to have to worry about baseboard alignment - it can be a bit of a faff. For me I knew I wanted to scenery to match up at the joins no matter which order the boards were setup in, so from there it wasn’t much extra work to make sure the tracks aligned too.

 

As this is my first proper layout I’m treating the whole thing as a learning curve for the future. The nice thing with the modular design is that, as I get better modules can be reworked or replaced entirely as long as they’re all built to the same standards, which is why I’ve spent the time trying to get that bit right from the start. :) 

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Lots more progress has been made throughout the week. The endplates have now been attached to the end of the baseboards along with some bullet dowels and I was ecstatic to find that everything lines up perfectly! It’ll certainly make the job of connecting up baseboards easier in the future.

 

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As I mentioned previously I’ve built the baseboards for two of the corner modules and you can see the first of them here attached to the far end of the fiddle yard...

 

534302712_ScreenShot2020-10-25at12_31_59.png.baa0ebadfd9b502cc41b59e2251c8ea1.png

 

I was on a bit of a roll and so I've also managed to lay the cork and track for the curves on both boards as well as getting everything wired up. Once again I was rather excited when everything worked and a loco was able to travel from one board to the other without any trouble at all.

 

682119726_ScreenShot2020-10-25at12_31_21.png.453fc4b39bab255e37067b1d223d0e7f.png

 

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1046908723_ScreenShot2020-10-24at22_34_06.png.209502f390c2aeaca1d62ef463a83b1c.png

 

My plan is to start work on the scenery for these two corner modules in the near future. As happy as I am that everything works I’ve had enough of building baseboards and wiring for the moment so I’m looking forward to attempting some hills.

 

The first board I do will be kept as simple as possible. No real features, just some hilly terrain covered in static grass as I don’t want every module to feel like it has something crammed onto it - less is more. It’s also a chance to get the basics down of forming hills, using static grass, ballasting, etc. The second board will be similar but as it links up to the fiddle yard I’m planning on having a bridge to hide the scenic break. Maybe a road over the top and I’d like to have a small barn or workshop area if there’s space too.

 

That said, life is about to get very busy for me so I can’t imagine I’ll be making progress on this at the same rate as I have recently. Ideally I’d like to get “Phase One” finished by the end of the year, but that may be a bit ambitious.

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In addition to posting about my modelling adventures on RMWeb I'll also be documenting the build over on YouTube - I'm much better at video editing than I am at writing these posts! :D

 

If anyone's interested here's the first "episode". It mostly covers everything I've talked about so far on here but also includes a few shots of my Peckett running over the 4 modules I've built so far!

 

 

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Good news, I’ve made a start on the scenery! There’s not much to see yet and progress has been slow but it’s definitely a start. I’m tackling the simpler module first as this won’t have much on it other than a few rolling hills.

 

I started off trying to build up the landform with polystyrene blocks and bunched up newspaper but I didn’t really have much success with that as the surface was far to crinkled. I put down a layer of plaster bandage but ended up having to use a lot of modelling compound to smooth out some of the worst parts. I was already planning on using it to build up the areas around the endplates but ideally I’d like to keep it to a minimum as it does add extra weight and these modules are already the biggest and most cumbersome.

 

1313205162_ScreenShot2020-10-30at13_22_47.png.0b96630811a7a1d4699215cd560a1044.png

 

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I was trying to come up with a more effective technique for the larger areas when I discovered that we had some offcuts of chicken wire going spare. I have no idea why we have it but it wasn’t needed anymore so I cut a few strips to use for the other side of the board which was then covered in a layer of paper mache. This was a much quicker solution and I’m letting it dry today before I add plaster bandage over the top.

 

1284849131_ScreenShot2020-10-30at13_23_04.png.056a82464cee8987dd4fbc009201749f.png

 

514431992_ScreenShot2020-10-30at13_23_13.png.4d1ebbd3423d0a38b689a08a9a918e40.png

 

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I’ve been thinking a bit more about the track plan for the two station modules as this main area of the layout is still largely undecided. In my head this station is the preservation society’s main base on the railway so there’s a lot going on. Ideally I’d like to have:

 

-A double platform, with length for 3 coach trains (4 at a push).

-An engine shed/maintenance area.

-A few spare sidings for shunting and (like all good heritage railways) storing rusty locos/wagons.

 

So with all that in mind I set about designing something and have come up with this…

 

1416944956_ScreenShot2020-10-31at19_35_05.png.e25453f451ebf949546f215da6d0b040.png

 

It’s got the double platform, an engine shed area in the top left and a couple of sidings coming off platform 2 just below it. Looking at it now I’ve realised it’s a bit of a simplified hybrid of both Oakworth and Embsay stations, albeit flipped the other way round. I’d always imagined it with the platforms on the right and the engine shed on the left but maybe it would be more realistic if it was flipped to be the same way as the prototypes.

 

180600244_ScreenShot2020-10-31at19_35.05(flipped).png.63837dde408ba8f92d820fec7bbcec04.png

 

Anyway what does everyone think about this design (either original or flipped)? I’m happy to hear suggestions - although no guarantees I’ll take them! :D Personally I like this plan as it has everything I wanted and looks like it has some nice operating potential without feeling too crowded… although I do worry that the sidings might block the view of the main line too much.

 

But to be honest this is the best I’ve come up with so far so I’m inclined to stick with it unless I come up with something better soon. With the station area being the main focal point of the layout I want to make sure I'm happy with it before I start building.

 

(Still need to come up with a name for it too!)

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Tidy.  The only thing that jumps out at me is that to use the loco headshunt, the loco has to back into the shed...

 

...  maybe a three-way point entering the shed would work to your advantage?

 

You might also use another off the end of your platform to the sidings - gets then a little more length.

 

Gimme a few minutes, I'll do an Anyrail image...

 

image.png.71ba54d80c9883671d13b13ecde06d00.png

 

I've used Code 75 Streamline and I've foreshortened your platforms to just get it down, but you get the idea.  The 3-way at the platform doesn't look as 'good value' as the one entering the shed as it affects your platform length...  also bear in mind if you're using code 100, the 3-way is symmetrical so it would look different again.

 

I look forward to seeing others' thoughts on this, but I think what you put down was already a neat little station.  :)

 

Edited by FoxUnpopuli
Tidy up.
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2 hours ago, FoxUnpopuli said:

Tidy.  The only thing that jumps out at me is that to use the loco headshunt, the loco has to back into the shed...

 

...  maybe a three-way point entering the shed would work to your advantage?

 

You might also use another off the end of your platform to the sidings - gets then a little more length.

 

Gimme a few minutes, I'll do an Anyrail image...

 

image.png.71ba54d80c9883671d13b13ecde06d00.png

 

I've used Code 75 Streamline and I've foreshortened your platforms to just get it down, but you get the idea.  The 3-way at the platform doesn't look as 'good value' as the one entering the shed as it affects your platform length...  also bear in mind if you're using code 100, the 3-way is symmetrical so it would look different again.

 

I look forward to seeing others' thoughts on this, but I think what you put down was already a neat little station.  :)

 

 

Ah fantastic! I do see what you mean about the loco headshunt - I think that's the way it is at Embsay but obviously it's much more spread out in reality. I’m not usually a fan of three way points but I actually quite like what you’ve done with them there. I am using code 100 so it would be the symmetrical points but I’ll definitely take your ideas into consideration.

 

Thanks for this, very much appreciated. :) 

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With regard to forming the contours of your scenery, have you considered the use of cork sheet? It needs no support except at the edges, and can form smooth, flowing landscapes, and is much lighter than mod-roc, plaster or other such materials. If you cover it with newspaper and PVA glue it forms a rigid robust surface, much like your chicken wire.

 

Here's an example from one of my Ladmanlow modules:

 

ladmanlow1012.jpg.fe5a85744270a17f30f1d94b26c1be7a.jpg

 

 

ladmanlow1032.jpg.50a490e8580d287bb9b5370da1b0ce94.jpg

 

 

ladmanlow1230.jpg.fdaf457ad9ad2992edfa7545d70856d3.jpg

 

Al.

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23 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

With regard to forming the contours of your scenery, have you considered the use of cork sheet? It needs no support except at the edges, and can form smooth, flowing landscapes, and is much lighter than mod-roc, plaster or other such materials. If you cover it with newspaper and PVA glue it forms a rigid robust surface, much like your chicken wire.

 

Here's an example from one of my Ladmanlow modules:

 

ladmanlow1012.jpg.fe5a85744270a17f30f1d94b26c1be7a.jpg

 

 

ladmanlow1032.jpg.50a490e8580d287bb9b5370da1b0ce94.jpg

 

 

ladmanlow1230.jpg.fdaf457ad9ad2992edfa7545d70856d3.jpg

 

Al.

 

Genius!! Thanks for sharing that, I'll definitely be giving this a go on future modules!

 

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