Basic Track Laying

[Riccarton Junction]

Only have a small OO layout (6x2) so don't have miles of track - this first layout is really just an introduction to the hobby i.e. getting to know how things work (modelling, DCC/DC, scenery, track etc etc). However, I am now at the point where I have the track where I want it so it now needs to be locked into position. In doing so I have three "must have" criteria:

 

1. Track doesn't move

2. Track is ballasted

3. Track is reusable  

 

I'm not bothering with any sort of underlay on this layout - track is just going to be attached directly to the board (I like the noise!). So my question is how to go about securing the track. Is it best to pin and then ballast OR does the ballasting process itself fix the track? Either way the track must be reusable for future projects.

 

Cheers,

 

PaulC.

[smokebox]

A full can of worms is now open.

[Pete the Elaner]

What type of track are you using? Pins looks awful on concrete sleeper track. Even when I tried to paint them they looked very visible. I switched from pinning track to gluing it for this reason.

I have never tried to hold down track by gluing the ballast. I glue the track to the baseboard (or cork layer), but some glues are stronger then others. I like Copydex for this because it brushes on, holds the track down & doesn't complain too much if you want to pull the track up again.

 

But as Smokebox inferred, you could get 10 different answers on this, none of which are wrong.

[Riccarton Junction]

Just basic Hornby track. Would like as few moving parts as possible for now i.e. fix it in position and then ballast. Was probably thinking it's glue v pins for the fixing - not fussed, as long as the track is reusable for future layouts.

[ISW]

11 minutes ago, Riccarton Junction said:

So my question is how to go about securing the track.

Paul,

 

This being my first, and last, layout, I went with the tried and trusted method of neat PVA to glue the track down. I use a toothbrush to spread it around to the full width of the sleepers. Initially I used weights to hold the track in position, but this cause me 2 problems. The weights kept the PVA fumes near the track and this tarnished the rails. Yes, it can be cleaned off but it's a bit of a nuisance. Secondly, the track would sometimes move while placing the weights and I couldn't see or notice it. Now I hold the track in place with 'map pins' hammered into the baseboard at ~3" intervals. This means I can check and recheck the alignment as the glue sets and, of course, I don't get any tarnishing.

 

The PVA does a good job of holding the alignment, but can quite easily be 'peeled' off the baseboard without any problem. The remains of the dried glue on the track can be removed with a toothbrush and/or warm water. Any remains of the PVA on the baseboard I usually remove with IPA and a cloth.

 

I find that the PVA has enough 'stiction' to initially hold the track, but easily allows adjustment / alignment before the map pins are finally hammer in. I check my alignment using a 1m steel ruler (for straights) and my box of clear plastic 'railway curves' for all curved tracks.

 

There are plenty of photos of my methods on my RMWeb layout page - link below. Hope this helps.

 

Ian

[Ray Von]

I've just embarked on my first Copydex ballasted layout and I'm very impressed with it, allows for alterations and although I've not had to lift any track, I can see it being a darn sight easier than if PVA were used.  My track is flexible and pinned, but I have left one straight section unpinned just to see what happens...

[Riccarton Junction]

2 minutes ago, Ray Von said:

I've just embarked on my first Copydex ballasted layout 

What are the basic steps here?

[Riccarton Junction]

10 minutes ago, ISW said:

This being my first, and last, layout

 

Spectacular effort for a first layout!

[Ray Von]

6 minutes ago, Riccarton Junction said:

What are the basic steps here?

[The Johnster]

First, seal the top of the baseboard against water; 50/50 pva/water will be fine or you could use a sealing paint a suitable mucky background colour. 
 

My method is to spend some time with the sections loose on top of the board; don’t actually connect any together yet, I’ll explain in a minute.  When you are happy with the way the track plan ‘sits’ on the board, connect the pieces smoothly and in line with  each other and level, and leave them connected.  You want to re-use them and the connectors are a weak point which become weaker the more times you dis- and re-connect them (for this reason never buy 2h track). Pin the track down lightly, leaving about a mm of the pin showing above the sleeper, and using Hornby power connecting clips because you want to re-use the track and din’t want lumps of solder all over the place, do the wiring and test run, firstly with a loco that is a known runner (brand new locos out of the box are not known runners) and them with all of the stock.  It is a good idea to acquire a back to back gauge and set all of your wheelsets to it.  
 

When you have established reliable running, pva the track directly to the baseboard, diluting the glue by about 50%, and when it has gone off, remove the pins, which are not needed until the next layout.  Leave gaps in the glue near the moving parts of turnouts.   Test run again; you may have to scrape glue off the rail head surfaces.  
 

Now paint the rails track colour.  Slap it on then wipe the rail heads clean, but again, leave gaps clear on the sides where electrical contact is made between blades and stock rails on turnouts.  Test thoroughly again. 
 

Now you can ballast.  I spoon it on loose, ‘form’ the shoulders with a piece of stiff card cut to the profile (you can make yourself a range of these) I want to spread the ballast along the track.  Then use the dilute pva in a spray bottle with washing up liquid to set it. Cover the moving parts of turnouts, and when it’s gone off, remove the surplus with a small vacuum cleaner.  Now, go around the ballasted area with a stiff bristle paint brush, pound shop kiddies one with plastic bristles are perfect, and clean out any ballast that has got where you didn’t want it getting, flangeways and between turnout blades and closure rails.  You may have to scrape glue off the rail heads again. 

Test run again and you’re good to go!  When you come to lifting the track for re-use, pour hot water over it (which is why you sealed the baseboard first, remember) and after a few minutes the pva will have softened enough to prise the track away from the board.  I have an old 1” chisel that is good for this. Be gentle, work whatever you are using as a priser beneath the sleeper base and lever upwards. Keep an eye on the connectors at the end of the piece, and if the paint is preventing them from separating cleanly regard the two sections as a single piece.  If things are getting sticky again, pour more hot water on them; the water will not damage the track, but any under-track point motors must be removed first.  Try not to pull the rail out of the plastic chairs and always apply upward pressure gently from beneath the track.  
 

It’s a messy job, and you’ll end up with sections with ballast still clinging to them that will have to be cleaned individually before re-use.  Don’t skimp on this job or ballast will get beneath the sleeper web and the re-used track won’t sit flat on the baseboard.  Like the real railway spent ballast can be recycled for sidings and yards.  Be strict about replacing and disposing of any damaged connectors or sections, especially turnouts.  
 

If any water got into the baseboard, you’re about to be very glad you didn’t use chipboard or MDF; a ply surface should be fine if it is dried out promptly.  

[ISW]

4 hours ago, Riccarton Junction said:

 

Spectacular effort for a first layout!

Paul,

 

Thanks for the compliment. I spent my working life building 1:1 scale railways, so i had a bit of 'previous' as they say in cops / robbers movies.

 

Ian