Help required returning Thomas to look something like an E2 with extended tanks.

[73c]

Hi all.

I'm hoping for my first loco bash to try and return Thomas the Tank, back into something like it's original form. I'm not looking for full on perfection, this being my first attempt at something like this and hoping you guys out there can advise.

My plan is :-

Remove face and find a replacement smoke box door. Any suggestions ?

Remove the wheel splashers and in fill with Plasticard or similar.

Remove lining, boiler bands and the number. T-cut?

Reduce the height of the bunker guard.

Blank off the extra cab side window and try to add a curved insert to eliminate the right angles. ( maybe, might to tricky to get the right shape )

Add a Westinghouse pump, the correct looking safety valves and a set of steps towards the front. Which supplier?

Clean and wash body before a coat of primer, then paint black with BR early emblem and numbers.

 

Must admit, sounds easy when you type it out but as a beginner I'd appreciate your input and tips. Fully aware the model isn't perfect to start with but thought if I don't give this a go, I may never try.

Thanks in advance.

Phil

Edited November 23, 2020 by 73c

[cypherman]

Hi 73c,

That was on my project list to do. So I will be very interested in how yours turns out. Perhaps the smokebox door from this might work .

Hornby R353 LBSC 0-6-0

[73c]

Hi cypherman

I'd thought about one of those but not sure if they just 'pop out' and no cheap ones around at the moment. 

Plus it has the right looking safety valves.

[sandwich station]

I believe that that is the loco that Hornby turned into Thomas.

[cypherman]

HI 73c,

Yes I believe that the smokebox door does just pop out on this loco. I have seen several sold for spares with the door missing.

[33C]

I use the smoke box door from the Hornby class D 0-4-0T . They are both 19mm and pop straight in with a little bit of filing on the rear lip plus , they are plentiful. (Peters spares, part no. L6996).

[73c]

Smoke box door ordered. Trying to locate other 2 parts. Using a Hornby Jinty chassis dcc fitted, will save having to try and paint the wheels black.

[OFFTHE RAILS]

What's an E2X? 

The loco looks vaguely like an ex-LBSCR E2 class 0-6-0T.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

This is what it is supposed to look like in real life. Plus a thread about the engine

https://real-life-ttte.fandom.com/wiki/Billinton_E2

I think the hardest part of making this engine into the one you want will be taking off the front splashers, filler caps and making some steps. I think the loco crew for this model must have been blessed with the ability to levitate into the engines cab. Also needs a new chimney.

To be honest it would be easier to convert the Hornby E2 by extending the water tanks.

Sorry could not find any pictures of the back of the loco. Not a clue what the 2 big spikes sticking up on the front of the engine are for. Any one got any ideas ?.

Edited October 29, 2020 by cypherman

[plasticbasher]

Those spikes are lamp irons I think.

 

I agree with Cypherman; it strikes me as easier to convert the Hornby "short water tank" LBSCR E2 into the "long water tank" version the LBSCR E2.

 

To convert a Thomas would involve undoing the changes Hornby made to turn the E2 into the Thomas toy: the cab sides, the bunker, removing front splasher, adding front steps and probably still needing to rework the extended water tanks as they are not entirely prototypical.  But then the entire E2 model won't satisfy ardent rivet counters..!!

 

Hornby Thomas's are a potentially good source of a very sweet mechanism though and the bodies seem to fetch a good 10-20 on eBay if in sound condition.

 

There was a 2 part article in Airfix Model Trains magazine in about 1980 where they really went to town detailing a Hornby E2 and converting it to the long water tank version.

 

 

Edited October 29, 2020 by plasticbasher

[Justang]

I think the spikes on the front are for the route indicator discs. Considering that the Hornby E2s have not been manufactured for a long time, perhaps converting Thomas' would be a more sustainable way of making extended water tank E2s.

Edited October 29, 2020 by Justang

[cypherman]

Hi Justang,

You are right, The Hornby model is quite difficult to find a decent working one. I am currently watching an E2 and a Thomas for sale on Ebay. May take a punt on them for a future project.

[73c]

Thanks cypherman for the photo's, have seen some but not all, really useful.

I'm just having a go at some basic, easy'ish changes and something to give me a bit more confidence in having a go at later on if I feel good with the results from this.

I got my Thomas for free, so not worried about buggering it up if worse comes to worse. Basically a learning curve for me, only 'bashed' kit buildings to date.

Took this on, knowing full well that the model was really not quite like the real thing.

This is all good info from you guys and much appreciated.

I noticed the 'bottle' shaped things on top of the tanks as well and wondered what they might be.

The bit of kit in front of the tank on engine 105 ( wagon behind 2129 ) would that of had something to do with it being push pull fitted?

@plasticbasher fitted a new motor to both the Thomas and jinty chassis I'm using, £2.99 each from Hornby spares, so if body doesn't work out I'll have a nice chassis to sell!

To date, smoke box door on way, ordered a replacement set of safety valves ( Ramsbottom type ) and found a potential westinghouse pump that may be correct.

Thanks again.

[cypherman]

Hi 73c,

The two bottle shaped things on the top of the tanks are the air vents for the water tanks. This stops any sort of vacuum starting. Yes that part of the push pull. As for the Westinghouse pump, Search Ebay for this.

OO, Westinghouse pump (cab mounted)

[C.A.T.Ford]

The piece of kit in front of the tank on engine 105 is a feed water pump many Brighton engines were so fitted. A lost wax casting for one is available from Branchlines.

 

CAT

[cypherman]

Hi C.A.T.

Was that used for heating the carriages ?.

[C.A.T.Ford]

13 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi C.A.T.

Was that used for heating the carriages ?.

The Brighton was almost paranoid about burning too much coal. Not surprising as they paid more for their coal than almost all other companies. This led to all sorts of heat recovery systems most of which led to heating the feed water in tanks and tenders, Normal injectors will not work with hot water so Brighton locos were often fitted with a feed water pump to get hot water into the boiler. E2s were so fitted and when they passed you and the pump was working there would be a distinct "clonk" with each stroke of the pump. Combined with the song of the Westinghouse pump on the other side a Brighton loco could be quite "musical".

Hope this explains everything if not come back.

 

CAT

 

[73c]

Thanks cypherman. Duly ordered. Some useful information there, C.A.T

[Alex TM]

Hi everyone,

 

I've got one of the Hornby green Southern liveried ones that I hope to bash into something more like an E2, though in BR livery.  Although I will be leaving it as a short tank version (numbers 32100-32104) I'll be watching this thread for ideas and advice.

 

Good luck with this.

 

Regards,

 

Alex.

[Steamport Southport]

The original Hornby E2 was a decent model albeit placed on the generic chassis. The body was reasonably accurate in all the main dimensions. Pity the tooling was altered for TTTE.

 

However if you can find a spare body or non working one, the Hornby 0-6-0 chassis used on locomotives such as the GWR 2721, LMS Jinty, GNR J52, inside frame Class 08 , etc are a direct fit. Although the chassis wheelbase is wrong.

 

I've got an original LBSC Umber one. Nope, I'm afraid nobody's having it. One of the few models with sentimental value. 

 

If I wanted a proper one, I'd be looking at the South Eastern Finecast  version.

 

There was also a detailing kit by Crownline with the tank extensions, but they're rare.

 

Take it you've found Muz's blog? If not, worth a look.

 

https://grahammuz.com/2020/10/17/workbench-witterings-9-refreshing-the-e2-no-mention-of-thomas-dam/

 

 

 

Jason

Edited October 30, 2020 by Steamport Southport

[73c]

Back again, sorry for such a delay in an update. That life thing gets in the way of modelling.

Removing the boiler lining and tank number and lining.

Cut his smug mug off the front, ready for fitting smokebox door.

Cut the guard down on the top of the bunker.

Cut out the splashers. The small white bit of Plasticard, on the cab roof, is one of the infills. Going to order some Milliput superfine white for making good where needed. It's getting there and not as bad as I first thought.

I've got the Westinghouse pump, safety valve cover/valves, smokebox door, handrail & knobs, a new chimney coming and a pack of vacuum pipes ( needs new one on rear ) just need to find another pair of steps to add towards the front.

Here's some photo's.

[cypherman]

Hi 73c,

You can knock up a set of steps from plasticard quite easily. The cab steps on this prairie were made from plasticard. The cab steps for both these engines are made from plasticard.

[Hal Nail]

A little attention with a file or the edge of a blade dragged vertically will make a difference: removing the mould lines on the top of the smoke box but also thinning the inside top of those moulded cab doors so they appear more like sheets.

 

Same with the coal rails and possibly the rainstrips on the cab roof - thinning any visible edges in plastic or white metal can really improve a body.

Edited November 24, 2020 by Hal Nail

[73c]

The moulding mark on the smokebox will be dealt with when changing the chimney, the 2 tiny circles on the cab roof along with any other bits I'll attack as I go along. Not bad for just a couple of hours last night tho'

Kind of tempted to remove the cab doors as it might make placing of a crew easier and show some of the boiler back head.

Any suggestion's on glue, have a feeling this plastic body melts if using some types.

[cypherman]

Hi 73c,

As long as the bits are not going to get much pressure on them you could try PVA. If not the back to the standby superglue.