Middlesea John Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 I did this exercise a few years ago and now have 32104 and 32105 - one of each type. Sorry no photos as I don't have access to the models during lockdown. I seem to remember, though, using an E2 body but with bits - like the tank extensions - from Thomas rather than using Thomas with other bits if that makes sense. That way you're starting from nearer to where you want to finish up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted November 26, 2020 Author Share Posted November 26, 2020 I'd thought about going that route but as the engine was free, if I made a dogs dinner of it, it wouldn't have cost anything. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted November 27, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 27, 2020 Re glue, two part epoxy is a bit messy and a faff but is very strong and durable. It is especially suitable where the two surfaces arent completely smooth and perfectly aligned, eg for fixing two cut parts together. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbasher Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 On 24/11/2020 at 11:33, 73c said: Any suggestion's on glue, have a feeling this plastic body melts if using some types. If you're sticking plastic to the Thomas / E2 body, I think any plastic solvent or polystyrene cement sold for model making (ie. Revell, Humbrol, MekPak, PlasticWeld etc) will be just fine for any loco bodies made by Hornby since the start of the 1970's. That's been my experience anyway. Yes they will melt the plastic, but that's exactly how they create a strong bond...they literally fuse the two parts together. Just go carefully and only get glue where you need it. There are some YouTube short films made (I think) by Airfix or Revell as an introduction to making plastic kits and if you watch how the parts are glued together (with polystyrene cement) that is an excellent example of how to do it without slathering glue all over the place..! Superglue or epoxy resin as others have suggested would certainly be good choices if adding parts made of metal. I'm interested to see how you address the coal rails and the cab side sheets too. Although I already have a number of variously battered E2 bodies and the later (China made) chassis to power them (when I finally get around to that project). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted November 28, 2020 Author Share Posted November 28, 2020 Hi plasticbasher. So far the suggestion of using pva glue on some parts ( the in fill's where the splashers were ) has worked quite well. The space left will be filled in with some Milliput and hopefully leave a smooth surface. I'm picking up some super glue gel sometime tomorrow, I find the other type a bit too watery, so hoping to fit the safety valves and chimney using that. The coal rails, I've just cut 2 rails off the top leaving 3 below. Might try and add a very thin strip of plasticard on the top of that to keep the flared look. Stuck on what to do on the cab sides. I know there shouldn't be that extra side opening and the tops are curved and the yellow painted frames are raised. Not sure how far to go into detailing with this project being my first attempt. Having looked at photo's and seen the rivets on the tank's, I think my head would explode at that point! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbasher Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 I reckon it might be easiest to take the cab off the body. Like the boiler top/cab front, it unclips, but is quite tricky to remove (on the original Hornby E2s anyway). Then you could: Cut out the Thomas upper cab sides and replace with a more prototypical E2 shaped cab side. Open out the closed cab doors Replace those not particularly convincing moulded cab-side handrails with wire Paint the cab interior and glaze the front windows (I've not thought this through too carefully as the entire body of a Thomas will need a repaint...actually having the shell reduced to it's component parts might help painting) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
73c Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 I had made an attempt at taking it apart at the beginning but all that happened was one of the fixing lugs broke off. Yes, most of these alterations would be nice but at the risk of me knackering the body I'll probably just do a few mods instead. If I file the window frames flat and file the top section up towards the roof, making it slightly thinner, I could then possibly plant a pre-cut/shaped piece on the cab side. Thus blocking out the extra window and this will have the curves needed. Glazed windows, maybe. All this is meant to be, for me anyway, is a learning, practice and confidence building project. I do appreciate the help, advise and suggestions given, I'd never have thought of giving this a go without the support this site and members offer. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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