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CRT Kits BR Dia 358 6 Wheel Brake


brossard
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I've had this kit on my "to do" shelf for quite a while.  I'm in the mood for a kit build so here we go.

 

I made a start today and it mostly went in a straightforward way.  Here's where I got:

 

 

P1010059.JPG.33cd83e1a62a8c12924000b482229f16.JPG

 

The only issue I had was that the door hinges took an age to do.  Partly my fault as they should have been installed before joining sides and ends together.   Half etched brass strips but nowhere near the right width so I had to spend a lot of time fettling.

 

If anyone can provide info on the underframe layout, that would be grand.  The kit design uses a Cleminson arrangement but I'm not keen on that.  I have some works drawings of LMS 6 wheeled underframes so if all else fails I will go with that.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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I remember seeing one of these in parcels traffic at York station, 1975. They didn’t last much longer, last 6 wheeled stock used by BR.

 

Dava

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John

 

I inherited this from a good friend who bought it second hand for £12 as in need of care which is a massive understatement. Its a very badly built kit of unknown origin but it does show the3 style of underframe adopted with a crude form of compensation.

 

Thompson-Van.jpg.601332d7925919f4af5fcf42a041268d.jpg

 

The builder has not fitted any glazing to the top lights and the paintwork is dire. To be honest it needs completing stripping and rebuilding. I attach for reference.

 

There is a picture in the Harris book  which seems to sow similar underframe details

 

Paul R

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John,

 

Railways in profile No6 Plate 38, shoes E 70680, built 1950.

Photographed in late 50's in BR crimson with yellow lining and lettering. Also states 64 in service in 1976, all gone by 1980, so probably in blue before the end.

 

John 

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Today's progress:

 

 

P1010060.JPG.48ad64ca6603962e504ee43922f80c68.JPG

 

Floor trimmed to length, holes drilled and solebars added.

 

My temp. controlled iron crapped out so I had to resort to my backup which is only 25W.  It was a struggle to get the solebars on but I perservered and it got done.

 

There's a half etched overlay which will get done tomorrow.

 

Note the patch at the far end.  I wanted to enlarge the holes to give me some wiggle but they ended up way too big.

 

 

P1010061.JPG.03b70d0b72cbaf1a9aab591688da1688.JPG

 

I wanted to show the floor attachment bracket.  Nuts soldered on with bated breath but happily I didn't bond the screws in.

 

All very tricky to get everything aligned but I managed.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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9 hours ago, brossard said:

Nuts soldered on with bated breath but happily I didn't bond the screws in.

 

All very tricky to get everything aligned but I managed.

Funnily enough I read how to do this 2 days ago (may have been on PWR's thread come to think of it). A wooden peg, self tapped using the nut. I've never had to do this but such a neat solution I'm looking for an excuse now!

Edited by Hal Nail
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Yes indeed they were. The photo in the Harris book shows that distinctly. I wold post it hear but I think I would be in breach of copyright so best not.

 

I think my built version has them so arranged too.

 

Paul R

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21 hours ago, pwr said:

That's Interesting Dava

 

Was it painted blue?

 

John

 

There is nothing in Nick Camplings book "Historic Carriage Drawings"

 

I will check my other source

 

Paul R

Yes, rail blue.

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4 hours ago, Hal Nail said:

Funnily enough I read how to do this 2 days ago (may have been on PWR's thread come to think of it). A wooden peg, self tapped using the nut. I've never had to do this but such a neat solution I'm looking for an excuse now!

 

My technique is to smear oil on the bolt threads and then tighten.  It worked for me.  The peg idea might just be better.  I must keep that in my back pocket for next time.  If something goes wrong with my method, the whole thing has to be cut off and started again. 

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4 hours ago, CloggyDog said:

One thing to watch on these Thompson 6-wheelers is that the leaf springs were behind the w-irons. 

 

Looks good so far! 

 

The W irons and springs are a whitemetal casting so I can't mess that up.

 

John

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I've been working on the underframe:

 

 

P1010062.JPG.b54f5559306c1ebc1ca26525ecc63c3b.JPG

 

The Cleminson mechanism can be seen.  I had to put a notch in the stretcher to clear the V hanger.

 

There's a false floor onto which the gubbins will be attached.

 

Note the buffer beams are on.  The buffer holes have been reamed to accept the buffers.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Numpty alert!  I only noticed as I was posting the above picture that the Cleminson units were back to front.  :rtfm:

 

All fixed now:

 

 

P1010001.JPG.07a2957c9e2f9bfaf513b567e3c8f847.JPG

 

I got the brakes installed.  Disappointing that yokes are not supplied.  I can make them but it is a PITA.  Similarly there are no safety loops but I'm used to that by now as I don't think any kit maker gives a thought to these.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Today's job was to make the yokes:

 

 

P1010002.JPG.0c68f6aafdb1e9ac6156ac51ce5bb2f8.JPG

 

I used brass tube with 0.8mm ID.  Bent over strip was soldered to the tube.  Strip was soldered to the angle and twisted 90 deg.  One strip is longer than the other.  0.8mm wire was slipped into the tube ID and the assembly soldered in position between the brakes.  The two yokes were joined with a representation of the crank that links to the brake actuator.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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6 hours ago, brossard said:

Today's job was to make the yokes:

I must put some shots up but I've been working on a second hand ABS LNER high goods which I picked up for £15: generally in pretty good shape but was missing the yokes. I confess I was going to make do with just the visible rod between the brake arms but I have a slightly looser attitude to the underside detail!

Edited by Hal Nail
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I would ordinarily install the trussing, vac pipes under a wagon.  In this case, because of the Cleminson device, I may have to compromise.  My intent is to go forward with the build and to see how things lie.

 

The yokes are visible as are the safety loops.

 

I'm curious whether anyone produces the yokes.  I checked Hobby Holidays but didn't see any.

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