Liscombe - 7mm GWR station - small shunting layout

[PMP99]

Progress has been a little slow again, however the signal box window frames have been made up and painted ready for fitting.

[PMP99]

Windows fitted to building shell

[Guest WM183]

Hello Graham, 

 

You're really making gorgeous models of those L cut kits. I really like the goods shed and am excited to see what you do with the signal box! 

 

You and i have very similar sized spaces available for our models too.  I have about 9 feet for scenic area and about 3 feet for a fiddle yard, but i think your track plan is a lot better than mine. I like how your bay platform and goods shed are on different tracks.

 

Do you have your signals and turnouts controlled from your NCE controller? We even have the same DCC system...!

 

Amanda 

[PMP99]

11 hours ago, WM183 said:

Hello Graham, 

 

You're really making gorgeous models of those L cut kits. I really like the goods shed and am excited to see what you do with the signal box! 

 

You and i have very similar sized spaces available for our models too.  I have about 9 feet for scenic area and about 3 feet for a fiddle yard, but i think your track plan is a lot better than mine. I like how your bay platform and goods shed are on different tracks.

 

Do you have your signals and turnouts controlled from your NCE controller? We even have the same DCC system...!

 

Amanda 

Hi Amanda,

 

Thanks, the LCUT kits don’t turn out too badly with a bit of work. I’ve got a Severn Models lever frame and accessories to work on next for the interior.

 

No, the Powercab, which is running off an SB5 booster only controls the track. The booster may have been overkill, but all my locos are sound fitted, so thought it might be for the best.

 

I don’t really want to be fiddling around with the handset trying to control points and signals, so they are just DC controlled Tortoise motors. Same as I am doing with my 4mm layout. Some of the toggle switches are shown here.

 

I was actually looking at your thread last night, some very nice modelling there.

 

Graham

[PMP99]

I was intending to fit a Severn Models lever frame in the signal box, however having purchased the Peco interior kit to obtain better interior fixtures I have decided to use the lever frame from that.

 

The Peco frame has been made up, although I have used the lever numbers from the Severn Models kit to detail it.

[PMP99]

Lever frame installed in the signal box. I am putting it at the back of the box so that it, and the details on the forthcoming instrument shelf are more visible through the windows!

[brossard]

Super work here.  I am a fan of Lcut buildings and have a fair number of them on my layout including the signalbox you are working on.  I don't like the bricks though and have faced my Lcut buildings with Scalescenes brick paper.  I also have a number of Scalescenes buildings blown up to 7mm, these look good to my eye.

 

You can see my buildings in the link below.

 

Since I use DCC staionary decoders for turnouts, I don't need a control panel and have used momentary on switches along the fascia.  These are on both sides of the layout so it can be operated from either side.  The only drawback is that if I lean over the layout my stomach will change the turnout.

 

John

[daifly]

19 minutes ago, PMP99 said:

Lever frame installed in the signal box. I am putting it at the back of the box so that it, and the details on the forthcoming instrument shelf are more visible through the windows!

Except that's not how they were normally laid out! 

Dave

[PMP99]

23 minutes ago, brossard said:

Super work here.  I am a fan of Lcut buildings and have a fair number of them on my layout including the signalbox you are working on.  I don't like the bricks though and have faced my Lcut buildings with Scalescenes brick paper.  I also have a number of Scalescenes buildings blown up to 7mm, these look good to my eye.

 

You can see my buildings in the link below.

 

Since I use DCC staionary decoders for turnouts, I don't need a control panel and have used momentary on switches along the fascia.  These are on both sides of the layout so it can be operated from either side.  The only drawback is that if I lean over the layout my stomach will change the turnout.

 

John

Thanks John,

 

Yes, you have made a very nice job of your LCUT buildings, and the Scalescenes ones. In fact whole model looking very good indeed.

 

Graham

[PMP99]

5 minutes ago, daifly said:

Except that's not how they were normally laid out! 

Dave

Normally no, but not exclusively so.

Penmaenpool, the subject of my other model, being a case in point.

 

Graham

[brossard]

1 hour ago, PMP99 said:

Thanks John,

 

Yes, you have made a very nice job of your LCUT buildings, and the Scalescenes ones. In fact whole model looking very good indeed.

 

Graham

 

Thanks for those kind words and I am pleased that you took the time to check out my thread.

 

John

[PMP99]

36 minutes ago, brossard said:

 

Thanks for those kind words and I am pleased that you took the time to check out my thread.

 

John

I’m glad you drew my attention to your posts.

I was particularly interested to see how your station building had turned out, as that is one option I’m considering.

However, once the signal box is finished I’ll be turning my attention back to my 4mm layout in the garage whilst we have some warmer months!

 

Graham

[brossard]

The station building turned out to be quite time consuming.  I added quite a lot of embellishment, particularly inside.  I used Scalescenes ideas for it, the roof in particular.  It looks quite good I think.  I argued with my buds that it might be too big for the modest station.

 

I did 4mm for around 30 years but when 7mm hit me it was like Paul on the road to Damascus.  I sold everything and decided to devote my meager energies to 7mm.  Going 7mm was one of my best moves.

 

John

[PMP99]

Signal box interior fitted out with the Peco kit items and a hand drawn track diagram

[PMP99]

Straight on view of interior.

 

 

[PMP99]

Having ordered some fire buckets to go on the signal box, which is finally nearing completion, I have added some to the goods shed as well.

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by PMP99

[PMP99]

The signal box is finally complete now with roof, guttering, steps, fire buckets etc.

 

The nearest roof section is effectively hinged by the ridge tiles to access the interior if needed.

I discarded the LCUT supplied walkway over the rodding and replaced it with my own made  from lime wood.

Just needs the interior lighting connecting up now.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by PMP99

[brossard]

Nice, Graham.  I'm mulling the point rodding myself.  Could you post a close up or two of how you did that?

 

I have stool etches from Hobby Holidays (Ambis) and some compensation crank etches from Wizard (MSE).

 

Cheers

 

John

Edited June 14, 2021 by brossard

[PMP99]

20 hours ago, brossard said:

Nice, Graham.  I'm mulling the point rodding myself.  Could you post a close up or two of how you did that?

 

I have stool etches from Hobby Holidays (Ambis) and some compensation crank etches from Wizard (MSE).

 

Cheers

 

John

Thanks John.

 

I am not sure the point rodding bears very close inspection, but I will see what I can do!

[PMP99]

On 14/06/2021 at 23:05, brossard said:

Nice, Graham.  I'm mulling the point rodding myself.  Could you post a close up or two of how you did that?

 

I have stool etches from Hobby Holidays (Ambis) and some compensation crank etches from Wizard (MSE).

 

Cheers

 

John

Hi John,
 

A few attempts at closeups.

 

I used the Wills point rodding kits for 4mm to provide the cranks, compensators and mounted them on small blocks to raise them up, and to try and replicate concrete basis. I also used the forked arms to connect the cranks to the rodding.

They may not be the best, just that I had quite a few left over from my 4mm layout!

 

The stools are from Modelu and are the ones for GWR round rodding, again set on blocks.

 

The rodding itself is just 0.7mm nickel silver wire from MSE, and the dummy signal wire pulleys outside the signal box were left overs from other MSE kits if I remember correctly.

 

The hardest part was gluing the rodding to the ends of the Wills arms.

 

Hope that helps?

 

Graham

 

 

 

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by PMP99

[PMP99]

On 14/06/2021 at 23:05, brossard said:

Nice, Graham.  I'm mulling the point rodding myself.  Could you post a close up or two of how you did that?

 

I have stool etches from Hobby Holidays (Ambis) and some compensation crank etches from Wizard (MSE).

 

Cheers

 

John

One further close up, about the best I can do!

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by PMP99

[brossard]

Ooooh, yes!  That will help a lot, thanks.  I'm not at all sure that I can do an authentic job.  However, any rodding is an improvement over nothing.

 

John

Edited June 15, 2021 by brossard

[PMP99]

1 hour ago, brossard said:

Ooooh, yes!  That will help a lot, thanks.  I'm not at all sure that I can do an authentic job.  However, any rodding is an improvement over nothing.

 

John

I’ve tried to follow prototypical practice as much as I can, but as you rightly say anything is better than nothing.

 

There is an extensive article in the GWR journal No 89 Winter 2014 by Mike Christensen on GWR point rodding which includes some excellent close up photos and explanatory diagrams of cranks, compensators, rodding runs etc....

It may still be available from some sources.

 

Graham

[brossard]

Unfortunately, I don't have the GWR Journal.  However, you remind me that I have full sets of LMS Journal and Midland Record, must have a look.  There is probably something on the subject there.

 

I also came across this blog:

 

John

 

[PMP99]

19 minutes ago, brossard said:

Unfortunately, I don't have the GWR Journal.  However, you remind me that I have full sets of LMS Journal and Midland Record, must have a look.  There is probably something on the subject there.

 

I also came across this blog:

 

John

 

Yes, I think I read that thread myself a long time ago. There’s probably plenty of pictures around on the net that will assist you as well. 
It’s just understanding the basic geometry of the layout that’s needed.