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Forsinard and the Far North


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30 minutes ago, jools1959 said:

Pictures look great, I’d love to come up again and see the progress you’ve achieved.  I assume you’ve sorted the baseboard warping with keeping the heating on?

 

Yes, baseboards have dried out and warping under control . it was very localised and I don`t think it will be a problem but it was a little scary when first discovered ! . Kept the heating on for 48 hours and that seem to have done the trick !

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This afternoon I was looking at the backscenes and how to get them to stand upright. I thought I had worked out a system but now am not so sure.  May I ask anyone with experience how you have achieved this please ? Any advice will be gratefully received

 

The back scenes can be seen in these photos. These are not the actual boards I will use but they will be the same size (1 ft high)

Behind the boards is a hidden line going around the entire perimeter which makes securing the backscenes upright more difficult (at least to me !) 

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can offer suggestions.

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Edited by class26
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Hate to be a fly in the ointment but they should have been put up first after the baseboards have been built or not long after you’ve finalised the track plan.  
 

For the hidden sidings, insert some baton’s to attach to the scenic boards to after you’ve laid the track and happy with it.  Just remember that the scenic boards go in front the hidden sidings.  If you want, I can come over and show you what I mean.

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Hi 

 

For removable backscenes, I used plastic 2 part furniture connectors, available at any DIY store. The female unit is fixed to the baseboard and the male part to the backscene. The two parts are a snug fit so you do not need the additional screw to keep them together. 

 

Hope that makes sense, can provide some photos of my much smaller backscene units if needed.

 

Nick 

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2 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Hate to be a fly in the ointment but they should have been put up first after the baseboards have been built or not long after you’ve finalised the track plan.  
 

For the hidden sidings, insert some baton’s to attach to the scenic boards to after you’ve laid the track and happy with it.  Just remember that the scenic boards go in front the hidden sidings.  If you want, I can come over and show you what I mean.

 

Yes, I always knew that but typically go charging in as it`s not a job I wanted to do but then regret it later ! I don`t think it`s too late though, Problem is I thought I had it worked out and maybe I have but i don`t think my idea is the best way of securing the backscenes which Is why i`m asking for ideas.  

 

Yes, I have them in front of the sidings and that`s the problem. The hidden track is all down. 

When you are next in this part would be grateful of assistance.

Edited by class26
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1 hour ago, stivesnick said:

Hi 

 

For removable backscenes, I used plastic 2 part furniture connectors, available at any DIY store. The female unit is fixed to the baseboard and the male part to the backscene. The two parts are a snug fit so you do not need the additional screw to keep them together. 

 

Hope that makes sense, can provide some photos of my much smaller backscene units if needed.

 

Nick 

Hi Nick,

 

A photo would be helpful please if you have one.

 

Many thanks

 

 

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18 hours ago, class26 said:

Hi Nick,

 

A photo would be helpful please if you have one.

 

Many thanks

 

Hi 

 

Pictures as requested. 

 

My removable backscene is for the fiddle yard and allows two boards to be boxed up for transportation. As your backscene is much longer and you appear not to have access to the back of backscene for installation, a slight modification is needed. I would go for a continious wooden strip at the bottom of the backsecne to ease installtion and to stiffen up the backscene to keep it straight. Method as follows.

 

1. mark line of backscene on layout  and install female  furniture blocks offset from the line by the depth of the backscene plus the depth of the wodden strip,. (photo 1)

 

2. With the female part of the furniture block in place, screw the female part of the blocks to the wooden strip. Check that the wooden strip and blocks can be easily plugged in and removed from the block on the baseboard.

 

3. Glue/screw the wooden strip to the bottom of the backscene. (photo 2) In your case the wooden strip is continious to help line up the blocks. 

 

4. Hopefully you now have a backscene that is rigid but can be removed if required. (photo 3)

 

Hope that makes sense.

 

Nick 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20201121 backscene join 1.jpg

20201121 backscene join 2.jpg

20201121 backscene join 3.jpg

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Many thanks, it all makes sense and much appreciated. The boards I have up are only old ones, I will be cutting new ones so can make them whatever length I feel is best. Some need to curve so I thought hardboard might be best as this curves reasonably ok.

 

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A piece of Plywood at right angles to the backscene, tapering to the top if wanted, the same height or just slightly shorter, with a cut out for the hidden tracks to go through will ensure that the backscene stays square. You could even put a conti board connection near the top to be certain. Sorry not on a computer to do a drawing so ask for any clarification if needed. Simon

Edited by simonmcp
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1 hour ago, Clagmeister said:

How much space have you got in that shed?

 

It's got that feel of the Far North already.

 

Excellent

 

Claggy

Thanks,

 

The idea with the Flow Country is that it is sparse. Everything  will be taken from my travels on the line so an abandoned croft, lots of falling apart snow fences, some stags, very few trees and the very individual lattice bridge.

    

I have 24 x 12 feet available  and are using every inch of it !

Edited by class26
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57 minutes ago, simonmcp said:

A piece of Plywood at right angles to the backscene, tapering to the top if wanted, the same height or just slightly shorter, with a cut out for the hidden tracks to go through will ensure that the backscene stays square. You could even put a conti board connection near the top to be certain. Sorry not on a computer to do a drawing so ask for any clarification if needed. Simon

 Many thanks, that all makes complete sense and no need for a drawing. I may well use this idea. Much appreciated.

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 Some work over the weekend on the lattice bridge abutments as seen in these photos. It needs a little tweaking yet and painting, the abutments only have received a coat of primer so far..

 

In the photos 37025 heads north from Georgemas with the Thurso portion from Inverness 

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1 hour ago, class26 said:

One final shot crossing the bridge

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Almost looks like a winter/spring snow scene.  The snow starting to melt and the grass starting to push through.

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With regard to the backscene, here are a couple of warts and all shots of how I arranged mine - ID Hills and Dales spray mounted on to artists mounting board and held in place with a wooden channel. All very crude but it remains upright and is easily removeable for access behind the scenes, and has been in place for eight years now with no problems. The boards are  44" long and butt together helped by a clip at the top that is never photographed...:wacko: and due to the curves involved  are of a standard  quality rather than a chalk buffered board that gives a white core but is considerably more stiff. I have a wrinkle or two in places due to my haste in forming the backscene after spraying, and replacement self adhesive  polypropylene ones are waiting for me to get round to it. I now use a cold laminator to fix backscenes rather than the heart in mouth Photomount option, but using mount board makes getting behind the scenes a simple job. I have 1/2" square uprights at each end of a board  and channels every 18" or so and tis has proved sufficient for the job.

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10 hours ago, jools1959 said:

Almost looks like a winter/spring snow scene.  The snow starting to melt and the grass starting to push through.

 

Appropriately we will have to wait until the spring for the colour to appear unfortunately ! Much to do underneath the base boards in the way of wiring etc first  

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7 hours ago, Ben Alder said:

With regard to the backscene, here are a couple of warts and all shots of how I arranged mine - ID Hills and Dales spray mounted on to artists mounting board and held in place with a wooden channel. All very crude but it remains upright and is easily removeable for access behind the scenes, and has been in place for eight years now with no problems. The boards are  44" long and butt together helped by a clip at the top that is never photographed...:wacko: and due to the curves involved  are of a standard  quality rather than a chalk buffered board that gives a white core but is considerably more stiff. I have a wrinkle or two in places due to my haste in forming the backscene after spraying, and replacement self adhesive  polypropylene ones are waiting for me to get round to it. I now use a cold laminator to fix backscenes rather than the heart in mouth Photomount option, but using mount board makes getting behind the scenes a simple job. I have 1/2" square uprights at each end of a board  and channels every 18" or so and tis has proved sufficient for the job.

20201122_213620.jpg

20201122_213548.jpg

 

Many thanks Richard, as always very helpful

 

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On 21/11/2020 at 19:20, class26 said:

Thanks,

 

The idea with the Flow Country is that it is sparse. Everything  will be taken from my travels on the line so an abandoned croft, lots of falling apart snow fences, some stags, very few trees and the very individual lattice bridge.

    

I have 24 x 12 feet available  and are using every inch of it !

 

The more I look the better it gets.  Plenty of space and minimal railway modelling.  Think its the only way to capture the essence of railways.  Certainly up there where you have chosen but pretty sure it applies to most locations.  It would have been so tempting to pack a load in that super space.

Edited by Clagmeister
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5 minutes ago, Clagmeister said:

 

The more I look the better it gets.  Plenty of space and minimal railway modelling.  Think its the only way to capture the essence of railways.  Certainly up there where you have chosen but pretty sure it applies to most locations.  It would have been so tempting to pack a load in that super space.

Thanks. Apart from loving this area my forte is not buildings but the scenery so this is perfect for me and in all my 30 + years modelling I have only either modelled the Kyle or Far North line, previously in less space,  this shed having only arrived in the early summer. Would have loved to have fitted in Georgemas for the operational interest but can`t be greedy ! This is really for solo operating although it could take a second person. i can watch a train for hours on a single meandering line travelling through such scenery.

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Hi there, this is looking great and loving the wild expanses. One bit of advice (please don't take as criticism) but the bridge abutments should probably extend out beyond the girders and would also probably have a pilaster (upstand) outside of the girder. I don't have any photos of the actual bridge in question so may be wrong but looking at a few long distance aerial photos I think it should have.

 

Line below is the end of the viaduct at Montrose, obviously not the right bridge but a similar arrangement to show what I mean.

 

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Montrose_Railway_Viaduct,_south_end.jpg

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9 hours ago, SHerr said:

Hi there, this is looking great and loving the wild expanses. One bit of advice (please don't take as criticism) but the bridge abutments should probably extend out beyond the girders and would also probably have a pilaster (upstand) outside of the girder. I don't have any photos of the actual bridge in question so may be wrong but looking at a few long distance aerial photos I think it should have.

 

Line below is the end of the viaduct at Montrose, obviously not the right bridge but a similar arrangement to show what I mean.

 

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Montrose_Railway_Viaduct,_south_end.jpg

You are right and I found this photo of a similar bridge on the Kyle line just outside Achnasheen station. All the photos I have of those on the FNL are relatively distant shots or do not show the abutments in sufficient detail. I think it is not too difficult to make the necessary amendments.

 

image.png.930d2b457d14fd412d1f23d887d91983.png 

Edited by class26
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14 hours ago, class26 said:

You are right and I found this photo of a similar bridge on the Kyle line just outside Achnasheen station. All the photos I have of those on the FNL are relatively distant shots or do not show the abutments in sufficient detail. I think it is not too difficult to make the necessary amendments.

 

image.png.930d2b457d14fd412d1f23d887d91983.png 

Thanks, glad the info is of use. Good picture as well. There was some sort of Wikiwand page for lattice truss bridges that had a couple of FNL bridges and your one above may be one of them but I couldn’t get the link to copy.

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