Powering a temporary layout

[DK123GWR]

I am currently building a small 00 BLT which is operated on a one engine in steam basis and can be easily stored when out of use. The design of the baseboard and layout is complete however in order to store the layout I will need a way of disconnecting the controller. As the controller is self-assembled, I am able to use any sort of connection between the track and the controller, however it needs to meet certain criteria.

1) Durability - I will be connecting and disconnecting the supply frequently and need to be able to do this without breaking anything.

2) Cheap - and preferably available from non-specialist suppliers (supermarkets, pound shops, DIY stores, etc.)

3) Not a mains plug - I had considered this as it meets the above requirements until I realised that there is nothing to stop somebody accidentally plugging the layout directly into the mains and making the track live at 230V AC, which could easily dispatch any locomotives on the track, as well as the idiot that plugged it in.

 

Thanks in adavance for any suggestions on what sort of connection may be appropriate.

Edited November 8, 2020 by DK123GWR

[kevinlms]

2 minutes ago, DK123GWR said:

3) Not a mains plug - I had considered this as it meets the above requirements until I realised that there is nothing to stop somebody accidentally plugging the layout directly into the mains and making the track live at 230V AC, which could easily dispatch any locomotives on the track, as well as the idiot that plugged it in.

 

I would hope that NO ONE ever does such a foolish thing!

[DK123GWR]

1 minute ago, Oldddudders said:

Yes, do use a mains plug and socket, for all the robust qualities they bring - but put the plug on the controller lead and the socket on the layout. No chance of any mains supply having a plug, rather than a socket!

A good idea if I can get it to work. It may be harder to fit the socket to the layout than the controller and I guess that putting the wrong plug in would kill the controller, but it's certainly preferable to putting the mains supply into the track.

[kevinlms]

54 minutes ago, Oldddudders said:

Yes, do use a mains plug and socket, for all the robust qualities they bring - but put the plug on the controller lead and the socket on the layout. No chance of any mains supply having a plug, rather than a socket!

I think that you'll find that regulations exist to stop such dangerous practice. 

 

But do whatever you think best!

[ejstubbs]

How about an old-style ¼" headphone plug and socket?  These were/are used for connecting electric guitars, synths etc to amplifiers are are designed to be connected and disconnected frequently during their lifetime.  They're pretty cheap, and although they aren't often found in non-specialist shops they're very easy to buy online.  I'd suggest a panel-mount socket on the baseboard somewhere, with the plug on a coiled lead back to the controller.  (FWIW I use a 3mm headphone plug & socket for my 'scratch' layout and they work fine.)

 

55 minutes ago, DK123GWR said:

I guess that putting the wrong plug in would kill the controller

 

Assuming it doesn't fry the cable from the plug to the controller and start a fire first.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't even contemplate using connectors designed for mains wiring in such a situation.

Edited November 8, 2020 by ejstubbs

[Colin_McLeod]

1 hour ago, Oldddudders said:

Yes, do use a mains plug and socket, for all the robust qualities they bring - but put the plug on the controller lead and the socket on the layout. No chance of any mains supply having a plug, rather than a socket!

 

NO NO NO NO.

 

What is to stop someone thinking that  the controller needs to be plugged in. Connecting the output side of the controller into mains is crazy.

 

 

KEEP MAINS EQUIPMENT FOR MAINS VOLTAGE.

 

There are plenty of low voltage plug and sockets available as a quick look on Amazon or EBay will show.

[Dagworth]

1/4 inch jack plug would be my suggestion. 
 

Some of the connectors are rated at up to 5 amps, they used to be used (and still are in guitar set-ups) as high power speaker connectors. I use them on my DCC systems. 
 

Andi

[meil]

I suggest an XLR plug and socket. It's specifically designed for the purpose.

[Wheatley]

All my loose controllers have jack plugs (3mm rather than 1/4" but only because I bought a job lot) it makes life much easier when one packs in or I need to rig something up temprarily. The main layout has a Gaugemaster hand held built in but still has a 3mm jack socket as a stand by so I can nick the lad's train set controller in an emergency. 

 

If I was starting from scratch I would probably go for XLRs. 

[DK123GWR]

I've been looking at XLRs and they seem to tick all of the boxes. I'll most likely go with those.

[Dave John]

Hmm, engineering good practice would suggest that energy should flow from a socket to a plug, since the probability of a short happening at a socket is less than that at a plug. 

 

So for connecting a supply to a layout it should be a free socket and a fixed plug. 

 

As has been suggested XLRs are ideal, robust with good cable supports.

 

 

Like so, many suppliers available. 

 

 

[cpman46]

Here's an XLR plug and socket arrangement that I installed on a friends layout.

 

The LED confirms that 16V ac is available at the socket.

Edited November 8, 2020 by cpman46
Updated information

[Free At Last]

Neutrik Speakons are another useful connector. They are lockable, contacts shrouded preventing shorts, high current rating and the plugs have screw terminals. 
 

Edited November 8, 2020 by Free At Last
spelling

[DavidB-AU]

Plenty of options for connectors would meet the requirement. 6.5mm phono, XLR, 5 pin DIN (16V AC to the controller, controlled DC out), 4 pin mini Molex (like a computer power supply), Anderson Powerpoles (VERY robust). IEC 60130-10, EIAJ connector.

 

Cheers

David

[johnd]

Standard Phono plugs and sockets I find are fine. Seeing as i use 3 different methods of control ( computer + 2 types of controller as the mood fits) each method of control has its own dedicated set of leads fitted with the male plugs. As i use DCC the same applies to the programming track just use Black for main and red for programming.

 

  Never had any problems and relatively cheap to source.

Edited November 8, 2020 by johnd

[kevinlms]

1 hour ago, Colin_McLeod said:

 

NO NO NO NO.

 

What is to stop someone thinking that  the controller needs to be plugged in. Connecting the output side of the controller into mains is crazy.

 

 

KEEP MAINS EQUIPMENT FOR MAINS VOLTAGE.

 

There are plenty of low voltage plug and sockets available as a quick look on Amazon or EBay will show.

I heard of one house in Australia that 'someone' (presumably the previous owner) had used mains plugs and sockets for the telephones, although with phone cable.

Apparently, the wall sockets were in pairs around the house and while unmarked in any way, it was suggested that the LH ones were for phones, the RH for power!

The place got referred by the phone tech who went out to his supervisor, who presumably arranged for all the wiring to be checked out.

 

But yes highly dangerous. I did attend one site, where the phone cord accidentally got draped over a bar heater. The complaint from the customer was that the phone rang very loud, so they unplugged it! Turned out that the phone system had some cooked boards, due to 240 volts flowing back.

[AndyID]

Slightly off topic but true. Getting on for 60 years ago my friend's uncle managed to connect my friend's Dublo Marshall controller to his 3-rail layout backwards! The output was connected to 240 and the power cord went to the layout. To make matters worse he put the HD Castle in the track and turned it on. Fortunately no one was injured but the Castle and the Marshall were both caput.

 

I suspect the uncle had borrowed the mains plug from the controller at some point. Probably a round pin 5 or 15 amp.

[Oldddudders]

7 hours ago, kevinlms said:

I think that you'll find that regulations exist to stop such dangerous practice. 

Really? Back in the '60s, the ECRA (Electric Car Racing Association) recommended plug for slot racing controllers was the 2 amp round pin three-pin mains plug, with sockets on the fascia of the bespoke tracks. The system was universal, meaning clubs could visit each other for competitions and know compatibility was a given. 

[AndyID]

Why not banana plugs with very flexible meter wire?

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Banana-Socket-Connectors-Pairs-Black/dp/B00ZC4QVF2/ref=pd_sbs_23_3/259-1809507-8572343?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZC4QVF2&pd_rd_r=6c4c2d90-8dfc-4ebb-a616-e74c819dcab5&pd_rd_w=og5Ye&pd_rd_wg=Wt8yy&pf_rd_p=2304238d-df78-4b25-a9a0-b27dc7bd722e&pf_rd_r=1ZWGVGNF93BXFTPFM987&psc=1&refRID=1ZWGVGNF93BXFTPFM987

 

(No commercial connection but good electrical connection)

[DCB]

I/4" Jack plugs for me. I changed the DIN plugs on OnTrack controllers for Stereo Jack plugs as the Dins fall apart with continued disconnections and the Jack plugs pull out when you step on the leads whereas on DIN and XLR  the plug stays in and the lead pulls out and has to be refitted.   They are good for about 4 amps so OK for DCC.   Might need colour coding if you have more than a couple but as a generalisation the kids won't notice if you borrow some of the spray paint they use for quasi Bankseys on the local underpass.

[AndyID]

1 hour ago, DavidCBroad said:

I/4" Jack plugs for me. I changed the DIN plugs on OnTrack controllers for Stereo Jack plugs as the Dins fall apart with continued disconnections and the Jack plugs pull out when you step on the leads whereas on DIN and XLR  the plug stays in and the lead pulls out and has to be refitted.   They are good for about 4 amps so OK for DCC.   Might need colour coding if you have more than a couple but as a generalisation the kids won't notice if you borrow some of the spray paint they use for quasi Bankseys on the local underpass.

 

Jack plugs might be OK but that depends on what you are plugging in. They can reverse polarity and also create a dead-short. That's not a problem when I connect my axe to my 5000 watt amps but it could fubar a sensitive DCC system.

[cliff park]

Can I just point out , a bit late, that putting a mains plug on the controller lead must be the craziest idea ever. The controller will now have two mains plugs, and inevitably, sooner or later, the wrong one will be plugged into the mains, with disastrous results.