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62C Models NBR Coaches - making a start on a second 4 wheeler


brossard
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Over the last few days I have been plodding away at the underframe.  Much the same as the previous coach interms of build.

 

Here's where I am today:

 

 

P1010004.JPG.fb512702e26b2bed29933b217f50c611.JPG

 

I just installed the step boards this morning.  I decided I had better trial fit the body and it all worked without drama.  Quite pleased about that.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Yesterday, I started to detail the underframe:

 

 

P1010006.JPG.1a6c4ca560ce6db4ec81bcf05b414d6c.JPG

 

8BA screws soldered on (the instructions say 10BA but that seems just too small).  These will attach the carriers.

 

Axleboxes soldered on.  Westinghouse accumulator also soldered (a right pain it was too).

 

There are two locations on the underframe etch for gas cylinders and the kit has two cylinder saddles.  However, there are no cylinders in the kit.  I sent a note to 62C for clarification.

 

Finally, tie bars fitted.

 

Today I worked on the carriers:

 

 

P1010005.JPG.a2ffbc91e2f63a941db5630275c06818.JPG

 

Folded and soldered, all very routine.  Bearings were supplied with the wheels so a bit of broaching needed to get them to fit.  Once fitted, the bearings themselves needed some broaching as well.

 

Brakes require adjustment to sit over the tyres correctly.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Today, I got the carriers done with wheels and yokes.  I was pleasantly surprised that safety loops were actually included.  I think this is the first time I have ever seen a kit even acknowledge the existence of these.

 

 

P1010008.JPG.a80d090e9a4aebd7e44b76986f999e2c.JPG

 

You might recall that I soldered a 8BA screw onto the underframe.  When it came to securing the carriers this proved impossible (for me anyway) because of fouling with the yokes and inability to turn the nut to get it started (I don't have BA nut drivers).

 

After some faffing and swearing I finally turned things upside down and put the screw through from the bottom and got the nut on easily from the top.

 

The chassis has a had a run through my smallish radius crossover and works great first time!

 

Here it is on the track:

 

 

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In accordance with Sod's Law, I got the center wheels off the rails :angry:

 

Getting close to the finish line now.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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  • brossard changed the title to 62C Models NBR 6 wheeled luggage composite - back to the brake third for a bit

A milestone today as I married the brake 3rd underframe, body and roof for the first time.

 

 

P1010010-001.JPG.78ac840e798039f4f546559727ecaf5b.JPG

 

Quite pleased with this.  NBR had vermillion brake ends which look striking.  Roof is on loosely and is a very good fit.

 

 

P1010011-001.JPG.318b9eb07a45c88790e38a2c95dab4e3.JPG

 

It is ready to give back to the owner for him to line and apply transfers (assuming they become available).  After that,  T handles and I have made internal panels.  I prepared seats today.

 

It is too glossy for my taste as it is.  This is to aid transfer adhesion.  Once they are done it will get some satin or matte varnish.

 

The 6 wheeler body has been primed today.  I am just finishing the gas cylinders so once they are on I can prime the underframe.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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On 17/11/2020 at 13:12, brossard said:

Thanks for the reply Nick.  In my experience with vacuum brakes, the actuation is always in the pull direction, since trying to exert a pushing force through a long small dia rod would be a problem I think.

Pull rods are most common. However, I've recently come across some SER and SECR stock in which the vacuum brakes have a pull-rod to one axle and a push-rod to the other. The brake shaft is offset toward one axle and that one has the push-rod; the latter is quite short.

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  • brossard changed the title to 62C Models NBR 6 wheeled luggage composite - finished for now

I've been doing a blitz to try to get both coaches done.  The 4 wheeler is finished and I just got the 6 wheeler assembled:

 

 

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I learned that the solebars were body colour.  I did the other coach too.

 

Roof is on loosely as there is interior and glazing yet to do.

 

The owner's job is to add the transfers.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • brossard changed the title to 62C Models NBR Coaches - now with transfers on

I received the coaches back from the owner so now the ball is in my court to complete the interiors:

 

 

P1010022-001.JPG.efe23ec9083c9c2a0d8bafc37426ae3f.JPG

 

The roofs have been redone in dark grey and the solebars are black again - only bogie coaches had solebars of body colour.

 

I also have another 4 wheeled 3rd brake in my possession.  This will be arranged with the later gas lighting instead of oil.

 

John

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  • 3 months later...

I have just gone through this thread John after you kindly sent me the link, absolutely cracking stuff sir, you have done a fantastic job on these. 

I have to admit I don’t know a great deal about the NBR but these look great, I ahall definitely be making some time to have a go at some of these in the near future, thank you for sharing.

 

Rob

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I have picked up the second 4 wheel coach to try to get some progress made on it.  I have had it a shockingly long time and done nothing.  My excuse is that work on the layout has been a full time job, but things seem to be waning a bit.  I won't do a blow by blow this time, the only difference is that it will be gas lit rather than oil.

 

I dredged this thread out of the ether where it had languished.  Noticed to my disgust that most pictures had bee lost so I reinstated them.

 

Here's a pic of the train at Rail Expo last year:

 

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You can just make out Royal Hudson behind the layout.

 

John

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  • brossard changed the title to 62C Models NBR Coaches - making a start on a second 4 wheeler

So, I have got the build to the completion of phase 1, the underframe.

 

P1010006-001.JPG.70ea851fdd4329666d43caf9f1e18469.JPG

 

My main issue is heat.  It is difficult to get sufficient heat into the work.  I have a 50W Weller soldering station and I can crank up the tip temp to over 400C which does help.  Getting the air reservoir (lwb casting lower right) on was a right bu**er.  I finally managed it by soldering the casting to a strip of scrap and then soldering the brass to the chassis.

 

Other than that, all fairly straightforward.

 

Wheelsets is phase 2.

 

John

 

 

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Phase 2 done today.  Just getting the wheels installed.

 

P1010001-002.JPG.a55523481bc4cfcd95d47b2c93389f8a.JPG

 

Axle boxes are lwb and the hole is smaller than the wheel bearings.  I drilled them out, with difficulty, and plan to glue them to the bearing ends with epoxy.  I'll need to be careful not to glue them to the W irons.  The instructions are a bit vague here.

 

Any better ideas out there?

 

John

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Todays work on the coach, phase 3.1 if you will:
 

P1010002-002.JPG.6cbd1a00a4e099132683d99cf3874e44.JPG

 

All in preparation for building the body.

Sides and ends have a very subtle tumblehome.  Done using a length of dowel.

Sides got door stops from 0.5mm wire soldered to the back (design called for half etched, but oops!).  Also lower hinges added.

Flanges top and bottom were done by clamping the side to a large file with the flange protruding.  I then bent this back as required.  The sides are half etched so attempting to do this with pliers could ruin them.

Brake end (with windows) got a laminated lower section.  Looking at the pic, I may need to revisit that.

The end flanges were done with square ended pliers.

Other end got some small brackets at the top.

John

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The second work session today saw the body assembled and trial fitted to the chassis:

 

P1010001-003.JPG.d25ab7bbfcbe8f28a221bd640d719576.JPG

 

P1010002-003.JPG.f5ea0ed6918c40900962e19ce9900bb0.JPG

 

The instructions said to fit the body to the chassis, bolt it on and solder on the nuts.  Sod that! I thought.  So, off came the ends and I got the nuts soldered (after I had to cut two off because they were soldered solid, masking tape under the screw head and oil on the threads seems to work).  Even so, much easier to solder the nuts on when everything is flat.  I don't recall this issue with the first kit.

When it came to fitting the body to the chassis, the holes were nowhere close so I spent time and effort elongating the chassis holes and things seem good now.

John

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