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Aston On Clun. A forgotten Great Western outpost.


MrWolf
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4 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

 

One option might have been to lay individual roof tiles, made from rectangles of paper, over the existing ridge.

 

I used to do things like that, despite having rather large hands. Unfortunately I have had only about 75% use of my right hand for the last 18 years, so if I can make with a quick and neat solution, I do. It's much less of a problem when making drawings and paintings or fixing engines.

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On 25/10/2021 at 19:46, MrWolf said:

"I think the words I am looking for rhyme with clucking bell....."

 

Careful in glass houses. RMWeb is full of Baldricks with cunning plans :good:, self included.

 

That's it's reason for being

 

Or the French equivalent, which I can't remember how to spell - something to do with raisins. 3rd Year French exam 27% . Still my proudest foreign language achievement, messure. :scenic:

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Angled base of a Wills' stovepipe cut off and turned through ninety degrees so that the cowls are parallel with the roof ridge. This allows a little more room for the ventilation stack between it and the ridge.

 

IMG_20211028_221042.jpg.dc93a5fcd9651ccfa961d1d556109d9d.jpg

 

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10 minutes ago, Fishplate said:

 

Careful in glass houses. RMWeb is full of Baldricks with cunning plans :good:, self included.

 

That's it's reason for being

 

Or the French equivalent, which I can't remember how to spell - something to do with raisins. 3rd Year French exam 27% . Still my proudest foreign language achievement, messure. :scenic:

 

As long as they don't concur with The Great Plan for The Great War.

 

Which as anyone who watched Black Adder Goes Fourth will know (or as any fule kno.) had one tiny flaw.... 

 

It was bol****s.

 

So provided that we all remember the Seven P's, at least most of the time... 

 

Should produce worthwhile results.

 

 

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
Left my swagger stick in the officer's mess.... and probably the liners for my parade gloves.
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Getting there, roof ventilator, gutters and downspouts, handrails and some telephone insulators to add before painting.

 

IMG_20211028_233249.jpg.8560064e06305d6e59c7edfb51797ef8.jpg

 

 

Barge boards are modified Ratio, finials are from Wizard models to match the station.

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Morning Rob, 

 

I've probably missed this but what are the origins of the lovely roof ventilator? 

 

Rather nice don't you know. 

 

Rob

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Thanks Rob. 

 

I too lost the will to sleep. Likely to be a long day............

 

Rob

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10 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Some paintwork to tidy up, drainpipes and telegraph connection to add before a bit of weathering. It looks a bit too clean at the moment.

I could have bought a ready made version of something very similar, but I know that I would have ended up adding all sort of things to that too.

 

IMG_20211031_202340.jpg.26503a18f75aee36e40ffe7156f27434.jpg

 

I started off with this kit:

 

ss48.jpg.e4b02f9da68099076218c8731dad8d4d.jpg

 

Photo Wills' kits.

 

 

 

 

That's a really nice end result Rob. Shows the benefit of putting your own spin on things, I'd never have guessed it was the kit had you not highlighted it.

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Thanks all for your complimentary comments. I set out to create a suitably sized signal box which has plenty of recognisable Saxby & Farmer heritage. I enjoy modifying the sort of kits and items that have been around on the model railway scene for years which tend to get overlooked. 

I suppose it's like taking a Hornby locomotive and superdetailing it, modifying and weathering it. You know that you have a good basis to start on. I'm going to have to learn how to do that before long.

 

The only parts that haven't had surgery are the stairs, windows and doors. It's going to have some lighting because I went mad on the interior. But at least I can now get it in place to work on the point rodding.

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On 11/10/2021 at 17:43, Tortuga said:

Just jumping back to the point rodding; I can’t remember if you’d sorted a signal box diagram. I’ve already looked into the signalling and interlocking for my own layout and one thing that came up was that the order of the levers directly relates to the order that the rods exit the box.

 

Forgive me if I’m teaching anyone to suck eggs, but it’s one of those things that’s so obvious to those with the knowledge, but something that could easily catch a novice (like me) out - in a similar way to how hand thrown point levers and facing point locks work

 

Sorry, late to the party...

 

I think another 'obvious' (?) element in point rodding that doesn't get mentioned is the direction the rodding moves when exiting the box when a lever is pulled.

 

I've never worked out if this is:

A. always the same with for example, a pulled lever resulting in a pushed rod

B. different within a frame to suit circumstances

C. alway the same for a particular frame manufacturer but with different manufacturers having different approaches

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1 hour ago, 2ManySpams said:

 

Sorry, late to the party...

 

I think another 'obvious' (?) element in point rodding that doesn't get mentioned is the direction the rodding moves when exiting the box when a lever is pulled.

 

I've never worked out if this is:

A. always the same with for example, a pulled lever resulting in a pushed rod

B. different within a frame to suit circumstances

C. alway the same for a particular frame manufacturer but with different manufacturers having different approaches

That's a good question - one for @5BarVT perhaps?

 

I've found a document with some good diagrams of point rodding: https://dickthesignals.co.uk/onewebmedia/C1-C355 training pamphlets.pdf (page 12), along with loads of other interesting S&T stuff...

 

edit - another doc on the same site has several diagrams of frames, all showing the cranks arranged to push the rod when the lever is reversed: https://dickthesignals.co.uk/onewebmedia/22 mechanical interlocking.pdf

Edited by Nick C
more info...
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Nothing being straightforward in this world, I've had to cut and shut the cranked part of the downpipes so that they don't miss the gutter by about a scale foot!

 

IMG_20211101_194558.jpg.9645748a8c09fe7df59a3eafa6b0728d.jpg

 

Edited by MrWolf
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4 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Nothing being straightforward in this world, I've had to cut and shut the cranked part of the downpipes so that they don't miss the gutter by about a scale foot!

 

IMG_20211101_194558.jpg.7d5594859d13809a6e2a5b1c932ba035.jpg


let’s be honest you’d only get bored if it was easy :lol:

 

Are those Ratio gutters?

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23 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Some paintwork to tidy up, drainpipes and telegraph connection to add before a bit of weathering. It looks a bit too clean at the moment.

I could have bought a ready made version of something very similar, but I know that I would have ended up adding all sort of things to that too.

 

IMG_20211031_202340.jpg.26503a18f75aee36e40ffe7156f27434.jpg

 

I started off with this kit:

 

ss48.jpg.e4b02f9da68099076218c8731dad8d4d.jpg

 

Photo Wills' kits.

 

 

 

 


Nice one centurion. like it, like it!

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