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Aston On Clun. A forgotten Great Western outpost.


MrWolf
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9 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

Maybe SWMBO could build her own layout as she’s certainly got the skills

 

She's got plenty of her own interests that are expensive to get started in.

She does enjoy practical things, when we first met she told me that she didn't need someone to look after her, more someone who can show her how to look after herself. The only thing that frustrates her is not being physically strong enough to do certain things, which I suppose is where I come in handy.

I did ask if it was an interest in model railways or an excuse to play with sharp objects?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Those kits never had a floor.

 

I found that when I bought several unmade Siphons. 

All of the built Keyser models I have acquired have had floors made from plastic card by the builders though.

At the very least it stops the sides from warping.

Really it's only one step on from kits that don't include wheels or couplings, I prefer to fit my own.

On this relic, you could see straight through the unglazed windows, through the floor and down to the track, which wasn't a good look for it.

The duckets are either plated over or missing. ISTR that duckets came with the kits.

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4 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

On this relic, you could see straight through the unglazed windows, through the floor and down to the track, which wasn't a good look for it.

Same with the B Sets. I fitted a floor and compartment partitions to mine.

 

5 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

ISTR that duckets came with the kits.

Yes they did.

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After a bit of careful measuring, the brake van has a floor and a couple of partitions which brace the sides and get rid of the warp.

I think that it is meant to represent a K15 (?) If anyone knows where I can find a little prototype information, I can probably upgrade it as it's a rather nice old model.

 

IMG_20210718_231333.jpg.410c701a3b9e14416f556621093480b5.jpg

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
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18 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Same with the B Sets. I fitted a floor and compartment partitions to mine.

 

I expect that you planned ahead and did all that before fitting the roof! ;)

 

Quote

 

Yes they did.

 

Whitemetal castings weren't they? 

I have several bits left over from Tri-ang clerestory conversions as per gwr.org I think that they might provide suitable duckets, or something that I can modify. 

Edited by MrWolf
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9 hours ago, MrWolf said:

After a bit of careful measuring, the brake van has a floor and a couple of partitions which brace the sides and get rid of the warp.

I think that it is meant to represent a K15 (?) If anyone knows where I can find a little prototype information, I can probably upgrade it as it's a rather nice old model.

 

IMG_20210718_231333_1.jpg.38288003785e76a32e1c29e0fdd133f7.jpg

 

If you pm your email address to me I should be able to forward some drawings.

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IMG_20210719_124911.jpg.df02536b34c2f29c732f3f02f169d84f.jpg

 

Just to confirm that the roof still fits the brake coach, here's a picture.

In front of it is Frankenstein wagon number 2, I had a couple of Kirk bodies and Cooper Craft chassis lying around. The Kirk kit floor is now the coach partitions / anti warp device.

As I have now run out of wheels and couplings I am putting these aside and have run out of avoidance behaviour options but to get on with the layout.

 

Sorry for the delay in getting a picture on here, but the 4g signal round here is what can only be described as a smoking pile of monkey ####.

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
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Base coat of earthy coloured paint going on. I better hurry up and get some static grass laid before I have more than the pesky Stukas to worry about. 1917 seems to have shown up.

 

IMG_20210719_153035.jpg.294b715c9d8a5f1130279f336769cfb5.jpg

Edited by MrWolf
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I think I used a mix of burnt umber, burnt sienna and black. But 95% of it has been covered with the top layers.

 

Edited by Gedward
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LPThanks, @Gedward, the first coat is just raw umber. I will need to make some test patches to try to get the local colours right, there's a definite pinkish tint evident.

 

the-clun-valley-from.jpg.7f9c90ea1b73057b1a6faabbf954c248.jpg

 

 

 

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Thanks, @Gedward, the first coat is just raw umber. I will need to make some test patches to try to get the local colours right, there's a definite pinkish tint evident.

 

River_Clun_-_geograph_org.uk_-_398204.jpg.65c74b2acb8136d9f08d292f1d24b22b.jpg

 

the-clun-valley-from.jpg.21c4ff4c0ddc3b4a1d7591c318084f8b.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
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Yes, I can see that pinkish tint is evident in those pics.

 

I know the Devonshire soil is very rich and rusty red. But I guess it varies over the county, so I'm just making sure there's hints of it everywhere.

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3 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

The greenery is going to present a much bigger challenge I think.

 

 

 

I thought that too. Never used static grass before this. But rather than just dive right in, I always try out a few things on some scrap pieces of card first. Make notes of what I did and what i used. Then if I get something pleasing, at least I know how I got there.

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47 minutes ago, Gedward said:

 

I thought that too. Never used static grass before this. But rather than just dive right in, I always try out a few things on some scrap pieces of card first. Make notes of what I did and what i used. Then if I get something pleasing, at least I know how I got there.

 

Same thing as we would with a painting. I need to get some 2mm grass flock, any recommendations?

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6 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

Same thing as we would with a painting. I need to get some 2mm grass flock, any recommendations?

 

 

I use WWS. Avoid anything labelled Summer. Far too bright in my opinion. My base layer is 2mm Autumn. 

 

 

Rob

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7 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Same thing as we would with a painting. I need to get some 2mm grass flock, any recommendations?

 

As I've mentioned earlier, this is the only part of the layout that really says, 'Dartmoor'. So it's absolutely key to the whole layout looking convincing or not.

 

Back when we could visit exhibitions, I bought a bunch of different colours in 2 ,4 and 6mm. From Woodland scenics, WWS and Green scene. I ended up using 2mm straw as a base layer. Then 2mm early spring for the main grassland. Thinking the general length would be kept rather short, due to the abundance of our 4 legged friends. I am now adding strategic long tufts in certain areas, I think this is key to making the overall scene look convincing.

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7 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Same thing as we would with a painting.

 

Exactly the same. 

 

I've been adding to my oil paint collection, for over 50 years. I still have tubes that are over 30 years old, so no problem with shelf life.

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Another vote for WWS static fibres here. I tend to use their 1mm patchy grass, and 2mm autumn. As @NHY 581 says, and as you will have seen, I prefer subdued colours, there's nothing worse than a layout with flourescent green grass.

 

I also use Woodland Scenics medium green flock (which isn't flock, it's static grass).

 

Blending all of the above gives me the colours I want, mostly.

 

Al.

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9 hours ago, MrWolf said:

 

Same thing as we would with a painting. I need to get some 2mm grass flock, any recommendations?

Another WWS user here. I’ve been using layers of ‘patchy’ and ‘muddy’ plus ‘Northern Europe’. 
I’m also using their basing glue rather than pva for the first fix, then layering spray for further clumps, patches, etc. 
Jay 

Edited by JustinDean
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I'm in the WWS camp too using the muted tones as others have suggested. For layering spray I use pound shop type hair spray. Makes the railway room stink but very effective.

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