philsandy Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 I am building an etched kit of a Stanier 3P and plan to fit this on a modified Hornby Stanier 4P chassis. The DCC socket is right at the front in the smokebox. On the Hornby body the underside of the smokebox is cut away to accommodate the DCC socket/decoder plug. But the Stanier 3P smokebox is smaller in diameter (approx. 3mm) and if I cut a slot in the underside wide enough (12mm ) to go over the socket it might be seen. Is there any reason why the DCC socket can not be unscrewed from its mounting, and have the whole thing, socket/ decoder plug, with a strip of insulation tape around it to protect it, and have it loose, and pushed into the smoke box barrel? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daltonparva Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 If you're going to cram it in the barrel I presume you are DC, not DCC. If so why not do away with it altogether? If not, do as you suggest, as long as it is well insulated. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 42 minutes ago, daltonparva said: If you're going to cram it in the barrel I presume you are DC, not DCC. If so why not do away with it altogether? If not, do as you suggest, as long as it is well insulated. No, it is DCC. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted November 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2020 4 minutes ago, philsandy said: No, it is DCC. I that case hard-wiring a decoder in a location of your choice will be the best and safest option. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 40 minutes ago, Oldddudders said: I that case hard-wiring a decoder in a location of your choice will be the best and safest option. So do away with the socket, and solder the red & black decoder wires to pick ups, and orange and grey to motor? How would you hardwire a sound decoder, ie. where would the green wire go? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daltonparva Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 52 minutes ago, philsandy said: So do away with the socket, and solder the red & black decoder wires to pick ups, and orange and grey to motor? How would you hardwire a sound decoder, ie. where would the green wire go? As you say above, only those 4 wires to make the loco move, and 2 others for the speaker (usually a pair of brown or purple, depends on the decoder). You can do away with all the others unless you want lights, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted November 21, 2020 Author Share Posted November 21, 2020 16 minutes ago, daltonparva said: As you say above, only those 4 wires to make the loco move, and 2 others for the speaker (usually a pair of brown or purple, depends on the decoder). You can do away with all the others unless you want lights, etc. I thought that the green wire was for sound, F1 ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted November 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2020 2 hours ago, philsandy said: No, it is DCC. The comments about insulation apply even more with DCC. Make sure every joint is covered - heat shrink is a good plan.....don't ask me how I know... Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daltonparva Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 42 minutes ago, philsandy said: I thought that the green wire was for sound, F1 ? Green is aux 1, f1 on an ordinary decoder. Sound decoders will have a matching coloured pair of wires for the speaker and will use f1 to switch the sound on, the green wire for auxiliaries will be allocated to a different f number. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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