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Removing masking liquid


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I've used masking liquid to mask areas of a model before spraying. Now I'm having great difficulty in getting it off, especially the areas sprayed over with enamel, any good tips for getting it off ?
I'd prefer not to just rub with my finger, even though it seems the best way of getting it off, as some primed masked areas are still to be painted.

 

I used an artists masking liquid that specifically says it's good for airbrush work; Schmincke Rubbelkrepp

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Thanks, I've just tried that. I think my main problem is not having put it on thickly enough, so it doesn't pull off as a thick skin, it just breaks up, especially where the over spray has thickened it. A stiff dry stencil brush is helping, but this is looking like a very long tedious job now :-(

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I've now spent hours trying to clean this masking product off and it's been a complete disaster. Small bits stuck in corners, marks on paintwork trying to get it off. IPA softens it a lot, but takes off the underlying paint/primer.
Just terrible. Not sure if I can rescue anything or will have strip everything off and start from scratch again. Days of lost work....never again :-(

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Thanks Colin, Yes I did try that, but it wasn't much help.

 

I think it's one of those products that works fine in a very limited set of circumstances. It was fine on absolutely flat polished metal surfaces, but on detail like rivets, in corners or possibly just the matt primer it just sticks like glue. 

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The recent O Gauge Guild virtual exhibition (free and open to anyone) included a 30 minute presentation on preparing models for painting. Even though it was mainly about brass locos in 7mm (not what I model) I found it very interesting and helpful. One of the tips on there was (I hope I’ve remembered correctly) to use Copydex for masking.  It’s probably still on the O Gauge Guild website.

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How long did you leave it in place the first time? It seems to come off quite easily if you use a fairly thick layer but remove it after about 24 hours. I used to use it a lot when weathering, especially to mask glazing, and found that after 24 hours it gets progressively more difficult to remove cleanly. Once it reaches that stage it needs cocktail sticks and a pair of tweezers to get right into the corners and fine detail.

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I have tried Humbrol Maskol twice (I model in N Gauge) and both times it has been a disaster.  After the first time, I even bought a new bottle in case that was the issue.  Maybe the formulation has changed?  I will not be using Maskol or recommending it again.

 

Kind regards

 

Paddy

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12 hours ago, Mick Bonwick said:

How long did you leave it in place the first time? It seems to come off quite easily if you use a fairly thick layer but remove it after about 24 hours.

I'm masking enamels that need two coats and a 24hrs to dry, it's going to be a minimum of two days at the very least. Thick coats of this masking liquid take at least 6 hours to start getting solid enough to take off too.
It's a "just say no" product for me now.

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19 hours ago, Paul_in_Ricky said:

No, the bottle was only bought a month ago.

 

It may have been sitting on the shelf for years....

This is something I would order at a large online shop, because you can expect a larger throughput.

 

Michael

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Some time ago I used Humbrol Maskol without any problems - it peeled off perpex windows quite happily and without much mess or residue.  It was an old bottle that smelled strongly of ammonia and I think I thinned it a bit with water before using it.  I would also have peeled it off well within the 3-day limit suggested by Humbrol having sealed in little strips of paper to help with the peeling process.

 

DT

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No problems with maskol, used it a lot to hide windows when spraying varnish.

 

applied using a lump at end of a cocktail stick, then spread out to get in corners.

 

comes off with tweezers, only tricky but being round windscreen wipers .

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It was my demo on the 0 Gauge virtual exhibition re preparing models for painting.

 

Forget Maskol and similar products. Go to your local hardware shop and get Copydex in a small tube, it will last 3 weeks on the model before degrading, it  creates good boundaries and is not affected by the thinners in enamel, acrylic or cellulose paints. Apply with a cocktail stick or worn out brush.

 

Ian R

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25 minutes ago, Ian Rathbone said:

It was my demo on the 0 Gauge virtual exhibition re preparing models for painting.

 

Forget Maskol and similar products. Go to your local hardware shop and get Copydex in a small tube, it will last 3 weeks on the model before degrading, it  creates good boundaries and is not affected by the thinners in enamel, acrylic or cellulose paints. Apply with a cocktail stick or worn out brush.

 

Ian R

I always find copydex isn’t cheap, and maskol is such a lovely purple colour 

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5 hours ago, rob D2 said:

I always find copydex isn’t cheap, and maskol is such a lovely purple colour 

 

And notwithstanding what Ian says, it works.  If you don't believe me, have a look at the reviews on Amazon - 4.6 star average rating out of 388 global reviews.

 

DT

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